Still cheaper to do your own oil change?

ycon on 06/04/2017 - 21:07
Last edited 10/04/2017 - 09:28

Hi all,

First time car owner, and my car is due for an oil change.

Process seems simple, it's an older 2002 bmw x5 3.0i petrol.

However, a visit to Super cheap auto was surprising.

For the change, I need a 17mm Socket, and 36mm oil socket

Total cost:
Tool kit (1/2" rachet, 17mm socket & lots more) - $88
Oil socket 36mm- $29
Oil filter -$30
Oil (synthetic - 5w 40). 6.5 litres required - $130

Total : $277

I haven't enquired about a service, but $277 is a lot of money considering I'm going all the work.

Any recommendations for doing it cheaper? Or recommendations on mechanics that do it for that price or less?

UPDATE:

Thanks to this thread

Socket kit (3/8" rachet)- Bunnings - $9
17mm socket - Bunnings- $7.50
Oil socket 36mm- eBay- $4.50
Oil filter - AutoCollective- $20
Oil (synthetic - 5w 40) 10 Litres - Autobarn - $74

Total: $115

Automotive

Comments

    • backpaqer on 07/04/2017 - 13:20

      Nylon —-> Nulon

    • smpantsonfire on 07/04/2017 - 17:47

      BMW actually have a proper filter housing, so you cannot do this on a BMW filter. Ideally you need the 36mm socket, or some good clamps.

  • High on 07/04/2017 - 14:00

    Filters ~ genuine filters can be cheaper than auto shops. Make an enquiry at your local BMW, ask for parts department and have your VIN number handy. Surprising, but filter for my car was actually cheaper at my local dealership.

  • Abaddon on 07/04/2017 - 14:22
    +1

    I have two different oil filter wrenches, but find them awkward to use (not enough space, PITA filter is above the transmission on the back of a front wheel drive 4cyl).

    So I bought something which looks the same as this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Jar-Opener-Multi-Purpose-Jar-Lids…), couldn't be simpler and works a treat (even when things are more oily than they should be).

    For ~$5 I definitely recommend it

    • Euphemistic on 07/04/2017 - 15:58

      sometimes you can use a bit of sandpaper to grip the filter with your hands to remove it, but it depends on space. Old cars tend to be easier for this, there was less stuff in the engine bay.

    • smpantsonfire on 07/04/2017 - 17:46

      Unfortunately, this will not work for our BMW filters.

      • backpaqer on 10/04/2017 - 10:43

        BMW's are from Germany…they have vays…you know ;)

  • syousef on 07/04/2017 - 15:03
    +1

    If you don't have mechanical knowledge it can be worth having a mechanic do the change and check over your car. They have a name for that. A "service".

  • mitcheo on 07/04/2017 - 15:11
    +1

    Your going about this as a normal person not an ozbargainer, thats your problem. As others have mentioned good grade oil goes on sale all the time. buy filters online.

  • tap on 07/04/2017 - 15:52

    I don't understand the perspective that spending $60 on some oil is such an issue when you're spending equal or MORE on petrol every fill up. Tools are an investment so don't count them in on the service cost. Changing the oil in my GTI costs about $60 for oil and filter because I usually have a few bottles of oil shelved from the last SCA deal ;)

  • aussieprepper on 07/04/2017 - 16:55

    Double your cost you definitely need a impact driver lol. It's actually my most used power tool well worth the investment.

  • smpantsonfire on 07/04/2017 - 17:45
    +1

    This is what you want. Genuine OEM Filter. Much better than any car part stores brand.

    https://clickableautomotive.com.au/bmw-e36-e46-e39-e60-x3-x5…

    Oil, this is what you want. PROVIDING ITS BMW LL01 approved. Which this should be.

    https://www.autobarn.com.au/castrol-edge-titanium-5w30-engin…

    If you have clamps, you don't need a 36mm Socket.

    Easy Peasy. Done.

    • ycon on 07/04/2017 - 19:04

      Could you explain how I would use clamps instead of the socket? Would be awesome not to have to wait for AliExpress to deliver the socket (as I have a trip next week of 1400km's)

      • smpantsonfire on 07/04/2017 - 19:29

        Basically tighten the clamp on the big nut on the top of the filter housing. Tight enough that when you try to turn the clamp, it doesn't slip.

        There is a torque spec for retightening, but as tight as you can get without Hercules strength, will suffice.

        • ycon on 07/04/2017 - 22:50

          Big shame auto barn is 25km's from me. Anywhere that will price match? If they stock it- might big w? Do super cheap price match?

    • ycon on 10/04/2017 - 11:13

      Does it matter if it isn't LL01 approved? I haven't really found any that are

  • thewarden on 07/04/2017 - 21:16
    +1

    I've worked on these engines quite a bit (assume you've got the M54 in you X5 3.0), and oil changes are a breeze. Things can be a bit tight with an adjustable oil filter wrench (engine bay is a bit cramped near the filter), so if you can't wait for a 36mm socket, try a large shifting spanner (can also be used for the sump plug). Just watch that you don't strip the plastic cap on the filter when loosening/tightening it.
    Check the video here: Oil change X5 M54

    Next time, as all others have said, buy good quality tools as you need them, and your collection will grow over the years. Makes things much easier and faster. I love the M54 engine, but there are a few upkeep items to stay on top of otherwise it will become a moneypit real quick.

    • ycon on 10/04/2017 - 08:52

      Thanks, great video. Looks very easy.

      Yep, its the M54 3.0. From my research, it is more reliable than most BMWs but I want to look after it as best I can.

      Could you tell me about other items to keep on top of to keep it from being a money pit?

      • thewarden on 13/04/2017 - 09:43
        +1

        Sure. IMHO it's a great engine which is nearly indestructible, but it does have weaknesses. In a quasi-order of importance:
        * 1. Cooling system - brittle as hell. The expansion tank cracks, engine overheats, and once the temp gauge reaches red on your dash (it's temp buffering is terrible) then you engine has pretty much already gone. I pay about 400 in parts for a complete cooling system overhaul (including metal water pump), it takes 4-5 hours, and should be done every 3 years or so.
        * 2. VANOS seals, they go and you loose significant performance and economy at lower rpms. Usually also makes a rattle sound near the front of the engine. Buy a DR VANOS kit and rebuilt it, couple of hundred dollars but well worth it.
        * 3. DISA valve, the butterfly flap breaks and stops regulating air-flow to the engine. Very easy to fix, and only $200 for a new one, or $60 or so to rebuild.
        * 4. CCV (CrankCase Ventilation Valve), not a huge issue in Australia, but takes a while to remove and refit. Only $150 for all parts, but will take 5-6 hours first time to fix.
        * 5. OFHG (Oil Filter Housing Gasket), this will go south, fix is a $15 gasket, but takes 7 hours or so to fix.
        * 6. MAF, tells the ECU how much air is entering the intake manifold. Gets dirty over time, don't bother with maf cleaner, just a $300 part to fix, takes 5 minutes to replace.
        * 7. Fuel Pump: Not really part of the engine, but these usually last 5-7 years and will fail eventually, so its $250 for an oem pump and a 30 min job to replace. Replace the fuel filter at the same time.
        * 8. Intake boots, all rubber and all are going to crack and cause vacuum leaks. You can do a smoke test to find leaks, often intake leaks are the issue when people falsely think the MAF is gone.
        * 9. Idle control valve, I don't see too many that are wrecked, but they do get dirty and need a clean with brake cleaner every couple of years.
        * 10. Pre-cat o2 sensors die around 150,000kms, and need to be replaced with Bosch ones.
        * 11. Change the oil every 7500km. You have a timing chain and tensioner that will last forever if taken care of, but the BMW service interval of 25000km is stupid. Use 5w-40 full synth (look for BMW LL-01 on the oil) every 7500km or six months.
        * 12. Change spark plugs and air filter every two years.

        My M54B30 has 250k and doesn't skip a beat (touch wood). There a bunch of chassis/drivetrain/suspension things too, but just as my list, they are well documented online.

        • ycon on 15/04/2017 - 09:01

          Whoa that's incredibly useful!

          I bought oil, but it is 5W-30 full synth. It's BMW LL04.

          The 5W-40 was about $30 more expensive, but it is BMW LL01 . Should I see if I can exchange it?

        • thewarden on 15/04/2017 - 10:39

          From what I remember, LL04 is for euro applications, and shouldn't be used outside of Europe. I would definitely exchange it for LL01, maybe you can pick up something cheap this weekend? I usually get whatever LL01 is cheapest, usually ends up being the Penrite HPR5 5w-40, sometimes it's the Shell.

        • codename47 on 21/04/2017 - 07:25

          @thewarden: HPR5 is $29 for 6 litres on Repco Today and tomorrow ( 21/22 april). I am going to buy that for my oil change on Aurion.

        • thewarden on 22/04/2017 - 10:23
          +1

          @codename47: Yeah saw, that. Already bought 10L of valvoline LL01 last weekend for $70. I'd only I'd held out another week…

        • codename47 on 22/04/2017 - 14:27

          @thewarden: Picked up the 2x6L Penrite for $60! not bad I guess? IS that valvoline fully syn ?

        • thewarden on 25/04/2017 - 11:00
          +1

          @codename47: Yeah, fully syn. If it's LL01, it will be fully syn.

  • kingpin123 on 07/04/2017 - 22:10

    doing oil changes is easy ….

    super cheap is ok .. so is repco when they have specials .. so is bursons automotive stores ..

    look at ebay for the tools and parts and oil filters …

    and buy oil only from stores ..

    you could get the oil filter socket off ebay for $5 free shipping .. and a cheap socket set with wrench off ebay free shipping $10

    oem oil filter $20 or less

    btw you should not need a oil filter socket unless the person who fitted it last used a socket .. or over tightened it ..

    when i replace filters I do them hand tight .. no need to use the bloody socket to tighten them .. lol

  • [Deactivated] on 07/04/2017 - 22:13
    +3

    First time car owner and you bought an ancient X5? Are you nuts?

  • [Deactivated] on 07/04/2017 - 22:30

    You'll get plenty of people on airtasker that'll bring their own tools and change your oil for <$50. Maybe less, if you drive to them. Probably only 30-40mins work (not sure how long it'll take to drain 6.5l though).

    You'll still have to supply the parts.

    • ycon on 07/04/2017 - 22:45

      Yeah i was thinking of doing this for my disc brake rotor / pad change. I feel competent enough for the oil change part though

  • btst7000 on 07/04/2017 - 23:44

    On the other hand, 4L of synthetic diesel oil for my Golf TDI cost me $36 (purchase 10L for $85 of OZB) and the oil filter cost $19 - so the total oil change cost $55 and a half hour of time. Not that expensive after all!

  • noise36 on 07/04/2017 - 23:52
    +1

    Why not just pay and have you car serviced? Its more than an oil change… They look for maintenance issues which need attention or will likely need attention in the future.

  • Johnni on 07/04/2017 - 23:54

    smpantsonfire is on the right track

    Clickableautomotive is a great BMW parts distributor in Australia that is reasonably priced.

    When the dollar was at parity with US dollar, US was a great place to buy parts. Schmiedmann in Denmark is my go to place now. I ordered a fuel pump on a Tuesday night and it was on my doorstep in Melbourne Friday Morning with DHL. I followed the whole journey with online tracking from Denmark, through Europe to Heathrow then Melbourne. Still can't believe it. https://www.schmiedmann.com/

    There are plenty of BMW forums with DIY for everything out there. My favorite is Bimmerfest and use the search function. When cars reach a certain vintage, you will find that all repairs are well documented with plenty of discussions about appropriate oil approved for your motor. Plent of DIYs with lots of photos. Great resource.

    I have a an 1997 530i e39 and do all my own maintenance. The money you save from DIYing goes into buying more tools and perhaps a Bentley Manual for your Model vehicle that will step you through all procedures to do your own maintenance if you want to go beyond oil changes.

    I also own a Peake code reader that plugs into the OBD port to read fault codes stored in the on board computer if any are registered. Handy for diagnosing problems and see if you have an honest mechanic. This tool also resets the oil service and interval light to let you know when an oil change is due by a series of green lights that disappear one at a time till there are none and change oil comes up. http://www.peakeresearch.com/

    There is a new product called Carly for smart phones that I have only read about which also allows for programing I believe. http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/

  • PAPower on 08/04/2017 - 11:14

    Not sure if you could find Groupon/Scoopon deals for BMW service but my way is always to grab bargain oil @ SCA or so, then hunt for Car Service deal. Combine them two will last for 10,000 kms with only under $100. (Adelaide prices).

    https://www.groupon.com.au/deals/motorcraft-repairs

  • Plug on 08/04/2017 - 18:26

    Why does a car that old need 5w40?

    Edit: forget that. I thought you had a BMW 2002.

  • maybeamacy on 09/04/2017 - 00:08

    I was actually going to get my car serviced the other day, dealer quoted $380 and I was like woah so cheap (my last service was like $1.2k lol). I told my friend and he told me to check the service schedule to see what's included and it was just a oil change..

    I really like a dealership stamp on my logbook, but a $330 premium on a $50 oil change? I think I'll just bring my oil and filters to an indy, pay them to change it and get them to stamp it!

    • Euphemistic on 09/04/2017 - 07:53

      Would hope that a $380 service is more than 'just an oil change'. IF your service was done properly it would include an oil change, but also an inspection of the vehicle for all wear parts including up on a hoist and checking suspension components etc, a short test drive, tyres assessment and whatever else is included in the service manual. Changing the oil is only one part of a proper service, unfortunately there are too many places out there that don't fully carry out the inspection but happily charge you as if they did. It is one reason why some places can offer very cheap oil changes - it is all that is done.

  • Most Wanted on 09/04/2017 - 04:40

    This is like when i First decided to cut my own hair.. sure the haircutting kit cost $15 "a deal" but thats a One off .. sure it will take more time and i need to clean up… But after 3 years cutting my own hair, Its (profanity) worth it .. Saved sooo much money and I became a pro after a few months, no major mistakes either.. its pretty hard to (profanity) up "as a guy".

    Its the same with doing a oil change for your car.. you're a virgin oil changer xD but after 2-5 times you'll get it perfect, even where to go to dump that oil will change. Just need to take that "leap" and do it.

  • ycon on 10/04/2017 - 09:18

    Edit: Oil I was referring to is out of stock

  • JOCKz on 17/04/2017 - 19:44

    I would advise buying cheap tools, their fitment is sloppy. Not worth it imo, when it slips and rounds off whatever your going to undo, your going to kick yourself. As it was said to me a long time ago "buy the best you can afford"

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