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Meguiar's Ultimate Wash & Wax 1.42L $16.99 (was $32.99) @ Repco 3/1

1150
  • Ultimate Wash & Wax. 1.42L.$16.99
  • NXT Car Wash. 1.89L. $16.99
  • Gold Class Car Wash. 1.89L.$16.99
  • Soft Wash Gel. 1.89L. $16.99

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closed Comments

  • +15

    Nice price.. much cheaper than the last time I bought it. Will have to buy an extra bottle of car wash to bring the avg cost down.

    • +9

      Lol ozbargain mentality

  • +1

    Thanks OP! Going there tomorrow to buy.

    Edit: Deal is until the 15th so probably will delay.

  • +4

    Hands down the best car wash I've used. Might have to stock up on more.

    • -1

      Doesn't mean much if you don't list the others you've used.

      • +1

        Or even easier question, how did you choose between the orange, yellow, pink and purple? Okay I understand the claimed differences between pink and yellow (add wax vs preserve wax). But orange and purple seem to suggest one cleans a WRX and the other a jaguar/bmw.

        • +2

          The colour is meaningless. NXT (purple) is apparently a bit stronger in cleaning than Gold Class (orange). If you don't use a separate wax or sealant, then using Gold Class or Ultimate Wash & Wax would be best.

        • +24

          Let me help

          Gold - use this if you apply paste wax or sealants. It leaves nothing behind that alters the look of your wax

          NXT - similar to gold but has different detergents that breakup dirt better. Better for dirtier cars

          UW&W - doesn't really have wax but glossing agents which leave a just waxed looked. Does add some slight protection. Great for non protected cars or those that need paste wax reapplied soon. Acts like a booster for the wax

          Soft - a good shampoo but consider any of the others above better

          Don't get too bogged down on choosing one. Meguiars make great shampoos and a better choice than other over the counter options

          Hope that helps

        • @4agte: oh really, never knew that. I've always used nxt as I figured it was better,lol, it's just a car wash I figured and just need to shift dirt, didn't want to get overly precious, and recently cause my daughter liked the colour.. but I might give the gold a go for my nxt purchase.

        • +1

          @4agte:
          Great post. Thanks for the info.

        • +2

          @trippyfoo:

          No problem. Always happy to help with detailing. Each of their car washes just have slightly different properties. Some have glossing agents (referred to as wax), some have sheeting properties (water rinses off easier), some have more liquidity (less liklihood of scratching/marring), some have heavier detergents (I don't need to explain this one :D )

          I have no less than 10 car washes at home and when I need to wash my car I often just pick up the one based on its nice fragrance. As long as you're using a quality wash you are looking after your paints clear coat

        • @4agte: lol.. slightly OCD there.. ten.. and not less than ten. So at some stage you may have had more.. like 15?

        • +2

          @trippyfoo:

          yeah just slightly OCD haha

          Including rinseless and waterless washes I sadly have more than 15. I love comparing products but slowly cutting back to my favourites as I run out of things.

        • @4agte:

          Nice description!

          Then I'm left with still choosing:

          Issue is 2 cars.

          Mine is silver with full sealant and PPF (paint protection film)
          Wife's is full black needing detail and wax!

        • @GLO:

          I recommend you just go for the UW&W. Your wife's car will get some much needed protection until it it is detailed. While it will still be a a good wash for your car. As you would expect the glossing agents won't interfere with your paint protection. In fact your paint protection may not even allow it to bond.

        • @4agte:

          Thanks Mate!

          Do any of these attract insects?

          After having sealant applied, I've noticed many more insects are attracted to the paint???

        • @GLO:

          When applying a true wax I have sometimes found bees hanging around the paint. I believed they may have been attracted to the carnauba in the wax. Maybe there is something in the sealant they like. A sealant as opposed to a wax is man-made and generally won't contain any carnauba,just polymers

        • @4agte:

          makes sense, some car waxes are made up of different formulations of waxes, including carnauba, beeswax, etc, so maybe its the beeswax that's attracting the bees?

    • +1

      My favourite over the counter wash but not my outright. Meguiar's is definitely better than any Mother's or Bowden Owns offerings. This is a great price and will pick up some Meg UW&W. Thanks op

      My favourite washes in no particular order:
      Dodo Juice Born to be Mild
      Dodo Juice Sour Power
      Duragloss 901
      Meguiars Hyper Wash
      Optimum Car Wash
      Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo
      Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss

      • Try the 3D line of products. Excellent polishes and washes and very cheap in comparison to Dodo and Swissvax and other similar brands.
        I bought 4L of the Pink Car Soap 2 years ago and still have some left.
        http://detailcentral.com.au/3d-pink-car-soap/

        • Thanks for the suggestion. I have tried a number of 3D products and I like most of them

          50 to 1 glass cleaner - was good but Megs Detailer range is better and works out about to be approximately the same price

          Final Touch - a great quick detailer but I just use waterless washes in their place now

          Carpet Extractor Shampoo - not cracked the lid on this. Still working through previous products

          Towel clean - this stuff is great

          Magic Blue - works well but solvent based dressings aren't for me. Prefer the water based dressings which are safer and look better.

          Odor Eliminator - don't feel as though it had any odor removing properties at all. Just masked the smell. Did like it as an air freshener though

          HD Total- smells like cheap cologne and is extremely overpriced. Have a gallon just sitting here. Consider it my most regretful purchase. I will pick up Ultima Waterless Wash or Wolfgang Uber Rinseless wash (at waterless dilution) everytime over HD total. It's cheaper, works better and didn't smell like a 15yo who got his 1st Brut gift pack for Xmas

          Pink car soap - no complaints except the poor dilution which hurts its value. Not that it is bad value. If I could pick it up I'd probably buy it again but need to account for shipping. It has a 128:1 dilution. Most of my other shampoos have much better solutions (see below). It looks it has also dropped in price since I bought it which is great news. Not that it was ever considered expensive

          Eg.
          DJ Sour Power/Born to be Mild/Supernatural 600/800/1500:1
          Optimum 256:1
          Megs Hyper Wash 400:1
          Duragloss 384:1
          Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss 512:1

          From memory 3D products have some kind of association to Autopia. Not sure if that is still the case as someone of importance left that company recently

        • +1

          @4agte:

          Cheers for the summary. A mate at work talk Duragloss up, particularly their sealant. Will try it when I run out of my HD Poxy.

    • Have you tried Autoglym? I was thinking to switch to.Meguiars. Autoglym is too expensive

      • I've used some Autoglym products (but not there washes) but you are right they are far too expensive. They are ok but putting something in a premium bottle doesn't make it a premium product. I would pick up any Meguiars product before Autoglym

      • +1

        Recently got some autoglym products at 25% off - so I gave it a try. I still think Meguirs is much better value for money. I love the wash and wax, and usually I use a bowden's "drop bear" cloth with a cheap ($8 bottle) turtle wax - Wax as you dry product - while drying. Overall, I get quite a glossy finish and the car beads very well.

        https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/96108568/DSC09540.JPG - Meguires Result.

        The Autoglym products didn't give any improvements. I bought their regular shampoo and used the 'aqua wax' as I dried. Overpaid for the products and got the same result.

  • +3

    The coolant concentrate for $22 is also a helluva deal. Thats like half price I think
    http://catalogues.repco.com.au/catalogue/diy-deals/5935dusy9…

    Also these gloves. I checked three days ago and they were $5 a pack
    http://catalogues.repco.com.au/catalogue/diy-deals/5935dusy9…

    • Thx for the gloves link. off to buy a few packs today.

  • -5

    Cannot believe how expensive car wash detergent it. I just use morning fresh 1/2 price at woolies, car come out clean with a great 'lemon' fresh scent.

    • +10

      then you really won't believe how expensive a respray of your car will be lol

      • +1

        Probably trolling.

        • +2

          sadly, there are people who actually think dish detergent is perfectly fine i.e. my mother.

        • @tdw: If it's good enough for me to eat off, it is good enough to the car. That said, it is a good detergent to use for those who need a clean base for clay bar or sealing the paint.

      • never needed to spray a car, no point.

        • +1

          how long have you been using morning fresh?
          IT WILL erode your paint and metal EVENTUALLY!
          Do whatever you like, LOL…

        • +1

          @Jamesx: come on? errod the metal? if anyone can find a story or proof about morning fresh or any other dishwashing liquid doing the sort of damage i would be interested in reading it. LOL

    • Nothing particularly wrong with using an appropriate dishwashing detergent as long as it is reasonably close to ph neutral. Whether it will strip away some wax or sealant is a matter you might not care about though.

      • I always wondered if I washed the car with dish detergent, then apply cheap brand wax after, shouldn't it be fine? Unless there's other risks to the paintwork?

        • It mostly depends on the ph level of the detergent. If I had to use dishwashing detergent, then I'd be rinsing it very well and not let any suds dry on the paint. Waxing afterwards would be a necessity in my opinion, even using a spray sealant would be fine.

        • +3

          what people also don't consider is the harm to the rubber seals on your car. so while you should be regularly treating the rubber, you shouldn't need to do it every time you wash your car.

        • +1

          @tdw: uh, Tbh I've never treated the car seals before =/ guess I should start…

        • +4

          @tdw:

          Great advice. Dishwashing liquid does dry out seals and rubbers. I can't believe people think it is suitable just on ph level

          "Hey, rub this onto your skin"
          "Why? What is it?"
          "Don't worry it's ph neutral"

        • @4agte: can anyone confirm Maguires is pH neutral? would be interesting to know from an enthusiast. Hope its not another RIBENA scandel. http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/nsw/no-vitamin-c-in-ri…
          Everyone believes the marketing, nobody bothered to check the claims.

        • +1

          @tonsta:

          Yes they are ph neutral. It isn't hard to do a ph test and they would have been sprung out by one of the Autogeek enthusiast if they weren't. So much independant testing occurs on that site

        • @4agte: wouldn't a simple litmus paper strip tell you?

        • @tonsta:

          most definitely

    • +2

      You use less than $1 of shampoo when washing a car. Dishwashing detergent is harsh. It's designed to break up heavy grease in pots and pains. Overtime it dries out and penetrates your clear coat. It also leaves behind a horrible film over the clear coat which dulls the paints clarity and glossiness. Destroying clear coat to save a few dollars will cost you much more over time. The typical sprayer charges $300 a panel for a respray

    • +2

      It's actually quite good - but it strips the car of any protectants and sealants. I guess if you use it with a 'spray wax' while you dry - it's not a bad option.

      But I would like to point out, doesn't 'sud' as well as carwash detergents - which means, you're more likely to form micro scratches on the car while using your wash mit. (These are very visible in afternoon sunlight).

      If all of this doesn't matter to you - then keep going with your recipe. For a lot of people, they can spend hours on weekends washing their car and it is therapeutic for the owners. So, having the 'best products' is quite handy for these type of people.

      • -2

        im sure some of the products are great, i dont see the sense in spending money on cars thats worth the same regardless how great you took care of it.

        Case in point, after 5 years owning a new car and selling after the lease ended, dealer would pay $5,000 for the thing, I said it had this and that and the other, they said remove them and replace it with standard gear and we will give you the same.

        People just do it for the love i guess, not the logic. All the fancy marketing about how it protects paint etc, i have not seen any proof. I wash the thing in morning fresh then hose it down every 2 weeks or so for 5 years, paint doesn't look any different to the inside of the doors, which never get washed and always clean anyway.

        • +2

          i dont see the sense in spending money on cars thats worth the same regardless how great you took care of it.

          no no no, just wrong. So you want to buy a 2nd hand car. One looks like it rolled off the factory floor. The other has clear coat issues from never being waxed, bird droppings and industrial fallout out. These two cars are not going to sell for the same price

          All the fancy marketing about how it protects paint etc, i have not seen any proof

          How would you know. You use crap products and sorry it doesn't sound like you have any clue or experience in detailing or paint.

        • -1

          @4agte: "no no no, just wrong. So you want to buy a 2nd hand car. One looks like it rolled off the factory floor. The other has clear coat issues from never being waxed, bird droppings and industrial fallout out. These two cars are not going to sell for the same price"

          My story was me selling the crap car, got the same price regardless how well it was looked after, rolling of the cliff is different to bad paint. bad paint, still drives well LOL.

      • -4

        I dont worry about wash mitt.. im using an Oates floor broom to do the job. saves alot of time with the long handle.

        • Good lord.

        • +3

          Guys, he's just trolling.
          No sense in going any further with this

  • I inherited my old man's 2005 Holden VZ Wagon, it's in good condition but the paint has swirl marks and I want to get it into good condition. I bought a buffing machine as well from Supercheap but need to know what's a good routine and what products do I need to get the paint into better shape.

    • Autoglym have some products that will do the job

      contact their office on this link

      http://www.autoglym.com.au/contact--2

      Mitch

      • I just need tips on what I should buy eg

        Car wash then what comes next to get rid of the swirls then what do I put as a treatment on top isn't it that simple?

        • -1

          You never heard of Google or YouTube?

        • @mcor82:

          I need aussie

        • @eneloop:

          Append the following to your Google search query:

          site:*.au

          Also browse Detail Paradise (main AU detailing forum) but make sure not to post any new threads without having first made sure that your questions haven't been answered in other threads (forums tend to become too bloated for their own good over time due to lack of enforcement against duplication and redundancy).

    • +1

      Megiuars ultimate compound, if you never buffed before use slow speed, use a sprayer with water and spray every couple seconds while buffing to keep things cool.

      Take your time also don't rush things or you'll make things worse, don't hit any black plastics etc. Very light buff on edges or you'll take the paint off. Best to watch a YouTube tut

      • +7

        Meguiars make great over the counter compounds and polishes. The compound isn't too aggressive so the average user won't destroy their clear coat

        However don't slow down the machine. Use it on the correct setting. Use a dual action polisher. The oscillation and throw is designed to safely correct a car. Leave rotary machines in the hands of professionals.

        Watch some videos on YouTube of a trusted detailer. Eg. Ammo NYC

        Jump on a forum. Detailing Paradise is Australian but isn't very active. So check out Autogeeks forums instead

        • +1 to info. I said for him to use slow setting as I'm sure his using a rotary buffer as there cheaper.

          Most people won't spend the amount that da's are going for.

          Autogeek is the best site IMO regarding detailing, plus they sell products and have informative reviews on most detailing products.

        • @bti_jet:

          No problem. Definitely a good recommendation. I'm far too nervous to use a rotary

    • +1

      You can either take it to a professional or do it yourself. If DIY, then you'd need to do some research and buy the products like clay, pads, cloths, compound, polish, cleanser, wax/sealant. Asking for detailed information in a bargain comments section isn't the best way to go about this IMO.

    • +1

      I would probably take it to a reputable pro - pay the $200-300 for the paint correction.

      Then from there onwards, regularly (once a month at minimum) wash my car myself with: 1 good wash mit, any of the above washing liquid(meguires), 1 good drying cloth (bowdens drop bear), and one 'quick detailer' from meguires (generally $15). This should be all you need to keep the car in A1 condition from here on out.

      If you try do it yourself, you can potentially damage things, and at the same time, by the time you buy all the products - you'll be close to paying $200+, and get a result you're not happy with.

      • Thanks for the advice. Do you know any good detailer in Sydney?

        • I don't sorry. I only know of people in Brisbane. I'm sure if you start a forum post - someone will answer regarding a reputable professional detailer in sydney.

      • +1

        It's absolutely CRUCIAL you utilise the 'two bucket' method if you want to reduce the inevitable marring that results from any contact with car paint. One for washing, one for rinsing. Otherwise the second and subsequent uses of the wash mitt during a given wash will involve grinding debris into the paint. Adding grit guards is even better.

    • Sorry back again. Just discovered the compound and polish I recommended is on special - https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/285592

  • +1

    Great price on ultimate wash, spewing I paid extra $3 few weeks ago

    • If you're a club member you can get the difference refunded with their price guarantee. Oh wait this is repco not supercheap… :(

  • I love how much effort Meg's goes to clearly differentiate their car wash range for consumers (which is to say, not at all). If they weren't so damn good I'd say boycott them for laziness. Anecdotally, they can be considered the following way:

    GC: most popular. Slickest.

    NXT: strongest. Made for hard water systems, specifically in US.

    WW: leaves small film of wax. Probably effective for a few days to a week; Meg's appears too lazy to reveal any longevity testing.

    Soft wash: considered the best of the bunch. Usually the most expensive. Seems to be new to AU market but has been around a while in the US.

    All, of course, are pH-neutral (wax-friendly).

    • +1

      Most of that is correct

      Soft Wash - has been around for over 20 years in Australia. I bought my first bottle as a teenager in 1996. It is actually the considered the inferior of all those washes. However, it mostly comes down to personal opinion.

      UW&W - it doesn't contain any true wax. Just man-made polymers or also known as glossing agents. Durability is considered to be 1-2 weeks. The durability is considered to be enough to get between washes or until you have time to lay a true protectant

      • +1

        Ah, thanks for that. I was certainly mislead then from some Autopia threads.

        Do you know how long the respective washes last before they expire or go off? I've still got five shampoo bottles lying around and don't think I'll get around to finishing them all for about 9 months.

        • As long as you keep car shampoos out of extreme weather conditions then they should last for years and years. Eg. a garden shed which may boil or freeze them at any given the time of the year.

          Not saying they can't survive in hot or cold weather, just the extremes of both. I still have half a bottle of Soft Wash I bought 7 years ago. Absolutely no issues with it at all.

          Autopia forums are generally pretty good. However, check out their sister site Autogeek. IMO I find better information on there

  • Sounds like we need a specific recommended retail available car care accessories thread.
    Autoglym - UK
    Bowdens - Aussie
    Meguiars - Murica

    I've had Bowdens except for a few items recommended to me in store from an Autocheap staff member that actually tests out items.

  • just bought the last two UW&W at Footscray(VIC), no stock still next week.

    Wish they had more as I usually go through two-three bottles a year washing our two cars at home.

    • how often are you washing the cars and how much detergent are you using per wash?

      • fortnightly, 2 cap fulls per wash (per car)

        • +1

          Maybe I should wash my car more frequently :D

          They always say 2 cap fulls, but it doesn't have a cap! I'm sure I use way more than 2 cap fulls.

        • +1

          @JB1:

          It has a dilution ratio of 128:1. So 128 parts water to 1 part soap. I don't think this is mentioned on the bottle at all.

          To help you with dilution calculations I'll use 10L of water for an example

          10L = 10000ml
          We have 129 part (128 water, 1 soap)

          10000 ÷ 129 = 77.5mls

          Therefore you need 77.5mls of soap per 10L of water

          Dilution ratios isn't an exact science due to different water hardness. People adjust this amount up or down but the correct dilution is a good place to start

          You should be washing your car no more than once a week. I usually wash mine once a fortnight as well

        • +1

          @4agte:

          I usually use about 5L of water in the mix and the 2 bucket method.

          'You should be washing your car no more than once a week.' Don't worry, there will be no risk of that :D

        • @JB1:

          Haha don't worry I'm the same.

          I do some detailing and sell some supplies as a side business. But even mum puts me to shame since she got her new car. She always rocks up in a nice clean car and parks nexts to my filthy daily. It's a little embarrassing

        • @4agte:

          It's a bit like a carpenter's own house. Most always have a half completed job here or there.

          If you're detailing other people's car throughout the week, you can't be bothered cleaning your own car, unless it's used to advertise your services.

  • +5

    Just a heads up for those who don't have a Repco close by or if Repco is out of stock, I went to my closest Supercheap and they beat the prices by $1 and I used my store credit as well.

    I also did the right thing by others and bought 5 Gold Wash and 6 W&W so hopefully this will make Supercheap lower their prices as well now

  • +1

    Supercheapauto, just price matched Meguiar's Ultimate Wash's Repco's special price.

    http://imgur.com/a/57c2a

  • +1

    Bringing my wrx home from getting it paint protected today and will drop by to buy these too and some other car wash equipment. Can't wait :)

  • +1

    If anyone is looking for Ultimate Wax, I found a pretty decent price for it :

    https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/meguiars-g18216

  • +2

    I just bought 20 bottles from super cheap auto for $20.99 two weeks ago…thinking it was an unbeatable price :(

    • +2

      All hail the carwashking. Obviously you can't be bargainking and carwashking at the same time…

      • now i know, will never pay over 16.99

        • +2

          just looked a my receipt - Total Savings $235 for 26 items and yet still got ozbargained by repco

    • Can not you return them and get a refund?

      • +2

        of course you can return them but i bought it as a early christmas gift to myself..that emotional attachment

    • Can't you buy like 20L drums if you run a carwash business?

      • Sure can. Bulk chemicals often work out better for those who have a bunch of friends who are also using the same product. Keep the bottles and top up for a small fee.

      • Autosmart

      • While you can your options are limited. Eg. For Meguiar's Australia only sell their Hyper Wash in the larger 5 gallon size.

        He probably prefers his purchase over the bulk options and more convenient having lots of small containers than 1 massive one

  • Does anyone know if ArmorAll's current range includes salts (a big no-no, for obvious reasons) to promote foaming (which many people erroneously equate with cleaning strength)?

    It's just assumed within the detailing community that no self-respecting car enthusiast should use such products, but I can't tell whether it's just brand snobbery or not.

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