JB Weld Original Cold Weld Formula Steel Reinforced Epoxy Twin Tube 56g $13.73 + Delivery ($0 with Prime/ $59 Spend) @ Amazon AU

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JB Weld Original Cold Weld Formula Steel Rainforced Epoxy Twin Tube, 56 g. If you don’t have this in your fridge, you don’t like fixing broken things!!

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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Comments

  • Does Bunnings price match amazon?

    • -1

      relevance? pretty sure bunnings doesn’t sell this item

      • where you been?

  • +1

    This is the Titan's bonding agent, right?

  • +3

    the fridge?

    • +4

      To extend the shelf life of epoxy adhesives.

      • Can we put it in the freezer to further extend

      • +7

        I don't think this is correct advice. For CA glue (cyanoacrylate, aka super glue), yes store it in the fridge. But AFAIK two part epoxies do not need to be kept in the fridge, it can actually harm them and make them harder to work with when you need them.

        Just checked West Systems & JB Weld website and they both suggest dark room temperature, sealed containers and avoid extreme temps.

        • +5

          yeah I've got these from Masters days, just stored in garage in a plastic container.

          • +1

            @M00Cow: Have a feeling that's where mine came from. It was the best place to get some of the American brands that weren't available in Bunnings at the time. I miss Masters.

  • +1

    They won’t ship to me sadly, another reason why dragonfly delivery sucks

  • This stuff is remarkable.

  • -1

    Order first, then research usage.

    Is this like their Plastic Weld but stronger? Or best to get Plastic Weld for plastic?

    • Okay this will work on rigid plastic but not on flexible surface, so PVC should be fine.

      • If you're gluing PVC then use PVC cement - https://www.loctite-consumer.com.au/ideas/repair-diy-project…

        • The Loctite one doesn't seem like pressure rated.

          Noticed a crack on a PVC end cap, it's not a standard fitting, so special order and quite deal for what it is ($150 for pack of 3).

          It's not leaking, but would like to re-enforce it by filling the crack in advance.

          • @browser: I recommend you use some reinforcing with the epoxy. I've done pseudo-fibreglass repairs before, using epoxy as the resin, and it works very well. But instead of using fibreglass ribbon or mat, I recommend using a fibreglass replacement like dynel cloth or a similar material. Much easier to handle and cut.

            Put the reinforcing on the side of the crack where the pressure is, so the pressure will try to push the reinforcing into the crack.

            Dynel cloth isn't made anymore, but some boat stores still have it. There are other replacement fabrics as well.

            Note to anyone wanting to try this: if you try to use "ordinary" 5-minute epoxy, it cures far too quickly. You really need a slow-curing epoxy.

  • Anyone got any recommendations for a good plastic (PETG glue). Super glue aint cutting it.

    • +2

      Loctite 20g That what i use on petg. Available from Bunnings.

      • Mind sharing a link (there's a few)

    • You can buy dedicated PETG glue like this https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pet

    • +4

      PETG has a fairly low surface energy (LSE), so ideally you'd use a glue designed for LSE plastics. Industrial prep could include a plasma treatment or primer to raise the surface energy but you can also flame treat the surfaces to be bonded. Super glue isn't suitable but in a pinch best bet is to focus on roughing up both surfaces to be bonded with 100-200 grit abrasive paper.

      PVC cement creates a solvent weld, works well depending on the composition but tends to be a bit messy, toxic and potentially too aggressive for smaller parts. Similar cements designed for PETG will include more appropriate solvents and concentrations, but again usually pretty toxic. In some cases (eg thin fillet or butt welds) the best option might be to stick PETG filament into a high speed rotary tool and friction weld the parts together.

      In general I'd recommend trying a two-part MMA glue. Not terribly toxic, forgiving of user error and minimal surface prep required. Unfortunately in Australia they aren't readily available or cheap. I read that the PU-based glue Bostik P580 supergrip has scored highly for PETG, it's also a high volume structural glue aimed at building construction so good $/g ratio.

      If it isn't wheat paste best to assume it's actively trying to give you cancer. This goes double for solvents and cements, for these good ventilation is a must and ideally an appropriate respirator.

  • I bought the JB plastiweld and found it useless on thick plastic in a freezer (cracked front panel on a draw)

    • +1

      That's going to be a challenge for any glue - subzero temps will just make the glue extremely hard and brittle.

  • I've got a tiny perforation in our laundry sink. It only leaks when the sink is full/being used to soak something.

    Would this help cover that/stop the leak in that situation? Stainless steel but definitely like 30+ years old. We rent but there's been enough issues here that I ceebs lodging more than I have to. XD

    • +1
    • +2

      Yes - use a pin to force some through the hole, so you can make a small plug on both sides of the hole, connected through the centre.

      • Oh interesting. Thing is I can't find the top hole.. Like the tub itself top side seems fine.. But I figure it's just super tiny haha.

  • do these dry out or evaporate once opened and stored in the tube? like my cheapie set

    • No. I have had a set of these tubes for years and they have not dried out. The black tube is maybe a bit thicker than original, but it still mixes up fine. The white tube is fine on the inside, but perhaps a bit gummy around the threads.

      I find the tubes to be better than the plastic plunger style where cross contamination inevitably occurs.

  • What can I get for broken / bent wooden shelf / it’s like chip board

    Manufacture sent me a buffet thats shelf broke during transit and they are sending me a new one with no need to return the original

    • +3

      PVA glue, and you'll need some clamps to make a jig to hold it perfectly in place while it dries - the joint needs to be compressed.
      Use plastic sheeting in between to stop your jig gluing to the repair.

      • Thanks mate

  • -1

    Would this be suitable to fill a small separation on the rubber sole of a boot?

    • I use contact cement for shoes. Reject shop stuff is OK.

    • +1

      I think you want something more flexible than this epoxy. I use B7000 because it's multipurpose and dirt cheap (like my shoes), paid about $1.5 for 50ml tube on AliExpress. Has a blunt syringe nozzle, with a pin in the screw cap to keep the nozzle free of clogs.

    • There's an actual shoe glue in Bunnings, I think it's Selleys branded, and it's great for flexible repairs like this.

  • How much is this normally

    • According to the camels Amazon's average price is around $21.
      High of $23 and a low of $13.78 (this).

      • Forgot to post the link

  • If you're near an automotivesuperstore can pick it up $14.15
    https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/jb-weld-8265-s?utm_term=…

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