Best Way to Slow down The Spread of Rust

Hey guys,

I’m currently travelling in my van around Australia

I’ll be home in a few months and will probably sell it when I get back.

However I’ve got a few rust spots forming that need tending to but I don’t have the right tools or treatment to fix it until I get home.

My question is if there’s anything I can do just to slow down the spreading of the rust so it doesn’t get too bad until I’m home to properly tend to it.

I know rust can get pretty bad very quickly so I want to find some sort of way to slow it down, if that’s possible?

Any recommendations on what to do would be awesome!
Cheers!

Comments

  • +2

    Simply put, no. A few months more rusting won't really matter.

    • So you’re saying it’s not going to spread much more in a few months time?

        • +4

          Rust does spread.

          The existing rust creates a weak area in the surface. It increases the surface area and creates numerous small crevices, allowing water to seep in. As a result, the evaporation process slows down significantly, providing more time for the metal to undergo a reaction, creating more rust.

            • +3

              @AngoraFish: Not necessarily true.
              Rust forms web like trails under damaged surface coatings, and does not discriminate between exterior or interior surfaces.
              I spent more than 20 years fixing the best and worst in the automotive industry and I can assure you that unless properly removed and repaired, rust will spread.
              As a temp repair or control, an oily coating is the best.

              • @azonki: Just curious how do panel beaters fix rust and how much it usually costs?

                Also is recommended to respray aswell to prevent rust after it is ( rust) repaired?

                • +1

                  @ATTS: Good panel beaters cut the rusted section from the vehicle and replace it with new metal.
                  The underside is then coated with a protective finish.
                  The top side is then finished to match the contour, usually with body filler, followed by a high build primer and then repainted.
                  Primers and body fillers are porous by nature, are not weatherproof, and do not provide long term protection to the repaired section. It will rust again unless protected with a finish coat.
                  It is an expensive process, which is why rusty cars are sold as scrap.
                  But, a "bad panel beater" will use whatever they can to hide the rust so that the vehicle can be sold on FB Marketplace, ebay, side of the road, used car dealers and anywhere else a quick buck can be made.

                  • @azonki: Thanks for the informative post

                    Just wondering are old imports say 80 90s jdm cars high chance of rust?

                    I heard people calling them rust buckets?

                    Also is it possible to tell if there is concelead rust without stripping the car to check

                    Also how do panel beaters hide rust?

                    • @ATTS: "Just wondering are old imports say 80 90s jdm cars high chance of rust?"
                      yes if exposed to more salty atmosphere in it's life or dodgy repairs

                      "Also is it possible to tell if there is concelead rust without stripping the car to check"
                      Fridge magnet on all the usual spots, look around for red streaks in areas where the pillars and door hinges are, and in the bulkhead drain area pre-windscreen,inside boot under the rear shelf & hinges of boot, and around tail lights.

                      Also how do panel beaters hide rust?
                      with bog,primer and paint, just like amateurs

                    • @ATTS: Japan is a cold climate. Plenty of snow - plenty of salted roads. Combine that with 80s rustproofing techniques (ie not much) and it’s a recipe for problems unless you can inspect in person.

            • @AngoraFish: You're the only one using words like 'cancer' and 'contagious', which have nothing to do with rust.

              Rust does spread though, by the mechanisms I mentioned above.

        • Sorry, but that is simply not true.

          Aluminium oxide acts as a barrier protecting the metal underneath, but rust does not. Once rusting has started, it will continue until it's removed or something is done to prevent further rusting, as the rust itself contains sufficient chemically-available oxygen to perpetuate the rusting process.

          Rust is NOT formed by water, its actually an oxidation process (water can accelerate it, but it does not cause it).

          Spraying standard paint over rust won't stop it, the rust will simply continue to form/spread under the paint (as the rust carries enoigh oxygen to allow the process to continue). Leave a tiny bit of rust on unprotected panels and it will grow like cancer.

          Most modern cars don't rust beyond a small spot where the damage has occurred due to the use of galvanised panels - the steel is coated with zinc, and the zinc erodes rather than the steel. This is why modern cars dont have the rusting problems that older cars had.

          If you have an older car without galvanised panels, then you will need to deal with the rust to stop it spreading. If access is easy, sand it back to remove all traces of rust and then paint over the sanded area - this prevents oxygen in the air from interacting with the metal. If access is trickier, you may want to consider something like killrust (I've used Krylon Rust Protector in the past) - its paint that chemically reacts with rust, neutralising it by changing its chemical structure to prevent it spreading further.

          • @hudrob:

            Rust is NOT formed by water, its actually an oxidation process (water can accelerate it, but it does not cause it).

            Water helps iron react with oxygen though, which greatly accelerates rusting.

  • +2

    Where is the rust?… how big?…. throw us a bone mate.

    • Mostly surface rust spots on the roof, and around the front windscreen probably about a cm in diameter maybe less

      • If its just surface rust, buy some car wax and polish the spot, when it rains you might need to reapply.

        That way when you get home you wont have too much gunk to remove when it gets treated.

        Not perfect but will slow things down a bit.

      • +2

        Around windows you can be certain there's more you can't see under the seals.

        • THIS^
          Especially from rough as guts, wham bang, windscreen replacements.

          IMO a 'spot' 1cm across is more than a stone chip wound.
          Pictures would help.

      • -3

        Lots of really bad advice here.

        This is the best fix!

        Sand back the rust and paint with XTROLL
        Seals the area and stops water getting to the rust, hence stops the rust

        Not cheap but by far the best product on the market.
        Rust converters are rubbish. Dont work!

        https://costeffective.com.au/product/xtroll-rust-conqueror-s…

        • Xtroll is OK for rusted steel, but not for car body work (sheet) metal unless you are aiming for a patina finish.
          Getting the treated surface ready for automotive refinishing is not possible due to incompatibilities between products.
          Unless you have a tractor or farm implement, any attempt to make it look like it should is wasted. It will look like crap.

  • +3

    WD40

  • +1

    Pictures or it didn't happen.

    Don't forget to include a banana for scale.

    • What size banana?

    • For rust spots…..What about a 10c coin?

  • Visit Super Cheap Auto and ask them for advice.

    • -1

      yes, visit thier web site.
      because they are not everywhere

    • You’d be better off looking on YouTube. There’s a good chance a person who is working at supercheap doesn’t have trade skills and might direct you to a product little better doing nothing.

      • The paint guys are helpful and know about rust.

  • Surface rust - cover it with something. Wax or paint. Maybe put some rust converter on it first.

    Rust that’s eaten through the panel - more difficult, but similar principle. Prevent water sitting there, cover it.

    Fish oil may help.

  • +2

    Fish oil works well at keeping moisture away

  • +1

    Heavy duty lanlion will seal it up and keep it the moisture.

    • Like sheep's wool?

      • +1

        No Jimbo said lanlion, just a blue cable from your router straight into a lions a*#

    • +1
      • lanolin.
  • +5

    Just use a barrier, rust is just oxidation = take oxygen contact away = no rust ;)

    As above, fish oil, engine oil, vasoline, grease, wax, paint, etc all act as a barrier :P

  • +2

    Just get some Zinc rich paint. Spray some on. Don't worry about appearance. Anything else such as WD40 or anything with silicone or wax, will make painting properly later a nightmare.

    • -2

      Correct

      Lots of BAD advice here

      • +2

        They want a Temporary barrier until they get home. When they will probably take your advice then.

        Them

        I don’t have the right tools or treatment to fix it until I get home

        You

        Sand back the rust and paint with XTROLL
        Seals the area and stops water getting to the rust, hence stops the rust

        • -2

          All you need is sand paper and a small paint brush.

          These are not "Tools" and generally available almost anywhere.
          The temporary fixes proposed create bigger problems later as others have pointed out!

          So thank you for your support on this one

  • Go to a paint store talk to someone. Many different rust preventers out there apply one of them then put a paint on top(similar to your vehicle colour). Several different brands available. Some a 3 step process. Many different options out there and the approach may vary due to the severity.

  • I hit my mum's car 10 or so years ago. I used touch up paint. The rust is kinda sorta beginning to show now.

  • I use a product called xtrol as an interim to a full fix (or on a new metal to prevent susceptible spots) It takes forever to dry and is super super super thin so coats down really deep. (I’ve had it penetrate entirely through cracks in cast iron). It can be applied over rust to seal out oxygen and moisture. I believe it’s uv stabilised too. That will buy you time.

    Around the windscreen the only solution is windscreen out, brush and rust convert what’s left if it’s not much, if it’s heaps it’s a cut out and weld in new metal job.

    I’ve just started using crc evaporust which is incredible, but requires submersion or at least a soaked rag regularly replenished. This option would be best done at home because will be time consuming.

    Xtrol will buy you time, but will also make your prep for a proper fix much longer. But will also last much longer than fish oils et al.

    In the end, a temporary buying time solution is essentially applying a “thin” hydrophobic layer. An excellent DIY penetrant is a 50-50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone, shaken up and applied- the evaporation of the acetone draws in the atf deep into crevices. But again, a lot of clean up and prep time to do a proper fix afterwards.

  • Important question, what car is this rust breaking out on? (Make model year)

    • +1

      OP said travelling in a van so it's probably an old Hiace or Mits Express with over 500ks on the clock.

      • +1

        My thoughts,too. Which leads me to believe the rust breakout ahead doesn't warrant wasting money on the tip of the iceberg. If it's coming from within, it will keep coming

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