Suggestions for a Light Bike < $1k for Urban Commuting 5kms/Way

Hi all, I decided that at the age of 33 that I really needed to learn to ride a bike.

To be fair, my parents were concerned about me injuring myself as a kid, so naturally refused to even consider buying me a bike.

Fast forward 25 years, I've self taught and am biking around the area, with the intention to ride into work approx 5km away. I want to upgrade a bike that is lighter than the piece of ssss I own now. I'm riding a Kmart mountain bike that is horribly heavy at 18kgs.

Any suggestions on particular bikes or features that are non negotiable? My search across 99 Bikes and Marketplace keep pointing to Hybrid Merida bikes, but any other suggestions would be much appreciated!

Comments

  • -2

    Bike Light < $1k

    🚲

  • -2

    Wrong forum, try here….

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/forum/1341

  • You know all those cars are trying to kill you on the roads? Do you have a way to avoid them on your trip to work?

    • +1

      Yeah there’s a bike lane for the most part into Sydney cbd so should be fine for some of the ride haha

  • +3

    You'll get a Giant Cross City 3 disc for $600

    Specialised & Trek have similar for not much more

    • Ok great thanks for that suggestion

  • +2

    Giant Cross City its designed for specifically this purpose. Its not super light but its tough and comfortable. An older (2022/23) model City 1 can be found in your price range and its basically the same as the current model; although the City 2 is totally fine as well - for a 5km ride the differences are hardly going to matter. The Giant Roam is also a good choice, although the main difference is that it has front suspension - you dont need that commuting on hard surfaces but it helps if you use the bike offroad or if the surface is in poor condition.

    or any similar bike from a 'named' brand - Merida, Trek etc

    That said, if you want a more upright/relaxed seating position then these may not suit

    To me, apart from finding a bike that is comfortable/fits, hydraulic disc brakes are a feature you never go back from. Hence not putting the city cross 3 on my list; however it still has mechanical disc brakes and its a perfectly good choice if you want to save a little bit more

    Otherwise only safety gear is a non negotiable feature. Good lights, flashing lights, good helmet, some reflective tape and/or tyres. If it rains a lot in your area then a fender is good.

    • Very detailed and a lot to consider. Yeah it seems that the giant cross city was an option however I was concerned about the weight. Any ideas on how heavy it is? They don’t seem to officially advertise weights, I would’ve thought a stock bike would be measurable, but some comments say around 10kg? Seems much lighter than what I’ve got which is a step in the right direction

      • Yes, you'll find that most brands won't tell you the weight of their bike.

        • Mainly dont list weights because it varies with frame size, but also because its not really critical to a quality bike.

          Good brands know that they dont need to sell by weight.

      • +1

        Dont get too worked up over weight; you can if you are a pro racer or riding 150km at day, but for 5km it doesnt make much difference and, to the extent it does, its just a slightly better workout. The cross city is around 10kg; you can make it more efficient by substituting slightly narrower tyres eg the stock tyres are 700 x 38, you can put on a 700 x 32 (or even x 28). But a kg here or there isnt a big thing - keep in mind you are adding 7-10X the bikes weight to what needs to be moved.

        Just moving on from the kmart bike and its gearing and frame etc will make a big difference even if the weight isnt changed very much.

        If you really wanted light then as suggested below get a carbon fibre bike 2nd hand. It needs to be treated a lot more carefully but will be lighter. Otherwise most aluminium bikes will be around 10kg give or take.

        Once you have decided on the bike you want (or a couple of acceptable options) and you know the size you need, do have a look 2nd hand and you might snag one of them for a good price. Just dont be one of those people who gets a bike shop to measure them up and provide sizing but then just takes that to buy cheaper elsewhere

        • Great advice!

  • -1

    I found that second hand goes pretty well. Around $500 it should be pretty easy to get something good, you'd be looking at bikes that are $3-5k new. Get something with a 105 or ultegra group set and if you're worried, take it to a mechanic to get a tune up and you should come out way ahead.I got a fully carbon fibre kestrel + a bunch of spare parts for $350 but I would suggest aluminium, there's a lot less that can go wrong on an aluminium framed bike.

    If the road is decent quality (i.e. it's a sealed road) then a road bike is what you want. Suspension is extra weight and extra bits that can go wrong.

  • +2

    Sounds like you want a flat bar road bike or commuter bike. Your budget is healthy for this style bike. Id normally recommend buying second hand, but only if youre handy with tools and know what size suits you.

    Tips:

    Its not just about the weight, but a quality bike will have better bearings, tyres and build quality making it easier to ride - they are lighter than a kmart bike, but dropping a couple of kg off you is a lot cheaper past a certain point of bike weight.

    Go to a few bike shops, anaconda doesnt count.
    Make sure you get fitted to the bike. Having the wrong size wont help you wanting ro ride it more.
    No need for suspension. It just adds weight and more maintenance.

    Mudguards are well worth it if commuting. Dont need to get the straight away, but make sure your bike can take them.

    Ive commuted on all sorts of bikes and the best has been a flat bar road bike now fitted with 28mm slick tyres. It previously has 13mm tyres and the extra tyre volume has really made it more comfortable to ride without needing suspension. A giant Cross city is a good example, other brands will have similar .

    • Excellent thanks, I think my issue is most bikes kindve move between medium or large at my height, 178cm, which seems to be on the cusp. Will need to hear what the bike shops recommend, knowing I’ll never be taller :)

      • Im only a smidge taller and usually go for a large. Ive had a couple of mediums and they were a tad small. I can also ride XL on road, but find XL too big when riding off road.

        For road riding i find the larger frame better, but this also depends on ylur leg to torso proportions.

  • Any suggestions on particular bikes or features that are non negotiable?

    Disc brakes. The better stopping power is important when riding in urban areas, and also much better when riding in wet conditions.

    I would say pannier rack mounting is useful. I ride with a backpack but sometimes wish everything was on the bike rather than my body.

    If you are picking between two bikes, the drivetrain is probably the most important differentiator. You will find that most of the value of the bike will be the drivetrain, followed by the bike frame.

    Speaking of bike frames, that's probably where you can save the most weight but you will need to pay for it.

    Merida and Giant are probably the best value (as others have already suggested). You can also explore second-hand if you're up for it.

    • Plus one for disc brakes. Make sure they are hydraulic discs. Cable discs are tylically not as good as decent rim brakes.

  • +2

    Commuted on an old base model (then newer mid model) Giant Roam 5k each way roads into work for years before changing jobs.

    Giant Roam 29er is easy riding with decent schwalbe marathon tyres, possibly a bit over that weight but used they are cheap, generally have good components and ride nicely, I keep suspension locked out but if you had poorer roads or the odd bit of dirt path with lumps then unlocked. Buy used from FB marketplace or Gumtree for $500 you'll get a lot more bike for your money and something like a giant over a BSO will be better as the person who bought it originally knew to buy better quality. Good luck and have fun!

  • -1

    5k is peanuts. stick with your existing mountain bike or wait until you find something better thrown out on the kerbside

    • I think my fitness levels are either shot, or that Kmart POS I use is like shovelling shit uphill

    • +1

      The difference between a kmart bike and a bike shop brand is night and day. While i dont mind hopping on a kmart bike for a short while, its not the right tool for commuting, especially if youve got some more funds for an upgrade.

  • +1

    There's some really good suggestions here!

    I've been riding a cheapo Reid bike for a good 10 years before buying a Merida Speeder 20 new for under $500. Flat bars are definitely much easier to ride as Euphemistic suggested. I also agree with Seraphim2017, I've chucked Schwalbe Marathon tyres on my bike and it's made the ride much smoother (also peace of mind that your tires won't get destroyed by a single nail). I also added a pannier rack to mine so I wouldn't need to carry stuff on my back.

    My bike started at 10.6kg and after kitting it out, it's probably closer to 13-14kg. It still feels much lighter than a Kmart bike. I can carry my bike on my shoulder up and down stairs without issues. I also commute roughly 5-8km one way most weekdays and it feels like I'm riding on clouds.

    If I were you, getting a flat bar hybrid bike would be a good start. I didn't get the Merida Speeder 100 since it didn't have the holes to mount a pannier rack. It would help to get a bike that's customisable in case you want to add bits and pieces to it like a bottle holder or a pannier rack.

  • +1

    5km distance is more like a run than a ride.
    That aside what is the max grade you have to climb on your commute?
    If you don't have anything above 5% then a few kilos of extra weight over 5km would not matter, if you are half fit.
    If you do have some climbs then a lighter alloy bike, compact crank and 32T cassette will make for a more relaxed ride to work.
    If its flat and your doing under say 25km/h then dual pivot rim brakes would be acceptable, although discs shine in the rain or braking downhill.
    Since its your commute, and if you don't have a lot of experience working on bikes, purchasing new (or 2nd hand from a LBS) might save you some maintenance niggles.
    More expensive group-sets will have snappier changes, but with REGULAR MAINTENANCE even the mid tier group-sets will last thousands of km.
    Even if cars are not a concern, you will need to be defensive around some ebike riders.
    A frame with mounting holes for a rear pannier will help keep your options open.
    Good quality wheels and tires are a big part of upgrading the ride.
    Keep a decent tread on the tyres, don't stretch them out, as its no fun having the rear lock up and try to overtake the front on a wet track.
    Your LBS will have a lot of good advice, have a chat
    I am going to get flamed for saying this, but Decathlon have a couple of half decent bikes for commuting as well..
    Apologies if I have repeated earlier comments.

  • Thanks everyone for all the suggestions, to be honest I didn’t realise buying a bike was so complex, I definitely underestimated it.

    • +2

      ha, you have barely started. No one has sought to analyse the differences between group sets, derailleur, crank lengths, pedals, frame geometry, gearing….

      Just go to a good bike shop, try a few different hybrid bikes and find the one that seems most comfortable, check it has whatever you are after eg disc brakes or pannier options and buy it. Oh, also get a good lock. If you want another rabbit hole to dive into. The best ones are very expensive ($500 type expensive) but a good D Lock around $100 - $150 should be fine. Admittedly most locks can be got through with an angle grinder in not much time, so its probably something you want to risk assess - if there is a high risk, then paying a few $100 might be worthwhile for a $1000 bike.

      • +1

        Good point about locking up. If your commute means leaving the bike unattended somewhere piblic id be more inclined to get a chealer second hand bike. An older bike is less of a temptation to thieves and wont be as much of an invesment to lose either.

        If you can work out your size, getting a used bike for $200ish and spending some time or a few $ getting it serviced might be a better option. You can get very good, brand name hardly used bikes for $200 that will need very little work. Ive bought plenty and used for commuting until i find something better or get bored of it and sell for same, if not more, than i bought for.

        Ive been fortunate that security isnt an issue so ha ent ever used more than a $10 lock to stop pranskters at work from hiding my bike.

  • On bike locks, I did a deep into them a few weeks ago - angle grinder tests and all that. My conclusion was that Onguard U-Locks are probably the best highly ranked, best value proposition. You can get them at Amazon.

    This shows their U-locks (they call them D-locks) that have a diamond rating from Sold Secure.

    https://www.soldsecure.com/approved-product-search?standard_…

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