Gulf Western 5W-30 Euro Energy Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5L $34.99 + Delivery ($0 C&C / in-store) @ Autobarn

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dkausa on 26/07/2023 - 21:21 autobarn.com.au (500 clicks)
Last edited 27/07/2023 - 11:11 by 1 other user

A decent price for Fully-Synthetic 5W-30 oil.

Gulf Western product page: https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/product/euro-energy-5w-30/

Oil specifications:

API SP
ACEA C3/C2-08
ACEA C3/C2-10
MB 229.51
VW 502, 505, 501
BMW Long Life 04
Porsche, GM DX2
PSA Peugeot Citroën B712290

Description:

Euro Energy 5w-30 is a mid saps particulate filter safe full synthetic motor oil formulated for late model passenger motor vehicles running on diesel, petrol and LPG fuels. It is ideally suited to vehicles calling for the ACEA C3 specification such as VW, BMW and other European vehicles. Euro Energy meets API SP/SN Plus/SN, ACEA C2/C3 and is recommended where MB 229.31, 229.51, 229.52, 226.5, VW 502/505, BMW LL-04, Porsche A40, GM DX2 and Renault RN0700/RN0710 are called for.

Check here to see if this is recommended for your vehicle: https://www.gulfwestern.com.au/lube-desk/

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• 

  highon2str on 26/07/2023 - 21:44

  +2

  5% CR CB too!

• 

  Dim Sim on 26/07/2023 - 22:46

  +2

  Finally bmw LL04 oil

  • 

    fedaykin on 31/07/2023 - 02:04

    as a B48 owner, I'd stick with Penrite out of brand-loyalty, only from the fact that my Skyline survived multiple track days with Sin5 and Sin10/Racing10.
    Always change oil+filter within 5-10k km.

• 

  ConsumerAffairs on 27/07/2023 - 10:47

  C3 rated oil, good for your DPF diesels too

• 

  bboz on 27/07/2023 - 11:43

  My car requires ACEA C3 oil, so why is this one marked as 'not suitable' on the website.

  It is quite infuriating.

  • 

    MasterScythe on 27/07/2023 - 13:35

    -1

    Why? Clerical errors happen all the time.
    If it bothers you that much, submit a ticket so they know to correct it.

    • 

      bboz on 27/07/2023 - 13:55

      -1

      It doesn't bother me "that much" but it is frustrating. Clearly my comment bothers you more.

      In any case, how can you be sure it's a clerical error?

      • 

        MasterScythe on 27/07/2023 - 14:06

        +2

        Quite the opposite :) Your comment didn't cause me any bother, dont let that worry you.

        I build engines and love nerding out over oil formulation. I have an entire section of my bookcase dedicated to vehicle oil and additive research.
        Its my idea of fun, not a bother at all :)

        As for me being sure?
        Well, I'm simply trusting you.

        You said this oil meets your vehicles stated requirements.
        You also said the website marked it as not suitable.

        Either you made a mistake and read the requirements wrong, or they have a clerical error.
        International standards on API and ACEA registered brands such as Gulf Western are well regulated.

        I was just being polite in giving you the benefit of the doubt.

        • 

          bboz on 27/07/2023 - 14:13

          -3

          @MasterScythe: Sounds like your other idea of fun is proving you are right with a smothering of passive-aggressiveness.
          That's great and I'll leave you to it.

          • 

            MasterScythe on 27/07/2023 - 14:24

            +1

            @bboz: How so? What do I have to be right about? I've made no claims, only defended yours.

            Outside of suggesting you let the brand know they made a mistake, 100% of this discussion is defending your point, that it's frustrating that a website is interpreting its products classifications wrong.

            I've been nothing but literally as polite as I know how to write, even including emoticons to emphasise 'happy' tones, and you're now acting, I'm not sure honestly, upset that somebody trusted you?

            At least explain what you'd like handled differently! Should I accuse you of lying about your cars ratings? Don't like the idea of letting them know, for some reason?
            Or are you just lashing out?

        • 

          m0tyrider on 27/07/2023 - 14:48

          @MasterScythe: What motors do you build?

          • 

            MasterScythe on 27/07/2023 - 15:05

            +1

            @m0tyrider: Almost exclusively car, and almost exclusively 4cyl.
            It's all passion projects, family and friends, I'm not a shop.

            A decent handful of EJ's (Strokers are popular, EJ20's using the 25 crank). Haven't had the chance to work on EZ's yet.
            It would only be "3" if not for the fact that mates like to push high boost in EJ's and lift heads/spin bearings… even with ARP equipment in place.

            K series are my current love, working on a destroked K20 aiming for a rediculous redline (11ish?), lord knows if it'll perform how I hope, but it's fun (was inspired by some of the work the 'Lotus scene' is doing with K's, they destroke the 24's seemingly often).

            There's a simple DOHC Mazda B series on the stand right now which is being re-ringed for boost; the MightCarMods boys found the 'secret formula' for that engine years ago; TD04's respond wonderfully on them! Since I have done several subarus, they're "free" on the shelf as leftovers.

            And thanks to my father, a few things I'd personally never have thought about maintaining.
            I've had to learn how to do some small block Chev work to keep his pushrod monsters cranking out torque (they're known to wear cams and tappets in the early 70's models; it was a soft casting).
            Re-barreling VW engines (which is simply a bolt on job really) becaue the old man likes to build trikes.
            And probably the hardest work for a such an archaic engine (and creating the 'almost' in my 'almost exclusively'), one Harley EVO engine.

            The only ones I dare do 'without a manual' though, would be EJ20's and K20's, the rest are mostly one-offs with factory rebuild manuals at hand.

            It's really just the perfect hobby for a nerd, since doing it right is all research and memorising otherwise useless measurements, haha.

            • 

              m0tyrider on 27/07/2023 - 15:10

              +1

              @MasterScythe: Cool, You sound like me :P

              Have done a few EJ's - can you tell me some more about the mazda b motors? Assuming its for an MX5?

              You need to be very meticulous and precise to get good engine build results.

              I find it enjoyable too.

              • 

                MasterScythe on 27/07/2023 - 15:44

                +1

                @m0tyrider: The B series engines are shockingly OK out of the box; there's 2 to talk about.

                The first, yes, is from my partners 99 NB.
                It started DRINKING oil with no visible smoke (I hate that 'perfect balance' mixture where that can happen).
                So it was pulled simply to do valve stems, bearings, and rings and put back together again 'as is'.

                As usual, the lady demanded power, and so the project grew. A BPZ cam is on the way, and so are some Teiken pistons "to suit" the 01 motor; getting us a free 0.5CR bump. Rods, heads, etc, all the same between the years, so a 'drop in' free CR bump.
                Simple generic chromaloy rings while we're there, and a TD04 running the wastegated 7psi will be added after run-in.
                I refuse to build knife-edge performance things. While the MCM boys proved these engines are happy to daily at 12PSI, she just doesn't need it.

                The second, interestingly, is just a mates one I helped with.
                I don't 'stamp my name' on this mess, haha, it's silly.
                It's unopened, boosted, and a few good lessons were learned.
                It's a 2001 BJ Mazda 323. Prepare yourself for dodgyness.

                I first asked him 'Are we doing this RIGHT? Or are we doing this cheap' He said cheap.
                My idea was a simple eBay GT25XX, a FMU for fueling, on the stock ECU (plus a wideband).

                ECU expects "90Ron or better", so it would be THRILLED to drink 95 or 98; which will EASILY prevent detonation at low boost levels.
                A timing light shows it's not very advanced for NA, so that's fine too, and a 10:1 FMU would handle the fueling increase, and we'd have something small like 5psi and a build cost of less than a grand. All was simple.

                Then he comes home with a Haltech Elite. No discussion. WHY? I'm still not sure.

                He still didn't open the engine, but ended up with a GT2860RS@18PSI, and a full custom fuel system and wiring.
                I guess when the bug bites….

                Funny thing is, most of our parts were from the "cheap" planning phase, so it's all dodgy as hell (Still an Ebay turbo, drilled sump he JB welded instead of welding, ebay 'red and blue' fittings, all the horrors you imagine, lol).
                Made a couple of digits shy of 200KW at the wheels, and did so for about 2 years before cracking a piston (it'll be ring expansion for sure, crossing that 1bar/14.7psi on stock ring gap never goes well).

                He FINALLY admitted he didn't like the 4.5K boost hit, so now he's listening to me.
                Getting a GT2560R, running more sensible boost (especially in FWD) and going to have more reliability.
                The goof had some fun, but man, time for my way: less, but reliable power.

                One thing we DID learn about these engines though, no matter the chassis.
                The Dipstick Is Wrong! and shows full 1L before it actually is.
                It takes 2.7L to show full, and 3.7L is the manual reading (and more correct with some rough math based on sump size).
                I documented this finding last year here:
                https://forums.mightycarmods.com/forum/technical/tech-talk/8…

            • 

              brownsound on 27/07/2023 - 15:20

              @MasterScythe: Would changing from full to semi-synthetic motor oil (same grade 5w30) only require oil changes be made sooner? For example, i currently change every 10,000km on full synthetic, would i just have to change every 5,000km on semi-synth? What else is to consider if the semi-synth is exactly the same spec otherwise?

              • 

                MasterScythe on 27/07/2023 - 15:50

                +1

                @brownsound: Yes, but how much sooner is impossible to guess, you'd be better off actually getting a UOA done on some used oil of yours.
                "Full Synthetic" oil needs to be almost entirely Group3 (hydrocracked) oil, or better.
                "Semi" only needs to be 30%, and the rest can be Group2 (Refined Crude).

                If you change it before the Group2 oils start to degrade, no harm at all.
                If you miss an interval, thats where 'sludge' comes from.

                I don't think you'd need to HALVE it, I'd be getting a test done at 7500kms or such; but really, once you add in the shorter drain intervals, you usually end up worse off than buying whatever full synthetic is on special.

                Most of the other differences show themselves under stress, or heat.
                Assuming you're talking about a naturally aspirated, casual A-to-B style car, not towing, then there would be zero other differences.

      • 

        fedaykin on 31/07/2023 - 02:06

        Context: my beloved gen5 Liberty wagon did 240k km, I used only Penrite Racing 10 for 10k intervals, zero issues, engine went hard.
        Penrite FTW.

  • 

    Dogsrule on 05/08/2023 - 09:00

    +1

    Don't worry about those online parts checkers, they are often completely wrong. Believe what is written on the bottle - if it matches what is written in your manual you're good to go.

• 

  flogplecoL168 on 07/08/2023 - 21:49

  For a Mazda 3, 2008 Maxx Sport 2.0 liter petrol engine, would this be ok? -

  • 

    dkausa on 11/08/2023 - 00:17

    What oil specifications are stated in the manual?