Still cheaper to do your own oil change?

Hi all,

First time car owner, and my car is due for an oil change.

Process seems simple, it's an older 2002 bmw x5 3.0i petrol.

However, a visit to Super cheap auto was surprising.

For the change, I need a 17mm Socket, and 36mm oil socket

Total cost:
Tool kit (1/2" rachet, 17mm socket & lots more) - $88
Oil socket 36mm- $29
Oil filter -$30
Oil (synthetic - 5w 40). 6.5 litres required - $130

Total : $277

I haven't enquired about a service, but $277 is a lot of money considering I'm going all the work.

Any recommendations for doing it cheaper? Or recommendations on mechanics that do it for that price or less?

UPDATE:

Thanks to this thread

Socket kit (3/8" rachet)- Bunnings - $9
17mm socket - Bunnings- $7.50
Oil socket 36mm- eBay- $4.50
Oil filter - AutoCollective- $20
Oil (synthetic - 5w 40) 10 Litres - Autobarn - $74

Total: $115

Comments

  • +9

    We'll you're buying a socket set as well…. Obviously going to add to the cost

    You should be able to get 10L of oil for a touch cheaper. I find Autobarn cheaper.
    I'd also get a new sump plug seal/gasket. Up to you.

    • BMW filters come with the seal.

  • How do people dispose of oil properly when they do it themselves? Would this be an additional cost?

    • +16

      Supercheapauto have a huge oil collection tank at most stores so you can leave your oil there.
      Council depots also take oil.

      some people want it for making biodiesel

      • Thanks, often wondered. Should start doing it myself then !

      • +4

        I once saw an EPA billboard that said "you can use old motor oil to fertilize your lawn"

        • -2

          really ?
          I just googled an saw lots of posts reinforcing my guess that oil will damage the soil and kill plants

        • +2

          That was in the movie Fight Club

        • +5

          @Meconium:

          Shhh. You're not meant to talk about it.

      • +1

        I did actually once Park over a stormwater drain for oil change and other work..was able to step into stormwater pit and work safely on car. Not a drop of oil got into the drain.

        I was in accommodation without off street parking/driveway.

        These days I have a Toyota echo. Self Service usually costs $30 or so. I have a carport and jackstands too so no more teenage mutant ninja turtlesque manoeuvres

    • +8

      Put it back in the oil containers and "forget" it near your front gate or garage. You'd be surprised how quick it disappears"

    • Often you can take it around to a workshop and they won't mind you putting it in their barrel of goo

    • +1

      In NSW go to your local recycle centre, its free!
      Can also take old eneloops, lightglobes etc.etc.blah blahnblah :)

    • -2

      toilet?

  • +15

    But you don't buy new tools each time.
    Does the old car need fully synthetic?

    • -2

      Yes, all BMWs in the last 20 years (or more) needs full synthetic oil.

      • I didnt neg vote you 'cos I dont know. But a few people have so maybe you do not have to have full synthetic engine oil. No idea, just wondering.

        • +1

          Change normal mineral often enough and you won't do any damage. I run mineral and change it every 5000. Just because I can.
          More oil changes are better than running synthetic longer.
          Synthetic deteriorates quickly in a running engine.
          Mineral isn't all bad.

        • The few people who neg voted me have no idea and are living in the dark ages.

          I buy my fully synthetic oil for $5-$6L on sale.

          Old cars that need fully synthetic oil when new, still need it 20 years later.

          However, after 20 years, they may need a thicker fully synthetic oil if the worn engine is burning oil.

        • @imnotarobot:

          I won't disagree with you but I can say, fully synthetic lasts a lot longer than mineral oil.

          I'll stick with servicing my engine with fully synthetic every 15,000km. Probably the same result you get servicing every 5,000km with Mineral oil. However I will save both time and money.

          Mineral oils aren't bad, but fully synthetic oils are much more advanced and stable.

        • @JB1: no worries, whatever works for you. I change my oil and filter for about $25 every 5k (vs 150 every 15k at a service centre)
          Always better to learn and do it yourself

        • @imnotarobot:

          I service my VW, BMW and Volvo every 15k with fully synthetic oil.

          At $5-6 a litre and $15 for OEM Oil Filter, it costs me between $40 and $60 to change the oil every 15k (logbook recommendation, except for BMW which I can extend to ~20-25k).

          VW uses 5L, BMW 6.5L and Volvo uses 7.5L.

          I agree, better to learn to DIY for basic servicing. Because they are European, mechanics always charge higher. They quote between $150 and $250 + inflated parts/lubricants just for a basic oil change service. No thank you.

        • @JB1:
          Yeah, Mine's a basic Jap 4 banger, so pretty straight forward.
          That's much better than I would have thought, servicing wise, for those Euros. Definitely worth it in the long run.

  • $4.32 for you Oil Socket 36mm on Ebay
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Car-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Cap-Soc…

    Oil Filters usually less than $20 on eBay also.

    And 6.5L is a heap of oil - do you drive a Mac Truck?

    Do you even Ozbargain?

    • +3

      Supercheap will quite often have deals off penrite oils (very good quality stuff) I think a week or two ago it was 30% off. Supercheap also seem to have 20% off sales on a monthly basis now so if you'd rather wait to save the $10 or so then that's an option.

    • +1

      6.5L is common in European cars with long oil change intervals.

  • +3
    • 1/2" rachet for $35.98 at Bunnings
    • 11mm socket for $6.14 at SCA
    • Oil filter - sign up to be an Autobarn AutoClub member and get 20% of your next purchase. If you're planning on keeping your car and servicing it then just stock up on a few filters
    • The price for fully synthetic oil you have there is pretty high. I stocked up on Penrite oil from this deal. Depends what brand you're after, but it shouldn't be anywhere near $130.

    The tools are a once off purchase, but after that the price should be fairly low per service. I think it's about $50 to so for an oil and filter change on my car. If I'm doing spark plugs and a few extra things, it usually doesn't exceed $100. Completely up to you with how much you want to invest. Should take you ~30-60 mins if it's your first time :)

  • You're right - the tools aren't what id buy each time…

    The oil is the real killer. That deal you posted has expired. The fact i need 6.5L doesn't help .

    Where else can I buy inexpensive synthetic oil?

    • If you wanted to get some this week I would go to Costco for this deal provided you have or know someone with a Costco membership.
      Otherwise browse around in the SCA/Repco/Autobarn catalogues and see if you find anything that suits your car. Plan C would be to use the 20% off from the Autobarn AutoClub member discount.

      Based on the fact that you need 6.5L of oil, I would buy 4x5L at once (total of 20L) and that should cover you for 3 oil changes (19.5L).

      • Thanks. I have no friends with memberships, so not really an option. Ive checked kmart, repco, eBay, & super cheap. Any other recommendations?

  • +1

    Yeah as everyone else as said, the tools are a one of purchase that aren't just limited to servicing vehicles! I don't know how anyone gets through life without at least a basic socket set lol.

    Seriously though once you have the required tools, which aren't too expensive you are looking at between $25-50 for oil depending on the quality you want (the $25 stuff is probably what they put in at the local mechanics) and another $10-20 for an oil filter… total cost well under $100, probably more like $60-70 per basic service if you DIY, plus about 45mins of your time, being generous.

    • $50 for 6.5L + of synthetic? Where? I've looked at kart, repco & super cheap

  • +18

    You want cheap servicing so you bought a BMW?

    • +2

      BMWs aren't much more expensive than any other cars to service.

      Consumables aren't expensive if you don't buy from a dealer.

      • -8

        They actually should be cheaper to service, the engine bays are actually thought out, and designed well making working on the engine far easier than ANY japanese car.

        • +9

          Where did you get this from? Most mechanics ive spoken to big to differ.

          Not only they like to use fancy torx screws but some engines require a special tool kit.

          In fact ANY japanese car is easier to service than a BMW.

        • Labour wise, they are easy to service, but they require fully synthetic oil and lots of it, this is why it's more expensive.

          DIY Servicing. It may costs me more in oil, (filters etc are the same as Japanese) but I can service our older BMW faster than a Japanese car. New BMWs are different.

          smpantsonfire- some people just don't understand and won't understand.

        • @wombok2:

          Sorry, but unless you service both cars, you don't know.

          Most mechanics will charge you more to service a European car because they can, not because it's harder.

          I do the basic servicing on my own European cars and also family's Japanese cars.

          Any Japanese car?

          It takes me 10mins to change 6 spark plugs in our BMW.

          I would have trouble even locating the spark plugs on a Subaru.

          To change the oil filter in our BMW, I can do it from the top of the engine bay. Not a drip of oil because it's well designed.
          See here http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/pictures/oil_06.jpg

          Fancy torx screws? lol, it's $20 for a set. It's not a specialised tool.

        • @JB1: Subaru aren't a good comparison for spark plug location. I'd guess that most other 4cyl engines are just as easy to change. v6 or V8 can be more difficult.

        • @Euphemistic:

          'In fact ANY japanese car is easier to service than a BMW'

          Isn't a Subaru Japanense? ;)

          Look I agree that some Japanese cars are easier to service than a BMW, having said that 6 cylinder BMWs built around the year 2000 are easy to service as the engine bay is very logically laid out. I can't speak for the current generation BMW as I don't have experience with them.

    • +1

      Awesome! Thank you. Totally green to all of this. Shipping would take awhile I guess?

      • +1

        3 to 6 weeks. but the once off savings…..

        • Ok. I have a trip (~1400kms) coming up.. Might have to skip the service then.

          Also,is it a bad idea to get a filter from AliExpress? I'm terms of quality?

        • @ycon: the filter could be fine. sockets and ratchets are one thing - you're not putting them in your car. (the tools I recommend will be totally good and will last for donkeys years)

          Penrite Full Synthetic Engine Oil - 5W-30, 6 Litre $54.99 (was $64.99) @ supercheapauto - also join the SCA club and get a $5 voucher.

          You can buy filters off aliexpress. I'd be more inclined to change them a bit regularly than recommended (but that is just paranoia). they would be fine. look for sellers with good feedback on the filters.

        • Ok yep,but still thats $110 on oil alone. Seems unavoidable…

        • +1

          @ycon: that's $110 for 12 litres. you need 6.5 litres. so next time you only need 1 litre of oil. .. which is $15.

          inexpensive oil filter from aliexpress US$9.40 delivered

          so 2 services will cost :

          Oil - $125
          filters ~$28
          tools ~$28
          $181 or ~$90 each.

          or if you don't count the tool cost. then ~$80 (just oil + filter)

        • @ycon: just pick up the 6L and buy an extra 1L

        • +1

          @altomic:

          inexpensive oil filter from aliexpress US$9.40 delivered

          I wouldn't do this, worst case scenario if the filter fails and kills the engine an Australian company will come to the table and pay for a reco engine or rebuild whereas a random chinese seller on aliexpress won't give you the time of day. You can pick up a wesfil one for a few bucks more which I think is definitely worth it.

          http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Oil-Filter-Fit-Interchangeable-wi…

        • @Herp: no-one is paying for an engine recondition… why would some-one fix your engine if it went bang… when using some cheap part to try and save a few dollars. take some responsibility for your actions… your mum will lend you the money anyway… to fix a friggin beamer.

        • +1

          @Well Wasted:

          If it was their product that failed and caused the engine to go belly up then both Ryco and wesfil specifically state they will pay to fix it

          http://www.rycofilters.com.au/company/warranty

          In addition to your rights under the Australian Consumer Law, GUD Automotive Pty Ltd (GUD) provides a LIMITED WARRANTY for RYCO products that expires either 1 YEAR after the installation of the product or upon the expiration of the operation period recommended by the original equipment manufacturer for the vehicle/engine (whichever comes first).

          During this voluntary warranty period if any engine or equipment is damaged as a result of the use of a proven defective RYCO product, GUD Automotive will pay to restore the engine or equipment to a condition equivalent to the state of the engine or equipment immediately prior to the damage. Consequential damage claims will not be covered by this voluntary warranty.

          http://www.wesfil.com.au/about

        • +1

          @Herp: +1. Don't go and buy an aliexpress oil filter.

    • I need a 17mm socket. The one you suggested stops at 13mm… How can I find a kit with a 17mm? manually looking at all of them is taking a lot of time

    • Might as well get this socket set from bunnings for cheaper, it'll be the same (crap) quality anyway https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-40-piece-socket-set-1…

      And I'm not sure why you're suggesting getting a set of socket adapters since the 36mm socket and the wrench in both the ali and bunnings kits are 3/8s.

      • How can I tell if this kit has the 17mms socket I need?

        • 17mm socket US$3 delivered @ aliexpress.

          get that bunnings set. perfect. cheap.

        • @altomic:

          All this terminology is new to me. So would be great to get clarification on:

          Isn't a 17mm 1/2"? And the ranch in the Bunnings its a 1/4" & 3/8" drive. So would they connect?

          What do I need to connect the 36mm" to my ratchet if I go with the Bunnings option?

        • @Herp:

          All the parts seem to be 3/8". How is that different to 1/2"? Is it purely an adapter size or is there practical reasons for using one over the otehr

        • +1

          @ycon:

          I can't explain for shit, however wikipedia gives a reasonble overview of it
          https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_wrench#Ratcheting

          But basically a larger drive size like 1/2" can handle greater forces than a 3/8" but for basic automotive tasks like this then 3/8" is perfectly fine.

          The wrench in the bunnings socket set, the alibaba 36mm socket and either the ali or bunnings 17mm sockets posted in this comment tree are all 3/8" and will be compatible.

        • +1

          FYI 17mm is a very common socket size. It will be in nearly every 3/8" & 1/2" socket set you can buy.

          Most wheel bolt lugs are 17mm.

    • Yeah sure, cheap and will end up rounding off your nuts eventually.

  • +2

    I tend to DIY and don't take into account the cost of tools. if some tools and parts/consumables add up to what it would cost for a professional to do it the you are in front becuase you've got the tools ready for next time 'for free'.

  • +1

    Other things to consider

    -Tools are an investment and a one off cost. Once you have them you can use them again and for other uses.
    -You know whats going in the car when you do it yourself. Mechanics will most likely use a generic mobil/shell oil they have a drum of and use it for most if not all cars (Not that there is anything wrong with that).
    -How much do you value your time? By the time you've got the car warm, safely jacked it up and do the actual job you're looking atleast an hour plus depending on exp.
    -Mechanics typically conduct a basic service which is more than just an oil change.

    Having said that once tools were purchased (many years ago) each time I've changed the oil in my car it usually sets me back $70 (who the hell pays rrp when repco/sca have specials every day!) oil + filter.

  • +2

    I'd be offloading the X5 quick smart. I wouldn't even worry about the cost to change the oil, it's a trivial expense compared to something going wrong with the vehicle itself.

    • +3

      I agree, cost of repairs on this vehicle is staggering… if you're trying to save money on something as basic as an oil change, I don't think this is the right car for you.

  • +2

    You will need a jack and car stands if you do not already

    • +5

      Maybe, X5 is an SUV so if you park one wheel on the kerb and the other on the road there might be enough room to work under it.

      If it needs jacking up, def get jack stands, DO NOT WORK UNDER JACK ALONE.

      • +5

        I once had a supervisor called Jack Alone, he was a dick.

        Advice checks out.

    • I prefer ramps, always feels a bit more secure.

  • what about the log book stamp for resale, is there any consideration for that?

    • +6

      Not that critical in a 15yro car, but obviously important if it was newer and still under warranty.

    • attach the receipt for the oil & filter and fill out the date.

  • You could find the tools second hand on gumtree or a market, or even just buy a single ring spanner in the size you need.

  • Do you know where exactly the oil filter is located on your particular car? It could be difficult doing the change without a lift. Also I would recommend a trolley jack and at least 2 jack stands to safely work underneath the car.

  • +2

    Good idea! You will learn more about how your car works and how to change/fix things.

    Also:

    • Ramps or stands (as mypantsaretight said) - never just keep it up on the jack
    • Draining pan for used oil (needs to be deep and wide as the flow of draining oil changes over time)
    • Plastic bag to enclose oil filter as you remove it (it spills its own oil down onto you if you're right under it, so be careful)
    • Socket wrench with decent length for leverage or breaker bar extension (as the draining nuts can be a pain to undo sometimes)
    • Lying on your back under a heavy car for a while
    • Expect to bang a few knuckles sore as you try it for the first time
    • Expect to get oil and grease on your face, arm, hands, etc (wear cheap disposable gloves)
    • Expect to get some dirty oil on your driveway

    But once you do it and get experience, you'll get more confidence in replacing that alternator when it fails, or changing your brake pads, etc.

    • +2

      Good use for the big piece of cardboard you saved from your last OzBargain purchase (for laying on and catching any drips, so your driveway doesn't).

      • +1

        I did this exact thing only yesterday!

  • +1

    Once you gear-up, it is then a matter of purchasing the oil and oil filter. If you watch and wait for a sale, you will get these for less than you expect. Normally, I do my own service for under $30, which is 5 liters Castrol GTX 2 plus filter. Takes about 1 hour to drain the sump properly. The local dump has a drum that waste oil is placed. Definitely worth it.

  • +5

    I put an oil drain valve on mine.

    http://fumoto.com.au/

  • +1

    As the OP is new to oil changes, I assume he is also new to car servicing in general.

    I've serviced my car plenty of times and an oil change is never just an oil change. You also need to look at the other items required in a normal service, e.g. inspecting brakes pads/fluids, water levels, tyre wear, tie rods, rust etc.

  • i dunno about changing the oil filter in an X5, but i founded some cars very difficult to fit a oil filter wrench to tighten the oil filter into place.

    • I used to have this problem. See my comment below.

  • +1

    Go home, ask dad (or mum) to help. Maybe even a friend/neighbour to show you the ropes. Do you have a vehicle jack and stands? You will need a waste container that holds way more than 6.5 liters as well. Garage sales and markets will get you tools cheaper, and if you do not keep up the work yourself, no big loss on resale compared to new. Join an Auto-club for help and advise, and parts discounts, and maybe all the help you need on a club maintenance day.

    This is such a simple process for me, near 40 years in the trade, but when you really start to try for the first time, cudos to you, but there are much more to consider than just the cost in $$. Skin and bark off the knuckles, damaged/jammed sump bungs, over tightened filters and now you are up for special tools and equipment, and knowledge, and your car is now maybe a tow away pain in the butt.

    I want you to succeed, but you should be with a buddy on this, your first time is special, a moment …tender and eye opening, or maybe even a few. Changing your oil on a car, is like brushing your teeth or just eating a snack, there is soooooo much more to basic car maintenance you need to also know and think about.

    Don't give up, just be open to learning the rest, and do not stop at a simple oil change. If you can not do it safely for you, the environment and your car, then ok, stop. Pay a pro.

    Again, safety first, to you, the environment and your ride. Also, burnt waste engine oil is carcinogenic, and the dirt and FOD that falls from the underbelly into your eyes and mouth are not so good. Do you have dental cover for those chipped broken teeth….it happens.

    • Thanks for all that. I don't have a stand or jack. The car isn't that high off the group, so was planning on putting one side of the car up on the kerb (as suggested by @Euphemistic)

      Neither of my folks know about cars either. If only there was someone wanting to help out in Sydney! I'd trade a tank of P98 petrol if someone wanted to help out haha (I've got the 7-eleven app, locked in too many litres for myself).

      • Are you on good terms with your neighbours? I lend tools (and a hand when required) with the bloke across the street pretty regularly.

  • The cost is high because you're buying oil at $20 per litre. High grade synthetic can be purchased for just $10 per litre retail, and even less when SCA is having its regular 20% off sale.

    The car is 15 years old. It doesn't demand Mobil 1.

  • You can get all that stuff heaps cheaper, do you even OzBargain bro?

    Discounts on oils up to 50% are common, just stock up when they are on. Supercheap club also applies credit for a sale up to 30 days after purchase so that can be a little win. Oil is usually best with physical store pickup because it is bulky and a problem to ship.

    Sockets can be as low as $20, but quality is nice. The cheapest can damage bold heads. One good set can last a lifetime, if you hide it from jerks who always steal bits. A cheap set is still handy as a decoy for borrowers and for when you need to abuse the tools.

    Ebay for filters and stuff, the Supercheap/Repco prices for them are all bad.
    Reusable filters and in come cases housing replacements to use cheaper consumables can be worth it, K&N etc. Depends on the car and what the paper throwaways cost.

  • OP, if you're in Melbourne, I can sell you 3 x 5L Valvoline Fully Synthetic 5W40 for $25 per bottle. Enough for 2 oil changes.

    I have a few bottles left over that I won't use for a while.

    You can have my spare 36mm socket for $10.

    • Ah darn- I'm in Sydney. This could have been perfect.

      • +2

        That's a shame. I'm actually driving up to Sydney next week, but no, I'm not going to bring the oil with me! lol

        BMW's of that era are easy to service (we still have one), oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs- very well laid out.

  • +4

    make a funnel out of a coke bottle if you want to save money

    • +4

      Make sure you buy the coke on special though

  • +1

    Wait for Supercheap to have a 30% off on oil sale, grab 10L for ~$70 (Penrite HPR5 is what I'd recommend)

    Supercheap also regularly have 20% off storewide sales, grab a filter then

    When ever they have another sale, buy another 10L and keep some in stock instead of ad-hoc buying

  • I only buy oil when its on special at supercheap. 40 to 50% off at times.

    My bill is -

    $21 to $23 for oil normally semi-syn. Fully sync would normally $30 when on special.
    $23 for extended drain filter.

    so between $40 to $50 bucks here.. I already have my own tools. My car takes 4.7 litres. Wait for full syn oil to be on special.. Normally Castrol edge..

    For your price, you might as well go to a AMSoil dealer, bring your own containers so they can fill you up directly from oil drum. It will still be cheaper, as you just fill up the amount you required. Pricing is in USD. I use to do this for my sports car.

    http://www.lubricationmanagement.com.au/

    http://members.optuszoo.com.au/~uber.drive/

    You probably need to hunt down a reseller in Sydney.

  • It won't cost you $277 each time going forward. You can buy individual sockets. You don't need an oil filter socket - ram a screwdriver into the filter sideways and you get nice leverage (obviously you aren't reusing the filter).

    Check out the nylon full synth range… Should not be $130. It's as good as anything out there.

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