New desktop PC recommendation for home

ljg00 on 26/08/2014 - 15:39

Hi all, I'm in the market for a new desktop pc and need your advice. I work on the computer all day but I am not very literate in parts and specs so I'm not sure what is a good deal and what's value for money and where to get it from. The new pc will be for home and used mainly for surfing the internet, general Microsoft office tasks, and sometimes streaming movies to my TV. It might also be used for the occasional photo editing. I don't mind spending a little bit more to get a decent configuration rather than regretting it later and ending up with a slow pc.
I have no idea about computer builds, if you could guys provide some recommendations so I know what to look out for and compile a list of specs which I could maybe request from the likes of msy.

Appreciate your help.

Computing Computer Desktop Computer

Comments

  • QW3RTY on 26/08/2014 - 15:49
    +9

    Of course you'd be best of (budget wise) building a computer from scratch with parts, but if you lack the tech know-how — buying a prebuilt could be the way to go.

    If you're in the Sydney area, I'd be happy to assemble parts from a retailer such as MSY and build it up for you (I've sent you a private message to this effect). If not, I'll have a poke around national pre-built sellers and resellers and see what might be the best fit for your intended use.

  • [Deactivated] on 26/08/2014 - 16:13
    +5

    Current generation Haswell ReFresh Pentium CPU + Solid State Drive (SSD) + 4GB DDR3 RAM would be plenty for your requirements. If you spend anymore than $500 on the box alone you are doing it wrong.

    • scrimshaw on 26/08/2014 - 16:31
      +1

      I would suggest an i3. While lower end Intel CPU's, particularly the new 'Anniversary Edition' Pentium can really haul ass on single thread apps, the Core i3 is worth getting when you're video editing and rendering.

      There's also the '6-core' FX6300, which allows you to use cheaper AMD motherboards and still allow you to overclock.

      • Baysew on 26/08/2014 - 18:10
        +14

        For surfing the internet and general Microsoft office tasks, I'm sure ethereal88 would suggest -
        i7,16Gb RAM, 780 t.GHz/ 2 x 1TB Samsung 840 Evo SSD.

        • shadowarrior on 26/08/2014 - 18:17
          +2

          Add some drives on RAID ….

        • ProjectZero on 27/08/2014 - 09:19
          +5

          You left out the extra 3x780 ti for the quad SLI

        • striker5950 on 27/08/2014 - 17:42
          +5

          @ProjectZero: also liquid cooling :P

        • ankor on 27/08/2014 - 21:50
          +4

          Let's not forget the 4k monitor..

        • ProjectZero on 28/08/2014 - 09:23
          +4

          @ankor: Just one 4K? What is this… amateur hour? you need minimum 3!!!! /sarcasm

      • [Deactivated] on 27/08/2014 - 08:50
        +2

        OP did not mention video editing or rendering in his/her requirements. And based off his/her usage patterns I highly doubt he/she would be looking at overclocking either.

        Haswell based Celeron/Pentium will be ample power.

        To put it into perspective, a Intel Pentium G3220 out performs an Intel Core2 Quad Q6600. CPU technology is really advancing!
        Source http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_list.php

      • [Deactivated] on 27/08/2014 - 18:50

        If you are doing video editing/rendering then i7 is the way to go, otherwise Pentium Anniversary Edition/i3/i5 would do the job fine if you don't mind waiting. I don't see the point in i3 anymore where the Pentium Haswell are almost as powerful.

    • conan2000 on 27/08/2014 - 08:13

      Agreed. Except the RAM, 4GB RAM may not be enough. My laptop always freaks about RAM usage from having too many Chrome tabs open! And photo editing it can become an issue as well depending on how complex the editing is, I had to upgrade from 6GB on my desktop recently to be able to do some fairly simple things like merging panoramas in photoshop.

      • [Deactivated] on 27/08/2014 - 08:52

        Change to a fixed sized pagefile (4GB+), this should stop windows having a conniption when you use all of the 4GB physicaly memory as it tries to resize the pagefile dramatically to keep up. Preferbly keep it on an SSD.

        • mrmarkau67 on 27/08/2014 - 14:29

          Yup. Paging is faster on SSD. That's why our 4 year old Macbook Air with 2GB of RAM still works fine - SSD.

        • conan2000 on 28/08/2014 - 20:01

          Doesn't work so well when I only have less than 2GB free hard drive space! (New laptop arriving soon to fix all issues)!

  • shadowarrior on 26/08/2014 - 16:13
    +1

    This list should be fine for what you are trying to do.

    http://pcpartpicker.com/user/shadowarrior/saved/ncyqqs

    Ignore the pricing and retailers since they are linked to the US, but the prices will still be pretty similar.
    Add a case, keyboard, mouse, monitor and OS on top of that.

    • Evil-Elmo on 26/08/2014 - 16:53
      +2

      Not bad, but seems a bit overspecced for the OPs needs.

      First, I don't think there is any need for a Z97 motherboard here.
      Secondly, the integrated graphics should be fine for the described usage.
      Thirdly, a higher end 500W PSU is a bit of an overkill for such a machine.

      I'd get an H97, ditch the GPU, and get a decent case+PSU combo. I'd also go a 128gb+ SSD for the OS. All depends on budget though.

      • [Deactivated] on 27/08/2014 - 08:53

        Agree with everything Evil-Elmo said, pretty much spot on.

        People building gaming rigs based on the 750ti - definitely overkill in this rig.

        • shadowarrior on 27/08/2014 - 11:13

          From my previous experience, everyone says I don't want to game, and then they come back in few months and say, oh but I want to run xyz game, my cousin/son wanted to buy this game but it isn't working properly.

          Might as well chuck in an entry level graphics card.

          Also, I'd use a dedicated graphics card even if it's entry level to use Lightroom/Photoshop etc than chew up my system memory to use onboard Intel HD chipset. He isn't getting a lavish 16 gig of ram to start with, why throttle the system by sharing the ram.

          If he hadn't mentioned anything about photo editing, sure, get that GPU out and use the Intel HD onboard.

          Also, for baby unicorn's sake, don't buy a case with psu combo. 90% of them are crap cheap inefficient PSUs without any ratings.

          Remember, your case and PSU should always last multiple builds. Invest on a decent PSU and case now, every other build or even if you are adding a new GPU you don't have to worry about purchasing another PSU.

        • Evil-Elmo on 27/08/2014 - 12:17

          @shadowarrior:
          If it were me, I'd wait until such a situation arose. You can always add a GPU later. At that stage better and cheaper options might be available. No point putting a GPU in for gaming if it'll never get used (especially since it's about a 1/3 of the entire cost of the build you proposed!).

          As for the photo editing, this was described as a 'might be used for' and 'occasional'. I don't think this limited usage alone warrants buying a GPU to save a bit of RAM.

          I agree that 90% of case+PSU combos have PSUs that aren't very good. That's why I said 'decent' (i.e. one of the 10% that are ok). :)

          Don't get me wrong, I don't think there is anything wrong with your suggestions (except maybe the Z97) it's just that I don't think the OP will get the benefit of the proposed extras. That money would be better spent on an SSD for the OS etc.

        • shadowarrior on 27/08/2014 - 12:44

          @Evil-Elmo:
          Agree yet, the charm of that G3258 Anniv Edition lies on it's ease of overclocking and the performance boost.

          Later on all the OP needs is an after market cooler and can easily bump that clock up to gain big chunks on performance. So yep, I will stick with the Z97 board and down the track spend ~$50 on an aftermarket cooler.

      • This Guy on 28/08/2014 - 00:47

        You are right, OP can save on PSU, but please recomend a replacement.

        • shadowarrior on 28/08/2014 - 09:59

          Please do not save on PSU……
          or a good case with ventilation.

        • This Guy on 28/08/2014 - 16:29

          @shadowarrior:

          It's an $80 500W PSU

          I found four or five $60 500W PSU's that look like they could be reliable (CCCG, silverstone, thermaltake, I can't be assed, look it up for your self :)

        • Evil-Elmo on 28/08/2014 - 17:09
          +1

          @This Guy:
          Also, there is no way that machine would use anywhere near 500W. I run a completely passive i3-4150 build (HTPC) off a 120W PSU without any problems. Not suggesting this for the OP, but there is certainly no need for such a hefty PSU for the OPs stated use.

          I don't know much about the Corsair PSUs, but the VS350 is $45 and the 450 is $55 at MSY. There are plenty of other good options too, like the Seasonic 350W 80+ Gold PSU for $69 at PCCG.

        • shadowarrior on 28/08/2014 - 19:43

          @This Guy:
          If it is not 80+ certified and is not listed in 80+ website on certified manufacturers, I can't be arsed to even try searching for it.

          I like my house, and my computer peripherals more than saving $20 on cheaping out on a PSU.

          And I think you failed to read my previous posts.

          You DONOT buy a PSU per build.

          You buy a good PSU which will last you multiple builds (along with a case).

        • shadowarrior on 28/08/2014 - 19:55

          @Evil-Elmo: That build I recommended needs around 310W. Sure you can go 350, then any upgrade will trigger a PSU purchase. Avoid adding that extra cost when you upgrade by getting the 500W.

        • This Guy on 29/08/2014 - 01:41

          @Evil-Elmo:

          100W
          I 100% agree, OP only needs a 100W system. It's just hard to find a decent, cheap power supply under 500W.

          Corsair VS350
          I've found no reviews for the VS350. Yes Corsair is a generally a good brand, but even brand name, budget, low power supply’s can be hit and miss. Why be a guinea pig.

          Corsair VS450
          People like the Corsair VS450. The VS450 doesn’t have the best caps, but cheap power supply’s use cheap caps.

          Efficiency
          It would take 187 days at 100% load to cover the $9 extra for the Seasonic Gold.
          Used 100W system, 500W 80+ Bronze and 25c/kWh.
          The power saved is about the same as switching from fluoro to LED lights.

          @shadowarrior:

          The Corsair CX500 is around $85 at most shops. Any major brand 500W PSU should be fine. There are plenty for $60.

          I've seen PSU's fail. They are in steel boxes for a reason. Yes you could burn a house down with one, but you would have to try very hard.

          I read your posts; I was replying to Evil-Elmo and wanted to see which PSU they would choose.

          I buy a new PSU every build because I increase the power draw (230W -> 450W -> 620W [GPU upgrade] -> 850W). I also repurpose old machines. I generally keep computers for 5-7 years.

          I agree that good PSU's last. I'm fussy with my cases. I still haven't found a case I am happy with. Good fans last too.

          Finally, your chosen system is a 200W system max (unless overclocked).

        • Evil-Elmo on 29/08/2014 - 09:47
          +1

          @shadowarrior:
          I don't want to get in an argument over it, but I am curious where your 310W comes from?

          The CPU is a 53W CPU.
          Mobo? I dunno, I think they're around 30W for the basic ones, but let's say 50W to give a nice buffer.
          RAM? Let's give that a generous 10W.
          The 750Ti (which, as you know, I think the OP can do without) is apparently 62W under load (Toms Hardware).

          We're up to 175W here (over 1/3 of which is for the GPU which may or may not get used).

          Now, I admit, the OP is going to want some HDDs and maybe an optical drive, but they're not going to use 135W… (more like 5W for an SSD and 10-15W for a HDD/OD - again generous estimates).

          On to the case thing - I can see where you're coming from here. However, times do change. I have generally been into good cases and years ago bought a nice Lian-Li which I still use. However, it's all based on noisy 80mm fans and I can't wait to replace it. The Enermax PSU I bought at the time (which was then were considered one of the better ones available) died, so since purchase it has been replaced with a higher end Seasonic. I'm into computers a fair bit (probably less than you though), so I, like you, would be inclined to get a good case and PSU keep them for upgrades, and indeed I have done this.

          However, the OP says "I am not very literate in parts and specs" and "I have no idea about computer builds" so I don't see the OP being the type to rebuild PCs using the same case and PSU etc. Not saying they can't or wouldn't, but just that it's unlikely enough that I wouldn't go spending significant amounts more on the off chance they would.

          Anyway, don't take any of this personally. I absolutely see where you're coming from… I just think you're perhaps imparting a bit too much of your computer desires into what the OP needs, when they've made it fairly clear it's predominantly going to be a MS Office box. Having thought about it some more (and seeing the recent NUC deal), I think a NUC would fit the OPs needs quite well.

        • shadowarrior on 29/08/2014 - 17:30

          @Evil-Elmo:
          Nah mate not arguing, this is just discussion :)

          So for my calculation I did overclock the CPU. (That G3258 begs to overclock, and you can OC it to around 4.5~4.8 easy on air aftermarket coolers.)

          I added a SSD and the power usage was calculated at peak with 90~95% load.

          Agreed, I usually recommend people to buy once which covers a wide area of use. Which is why I added that GPU and went for a Z series motherboard and a PSU to give some room for upgrade.

          For your case, grab some Noctua NFP14 FLX. I have those all around my Xaser VI (PCCG had that case for $95 on clearance, so scored that deal in 2009).
          The fans are quite, fits both 120 and 140mm slots in my case and have great build quality.

        • shadowarrior on 29/08/2014 - 17:36
          +2

          @This Guy:
          My upgrades are always staggered. For example, I only upgrade my CPU-MOBO-RAM in one phase, and the GPU on the other.

          Had 6990 in 2012, and retired my AMD 965BE this year to replace it with an i7. Around 2015 end I will upgrade the GPU again, and cpu-mobo-ram upgrade will be done around 2018.

          I have a Seasonic X-750 which will last me as long as I don't do anything more than a crossfire.

  • ProjectZero on 26/08/2014 - 16:14

    Is there a particular budget you'd like to spend?

    From what you said you will be using it for, i can say that the PC will be from $500 onwards (not incl. monitor and mouse and kb).

    • ljg00 on 26/08/2014 - 19:51

      i'm looking around the $500-700. I already have the monitor, kb & mouse.

  • mrmarkau67 on 26/08/2014 - 16:48
    +2

    Choose a build from here (Budget PC sounds like the one you want):

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/wiki/custom_pc_build_suggestion…

    Ask a local PC reseller to build it for you and install Windows 8.1

    Key points: SSD or SSHD, 4GB of RAM, consider spending a little more and get a case you won't be embarrassed by.

    • ljg00 on 26/08/2014 - 20:02

      Thanks for the link…it's starting to make some sense.

  • YouLIKEyouLICK on 26/08/2014 - 17:32

    I really got sick of Windows XP and 7, got a MacMini i5 with 8GB ram, no more headaches and random errors so far, I'm not a Apple fanboy, I just gave it a try and I really like it, it's not the fastest. Hmmmm….I also have a MacBook Pro and iPad mini also… thanks to the Dicksmith and Kogan deals….. But one thing I refuse to buy is the iPhone and other over priced items like the new MacPro.

    • Lysander on 26/08/2014 - 19:01
      +4

      All Apple products are overpriced, even when on sale. Also, given the fact you have three expensive Apple products the claim you are not a fanboy is hard to maintain in my humble opinion (don't get me wrong, if you have got the money by all means spend it!). You might as well buy the iPhone and a full size iPad to complete the set. :-)

    • jv on 26/08/2014 - 21:51
      +8

      got a MacMini
      I also have a MacBook Pro
      and iPad mini

      yet

      I'm not a Apple fanboy

      • shadowarrior on 27/08/2014 - 01:22
        +7

        LOL. I stopped reading after, 'i really got sick of windows 7' :P

        • [Deactivated] on 27/08/2014 - 08:56
          +5

          I'm just going to say it….

          Apple Fanboy.

        • mousie on 29/08/2014 - 15:46

          I stopped reading after his nick

  • ethereal88 on 27/08/2014 - 07:07
    -5

    i5 minimum with H97 and a 500GB EVO as a base.

    • jv on 27/08/2014 - 09:31
      +1

      and a 500GB EVO as a base.

      a desk might be cheaper as a base…

      • ethereal88 on 28/08/2014 - 07:36
        -1

        Its $268 which is nothing for a 500GB SSD.

  • bradsmrbetty on 27/08/2014 - 08:16
    +2

    OP you could buy a laptop and connect it to your monitor.
    You said your ok using a computer,something like Acronis to back and restore windows on a new ssd.
    Buy an SSD and follow the youtube videos step by step instructions. I see from your original post hardware is probably a bit scary, however a laptop is generally fairly straight forward if you're just changing a hard drive.

    Othwrwise a pc tower thar others have suggested is fine.

    • ESEMCE on 27/08/2014 - 14:05

      Why the neg?
      It's a valid point.

  • ProjectZero on 27/08/2014 - 09:23

    So i just wanted to ask you guys are genuine question. Why is everyone always suggesting an SSD for a low budget build?

    I personally have an SSD because i like the fast boot up, but my desktop is more towards the high end. For low end desktops, are SSD really necessary? I mean, you expect the low end ones to take a few minutes after getting into Windows before functioning without lag, but after the initial few minutes the PC runs as fast as if it is on SSD doesn't it?

    The reason I persoanlly wouldn't suggest SSD for low end PC is because for the $149 (250 GB SSD) you can get a 2TB+ HDD. 250GB really isn't enough storage IMHO.

    • jv on 27/08/2014 - 09:32
      +13

      Why is everyone always suggesting an SSD for a low budget build?

      Because the price has dropped quite a bit in the last year, and it's probably one of the best value components in terms of price/performance…

      • ProjectZero on 27/08/2014 - 09:44

        Because the price has dropped quite a bit in the last year

        I can agree to this but i use an SSD as boot for home and at work i have an HDD and TBH, the one at home doesn't seem to perform any better then the one at work.

        Granted the work computer occasionally lags here and there but that is because there isn't enough RAM for the programs i use.

        Perhaps there are other benefits I haven't discovered yet?

        • edgar28 on 27/08/2014 - 10:40

          get the hybrid seagate for daily non gaming use.

          or add on the ready cache from sandisk plus a big hdd. (some claim ready cache has issue, mine working fine, haven't see many people here complain, especially Ozbargainer clear out MSY stock when they have special)

        • mrmarkau67 on 27/08/2014 - 14:26

          If your PC runs out of RAM, it will page to disk. If the disk is an SSD, this will be faster.

        • ProjectZero on 27/08/2014 - 14:49

          @mrmarkau67:
          Honestly, this shouldn't even be a problem… but we're running win7 with 4GB RAM… so of course it will run out after a couple of spreadsheets lol… well at least with the spreadsheets i use >.<

          I don't think normal use will use up 8GB, so using an SSD as paging one plus but not always applicable.

        • mrmarkau67 on 28/08/2014 - 19:35

          @ProjectZero:

          Granted the work computer occasionally lags here and there but that is because there isn't enough RAM for the programs i use.

          Use Windows Task Manager Performance tab to check if you are running out of RAM. If you are, an SSD will help, because paging will be faster.

          My laptop has 3 drives - an msata SSD, a SATA SSD and a spinning drive. I prefer my page file to be on a different spindle to my programs and OS. My laptop never lags.

      • ddxsamx on 29/08/2014 - 14:09
        +1

        I can attest to this.
        I've had my SSD for nearly 5 years now (Intel X25M 80gb for $250 lol) but still the best value components. Still rocking my Q6600/GTX260 to this day :)

    • drewbie on 27/08/2014 - 09:54
      +5

      I recently upgraded my 3 yr old Macbook Pro from a HDD to an SSD (500 GB Samsung EVO) and I'm kicking myself for not doing it years ago. The difference is truly astounding! Spotify opens instantly. Restarting Chrome with 18 tabs opens in a few seconds. A full restart take <30 seconds (including the multiple logins because of FileVault). The first time I saw disk IO running at 100+ MB/sec blew my mind.

      Just do it. A 128 GB SSD can be had for well under $100 now. I got my SSD for $289 from the most recent sale at Shopping Express.

      • striker5950 on 27/08/2014 - 20:50

        best value is the 256gb range ssd atm

    • [Deactivated] on 27/08/2014 - 10:01
      +5

      SSD 120GB @ $75 (Windows, Office, Chrome)
      HDD 1TB @ $60 (Store)

      That's how you do it on a budget.

      • ProjectZero on 27/08/2014 - 10:05

        That was a compromise I came to as well, split the $150-200 for storage between HDD and SSD might be wiser.

    • Pacify on 27/08/2014 - 21:58

      If your on a budget, you can get a cheap SSD for under $80. The difference in load times on a HDD to SSD is just night and day

    • This Guy on 28/08/2014 - 01:12
      +1

      HDD's are great when new or looked after. Most people I know don't look after them and after six months the computer "feels slow". A year or two later they upgrade.

      Work computers are generally locked down. Their HDDs get defragged. Rubbish is deleted.

      SSDs keep a computer feeling new, lowers user fustration and reduces the want to upgrade every few years.

    • ProjectZero on 27/08/2014 - 11:12

      I sure hope you're joking…

      compare <— this has a better GFX card, basically the same setup an it only cost and extra $82

      to this <— the cheapest one $998

      I couldn't even find the GT745… but sub a GTX760 with 4GB

    • j4ck on 27/08/2014 - 11:42

      Has to be a troll…

    • No ONE on 27/08/2014 - 19:15
      -2

      Already saw an Apple fanboy. No need for spoilt Dell fanboy advise here

  • j4ck on 27/08/2014 - 11:44

    Just built a gaming PC for my partner with a SSD. Now I want one…Very jealous.

  • polol on 27/08/2014 - 12:04
    +1

    Probably depends on how much actual "photo editing" you'll be doing. Are you dealing with RAW files? Are you processing that much?

    IMO just go with the $550 build without the graphics card (no gaming = no card)
    http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/rmp_sg_whirlpoolpcs_gaming_conf…

    If you will be doing a lot then maybe the next bracket up, but again no graphics card needed.

    You may want to consider a $500 to $600 laptop as this will come with Windows 8.1 preinstalled and sometimes a full version of Microsoft office. This is like a $250 saving compared to a custom build? At that price point you can't argue with the cheaper laptops.

    • polol on 27/08/2014 - 16:39

      Forgot to add that you can pay a retailer $70 roughly to put your parts together for you.

  • smpantsonfire on 27/08/2014 - 16:23

    Just go and get one of those ones at ALDI, plug it in and away you go. No fuss building, and while you might save $100 building it yourself, this is way easier and ready to go.

    • mrmarkau67 on 27/08/2014 - 17:30

      Bah! Where is the fun in that?

    • [Deactivated] on 27/08/2014 - 18:47
      +1

      Aldi PCs are rubbish if you plan to keep it beyond the 60 days, good as a temporary measure instead of renting a PC though.

    • This Guy on 28/08/2014 - 01:18

      Be carefull buy ALDI boxes second hand. I found one with a VIA C7. Got asked to make it faster…

  • exonerate on 27/08/2014 - 18:56
    +3

    Hi OP !
    Just looking to help out, disclaimer that I'm not the best with tech, but I have built my own system before.
    Everyone above has been suggesting links and parts which is super helpful, so my take on commenting would be just a bit of a bare run down what makes up the whole computer, which I hope you find helpful, and anyone can jump in to clarify etc:
    1. Case
    This is the exterior box that holds everything inside, spend a bit more to choose one that looks good/ that you like/ personal preference / they can serve a purpose if it comes with a handle inbuilt to carry the thing or lights for fun etc
    1a. Case can be purchased with a power supply (think of it like a battery unit, also abbreviated PSU)built into it already or
    1b. Case can be purchased separately and the power supply can be purchased separately and assembled together.
    I think 450-550w power supply is enough for home use and only important to note that a heavy use/gaming computer will need a bigger 600w+ power supply? (just a ballpark for an idea, feel free to correct me for more accuracy)
    2. Motherboard
    This is a big flat piece which acts like a pin board base which everything else sticks onto. The motherboard has to 'match' a few of the other pieces so everything can connect together and the motherboard also determines all your possible outputs like keyboard slot, mouse slot, number of usb ports, number of blue 3.0 (faster) usb ports, monitor connections such as VGA or HDMI or DVI etc
    3. RAM
    RAM also known as 'memory' generally determines how many things you can have running / how many things you can do on your computer at once before it starts feeling slow, for example opening many different windows, internet browsers with multiple tabs, running more than one program such as media, internet, microsoft programs etc
    4GB should be standard for home use/ non gaming compared to some gaming/ a bit more heavy use go with 8GB
    4GB can be a single 'stick' of RAM, 8GB can be purchased as 2x4GB sticks etc
    4. Storage
    Storage is what determines the max capacity of your computer at the time. A few notes:
    4a. Storage can be expanded later on
    4b. Storage comes in two types, one is the standard normal Hard Disk Drive (HDD) and the other is the Solid State Drive (SSD)
    4c. Storage is sold in various capacities like 1TB, 2TB, 4TB etc and you can have more than one storage drive in your computer
    4d. Each storage drive then forms a drive on your computer like C:/, D:/, E:/ if you have more than one, this shows up in your 'My Computer' screen
    Interpretation:
    If you want a computer to run smooth and turn on very quickly then you would invest in a SSD and install windows on the SSD, SSDs run and process quicker hence they're a bit more pricey for the space they come with
    Suggestion could be to buy a medium size SSD (500GB?) and install Windows on this drive (for example Windows installed on SSD C:/) and to buy a normal HDD with decent capacity to hold all your media, music, office docs, games, photos, everything else etc as HDD are fairly good value for the space. You can always buy additional HDDs later on to expand your space if existing ones get full.
    5. Graphics card
    Usually the most expensive piece of equipment for a computer, used to run graphics and therefore gaming.
    5a. Also abbreviated GPU
    5b. Also some motherboards can come with an in built graphics card section, which means if you don't plan on playing many games that require good graphics that option is also viable, but it is generally that a stand alone independent graphics card will outperform a built in one.
    5c. May play a role in photo editing but I'm not sure to what extent
    6. Lastly, the CPU
    CPU, central processing unit, is the brain of the whole computer.
    The better this piece the smarter your computer, but you don't want to purchase something that you won't ever need/get the max value out of, for example get a genius brain to make toast.
    Generally i7 is better than i5 which is better than an i3, i5 being the sweet spot and pretty sure you won't need an i7.
    On parts lists they'd be seen as i5-2XXX, i5-3XXX, i5-4XXX which is i5-four digits. The first digit represents the generation of the chip, the later the generation the newer it is.
    7. Misc:
    You can always try to build it all yourself, heaps of guides on youtube and the internet, plus it's a great experience, alternatively at places like MSY you can purchase all of the parts individually and pay MSY to build it for you, I think it could cost around $100, but definitely not worth it if someone charges you more than that.
    I hope this helps, and I apologise in advance if the information is wrong in some way but this was based on my generalised understanding of it and hope it clarifies what you need to look out for on your checklist !
    All the best

    • exonerate on 27/08/2014 - 19:32
      +1

      Also forgot to include:
      8. Extras
      8a. A wireless card for connecting to the wireless home internet etc, quite cheap at $30ish, and simple
      8b. A cd/dvd/bluray drive optional to watch/burn/use a cd/dvd/bluray

    • YouLIKEyouLICK on 27/08/2014 - 22:20
      -2

      zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

    • This Guy on 28/08/2014 - 01:35
      +1

      Power supply should be from one of the major brands.

      There are ton of fake power supplies (Lies about power, protection, efficiency and uses similar sounding names and trade dress). These units are like Russian roulette.

      Even then, the cheapest brand name power supplies can have reliability issues.

      Basically google the power supply you want and read review conclusions. If it has no reviews, or only reviews for larger models, pick another unit.

      As for power, 150W is overkill for a low end Intel computer. But quality power supplies below 450W are hard to find.

      • shadowarrior on 28/08/2014 - 10:01
        +2

        Rule of thumb for powersupply. Always buy a 80+ certified one.

        • This Guy on 28/08/2014 - 16:35
          -1

          That's a bad rule of thumb.

          I've come across two self built machines with fake "80+ Bronze Certified" PSUs causing problems. And computer fairs used to be flooded with them.

          Some power supply’s lie about efficiency. Always double check the brand.

        • scrimshaw on 28/08/2014 - 17:10
          +1

          Shaw makes 80 plus certified power supplies.

        • shadowarrior on 28/08/2014 - 19:45

          @This Guy:
          There are fake Rolex, and fake everything. When someone asks you to buy a Rolex, do you automatically go and look for the fake one?

          If it's not listed here… it's not 80+ How hard can that be?
          http://www.plugloadsolutions.com/80pluspowersupplies.aspx

        • shadowarrior on 28/08/2014 - 19:46

          @scrimshaw:

          And Shaw got arse smacked for doing so (falsely displaying the 80+ logo). Specially after bunch of their PSUs caught fire frequently.

          Check WP posts from around 2008-2009 to see plenty of reports. MSY stopped stocking Shaw because of that as well. Think they resumed eventually.

        • This Guy on 29/08/2014 - 01:58

          @shadowarrior:

          Reputable jewellers don't sell fake watches.

          Plenty of computer stores sell fake power supply’s (sometimes they are fooled by the fake specs, other times they are acting less reputable).

          The list

          That is a list to check how efficient a PSU is. It says nothing about the quality. Also the first list is for the USA (115V).

          Check out 230V internal EU. It lists the Corsair VS series and the Silverstone ST50F.

          Many of the "no name" companies there make a variety of PSUs of differing quality. You would be a ton safer googling for reviews.

    • YouLIKEyouLICK on 27/08/2014 - 22:21
      -1

      what's the lowest you will take?..

    • picket23 on 27/08/2014 - 22:45
      +4

      What, half price of what the parts cost 4 years ago? Bargain!!!

    • This Guy on 28/08/2014 - 01:56
      +3

      "(4x2GB) DDR3 - $350.00"

      That's around $80 new today…

      You can build a brand new system with better specs for around $800, and you can get it silent for ~$1000.

      Good luck

    • IamEzza on 28/08/2014 - 18:41

      No offence but that asking price is WAY too high for a ~4 year old PC. It doesn't matter how good it was when new, it matters how it compares to what you can buy right now.

      • rapoot6 on 29/08/2014 - 13:23

        The best bit is the $400 value the SSD!

  • Geekomatic on 27/08/2014 - 23:31
    +2

    I've worked in technology retail & I've built for myself & for clients. I can tell you that, in your price range, you'd get better components having it shop-built. You also have the chance to review each piece as you go.

    I wanted to drive home the point of a good motherboard & PSU. These are the foundation of the machine. The rest can be cycled in & out, but these are 1 & 2 in importance. Get a good brand (Asus/Gigabyte/MSi) motherboard & at least an 80 bronze rated PSU @ 100wts. more than the most you ever think you'll need.

    i5 from Intel is perfect for you. RAM? I personally wouldn't want less than 16gb (& a motherboard that will hold 64gb for future upgrading). The RAM is where everything happens. SSD is fine, but if you want to start w/o it, get a WD Caviar Black hard drive- great value for $$$ & fast/reliable.

    Go to newegg.com &/or amazon.com to do your research before purchase. Newegg has a LOT of reviews on electronics & reading them will help you to understand what it's all about.

    Operating system: If Windows, I'd go 7 (some will squeal & fly their 8 flag up the pole- lol), if it were me, I'd go Linux Mate 17, 64 BIT. To each, their own. Two days ago I had the chance to see Steam run on a system of this spec in Linux & the gameplay was incredible!

    Anyway: fwiw & imho.

    The most important part is to relish it & to enjoy the purchase- not to kill the fun worrying if you got "the right/best" thing. Let us know what you end up with?

    :)

    • This Guy on 28/08/2014 - 02:24
      +1

      Cheap out on MB. Counterfeit capcaitors caused problems around a decade ago, but that has been fixed.

      CPU and RAM are overkill for web browsing/MS Office.

      SSDs stop the 6, 12 and 18 month slow downs.

      Win 8 - MS has reduced bloat in Win 8 because it want's to win the phone/tablet markets. If you don't like the start page you can use "start" + "x".

  • Geekomatic on 28/08/2014 - 01:38
    +1

    Power supply ratings by brand here.

    :)

  • BartholemewH on 28/08/2014 - 02:47
    +1

    I'll probably go with the below for my father in laws new home PC:

    ASRock H87M-PRO4 $64
    Coolermaster RC-344 with 420w PSU $74
    Patriot Signature 1600 8GB kit (2x4GB) $90
    ASUS DRW24D3ST DVDRW $20
    Intel Core I3-4150 3.5GHZ 3MB $127
    Crucial MX100 128GB $88
    Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit OEM $104

    Total is $567 including GST before shipping from MSY. If you already have a windows licence it's $463. If I was building it myself and not for someone else I would probably get a g3258 and a board that allows non Z overclocking with a better case/PSU but the Elite 344 will do the job in this instance and father in laws don't generally overclock. The H87M-PRO4 has 4xDDR3 slots and a header for front USB3 and costs barely any more than a H81. I chose the Crucial MX100 due to it's supposed better handling of power failure than the Samsung EVO.

    • ethereal88 on 28/08/2014 - 07:37

      Cheapo nasty case and PSU, cheapo mobo doesn't even have ALC 892.

      • BartholemewH on 28/08/2014 - 08:17

        Cheapo Coolermasters have done an adequate job on price conscious builds for me in the past. Cheapo board does have ALC892.

  • aussieaubs on 28/08/2014 - 09:45

    just go to MSY or centrecom and buy their basic generic box with a 24" screen should only set you back around $500 total

  • Gish on 28/08/2014 - 13:18

    get one from costco. Great warranty and will run brilliantly.

  • skc on 28/08/2014 - 14:55
    +2

    You can use the Intel NUC for $139 from the below deal. Will take only little space and power. I have not used these but think it should be a good option.
    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/158721
    You will need to add HDD and probably RAM too (not sure if it includes RAM). You will have to purchase Windows and other softwares separately and install them.

  • JimB on 28/08/2014 - 15:38

    Keep an eye on Dell outlet.

    http://www.dell.com/learn/au/en/audhs1/campaigns/dell-outlet…

    I picked up a Dell business grade PC (Optiplex)- virtually silent, very compact and well built- i5, 8gb ram etc at the start of the year for a bit over $600.

    It was claimed to be refurbished, but looks brand new, with all new packaging etc. I believe it was a cancelled order.

    The other thing you may want to do is find yourself an ex-lease Dell Optiplex i5 for $300. It will have many years of life left and will also come with Win7 COA so you don't have to buy Windows.

    Something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dell-Optiplex-SFF-980-Intel-Core-… would make a great PC if you don't play games. Or spend a bit more for one with a better processor if you want.

    As you can tell I like the Optiplex- very well built machines, they just seem to be much more reliable (both hardware and OS wise) compared to DIY built machine (which I use to do). There is a reason why Government organisations and large businesses purchase Dell Optiplex's.

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