[SURVEY] Which Car Do You Drive?

Starting this thread in hopes that it will give some ideas for those who are looking for a car (like me). If this is a dupe, please remove and mention the thread that I didn't see when I searched.

  1. Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
  2. Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
  3. How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
  4. Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
  5. Faults? Any major problems?
  6. Will you recommend your car?

Cheers

Comments

  • +2

    Which car do you drive? Toyota Corolla 1996 hatchback

    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Pre-owned

    Dealer or private seller? Private

    How much did you pay for the car? $700 in 2012

    Finance or cash? Cash

    Running costs? 6.8L/100km urban, city 7.5L/100km, servicing I do myself as it is my toy and daily :), I've replaced parts on my car but they weren't broken, just put better parts in. I service myself too, I did a major full service when I bought the car around $200. I replace with premium racing(I know it's not necessary, but I get better fuel economy, about 0.6L/100km) oil twice a year, so $120 a year. Insurance is 20 bucks a month, 3Rd party only.

    Faults? None.

    Any major problems? Road noise. Too slow (lucky it's manual). Strong winds makes me feel unsafe.

    Will you recommend your car? Yeah. Corolla boring but reliable. Easy to drive too.

    • Wowsers! That's a great deal if it's got you from a to b for 4 years.

  • +1
    1. 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV
    2. Leased through work
    3. $600 a month includes servicing, repairs, rego & insurance. Outright cost would be around $50k
    4. 45L tank which gets me 550km on fuel alone. Being a hybrid, it can operate on pure electric too, even on an empty fuel tank (Something I believe the Prius can't do) which gets me 60km. On a week of just school runs and drives to work, I never use fuel. Car is charged in my off-peak
    5. I've noticed a degradation of battery in the last 8 months I've had it. Mitsubishi guarantees the battery holding a charge above a certain number over 2 years though
    6. Absolutely. It's beautiful to drive. Always turns heads too when people can't hear a thing in electric mode.
    • -1

      Come on man, no one in the world paid $50k for an Outlander PHEV. You can pick up demos for high $30k and 0km examples in the mid to low 40s for the Aspire (top of the range) model.

      • The Prius can run on the electric battery whenever, as long as it has some charge. You have to hit the sweet spot on the accelerator pedal though (e.g. 65km/h is one of them for me). Wouldn't have anywhere near as much battery capacity as the PHEV though.

    • Rented this car in the UK last year over 3 weeks. It was a dream to buy. Great fuel economy for its size, and excellent features. The silence was eerie at the start but once I got used to it, the expression on people's faces, golden.

    1. 2005 Mitsubishi 380 GT
    2. Bought second-hand privately
    3. $15k cash in 2012 - paid a premium but it was what I wanted (Silver, sunroof, one owner, low kms)
    4. Servicing is cheap. Rego and insurance is as you'd expect. It is thirsty, but considering it's power, reliability, and low initial purchase price the fuel consumption doesn't bother me much.
    5. Bought in 2012 with 69,000km. It's just ticked over 155,000km. In that time a window regulator went (common problem), a CV boot came loose, and the air-con resistor went. I'm also a fusspot and tend to replace things whenever they're marginal, so it's not like I'm omitting items that should have been attended to. So for the age/kilometres I'm very happy.
    6. Hell yes. Despite the age it's a very refined car to drive. Considering these models go for about $6-8k second-hand they are awesome buying and I'd recommend one in a heart beat.
    • Got a 2005 380DB with 37000kms for the wife in 2009 from a dealer, with 2 years new-car warranty left, for $13k (thanks GFC!). Yes, 380's are awesome value, but the rear window regulators will die (replaced 2). Very solid comfortable drive. Awesome value second-hand, seriously underrated.

      • Yes, when my rear right window regular went I replaced the rear left whilst it was at the dealer because I figured it was a matter of time!

        • +1

          When our first one went, the mechanic asked the supplier of the part whether it was a common problem. The response was "how many of these parts do you want?" (implying he had a huge amount of stock because this part fails all the time).

  • +2
    1. No Car - Super Bike - Kawasaki Ninja ZX10R ABS
    2. Bought brand new from dealer
    3. Cash at $16,600 - Usual price is 19-23k dependent on model
    4. Fuel is around $15 for about 200-250km dependent on "spirited" riding
    5. Nothing - possibly one of the most reliable manufacturers
    6. In a heartbeat
    • Err. No, nobody pays 19-23k for a ZX10R. 16k is pretty much the usual price for them despite the inflated RRP. I had one for 2 years and paid 12,500 for one with only 5,000km

      I also had absolutely no issue with it. Very nice bike indeed.

      • You obviously aren't up with the latest model then - If you buy an earlier generation you will get one for 16-17k but the Gen 5 they're 21.5-23k

        • Uh no. That's irrelevant. I bought my gen 4 in 2013 so that was the latest model at the time. Not to mention that gen 4 and gen 5 look virtually identical.

        • @djc926: I don't see how this makes me wrong in what I stated - I wasn't talking about how much YOU paid. If you were to set out and buy one now that's the cost. That's all I was saying

    1. Hyundai i30 wagon, 2010 model.
    2. Bought second-hand at auction at Manheim in 2012 with 105K kms on the clock: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/122956#comment-1689568
    3. Paid $11,300, by bank cheque.
    4. Service + pink slip: ~$600 per year ; Fuel: ~$40 for a full tank of unleaded, gets me around 390 KMs, maybe fill up every 2 or 3 weeks? Comprehensive Coles insurance: $520 per year. Total of all car-related costs (i.e. add rego [$250?], add CTP green slip [$500?] + service + fuel + comprehensive insurance + parking fees [$80?]) is around ~ $2600 total per year.
    5. In past 3.5 years: Air conditioning stopped working, cost $600 to fix [this is the only fault that annoyed me, as it should have been fixed under warranty by the dealer service centre, yet they repeatedly failed to find the root problem, and would just regas as a band-aid fix, and then claimed the bolts had been changed to avoid having to really fix it, whereas a specialist A/C repairer had it found and fixed in 6 hours, and told me it was a common fault with the A/C hoses in these models, so everything the dealer had said was B.S.]. All tyres were low in 2015 and needed replacing: $400. Battery replaced in 2014: ~$160. Had 2 factory recalls [one done, and one pending whilst parts on back-order from Korea], both fixed/to be fixed at no cost to me, even after 5 year warranty period has expired. Everything else is completely standard wear & tear stuff.
    6. Yes, if I could go back in time, I would buy it again. It's got good safety features, it's nicer than my old car, can move more stuff, yet takes up less space and uses uses a bit less fuel. Only thing I would change is that I did 2 services at a dealer service centre - Suttons City Hyundai - they were expensive yet very unimpressive (with the A/C problem, and a secondary problem with a warning light that later turned out to be one of the factory recall issues). Instead I would have just gone to a decent non-dealer mechanic from the start (which is what I did after the first 2 unimpressive services), and only gone to the dealer for recalls (i.e. refuse to spend a single penny at the dealer service centre).
  • Private
    1.2000 Toyota Prado
    2.Bought new from Dealer
    3.50K
    4.$150 fuel gives 800km, service charge is not too expensive
    5.No fault at all
    6.Will recommend to anyone who wants a family car and some offroad fun, safe and reliable

    Company
    1.2005 Honda Accord Euro
    2.Bought new from Dealer
    3.42K
    4.$60 fuel gives 500km, service charge is more expensive than toyota
    5.No fault at all
    6.Will recommend to anyone who wants a sedan with some luxery, vtec is good and reliable

  • 1) 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV
    2) 2016 compliance/2014 build from dealer.
    3) $33990 D/A.
    4) Don't know yet. Still on first tank. Will be a while. 45 litres capacity..
    5) What issues??…. (it's a Mitsi..!!)
    6) Would recommend for sure…

    • Looks great, and has loads of boot space, but unfortunately it's only 5 seats (due to the electric batteries taking up the space where the rear row would have been).

  • +3
    1. Hyundai Getz 2003, 4dr, manual 1.3ltr
    2. new
    3. about 13k cash
    4. very cheap, 400kms one tank for around $45 - $50
    5. window winder plastic thingy comes off occasionally, gear stick glue failed, superglue fixed. 92,000kms, so still pretty low, no mechanical issues at all
    6. Yes provided you are 1 person the 4 harnessed children under the bonnet will get you where you're going (recommend for city living, not traveling more than half an hour at a time)
  • Which car do you drive? VW Caddy 2015 1.6TDI
    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? New
    How much did you pay for the car? $0, thanks work
    Running costs? $0, thanks work
    Faults? Nup
    Will you recommend your car? Not mine, question was what car do you drive. Great for a worker who doesn't need a ute, excellent handling for a van, great fuel economy. Quite noisy due to big open area in the back when unladen (good when loaded though)

  • +1

    Daily:
    2010 Holden Barina 1.6ltr manual.
    $13k new financed.
    Cheap as chips & low maint etc.
    Not super frugal.

    Weekend family car:
    2011 XR6 Turbo 6spd Auto
    $36k 4000km ex dealer manager car
    Supreme power 0-100 5.2 seconds stock.
    11ltr comb avg, 7.9hwy if cruisy.
    70k km now and no major faults :-)
    Insurance ~$500
    Annual service $270 with racv roadside assistance included.

    Feels quicker than Holden SS 2016.
    But look at getting one in a wagon before they vaporize.

    • +1

      XR6 turbo is a beast of car.

      Feels quicker than Holden SS 2016

      Beware, Holden fanboy's incoming.

  • +3
    1. VW MK7 Golf GTI Man 2015
    2. New
    3. 46.5k Cash
    4. Fuel $60 a week, ~6.7L/100km, Servicing is capped @ 310, 425 , 1250 (every 15k/1yr) off the top of my head. Insurance (u25) is 1k pa.
    5. Slight issue with sunroof wasn't closing, fixed under warrenty. 2nd gear is a b!#$% and jitters in, but aint going to mention it untill i need a new clutch lol, purely because to get to the gearbox is a nightmare and you practically pull the whole care apart in which it wouldnt go together the same imo. My old golf also had a couple of DSG issues (mk7 2013 tdi)….
    6. 100%, tech is up there and performance. downside is the issues….. 0% if youre looking to get one out of warranty. next car will likely be awd (mk9 golf r, focus rs, a class merc, wrx)
    1. Honda HRV 2015 Limited Edition
    2. Brand new from dealer
    3. $32.5 k cash
    4. $35-40 each refuel,$1k-ish insurance, haven't had my first proper service yet but I think it'll be around $200 at Honda
    5. Still fairly new so nothing so far
    6. Absolutely! Not a performance maniac, just wanted something that feels comfortable and spacious but also not too heavy on fuel and this car fits my needs perfectly. The LE leather seats gives the interior a premium feel, making each ride a real comfy experience. All in all very happy with it so far.
  • Just picked up a car I purchased last week. After owning 3x used cars purchased with over 100k I thought before I am 30 I want a new car.

    1. 2015 Mazda 3 Maxx Sedan Auto
    2. Demo - 500kms on the clock
    3. $22,000 finance
    4. Hopefully bugger all
    5. Too early to say
    6. Love it so far.
    1. Which car do you drive? 2013 Honda Jazz
    2. Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Bought new from dealer.
    3. How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Approx $17.5k. Paid cash.
    4. Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance. I don't drive a huge amount (catch train to/from work and only use car on the weekends mostly), car costs about $45 a tank for fuel and that lasts me close to a month. Servicing and insurance costs are reasonable for the size/value of the car.
    5. Faults? Any major problems? So far so good. Have only had regular routine services. Everything runs correctly, no issues.
    6. Will you recommend your car? Yes, it's a bit gutless but compensates by being surprisingly spacious and well equipped compared to it's main competitors.
  • +2
    1. VW Golf GTI Performance 2015
    2. Dealer Demo around 8000kms though.
    3. $43,000 driveaway - financed at 3.99% over 4 years.
    4. Capped priced servicing, premium petrol which can be expensive depending how hard it's driven. Insurance is surprisingly affordable.
    5. No problems so far.
    6. Highly recommended!
    • You have to pay 225 per week other than insurance, ctp, rego, roadsideassist .
      Can you tell me how much your insurance comes to ? If not specifics then is it lower for new cars than older ones ?

    • Great looking car! I love the squared DRL's.

    1. Toyota Land Cruiser Dual Cab 2016 GXL
    2. Brought New
    3. $70,000 financed at 4.5% over 5 years
    4. Cap price servicing, $800 insurance $800 rego and about $150 a month fuel
    5. None as of yet.
    6. Yes i would.
    • Love that car - been watching a few YouTube videos of people with 70series dual cabs - they look fun to drive. I think i'll wait for the MY17 with all the safety and emissions updates - Although what I am really hoping for is the twin turbo V8 and 6 speeed gearbox from 200 series.

      • I have been waiting for a couple years before i decided to get it, I had a 2006 factory turbo single cab before then it got written off and just been using works cars for a while.
        When they announced the updates going to get a DPF i decided to buy as you can't legally put a bigger exhaust on it because of the emmissions filter on the exhaust.

        • +1

          are you going to get the full works? Bar, lift, ECU etc? Would love to see the beast / progress.

        • Got a factory alloy bar at the moment, Tray will be finished off sunday night if we have a good run.
          Lift going in next week as i did it for a GVM upgrade on it.
          Then exhaust and stuff will be after

  • +1

    Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
    Toyota Prado GLX, 1996

    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
    Private seller

    How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
    $10k, cash (back in 2009)

    Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
    It's LPG, about $14/100km. Service is DIY. $220 3rd party insurance

    Faults? Any major problems?
    None

    Will you recommend your car?
    Absolutely. With LPG it's cheap to run
    It's an 8-seater. Great for camping. Goes anywhere
    I can move house with it
    I can pick up free fridge, couch, tables etc. from the kerb

  • Which car do you drive? Ford Falcoln Forte Classic 1999 Model

    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Second hand from a private seller. It had done about 130000kms and bought it in 2008

    How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? $3800 cash

    Running costs? Fuel about 600$/year , Service 180$/year, Insurance 900$/year, CTP650$/year, Roadside Assist 180$/year, Rego350$/year and 1200$ annually for repair.

    Faults? Any major problems? It is giving me about 1200 to 1800$ repair every year. Many things have been replaced and it is generally high maintenance but low enough for me to not buy another new car or a second whose repairs would be unpredictable (i know very little about cars).

    Will you recommend your car? No because it is an old model and things seem to be falling apart one by one. The fuel efficiency is really bad because it has a 4.0 engine but I dont need to use the car a lot so it is ok.

    Your suggestions are welcome. I have very little knowledge on this issue.

    • +1

      Yeah the late 90s early 2000s Falcons are notoriously expensive to run out of warranty, they practically fall apart. A mate had one which had just shy of 100,000kms and the roof lining sagged, the shocks were shot, several injectors needed replacing, brakes needed major work and fuel efficiency was poor. Most cars, even 10 year old cars don't require $1000s in repairs each year. If you are paying that kind of $$$ it would be cheaper to buy a new car with capped price servicing.

  • +1
    1. BMW M135, manual, 2013 with racechip ultimate
    2. Second hand 5000km on clock, private
    3. $59k cash
    4. Servicing: $400 every 18 months of so, fuel: 550km per tank and I give it some every drive, but that's on central coast nsw so less start stop. Insurance: 1200/year, excess $700 with shannons due to racechip
    5. Zero problems
    6. Best car ever, second 1 series for me, very reliable, faster than 997 911 s pack porsche (on dry roads). Every moment in car is a joy, only issue is traction in the wet as I am a lead foot and don't have LSD yet.

    2nd car
    1. Mitsubishi Pajero NX Exceed 2014
    2. Second hand 26k on the clock, private
    3. $46k cash
    4. Servicing: new to this car, $800 under fixed price scheme which I understand is both expensive and this was a higher cost service. Next job to find a reputable mitsubishi mechanic
    5. Zero problems but only 5 weeks into ownership
    6. Very happy, feels bullet proof, much more comfortable to drive than the BMW which is very firm ride, but bought for a different purpose and speed wasn't a factor

  • Car #1
    1: Hyundai Santa Fe 2015
    2: Dealer new
    3: Novated Lease, Car was $51k w. extras
    4: Packaged with lease
    5: No issues yet!
    6: Yes! This is a great mid-size SUV.

    Car #2
    1: Honda Accord Euro 2008 w. ~50,000kms on clock. puchased 2014
    2: Used, Dealer
    3: Financed. Purchased for $19K
    4: $70 pw @ 650k per tank (U95+), $700 insurance, ~$500 3x services per year
    5: That Honda air-bag recall (still need to book it :O) otherwise none.
    6: Awesome luxury car with super comfy seats. Driving and comfort feels better than santa fe IMO

  • -1

    2012 Hyundai Elantra Sedan.
    Bought 2 months back, paid $13,500 cash with 28k on the clock.
    Pvt seller.
    $35-38 to fill tank, drives ~540 kms.
    Insurance is $800/year with AAMI.
    Great looking car, but drivers seat is bit cramped. My previous car was a 2007 Élantra, which had a much spacious drivers seat.
    Great car to have/drive if you are not very tall.

  • Car #1
    1: Lancer EVO X GSR SST 2008
    2: Dealer new
    3: Cash - $71000 (good value back then but looks crazy now considering what you can get for that price nowadays - this was done just after the GFC with the government new car incentive which roughly amounts to 25% off)
    4: 12 L/100km around town. Can get 8s on highway but on one 5 lap session at QR saw computer read out of 51 L/100km's :-)))
    5: Had a cracked front disc rotor on the track but this was probably my fault for not warming up properly. It was a Brembo disc so not a fault of Mitsu. Gave me a chance to replace it with DBAs for $400 anyway (super easy to DIY). Insurance $800-1000/yr (rating one > 25 yrs old, unmodified). Also had a very unusual AYC pump hydraulic leak which puzzled the dealers, and was replaced under warranty for no cost. Servicing so far averaged $200-400/yr (at independents). Front brake pads done recently for $250.00 with Ferodo 2500s (can get cheaper pads but why compromise on its performance which the car was engineered for).
    Otherwise completely rock solid and reliable despite the numerous track days. It is now 6-7 yrs old, driven daily to work and is still on its initial battery!!! No rattles.
    6: Loved it and would recommend (new at the moment is probably difficult as its competitors are better in comparison write ups - though this will give you ammunition to bargain the price down to ridiculous levels) if you want a reliable yet reasonably comfortable daily but trackable car. You will need to defend its interior from german car drivers however as it is somewhat low rent. However once you get it on the track, feel the turn in and chuckable AWD drifts, you couldn't care less if there is no soft touch plastic on the dash :-) I do wish for more kWs as it is a heaviish kind of car and it's a bit sad seeing AMGs run away from you on the long QR straights (though catch up through the corners) but won't tune it as I want to keep the reliability for daily work use (it's out of warranty now).

    Car #2
    1: Kia Sorento XM 2012 GLi
    2: New
    3: Cash. 48500 with extras - tow pack, side steps etc…
    4: 9-12 L/100km (depends on if it's me or my mrs driving). On HWY can get low 6's/100km. Insurance approx $600. Avr service $350 (just did the 4 yr for $550 however)
    5: I decided in 2012 to put faith in Korean cars and it has not gone wrong. Only issue at the moment is a slight rattle in the left door and now the engine has shown a few oil drops on the garage floor which I was told due to a small seal leak, which I will get looked at under its 5 yr warranty.
    6: There's a reason why this car has been on top of Australia's Best Car list in its segment for a couple of years in a row back in 2012. It handles well, good power in the engine and nice gearbox, quiet on highway and long distance trips and I am sure will be reliable even after its 5 yr warranty runs out. Highly recommended, with the new Sorento and Santa Fe being even better.

  • +3

    1999 Mitsubishi FTO GX Aero
    Private
    $1050
    $650 3rd party (on Ps), $60ish on fuel every 3 weeks, all self serviced, maybe $50/month in the long run?
    The car was dirt cheap due to an accident and them using body filler incorrectly, cost me about $800 to fix and 3 weekends.
    Yes, great sporty car for a P-plater and they are getting real cheap.

    • The only gripe I have is it's FWD. Nonetheless its a decent looking car.

      • Yeah, FWD sucks, but when you can't even drive with a turbo it goes alright. For the price they are at now they're awesome, unfortunately most are trashed though… They seem to attract a certain kind of person.

  • +1

    2015 Audi Q5 2.0TDI
    Bought new from dealer.
    Approx $65k. Novated Lease
    75L tank, 800+KM city driving. $1800 but that includes lease payments (typically < $1200 for non lease) Servicing is around $750/yr but I am on 3 yr free servicing corporate plan
    No issues so far (involved in diesel scandal, but voluntary recall not detailed yet) Multimedia system dated as it was released 5yrs+.
    Yes, decent power for size, i've driven the 3.0TDI aswell and besides that initial burst of speed, is pretty much the same. last of the german manufactured Q5. next model will be made in mexico.

    • I couldn't drop $65k knowing a car has plastic seats.

  • 1.2004 Toyota Camry Grande MCV36R (full option with Sat Nav & leather inerior)
    2. pre-owned private seller
    3. $9500 in 2011 with 120000km on odometer.
    4. 12L/100km on computer /$60 ~$90 on fuel + $600 rego a year + $130 new battery $600 for newsets of front and rear brake rotor and pads. + 1000 for timing belt +water pump +major service)etc..etc.
    5.Age is getting to the 10 year + car. Door handles (inside) breaks (easy fix replacement) and window controller is having contact issue not making connections. Slow leak on the power steering column but can manage with refill. other than that all working fine.
    6.Yes, young family. very easy to keep and parts are cheap. I do all my DIY for oil change and brakes. yes I would recommend this car.

  • Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
    Toyota Camry 1988

    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
    Pre-owned, dealer (92,000 km on clock, legit- log book checks out)

    How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
    AUD$1,600, cash

    Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
    7L/100km, Insurance $200/annum

    Faults? Any major problems?
    in 3 years 1 issue costing AUD$200

    Will you recommend your car?
    Great car. Solid, reliable, if you can get over it being 'old'.

  • +2
    1. Honda Accord Euro 2006
    2. Deceased estate through Lawyer with only 60,000km
    3. $9000 cash (2 years ago)
    4. ~9L/100km. Rego ~$600/yr in WA and comprehensive insurance ~$500/yr
    5. Only thing that's gone wrong in 2 years is the alternator died a few months ago.
    6. Yes, smooth to ride, limited problems so far and looks more expensive than it is.
    1. 2003 Toyota Corolla Sportivo
    2. New from dealer
    3. $34,000 cash
    4. 8.5L/100KM, Insurance $1000-$1200
    5. Water pump replaced, radiator replaced, timing cover seal replaced due to small oil leak. I think starter motor is on its way out. But otherwise engine is still going strong with about 115K on it.
    6. Yes. Seems popular amongst P plate drivers. Downsides is that the car handles like a boat straight from factory, so needs some suspension upgrades to improve the handling. Engine needs to revved beyond 6200rpm to get it to come alive.
  • 1.Hyundai 2004 elantra
    2.Second hand
    3.$4500 purchased around 2 and half year ago~ 99800km.
    4.just paid
    5.just service, alternator dead at 140000km this year after 12 years use, reasonable. replaced a new one at ultratunr for $300
    6.absolutely recommended , never had other issue, great on fuel for a old car……8-9L/100k 2.0 auto 4 cyl easy to maintain

    • oh i do replaced radiator last year, a bit leaking around cap, didn't effect driving, find out during a regular service because the mechanic guy noticed some white marks around my radiator cap, it turns out not the cap problem but the radiator, so changed a new one with 2 years warranty for just 150…..amazing cheap to replace parts……

  • 1.Hyundai i30, 2008, CRDI SX
    2.Pre-owned, private seller
    3.$10,000 cash
    4. Around 6L/100km mixed driving, I can get lower on long trips - best I had was 3.9L/100km for a 1000km trip. I can't remember rego, $880 for comprehensive with NRMA.
    5. Master clutch cylinder failed, cost about $400 to fix including labor.
    6. Yes. Plenty of power for the size, amazing rolling acceleration.

    1. Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
      2004 Nissan Cube Cubic (7 seater) Autech Rider edition (body kit, alloys, etc.)
    2. Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
      Dealer who imported it (Down Under Auto's - W.A.)
    3. How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
      Cash. $10,500.
    4. Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
      $40 to fill the tank (it's got a small 45l tank). 7.5l/100km. Insurance through Shannons (W.A) for about $500 a year (garaged etc.). Servicing is the same as a Nissan Micra ('cos that's what the engine is from).
    5. Faults? Any major problems?
      Not for me, though I hear the door locking actuators fail.
    6. Will you recommend your car?
      Absolutely. It's got a large amount of space in the back when you lay down the back row, and a HUGE amount of space if you lay down the centre row (it goes totally flat), especially due to the square design. The 7 seater has about 16cm more length. It's also the most unique and funky design on the road. Toyota has tried to copy it with the Rukus. Kia tried to copy it with the Soul. Personally I find the BZ11 style nicer than the more rounded BZ12 (more recent) style. Though if you could get a BZ11 with the 1.5 Tiida engine I would prefer that. The Rider version with the body kit/alloys etc. is much nicer than the standard (easy way to spot a Rider is that it has no Nissan badge at the front). I would not buy this car if I had to drive up a steep hill too often, as even with overdrive off (which lowers the gear ratio for hills). Mine is for sale btw as I have 4 kids (which is ok) but they have schoolbags (not so good). Getting an Elgrand E51.
      http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/thornlie/cars-vans-utes/7-sea…
    1. Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
      2008 Toyota Prius
    2. Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
      Dealer, used (at 3 yrs old)
    3. How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
      $15k in 2011. Finance (RAC).
    4. Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
      LOL. Hardly anything. 4.5l/100km (so $60 per 1000km). Insurance is cheap. Servicing is cheap (1.6l engine iirc).
    5. Faults? Any major problems?

    - 12V Battery… it's better to have a Prius compatible one. Otherwise after a couple of years your dash will go crazy. No other faults at all.
    6. Will you recommend your car?
    Absolutely. Not a funky design like the Nissan Cube, but I like the rear at least (the rest is boring, but not ugly like some (many) think :) ). The hybrid battery has no issue at all, and Toyota keep extending the warranty on it (10 yrs now I think). The First Prius (the sedan shape) had a different hybrid battery setup and wasn't very reliable. This car will easily go over 2 million km's with just normal servicing. They've done that already elsewhere. Would I buy a 600km Prius… absolutely (after the typical auto inspection for $150 of course to uncover anything bad). Plenty of room in the boot (as it's a hatchback). Absolutely love this car for it's practicality and fuel saving.

  • +1
    1. Which car do you drive? Make, model, year
      2003 Nissan Elgrand E51 Highway Star
    2. Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller?
      Imported via J-Spec, direct from Japanese Auction
    3. How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash?
      About $15k all-up (minus insurance): $1100 to Jspec; $4500 for the car (about $2500) and FOB (transport/paperwork to port); $3300 to the shipping agent (for shipping, transport etc. to Fremantle), $3850 for the Compliance shop (yeah, I know it's about $2k over east…. they have a monopoly here), plus other bits and pieces (e.g. new tyres) on top.
    4. Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance
      14l/100km…. not going to drive it too much :) We needed a 7/8 seater due to the 4 kids and their schoolbags etc. Insurance will be about $600 via Shannon's W.A.
    5. Faults? Any major problems?
      Apart from it not having been inspected correctly in Japan (came with cig burn and stinks of smoke), nothing yet as we haven't picked it up (will get it in a week or 2). I understand the rear cats need to be removed to protect the engine (apparently the VQ35DE V6 engine (same as in Nissan 350Z) has an issue where the front cats (there are two) disintegrate and clog up the back cats, leading to the engine overheating and exploding (well, not exploding, but totally stuffing it up anyway).
    6. Will you recommend your car?
      Too early to tell. I'd definitely have it on the list for people movers. It's brilliant to drive, but yeah it's thirsty. Many models come with rear monitor (factory) that flips down, automatic sliding doors etc. etc. It's a luxury people mover. Looks cool. We had Delica's before the Prius and loved them too, and they are a similar size to this. If you buy one at a dealer here in Aus, be aware that 80% have had their odometer wound back, so make sure you get it properly checked (compare auction papers to Shaken (mileage at last Jap MOT equivalent, happens every 2 years) as they can con you with the Shaken). If I had the choice again I'd still import, but use either Peter Grice, or Iron Chef Imports.
  • +1

    1 2015 Mazda 3 SP25
    2 New
    3 29k drive away with Tint, Opticoat, Interior Protection, Floor Mats, Rear Window Shades
    4 average combined ~7l/100km, $300/$330 alternating capped price service 6 months/10,000km, ~$600 comprehensive insurance
    5 None so far
    6 Absolutely, never been happier with a car, still puts a smile on my face after 6 months.

  • Purchased New Mazda 3 Sports / 2013 for $38K in Cash
    9.1L/100KM , ~$120-300 for service/year, ~$380 comprehensive insurance (Insurance value of $34K now)
    Definitely recommended!

  • Which car do you drive? Mazda3 SP25 (luxury sport model), 2009
    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Private
    How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Finance. $17, 000
    Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance Insurance around 1k, fuel quite cheap. Maybe 60 a fortnight, if that.
    Faults? Any major problems? Not even a scratch.
    Will you recommend your car? Absolutely.

    1. MY14 VW Golf Mk7 (90TSI Comfortline)
    2. Bought new from a dealer in October 2013
    3. Financed the ~$20k changeover price after trading in my 2005 MkV Golf.
    4. It's about 50L to fill up from well into the red, I use 95 so it's about $60-70. We get about 600km in city driving (we are mostly in traffic) but I have done over 750km on a tank when mostly on highways. Insurance is about $1k/yr agreed value, old Golf was comparable initially. Service is fixed price plus all the bullshit. Around $400 usually.
    5. We had an issue early on with a plastic cover coming loose. Fixed under warranty straight away. Other than a couple of really small cosmetic issues it's been fine.
    6. Definitely recommend it. First Golf was solid and reliable for 8 years, this one has been doing well so far (it's our only car, and in 2.5 years has already done about 60% of the total KMs the old car did). Love it and would buy another.
    1. 2007 BMW 335i E93
    2. private sale - 86,000km on clock
    3. $35,000 part car loan
    4. 11-12L/100km a lot less fuel efficient if you open up the twin turbos
    5. Water Pump shat itself - $650 i provided the pump and thermostat and cost $350 to fit, DME Fried, $500 to repair, new coils and injectors $3000, Walnut Blast $500, General Service $200
    6. Even with all the problems the smile it puts on your face when you put the foot down is worth it, budgeted for most repairs as i knew they were coming up at 100,000kms
  • 1.2002 Mazda Metro Shades
    2.pre-owned from private seller
    3.$1200 unfinanced
    4.Fuel approximately 7-8L/100km, third party insurance only, tyres have lasted a couple of years, minor service approximately once a year, recently had brakes done but apart form that extremely cheap to run
    5.No major problems - worry free motoring ;)
    6.Would recommend for anyone looking for something to tide you over until you lash out on something that's a little more fun!

  • BMW 520d 2009
    Bought second hand, had done 80,000km is now upto 145k km's
    Beautiful car, solid, drives nicely
    Diesel tank lasts 800-1000km depending on driving
    Loved it so much bought an F80 520d BMW.

    • So how much did you pay for it?

  • +1
    1. Audi Q3 (2014), 2.0 TFSI, 125kw, Technik package, 18s
    2. $55000 novated lease; ex-demo (800km on odometer)
    3. Uses 95/98 octane so bit more expensive like most Euros; do about 10L/100km per novated leave statements (all city driving — I rarely drive > 70kmh in Sydney); $900 comprehensive insurance; servicing free for 3 years under lease so expecting some serious damage to the wallet next year ;(
    4. Audi MMI crashed a few times randomly but firmware upgrade seems to have fixed it; had the key get stuck in lock < 10 times & have to restart engine, move car forward or backwards, the off again to remove (pretty annoying and dealer has noooo idea)
    5. If you can afford it, sure, nice car to drive, responsive/zippy, good for young small family or two professionals, but I think I'll go with something a bit more OzBargain friendly next time e.g., looking at a Mazda CX-5 next with cheaper servicing
  • 2003 VY Commodore Executive Wagon on LPG
    From Dealer
    $5500 cash in 2010
    Fairly cheap to run - about 16L/100 on gas, cheap to service
    has always had an issue with the intake manifold gasket (apparently a common issue with ecotecs, we have just left it as a tiny bit of oil ends up in the coolant but that's about it) and has to have things like suspension bushes and engine mounts replaced. Has had an annoying engine warning light for ages which is thermo fan related yet the thermo fans work fine.
    It's done 352,000kms and doesn't blow smoke or use much oil and still runs well, took us from Adelaide to cairns and back via the coast without an issue.
    Would recommend as in the last 6 years that we've owned it we haven't spent much on it. Parts are REALLY cheap, especially as we live in SA and go to upullit.

    Just bought

    2007 VZ Commodore Executive Wagon
    Has aftermarket LPG Injection
    $3900 cash privately purchased in 2016
    A bit early to say running costs but the LPG Injection is a big step up from mixer systems - runs really well seems to be doing about 12.5L/100 in the city and considering LPG is about 65c a litre you get the economy of a small call
    They do say that the alloytecs tend to have an issue with timing belts around 100-150,000k's so getting one that has already had the timing belt replaced might be a good idea
    Probably a bit early to recommend this one as we only just bought it but we really didn't have any alternatives for what we needed - we wanted a big car that had a good tow capacity for a caravan, didn't want the horrible fuel economy of an SUV, considered the ford territory but were put off by people reporting bushes wearing out really quickly and just generally shoddy build quality.

  • +1

    1997 Mazda 323 Astina (5 doors)
    Pre-Owned. Private seller.
    $3100 Cash
    $50 for a full tank (~45 liters tanks) runs for 350-400kms. Servicing is about 250 for a minor and major goes to 500. Paid $260 for one-year third party insurance.
    No faults and never disappointed me. Very thankful to my car.
    No. Get a proper car 2005+ model.

    1. Toyota Camry Hybrid 2010
    2. Pre-owned. Dealer.
    3. $21,000 in 2012. Cash.
    4. Yes. ~7L/100km. ~$350 Serviced at Toyota. ~$30 a month.
    5. No. No, however boot space smaller because of extra battery pack, laying back seats down don't allow you any more space in boot because of said issue.
    6. Yes.
  • BMW 523i (E39 5-series), 1997
    pre-owned, private (bought in 2004)
    $34k, cash
    Fuel efficiency - not good, about 10km/L highway. Don't bother with comprehensive insurance, TP-property $210 p.a.
    Servicing: $500-850/major
    Faults - key barrel broke (common issue), all other issues introduced by incompetent mechanics.
    Recommend - totally (hence holding on till death), however most are near the end of their life now.

    • +1

      Love the E39's, had an 01 530i m-sports, much better driving dynamics than my newer e60

  • Which car do you drive? BMW, 550i, 2008 (E60)
    2.Private
    3.$55,000 (Novated lease)
    4.$6-7,000 Per Year ($1600 Insurance, Rego/ CTP 1k) Fuel average combined 10.8/100 (Not bad for a V8) - Canberra Roads, so not equiv to Syd Traffic
    Repairs in the last year or so have lifted the running costs
    All Gaskets replaced - $2200
    Gearbox Solanoids - $1300
    Tyres $1250~ (275/35/19)

    5.Oil Leaks - Had the engine lifted to replace all gaskets
    6.If you can afford to run it sure, I use the lease to assist with the ongoing costs. For driving Dynamics I wouldn't recommend the E60 over an E39 or the newer models (I would suggest looking for an F10 535i)

    • Ouch on $1600+ insurance a year!

      • That was with Alianz, all other quotes came to around $2500 :( I wasn't quite 30 at the last renewal so it should be cheaper this year (fingers crossed)

    1. Which car do you drive? Toyota Avalon 2001
    2. Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Pre-owned, private seller.
    3. How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? $3750 in cash
    4. Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance $250 third party insurance, $100-200 service/year, full tank ($50-$60) for 450km.
    5. Faults? Any major problems? Nothing yet
    6. Will you recommend your car? Yes
    1. 1990 NA Mazda Mx5
    2. Pre-owned private seller
    3. <$4k without rwc (last year). $600 more to get rwc (was probably going to be closer to $1k if i didn't do some work myself)
    4. $40 for full tank (45 lt tank). Barely any servicing, but all self-done. $100 p.a. $200 for third party only.
    5. Faults. Does not have a music player and needs a new radiator soon.
    6. Possibly for a nice go-kart feel + cheap convertible.
    1. 2015 Mazda CX-5 GT
    2. New from dealer
    3. 43k cash
    4. ~$60 for a tank of petrol which gets 550 - 800 km depending on where you're driving. With capped priced serving at present so i think the last service was around $200. Insurance renewal for comprehensive is $1000 but it seems a bit high (might have to look around)
    5. My only fault is the accelerator is making a slight clicking noise when it's pressed. Must be the rubber under it. Hardly a major fault.
    6. I wholeheartedly recommend the car! The entertainment system is great on the new range of Mazda's. It handles well and acceleration is decent. Only wish they'd throw their new CX-9 engine (2.5T) into the CX-5, that'd be so much fun :D
    1. 2015 Hyundai Veloster SR Turbo +
    2. Purchased brand new from a dealer.
    3. Partially financed, all up including interest and fees, $33500.
    4. 8-9L/100km fuel, ~$250 every 6 months for capped price servicing, $90/month insurance (23yo male)
    5. The GPS is slightly bright at night, and the dual clutch auto tends to stick to gears a little.
    6. I'd recommend it. Probably the cheapest way to get that sort of power (150kW). I see better cars out there, but at the price it was between the Veloster and a Mazda 3 SP25 GT.
    • I considered this car awhile back but many swear it's a dangerous lemon: http://www.productreview.com.au/p/hyundai-veloster.html How long have you had yours for? how many Klms are on it out of interest?

      • I got mine in September 2015, and I've now done around 11,500km.

        I haven't had any issues, and I joined a Facebook group with about 500 Veloster owners before purchasing the car to see if there were common problems to worry about - a lot were sold in Australia, and the number with issues wasn't at all different to any other car.

        My only complaints are the two listed in my comment above, with a possible third being that the plastics rattled a little when the car was brand new, but stopped after about 1500km.

        Also, I get comments all the time. Mine is bright yellow, and it's rare for someone to not comment on the car when filling up with petrol, with rare comments when out shopping.

  • Nissan Pulsar 2005
    Local Private Seller
    5000 cash
    1.8 Litre engine so petrol cost is tiny, top up fluids every now and then, havent had an issue in over 3 years
    None, car runs really well
    Definitely, its a cheap sedan with a lot of space, low on fuel, scrubs up pretty good, no major problems, best car I've owned.

    Previously owned a 98 mitsubishi magna, which also was a great car, lots of power and space but guzzled fuel a fair bit.

  • Reading the comments above, it seems BMW has more maintenance than others. I guess BMW guys can afford it.

    1. Ford Focus Sedan 2012 LW MKII Trend 2.0i 125kW 6Sp PowerShift with a convenience pack, was a bit less than 80000 kms on the clock
    2. Bought two weeks ago through a dealer (was someone's trade-in)
    3. $12000 drive-away, cash (transferred the amount to dealer's account)
    4. Just did a 800 km trip with some local driving (Lakes Entrance) and it returned 6.0L/100 km with the average speed 65 km/h. Driving in the city is around 9-10L/100 km (average speed is around 27 km/h). The tank is small (55L) and costs around $45 to refill with ULP. The rego is around $770 in VIC (not due to July), comprehensive insurance costs $55.37 per month (Real Insurance) with $500 excess, agreed value and mileage. Haven't serviced it yet, as it was fully serviced (including all rotors changed) by the dealer. The capped service costs 335$ a year / 15000 km at the Ford dealers, but I'll service it at my local mechanic's place once per a year / 10000 km. I believe it will be the same as other cars at around $150-200 for a minor service.
    5. It's not a conventional auto, need some time to get used to it, can be not smooth in start-stop traffic. The tyres' noise is a bit high, but these are still factory fitted ones Michelin and I'll replace them during next service. Cannot say anything about faults yet (touching the wood) as it's just two weeks of use.
    6. Yes, i'd recommend it. It handles really well (if not the best, then one of the best ones in the class), the engine is punchy, the fuel consumption is very moderate. My sync media system is really smart (the quality of the sound is really average though).

    we took it for my partner instead of saab 9-5 2.3t 2002.
    Ford doesn't have this nice turbo feeling (which saab had), great audio system, leather/electrical seats and the like, but it feels (and yes, it is) much fresher and newer (saab had only 133k on odo and was in great condition for its age), accelerate approximately the same and drinks 2/3 or even less of the saab's consumption (was 9L/100km on highway with a bit of local traffic / 16L/100 km in the city).

  • Nissan Maxima Ti 2002
    Bought it in 2013 sep for $3000 with 300 k and 4 new tyres and 3 months of regeo.

    Changed starter motor in this Jan cost me 350 via racv.
    I have done now 380k. Still feeling happy.

  • Which car do you drive? 1990 Celica GT4
    Bought new or pre-owned/demo? Dealer or private seller? Private
    How much did you pay for the car? Finance or cash? Cash $2,500
    Running costs? Fuel, servicing, insurance Insurance? Not running so its free, had to fill it up to get it home $80 (60 litres?). not insured so dont steal it.
    Faults? Any major problems? Doesnt run, I believe its an AFM problem
    Will you recommend your car? Absolutely, will do it again =)

  • Toyota Aurion ATX 2015
    Brand new, had 6km's on it when i picked it up.
    31k 0% Fiance, From a Toyota dealer
    Running costs? Fuel: Average V6 Cylinder Fuel consumption On a long highway run ive seen it at 6.9l/100k, , Toyota capped at $140, $74 a month for insurance
    I have owned Aurions since 2007, and the only fault I had was the air conditioner stopped working, however as im a tall bloke, I had been kicking the "Servo" and the fault was my fault.
    Definitely have always loved my Aurion's

    • that's a pretty generous deal if toyota offered you a fiance with the car

      • +1

        I'll take the girl from the Ford ads with my new Falcon thanks.

  • 2004 Hyundai Getz 1.5L Manual
    From my father $5000 cash in 2010
    Takes about 38L petrol on "warning light" which costs about $38 ULP91
    Full tank lasts me 1 1/2 weeks in Sydney's M4 traffic.
    Insurance about $500 comprehensive with AAMI, CTP $650. Servicing $500/year
    Timing was replaced in 2010 at 66000km.
    No faults since except now lately, an odd noise in the engine which I guess I must check out soon. It's been perfect mechanically though.

    I would recommend as an economical car that does the job in the city. I have driven this car on 1000km trips and it's "okay" on the freeways but becomes a bit cramped after a while.

    1. Honda Civic Hatch, 2013
    2. Bought new at dealer
    3. 22500 Cash
    4. They now introduced cap service which normally cost $250-$350 for regular service (Note that the service period are 6 months which didn't bother when I finally get to buy a car but if I am buying a new one I would look for a car that wouldn't ask to get the car serviced twice a year). I am protective to my car so I am using V-Power for this guy. Normally $60 full tank. Running at 8.3L/100km. No insurance only third party.
    5. Had no problem. Japanese car are truly reliable.
    6. Yes, if one doesn't care too much about the under-power engine, other than that, the car does everything i need it to. huge cargo space and decent essential equipment. The new Honda civic kept growing on me but the 2013 still looks good for me.
  • I'm surprised not much Toyota owners here. Lots of Honda and Ford

    • I guess I'm surprised too, very reliable cars to own if a tad boring. The wife has a 2014 Toyota Corolla Sports hatchback..unfortunately sports in name only. I have no idea where the 100kw is but even ringing it's neck I struggle to find oomph, especially considering it chews petrol. But at least it is a reliable family car.

      • I really think that part of Toyota's 'reliability' comes from their ridiculously short service intervals. They are in the garage so often they don't have time to develop problems.

        • I agree new Toyota is 1/2 year servicing I think its too regular for service caps

  • 1) VW Touareg V6 TDI MY16 - the worlds most underrated car :)
    2) Demo from dealer
    3) $73k including 5y unlimited km warranty($5k) + towbar($3.5k)
    4) $2k/y for insurance/ctp/rego, caped servicing $600 no fuel cost (company fuel card)
    5) non whatsoever
    6) it's a great truck, my only regret is that I didnt buy V8 ….. Oh well next time

    1. 2015 Holden Captiva 7 LTZ Diesel

    2. New.

    3. $37750 Cash

    4. 7.5l/100km, $400/yr Dealer servicing, $600/yr insurance

    5. The GPS will randomly reboot - possibly due to a loose power connection

    6. Absolutely, it is great to drive.

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