Treadmill Cable Repair Require (Console Cable Damaged)

No ONE on 16/12/2014 - 23:48
Last edited 22/12/2014 - 20:40

Few years back we moved to a new place. In the process of transporting, the treadmills machine console cable got damaged when loading and unloading from the vehicle. Since then I have not bothered repairing it, until few weeks back I called some repairer who quoted about $100-150 to fix it.

It's a LifeSpan Swift brand treadmill machine and the model number is 4501F (probably very old model). The console cable is the one that connects the motor all the way upto speed controller. Here is the image 1 & 2 of damaged cable. It's a 9 pin cable connector and the damaged cable is the one that goes into and connect inside to the other connector (the above connector in the image).

Where would I be able to get these kind of cables and cheaper? any help would be appreciated.

Cable Specification:
The specification of the cable I have on the treadmill cables are:

227 IEC 53 (RVV) 300/500V

Extra information:

CCC A002325
NINGBO JINTAO DIANZI YOUXIAN GONGSI (probably manufacturer)

Cable/wire 9 core colors are:

Black, White, Red, Green, Yellow, Blue, Orange, Violet, GREY

UPDATE:
Fuse blown as well: contains 2 fuse

  1. Fuse 3.15A 250v
  2. 2nd Fuse 15A 250V (specification not visible from fuse itself, but upon contacting manufacturer I was told it is 15A fuse)
Sports & Outdoors

Comments

  • PVA on 17/12/2014 - 00:11
    +2

    I don't know that connector but I suggest you look at connectors in th RS electronics website and see if you can find it ( or Farnel )

    • donga100 on 17/12/2014 - 10:10

      Yes, you can absolutely buy these replacement cables for a lot cheaper than $100. I replaced a similar one on a cross trainer that I owned, bought off ebay.

      • No ONE on 17/12/2014 - 13:02

        a link would be a lot more helpful.

  • ESEMCE on 17/12/2014 - 12:38
    +1

    Rather than trying to match the existing affixed socket, it's probably easiest to just find an 8 socket (or greater) male and female pair and chop off the other side and solder on the new ones.
    Total cost of about $10, or $30 if you need to buy a soldering iron.

    Or if you don't need to connect/disconnect, an even easier option is to just solder the cables together and seal with some heatshrink tubing.

    Try Jaycar. Not the cheapest, but they'll be able to give some advice and could even be pursuaded to do the soldering for you if they're not busy and you're not confident..
    But seriously this is the easiest soldering you'll ever do. It's not hard or time consuming and easy to learn.

    • No ONE on 17/12/2014 - 13:01

      The existing cable is short itself, so soldering may not be an option. If Only I could find the compatible longer cable only then I might be able to attact it to connectors.

      • ESEMCE on 17/12/2014 - 13:04

        Cable is cable..
        Just buy some and solder it on to make it longer..
        There's heaps of length to solder in that image! You only need ~10mm for a join.

  • No ONE on 18/12/2014 - 14:34

    Today I went to Jaycar as well as bunning, neither had 9 core cable. However they did have 9 core cable which was for computer use only.

    The specification of the cable I have on the treadmill cables are:

    227 IEC 53 (RVV) 300/500V

    Extra information:

    CCC A002325

    NINGBO JINTAO DIANZI YOUXIAN GONGSI (probably manufacturer)

    • ESEMCE on 18/12/2014 - 15:01
      +1

      You don't need 9 core cable.. some cable of similar diameter will do fine.. just cut 9 lengths, solder a length to each wire, then heat shrink the joins, fit but don't shrink some heat shrink over the bundle and then make the next solder joins..
      You'll lose the colour coding for each wire at the tip, but shouldn't bee too much of a headache to work out which is which…

      • No ONE on 18/12/2014 - 17:30

        If I do that, will it not affect the treadmill control system. I mean each cable color code wire serve different purpose, then will it have any technical fault when soldering the existing cable with different wire color code. I am asking just because I want to be cution with electrical things.

        • ESEMCE on 19/12/2014 - 08:43

          The colour on the outside is just the colour of the plastic.. the actual wire inside is identical.

          It won't make any difference if the cable goes Red-Grey-Red, Yellow-Grey-Yellow, Blue-Grey-Blue etc etc provided the original cables are connected to the same colour as they were with the plug connectors then everything will work fine.

  • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 11:26

    Update:
    Jointed the cable and treadmill did not start. Called technician & was quoted $90 just for call out and additional cost for any repair that may require.
    I was told to check if fuse is not blowned, turned out fused was blown as well. Will get the fuse and will write back if the treadmill is fixed otherwise I need to look for cheaper technician.

    • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 11:46

      Double check your joined wiring to ensure you don't have a short circuit before plugging back in..

      • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 13:18

        I bought few new fuse 3.15A 250V and replaced the exiting one. The 2nd fuse is blew as soon as I turned on.
        Each joints are taped with electrical tap.

        It seems the second fuse is not 3.15A and I cannot read the specification for the 2nd fuse as its reading is invisible. However I read few readings which are: …15A 250V.

        Before 15A 250V there seems to be number but I am not sure. It could be 15A 250V, it could be not. I will upload the image of both fuse if anyone can identify them.

        • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 13:28

          If one fuse is blowing the other must still be OK.
          The fact the 3.15A fuse blew immediately indicates that something with your repair is not right or there's an internal problem in the console.
          Chances are higher that your repair is the problem and you've crossed wires somewhere…

          Looking in your picture, and assuming bottom left plugs into bottom right, it does appear to me that the colours on the plug don't actually align to the colours on the socket.
          ie bottom colour on the left is Red, but bottom colour on the right is Black.

          If that's the case, you should have soldered the Red to Black etc etc.

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 13:37

          @scubacoles: The first fuse is OK, the 2nd fuse could have been blown because 3.15A might not be the specification for fuse socket. You can see the original fuse are of different appearance. Fuse 2 is different from fuse 1.

        • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 13:48

          @Oz Bargain 3:
          Maybe, but if it blew immediately, with no load, then I suspect a short circuit.
          3A at 240V = 720W which you would not expect the tredmill to draw unless the motor was running.

          EDIT.. the "15A" fuse has blown in that picture… looks a bit thin for 15A

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 13:54

          @scubacoles: Is the original fuse is 15A (as in the image)? That fuse could have been long time ago, before starting to repair the cables.

          As well, I have attached the image of wire that shows the colour. (unfortunately I lost the broken tip few days ago).

        • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 14:04

          @Oz Bargain 3:
          So did the Black connector connect to the White connector?
          If so, looking at the photos you've uploaded, it appears to me that you need to crossover the Black cable to the White cable:
          White connector - Black Connector
          Red - Red
          Orange - Orange
          Purple - Purple
          Grey - Grey
          Blue - Blue
          Green - Green
          Yellow - Yellow
          Black - White
          White - Black

          In other words if you've just matched colours, the wiring is incorrectly joined and is probably the reason why the fuse has blown.

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 14:15

          @scubacoles: sorry If you got confused. The 9 pin White female connector (which is the bottom left in the image) connects with the board circuit. It does not goes into the black connector.

          In the image, the below the broken black connector is the other end of White connector, which makes the bottom pieces as one piece of cable.

          The white connector connects to circuit board, and the other end of white cable (which is the broken black one) connects with the above black connectors.

          Did I made it clear?

        • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 14:24

          @Oz Bargain 3:

          Understood..
          and it appears that the sequence of colours on the top left black connector is the same as the bottom right connector so matching colours to colours should be OK.

  • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 13:47

    Dupe

  • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 14:26

    I'm worried that a 15A fuse has blown.. that shouldn't happen!

    • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 14:35

      About 15A fuse, I am not sure if the fuse is 15A or not. Are you sure that the 2nd fuse is a 15A? because I wrote X15A and the letter "x" could be any number or it could be nothing.

      If from the Fuse Images, you think that 2nd fuse is 15A, then I need to buy 15A fuse.

      The original 15A (?) fuse blew 2 years ago I was unaware of that and if the 2nd fuse socket (if it is 15A socket) then putting 3.15A fuse might blew it.

      • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 15:05

        edit: deleted

      • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 15:09

        It's certainly not surprising that a 3A fuse in a 15A fuse block has blown immediately.

        Given that you say it has X15A etched, it sounds likely that it's a 15A. Maybe the motor controller pulls a heap of current in a surge at startup so it needs 15A?

        What's the wattage of the treadmill?
        Divide wattage by 240 and that should give you an indication of what the minimum required fuse is is.

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 15:14

          The confusion is that I cannot read the specification of 2nd fuse. First fuse is 3.15A and the 2nd fuse is (could be) XX15A.
          XX denotes that cannot be readable from the original fuse. XX could 3. or it could be nothing.

          I took the both fuse to jaycar and they could not identify the 2nd fuse either.

        • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 15:17

          @Oz Bargain 3:

          Well it appears to me that the blown fuse filament is thicker than the 3.15A filament.
          That's possibly an illusion caused by dust from the fuse blowing, but if not, that's a reliable indication that it's larger than 3.15A.

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 15:40

          @scubacoles: The more I look at 2nd fuse, the more it reads F15A 250. Do you think I have a chance to get correct information from calling the manufacturer about the fuse? I might try calling now.

        • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 15:43

          @Oz Bargain 3:

          Almost undoubtedly 15A fuse..
          Definitely worth trying the manufacturer of the Treadmill.

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 20:37

          @scubacoles: Received email from manufacturer and was told the 2nd fuse is 15A.

          Now I would look for 15A fuse and will test if the machine works fine.

    • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 15:06

      Probably you could be right about cable colouring as well, The male connector are in the flip direction. I have cut one of the male connector and joint its wire with the previous broken connector. It seems only blue colour should match and the others should connects from opposite/flip direction.

      Here is the image of male connectors

      I will try to reconnect and add a new fuse (3.15A 250V) in the 2nd fuse socket and will report back if it works.

      • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 15:13

        I can't confirm.. I'm not sure which end plugs into which, nor the orientation of plug into socket.
        Just triple check that wires connect up the same way they used to from one end to the other before plugging it all back together.
        And be careful… you're dealing with 240V on some of these cables…you should be heatshrinking, not electrical taping. Electrical tape will fall off over time. It's crap.

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 15:17

          I did a cross examine into the cables and it does connects to the opposite direction. The confusion seems to be with the 2nd fuse specification (it could be either 15A 250V or it could be 3.15A 250V).

        • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 15:18

          @Oz Bargain 3:

          What colour is/are the wire/s that connects either side of the fuse?

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 15:23

          @scubacoles: The other side connector (i.e. the top part, speed controller and sensor which users use during exercise) is exactly the same as the broken black female connector.

          The fuse side colour (the board circuit side) is not important as far as I see.

        • ESEMCE on 22/12/2014 - 15:29

          @Oz Bargain 3:

          Have a look on the circuit board around the fuse block to see if it mentions the amperage.

        • No ONE on 22/12/2014 - 15:41

          @scubacoles: No it does not. I tried to look each details but there was no information on the circuit board.

  • No ONE on 31/12/2014 - 15:59

    Update:

    Tried the 15A 250V fuse and powered on the trademill. The treadmill lights up but when I press the start button on treadmill, the fuse blows and treadmill goes off. It blew 2 fuses (15A 250V), I then tried 3.15A fuse as well, same reaction.
    Don't know why it keeps blowing the fuse.

    • ESEMCE on 02/01/2015 - 09:01

      Do you remember when/why it blew in the fist place?
      15A shouldn't ever blow.. there's something seriously wrong.
      Has the motor siezed?
      Maybe a power surge shorted out the speed controller?

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