Barina - Auto Electrian Says It Needs ECU Replacement

USER DC on 30/11/2023 - 19:30
Last edited 01/12/2023 - 10:17 by 1 other user

Hello people was just wondering if you could suggest me advice on an issue. Have an issue on my Barina XC 2005. Car has been very reliable for me so far, and I like this car, would like to keep it working, I have added a lot of extra value to it after buying too (with aftermarket stuff).

To begin with I got some intermittent spanner light (and like coolent temperature sensor code) - Nothing was wrong with car otherwise. Running fine. - (when I got the car around 2020 ish). In 2022 ish - OBD 2 failed, no communication from OBD port came (when connecting a OBD 2 sensor). And in 2022, also I got some really really weird codes coming out of it (these Opels/Vauxhalls have a kinda inbuilt code reader too using that it showed a bunch of random codes. Now latest, I got a fuel pump/relay/wiring issue, When I jump two wires 87 and 30 from fuse then car runs. But with an actual relay it stops after some time.

Took it to an auto electrician he says $1K for an ECU replacement for this fuel pump relay/wiring issue. (for a new ECU, won't budge on using a 2nd hand ECU), or like a $500 job on some safety workaround with new safety switch or something like that (that auto cuts power to fuel in case of like crash/accident etc.)

Has anyone had similar problems like this? If so do you also reckon changing ECU will fix the intermittent spanner light, and OBD 2 port problem too?

Been going through a lot problems in life lately, so would appreciate if you cannot help kindly don't discourage or say bad things in comments.

Any suggestions tips that you can give? Is $1K too much for a new ecu replacement?

Thanks a lot.

Automotive Car ECU Holden

Comments

  • websterp on 30/11/2023 - 20:18
    +5

    I would get an ECU from a Holden wrecker for 1/10 of that price and install it myself. Have no experience with your model but I recon it would be a 15 min job of screwing in the ECU and plugging in the wiring harness.

    • USER DC on 30/11/2023 - 20:24

      Yea that's what I'd want too but this stupid electrician wont work with used one and wants to charge me $150 for it if i dont take his job ( when he said diagnosis was not much may be free when asked beforehand )

      I have no experience in a technical job like ECU replacement, my guess however says that even after replacing a ecu it still need to be programmed etc ? Too

      Dont mind like 300-600 for a second hand job
      Plenty of ones online for like 150-200$ then Labour i guess.

      • Boioioioi on 30/11/2023 - 21:58
        -3

        Just don't pay him

  • brendanm on 30/11/2023 - 20:18
    +2

    Have you actually changed the relay? I've seen plenty fail once they get hot.

    • USER DC on 30/11/2023 - 20:21

      Tried it once with a wrecker relay (not sure if wrecker one was faulty too, but my guess is his was faulty)

      However my current relay seems to be okay when i supply voltage it does tick and got good ohm resistance too.

      • brendanm on 30/11/2023 - 20:26
        +1

        Relays are very cheap brand new. Clicking and resistance checks don't work for something that fails with heat. Resistance checks can also be fine, until a load is placed on the circuit.

        Has the relay switching signal from the ECU been monitored at the relay? This would tell you for certain whether it is the relay or not. I'm not sure whether the ECU switches the power or ground side of the relay on those things, but its also possible you have a bad power/ground on the trigger side of the relay. These are simple things you can check with a multimeter as it's failing, an even better diagnostic tool is an incandescent test light.

        • darshu on 30/11/2023 - 22:11

          Yes, I 100% agree with you. Unless we use a relay tester, bad relays can fool multimeter testing. It could be a wire short (to another wire/signal or to the ground).

  • JIMB0 on 30/11/2023 - 20:27

    The only way to properly fix it is to part ways. Don't waste any more time and money on it. Buy something more reliable

  • darshu on 30/11/2023 - 20:34

    After watching almost all the videos by DiagnoseDan on YouTube, I would say it could be any component.

    Have you contacted Injectronics? They say they can repair broken ECUs

    • USER DC on 30/11/2023 - 20:41

      Thank you mate

  • Typical16-bitEnjoyer on 30/11/2023 - 20:43

    It's 18 years old. How many kms?

    • USER DC on 30/11/2023 - 20:44

      I think around 158K kms. Have taken very good care of it since my ownership from like 4 years or so ago.

      • Typical16-bitEnjoyer on 30/11/2023 - 20:56
        +4

        In the politest way possible, send it off the farm where it has lots of room to run around and have fun.

  • Muzeeb on 30/11/2023 - 20:48

    Been going through a lot problems in life lately, so would appreciate if you cannot help kindly dont discourage or say bad things in comments.

    You can't blame others in a random public forum for your triggers.

    I hope things improve for you and you get support and love from family or friends.

    • USER DC on 30/11/2023 - 21:06

      thanks

  • Drakesy on 30/11/2023 - 20:54
    +3

    Personally I'd chuck it, It's verging on 18 years now.

    If you can afford to pay $700 a year in rego + $500 a year in insurance i'd say you can afford to drive a $5-$10k reliable Kia/Hyundai/Toyota. The labour alone would be eating a fair amount.

    Thankfully covid prices are largely a thing of the past, decent cars can be had for not a lot.

    • Sinnerator on 04/12/2023 - 08:44
      +1

      can you pls post these decent cars for not a lot? I am looking and the prices are still crazier than a ducks left nut
      unless you want a Cruze which accounts for 50% of all cheap cars

      • USER DC on 04/12/2023 - 15:22

        The only cheap one I could see was a MG auto 3 for like $19K new.
        I think he was referring to used car market tho (not new ones)

  • BAM51102 on 01/12/2023 - 01:38

    1) pay electrician for his diagnostic job
    2) get second hand ecu from ebay/wreckers for 100$
    3) replace ECU by yourself. if you can bridge 87/30 contacts, you can replace ECU. 2-4 bolts, and 1-2 plugs. 18years old car should not need ecu programming. (unless it has immo coded into it - check related opel/holden forums.)

    • USER DC on 01/12/2023 - 09:23

      $150 for diagnosis is too much when he initially said nothing for diagnosis (i assumed may be he'll charge a little bit like may be $50 or something like that but 150 is too much)

      I can source a wrecker one but the car has immobilizer chip thingie, so it still needs programming.

  • payless69 on 01/12/2023 - 08:02

    What does Mary Bara and Gerry's dog have in common?
    Greed to the max.
    Now start with the first o2 sensor and stay away from the 2 above

  • greencomet on 01/12/2023 - 09:20

    I'm honestly surprised you've managed to get 18 years out of the thing, either way it's had a good life, time to take it out to the back paddock before it becomes a huge money pit.

    • Minimum chips on 01/12/2023 - 10:30

      There's a reason you don't see a huge number of Barinas still on the road. It's the same reason you can't buy a new Holden. Of course YMMV, though if it's in a Barina you'll be towed for some of that mileage.

  • Protractor on 01/12/2023 - 10:33

    Check for obvious stuff first. Freshen up all the earths and battery contacts.Check & maybe replace fuses in the main circuits affecting the symptoms. Check where harnesses go through the firewall. Make sure there's no shorts with any of the mods you have done.
    Isolate some of the mods one at a time and see if it makes any difference. Try to recall when the 'major' dysfunctions began and whether it coincides with a particular event or mod.
    Maybe even a jump start short, welding?
    You might be chasing a unicorn, but if you want to keep it, you'll need to do it methodically.

    Was the OBD2 that wouldn't communicate the mechanics or yours?
    As mentioned try another fuel pump relay.Although "maybe" the pump might be overheating causing relay to fail.
    The whole range of symptoms might have a single culprit 'if' you're lucky.
    If the ECU does need replacing, maybe look around for a wreck on Gtree and try a second hand one first.
    Make sure battery is disconnected when doing anything that can risk shorts & sparks, whatever you decide to do, yourself

    • USER DC on 01/12/2023 - 11:16

      Was the OBD2 that wouldn't communicate the mechanics or yours?

      Mine

      Thanks for advice but in my case it looks like a ECU fault.
      Wreckers and stuff and crap in warrenty, I'm looking at injectronics and waiting see what they say about repairing, and least they give a 1 yr warranty (on both repair and remanufactured once s.

      This mechanic is also apparently giving me $1K for remanufactured one not a new one, he is very dodgy in his wording. Have made him very clear now to be honest and upfront.

  • mckaul on 01/12/2023 - 11:04
    +1

    My friend had the same car.
    Car would get to operating temperature, throw the spanner error, return random codes through the OBD2 and eventually just shut off and not start till it cooled down.
    You can almost guarantee every one them will eventually do this, as the ECU sits on the engine and it's exposed to heat and vibration.

    He went the route of a repairing the ECU for similar cost which fixed the issues. He went direct to the repairer and had to send the keys with the ECU to have it programmed.

    Wrecker ECU will still need programming by someone and there's no guarantee it will last.

    • USER DC on 01/12/2023 - 11:25

      Thanks for your suggestion mate.

      Car would get to operating temperature, throw the spanner error, return random codes through the OBD2 and eventually just shut off and not start till it cooled down.

      Hmm mine just threw code randomly at times (needed not to wait till getting to operating temperature, it also used to come like instantly after resetting fault codes through OBD2 too).

      If my memory serves me correctly it kept on throwing P1482 -cooling fan speed I think or something like that. (Fan worked 100% fine even works fine now too, both with AC on and during high heats too). Car never overheated under my ownership, and all kept on functioning till just now.

      He went the route of a repairing the ECU for similar cost which fixed the issues. He went direct to the repairer and had to send the keys with the ECU to have it programmed.

      Im seeing similar thing now with injectronics and see what their repair cost is, if remanufactured is not too much extra may just go with that one instead. But been told that might mean being without the car for a while, (i can luckily adjust some what ever so slightly for some time if price difference is big enough to justify the extra wait)

      Not looking to get wrecker's non warranty like or idm 1month warranty or other crap warranty of parts (as old part may also fail very soon).

      • Protractor on 01/12/2023 - 12:15

        Wonder if the fan itself is arcing out or the brushes creating 'rogue' voltage spikes, affecting the ECU signals?

        • USER DC on 01/12/2023 - 12:16

          I strongly doubt that because the radiator had been replaced once, and this problem had been on car before that, ever since I got the car.

          • Protractor on 01/12/2023 - 12:23

            @USER DC: Do all your engine and body earth connections again anyway.

            • USER DC on 01/12/2023 - 12:25

              @Protractor: Will ask him later I guess thanks, but not looking to spend another fortune on that wiring on top of already 1K

              • Protractor on 01/12/2023 - 12:28
                +1

                @USER DC: Nah DIY, bugger paying for a simple job like that.Where they are bolted down sand or wire brush back to bright metal, and add a new thick - lead from neg battery, to engine somewhere and a solid body panel as well.

                do this search and follow some of the leads
                (some ppl have even tried the old spray each wiring connection as well)

                earthing issue holden barina and reading>

                https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2366936

      • mckaul on 02/12/2023 - 12:12

        Just checked with my mate, he went through a place called PEC and sounds like it is done on an exchange basis.

  • Protractor on 01/12/2023 - 12:54

    Presume you have searched and read stuff like this>

    http://p1482.enginetroublecode.com/holden-barina

    more here> (google)
    P1482 issue 2005 holden barina

    • USER DC on 01/12/2023 - 13:01

      I am not too sure if it was P1482 or some other number, But 100% sure that OBD2 reading said like " coolant temperature fan speed " but again that time car was 100% functional.

      • Protractor on 01/12/2023 - 13:05
        +1

        Some of the stuff I have just read suggests HD contact cleaner on all wiring connections. One bloke even did the main ECU connectors and pins, apparently his low power /poor start /issue vanished as did the CEL. All this stuff is cheap elimination.
        Good project for the weekend.(inc the fan harness connectors. As others have said replace all suspect or relevant relays

  • LexD on 16/02/2024 - 12:11

    My daughter’s XC Barina was un driveable and throwing codes related to the accelerator sensor, after a few checks I found that 5 volt signal from the engine ecu was intermittent meaning repair or replace ecu.
    As these ecu’s are no longer available from dealers I decided to have it repaired by Injectronics in Melbourne at a cost of about $1300.00
    The car now drives perfectly.

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