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PlastiDip Clear, Blaze Colours, Metalizers and Plast Dip Primer $5 @ Caswell Plating

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Due to the overwhelming support we received from members of ozbargin, we (Caswell Australia) have decided to expand the $5 Plasti Dip range to include Metalizers, Primer and clear. Don't worry the vibrant fluro Blaze colours are still $5.

This is a massive 80% off our normal price and $24.99 cheaper than Autobarn or other online retailers.

Plasti Dip Spray On Coating
Coat anything with a flexible rubber coating.

• Flexible - won't crack, chip or become brittle.
• Insulates from electrical shock, vibration, heat and deadens sound.
• Provides safe, non-slip comfort and control.
• Durable - resists weather, chemicals, impact and abrasion.
• Covers approx 5-10 sq ft

11oz can (311ml)

“Plasti Dip Blaze is a unique collection of neon Plasti Dip colours that deliver eye-catching looks for any application. Use Plasti Dip Blaze anywhere you need >bright, easy to see colours—you can use it to improve visibility for safety concerns, to add can’t-miss colour to frequently misplaced items, or for a one-of-a-kind look on almost any do-it-yourself project.”

Postage is $15 for most metro locations regardless of how many hundred cans you buy. We have to use a courier to ship aerosols as they are defined as a dangerous good according to the transport code. For this reason we can not ship via Australia Post. Being a courier some areas outside of metro locations can cost a bit more, full postage calculators are available on our website.

Related Stores

caswellplating.com.au
caswellplating.com.au

closed Comments

        • +3

          the excess spray is a pain if you dont get to it early, imn the past i sprayed over it to create a larger peelable area which made it easy to remove, but it did waste time and a can in the process. Was just happy it wasnt permant paint and i was able top get it off. The Armorall product is the same as plastidip just a different label.

        • You could mask beforehand by rubbing Vaseline all over the car in those areas that you didn't want the rubberised coating to adhere to.

          That method stops burnout rubber sticking to wheel wheels and 1/4 panels, so I am sure it'll work great for Plastidip.

          Of course the more logical (and heaps easier) solution is to mask it off with tape and paper, just like you'd do for any other spray painting project.

        • @llama: I don't think you read my post properly. Masking/jellying areas would not have helped removal.

        • @eug:

          I don't think you read my post properly

          Yes I did, and in particular on the "overspray" comment, especially after you made a mess of everything with the pressure sprayer.

          You certainly could have masked or protected your car before focussing the pressure washer towards the previously uncoated areas of the car, and thus covering them with particles.

          Your poor experience with removal was caused by 2 things. Firstly, you might have been too scabby, so the plasticoat was too thin to grab onto and remove in one chunk.

          But far more likely you didn't mask off to define the car bra area, and hence ended up with a vast feathered-off area that blended into your surrounding paint.

          Masking/jellying areas would not have helped removal.

          It certainly would, because then you would have had a thickly coated, clearly defined edge all the way around the plasticoat. Hence, when removing you would peel it off from that edge, rather than randomly starting in the middle and working outwards to increasingly thinly coated surfaces.

          Make sense?

        • -1

          @llama:

          You certainly could have masked or protected your car before focussing the pressure washer towards the previously uncoated areas of the car, and thus covering them with particles.

          In your first reply you specifically talk about masking with Vaseline or tape/paper in relation to application of Plasti Dip, hence your reference to "any other spray painting project".

          And now in your second reply, you're talking about masking during removal, which you never made reference to previously. Did you just see the word "overspray" in my post and assume I was talking about application?

          In my post I was specifically talking about removal of thin layers. Masking is a very inefficient way to do it. Remember that I said the bug and tar remover softens the coating. If I had noticed the overspray before the next morning, I could have just rinsed/washed it off as the bits wouldn't have re-hardened yet.

          Masking 90% of the car to remove plasti dip on 10% of the car is like putting on a water-tight suit in the shower so you can rinse shampoo out of your hair without getting shampoo on your body. It makes more sense to just rinse your whole body.

          Firstly, you might have been too scabby, so the plasticoat was too thin to grab onto and remove in one chunk.

          Note how I specifically said "thin areas" in my second sentence. That was definitely the reason.

          Make sense?

        • @eug:

          And now in your second reply, you're talking about masking during removal, which you never made reference to previously.

          Sorry I didn't make it clearer for you the first time. Really it was only ever intended as a general comment, pretty much stating the obvious that it's common sense to protect surrounding areas from overspray.

          Did you just see the word "overspray" in my post and assume I was talking about application?

          Of course not - you said the overspray came from your pressure washer. I guess I was being somewhat flippant when I said that masking or smearing Vaseline might have protected your car from having horrid sticky gunk blown all over it. However I will concede that an old blanket, towel or tarpaulin might have protected it even better.

          In my post I was specifically talking about removal of thin layers. Masking is a very inefficient way to do it.

          In my post I was specifically talking about ways of protecting a vehicle from an owner's very inefficient way to remove thin layers of rubberised coating from a small area of their car. More specifically, protection from an owner who decides to use a pressure blaster to convert the foreign material into small sticky particles, and directs the water pressure towards the vehicle in such a way that projects the particles all over the (previously clean) remainder of the bodywork… and then not rinsing the mess off.

          If you think my ideas are so dumb, I welcome your suggestion of a better way to protect a car under those circumstances.

          Masking 90% of the car to remove plasti dip on 10% of the car is like putting on a water-tight suit in the shower so you can rinse shampoo out of your hair without getting shampoo on your body. It makes more sense to just rinse your whole body.

          Well, when cleaning yukky material from 10% of your body, it makes more sense to just rinse it OFF your whole body, rather than splattering it all over the remaining 90% that was previously clean. :-)

        • -1

          @llama:

          Summary:

          • I posted a comment saying it's difficult to remove thin layers, and mentioned that I didn't rinse off the overspray from the pressure washer.

          • You reply to that comment talking about masking the car during application.

          • I reply saying that would not have helped removal.

          • You start getting narky with phrases like "…especially after you made a mess of everything", "…you might have been too scabby", and "Make sense?". You then start talking as if you were always referring to the removal process, by saying I could have masked my car during the removal process.

          You then edited your comment and added "… far more likely I didn't mask off to define the area… ended up with a vast feathered-off area that blended into your surrounding paint". I have no idea how you plucked that out of thin air - the little bits were from the pressure washer, not a "vast feathered-off area" from application. I masked the car with tape and plastic, the application was perfect (apart from the thin sections which I mentioned). I was talking about removal, yet once again you talk about application.

          • I reply saying that ….

          …. who cares. It really does seem like you originally thought I was talking about application, hence your multiple references to the application process, but just don't want to admit it.

          Your ideas are all perfect and clever and are the best way to do whatever it is you want to do. Everyone else is definitely wrong - I agree 100%. Next time you remove Plasti Dip from a car bra, you should mask the entire rest of the car first, instead of just rinsing the car thoroughly.

          Have a nice day!

        • @eug:

          It really does seem like you originally thought I was talking about application, hence your multiple references to the application process, but just don't want to admit it.

          Nope, and I have no idea why you might think that.

          I am glad we agree that masking helps to protect against overspray created during application. Not sure why we can't agree that masking protects equally well against overspray created during removal.

          Next time you remove Plasti Dip from a car bra, you should mask the entire rest of the car first

          Well, when you say it like that it seems like a inferior solution.

          Next time you (use a pressure washer to) remove Plasti Dip from a car bra, simply blast it OFF the car, not onto it.

        • -1

          @llama:

          Nope, and I have no idea why you might think that.

          Because you keep referring to the application process in all your replies, when my comment had nothing to do with the application process.

          Not sure why we can't agree that masking protects equally well against overspray created during removal.

          Sure it will, just like how you can rinse your hair in the shower by wrapping your body in a waterproof membrane first.

          Or, just rinse your whole body.

          Next time you (use a pressure washer to) remove Plasti Dip from a car bra, simply blast it OFF the car, not onto it.

          Hindsight is amazing isn't it? I guess you've never made a mistake in your life, ever? :)

        • -1

          @eug:

          Because you keep referring to the application process in all your replies, when my comment had nothing to do with the application process.

          Ummm well OK, if you say so.

          ٩(◕‸◕。)۶ (backs away slowly)

        • @llama: Great response! applauds

    • +3

      Even better prank is someone swapping the plastidip cans you intend to use with real automotive spray paint, and swapping the labels over so you think you're spraying plastidip but in fact you are spraying paint.

      And then when you try to peel it off…

      • +2

        the really funny prank is when the car owner punches you in the face.

  • Does the primer leave a residue when you peel the Plastidip off?

    • No it comes of clean just like regular plastidip but takes a bit more effort.

  • +5

    Plus-voting due to Associated OP's sensible, attentive replies.

  • +1

    Free upvote from me, last deal i ordered a decent chuck, was delivered super quick!

    Haven't even touched the last lot, but might order some clear and metallic cos bargain!

  • +4

    For some reason I thought you guys are selling that $5 note, and it comes with a whole lot of humble jumbo,such as

    • Flexible - won't crack, chip or become brittle.
    • Insulates from electrical shock, vibration, heat and deadens sound.
    • Provides safe, non-slip comfort and control.
    • Durable - resists weather, chemicals, impact and abrasion.

    Im thinking, woa it must be a very special $5 note

    • +4

      No. but it is an intresting point a regular $5 will do as you stated. We can sell you a genuine used one for $10 if your intrested?

      • Nah if I buy that $10 of you, I got to get off ozbargain site. Too much to lose :)

  • IS there an expiry/best before on the cans? Thinking of stocking up on some :)

    • +1

      No expiry date, we had received some very old stock cans from a retailer that went out of business, they were the old yellow label, we didnt sellt hem but used them to experiment with. they all worked without issue. Both in spraying and peeling.

  • Has anyone tried these on car bumpers? More specifically, I'm thinking on the top surface of a rear bumper, for protection against bumps and scratches when loading/unloading the boot.

    • +1

      Plasticoat isn't particularly durable - it's designed to be easily removed.

      What you want is a skin or film.

      http://solutions.3m.com.au/wps/portal/3M/en_AU/Scotchgard_Pa…

      Heaps of cheapo copies available cheaply in rolls from Ebay, Aliexpress, etc.

      Basically, it's vehicle wrap that doesn't have any colour.

  • Cosplayers: here's your chance for a bargain! :D

  • +1

    @caswellaustralia - FYI - Your t&c still has your Christmas message displaying.

    Why did i just buy another 37 cans of dips. :(

    • Thank you !!!

  • +1

    The orange colour looks good when applied to a sports bike.

  • @caswellaustralia Hi, Do you have a similar product to the pro-line products offered by dyc…

    • +1

      No sorry DYC refused to sell to us when we appoached them a few years back. We do have some big 3.78L tins of liquid plastic dip but no the proline range.

  • Nice!

  • Where can i get a $5 like that?

    • Printer tray?

  • Planning to plastidip my commuter push bike…
    It's alloy so I was wondering if applying primer would add to it's longevity?
    Would it make it harder to remove?

    • +1

      Primer does make it harder to remove but it's still removable. That's the point of the primer it increases the "longevity"

      • Ta…
        If I have a shiny red helmet and want to make it look a bit matte, would a few layers of clear plastidip do the trick?

        • +1

          Yes it will reduce the gloss and make it more matte

        • @CaswellAustralia: bought a few… Thanks…

  • Anyone living in brisbane wanna share the shipping cost?

    • Where were you this morning? :(

      • working :(

    • Possibly, where do you live?

      • see comment below.

    • Keen. PM not playing ball here, can you please initiate?

      • Chermside here and work in the city…

        • Yeronga. I move around for work on week to week. We'll need to get a final number and how we're going to pick it up?

      • Don't mind ordering if you guys wanna pick up at my place. Gotta be after working hours or weekend though.

        • Hi mate, I'm interested but can't PM you for some reason. I'm Taigum area.

  • Can't find white or white metallic? Are they offered?

    • There is no such thing as a metalic white flake in the aerosols. White is on the website under aerosol plasti dip color selection $20 a can. There is a pearlizer that turns the white into a sparkly pearl look alternatively a few coats of silver metalizer over it looks good.

  • +1

    When you do a deal/post on the black, I hope you have a pallet load as looks like that will sell like hotcakes, just saying :)

    • +1

      We have gone through a few pallets in the last 24 hours. Granted they are mixed. We ship a pallet of black a month as is I don't think we will ever list that one below cost. The boss would have a heart attack.

      • +1

        yep, the power of ozbargain! Has been known to crash websites, lol… I am not suggesting/expecting below cost, maybe a multi-buy deal though.

  • Could you spray this stuff on a rusty trailer, or would it have trouble sticking to the rust?

    • Sticks to the rust well. But the abuse a trailer. Ops it peels off from friction. Use a rust stopper paint as an undercoat and then any cheap paint over the top. For a professional look finish we have both rust stopper and metalspecs paint in Stock.

  • +1

    How many cans would you recommend for an entire small car ? (Honda jazz)

    Edit - just did some lmgtfy and its around 30 cans..

    • +3

      Don't use aerosol cans to paint a wholé car. You will never be happy with the finish I've seen it done to many times and it looks crap. Buy the gallon tins a HELP sprayer and do it properly.

  • +1

    Doing research to find the answers to the following, but if anyone has the knowledges, please do share:

    • Any legal issues with recolouring your car and it no longer matching the colour on your rego?
    • Do multiple colours blend like spray paint (can you do a gradient effect)?
    • Does an enhancer (metalizer, etc.) applied to a clear coat on a black painted surface look the same as when it's applied to black dip?
    • Can dip be applied to spraypainted metal/plastic?
    • Does the clear dip get cloudy with age? Could it be applied to headlights and side mirrors?
    • What's the best way to stick down a complex template?
    • Any legal issues with recolouring your car and it no longer matching the colour on your rego?
      Yes all state road / transit authorities must be notified of a vehicle change of colour.

      Do multiple colours blend like spray paint (can you do a gradient effect)?
      No whilst the dip melts into the other layers you get a spkled effect from the spray, our facebook page has some rifles done in multiple camo colours no masking or blending.

      Does an enhancer (metalizer, etc.) applied to a clear coat on a black painted surface look the same as when it's applied to black dip?
      Yes but the metalizers are thinner and peel easier if they don't blend into a plastidip base. We used black painted surfaces to demonstrate the effects in our show room.

      Can dip be applied to spray painted metal/plastic?
      Yes and no. Make sure it is 100% dry some cheaper paints react and bubble as the plasti dip has a thinners in it to make it spray we have only found this to be an issue when applying over freshly sprayed cheaper non cured paints.

      Does the clear dip get cloudy with age? Could it be applied to headlights and side mirrors?
      It is clear but not crystal clear it will create a slightly frosted look on glass, the more you apply the more frosted it becomes. Over headlights this isn't an issue but would not use it on mirrors.

      What's the best way to stick down a complex template?
      I personally use bluetac over a dried dipped surface, take the template off as soon as possible (when its wet) because the dip will seal when it dries over the surface and template and peel it off.

  • Awesome - thanks for that.

    Yes but the metalizers are thinner and peel easier if they don't blend into a plastidip base. We used black painted surfaces to demonstrate the effects in our show room.

    Cool - meant to say applied to a clear plastidip base (rather than a traditional clear coat).

    I personally use bluetac

    Interesting. Any issues with edge bleed? I've found it's hard to get Bluetac thin and still have it stick. Would something like Vaseline work for really thin, fluttery paper templates? Found this high-detailed work, but they didn't specify their method.

  • My package arrived today. Awesome!

  • Thanks OP, ordered 18 cans, saved $360!

  • Any update on shipping rep?

  • Hi Op,

    I'm wondering if the clear version of this could be used to temporarily seal the gaps around my old wooden double hung windows (painted white)?

    I've got issues with ants and small flying insects coming into my house through the gaps around the windows, and was considering using silicone to seal around them but that isn't easy to get back off.

    Would the liquid clear plastidip work for this? I'm assuming the spray would make a mess, and I want something that can be taken off easily as occasionally we will want to open some of the windows.

    I'd also like to use it to seal around my flyscreens (again gaps between the aluminium frames and the windows)

    Thanks

    • I've got issues with ants and small flying insects coming into my house through the gaps around the windows,

      Would weather stripping work better for you?

      • Unfortunately not. The gaps aren't that big and are patchy (e.g. not a consistent gap due to warping of the windows), prob only 1mm in places but big enough for an ant to get through…

        I was hoping to put the plastidip on the side along the join between the window & the frame to seal it up.

        • Not even on the face that's facing outwards?

        • @eug:

          They're the old double hung windows which slide up and down. I also need to seal the gap between the two sliding windows…

          I've put some of the weatherseals on my flyscreens before in several directions and could never get it to work that well. Need something that will seal a small and variable gap…This stuff seems great if it can easily be peeled off. Was considering silicone otherwise but that'd be a bit too permanent

  • Thanks Op,

    Speedy shipping and great customer service from Paul.

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