Cheap 3D printer recommendations.. Anet A8?

Hey guys,

So I'm chasing a cheap, reasonable quality 3D printer. I'd like to build it myself for the learning experience. I don't want to spend more than $250 if possible. I've been looking at the Anet A8 (https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_3373…) which seems to be reasonably priced. Is this a good deal..? Does anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks

Comments

  • +3

    Heya,

    I got my Anet A8 back in June when they were $217 AUD flash sale, got it assembled & printed good as is. Then read all the horror stories about the heatbed connector melting, PSU shorting out so started the upgrade journey (new ATX PSU, Mosftes, wiring upgrade etc) so now I'm in the hole for about the same again as the original purchase price. I guess bare that in mind when considering the purchase price, you could spend what I have in total & buy a CR10 which has all metal frame, MOSFET built in & larger build volume.

    Rob.

    • Thanks. The CR10 looks quite good, just fractionally out of my price range atm. Might wait and see if a deal pops up

      • I know what you mean, I still didn't want to spend that much on a 3d printer either but effectively have. The community behind the Anet A8 is fantastic. If you have the spare free time (mine took about 10 hours to build & calibrate) and have the coin for the CR10 I'd say go for it. Mine has done just over 300 hours of printing & no major failures or replacements have been needed.

  • I got the A8 too. It took a weekend to build (~8-10 hours)

    I also had problems with the heatbed connector melting. It was replaced and now works fine. I think the connector melted when I got a bit of acetone on it while cleaning the platform. Having said that I'd only run the printer when someone's around. Another problem I had was the extruder dying, you really can't force the filament through, which had to be replaced as well.

    Otherwise I think it prints alright. Pretty decent build volume.

    • Thanks for the reply. I'll have to do a bit more research

  • I've got the TronXY P802 which is more-or-less the same as the Anet (yet another Prusa I3 clone). Works fine and hasn't given me any grief, first print came out rather well.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/91xcce24haydvo5/2017-04-08%2014.20…, model from Thingiverse. That's on a freshly assembled printer, no calibration, stock Cura settings, with the sample PLA by someone who's watched a few YouTube videos.

    It's about 40mm tall, if you look on the legs you can see a line, and lesser ones further up. They're either from z-wobble or loose belts. The blobs on her hip are from software (possibly retraction/layer change/print order settings).

    The TronXY comes in direct & Bowden drive versions, I think the Anet is direct-drive only.

    When assembling don't tighten things up as you go, wait until everything is together, check for square etc, tighten the screws a bit and repeat. I think all the people what saying "thing is junk!" on YouTube simply don't know how to build stuff. Kids these days.

    Also swap the PSU and controller positions; with the board on the left the SD card gets blocked by the moving bits, making it hard to get in & out without powering the machine on and homing it. (Avoid USB tethering.)

    Find a thick board and secure it to that, that'll stop it flexing and going out of alignment when you move it around.

    Buy a spare extruder head (with heater & sensor) with silicone boot and some nozzles & throats as well, clones are cheap. Solder connectors to the heater & sensor so you can swap the head fast (when it clogs). Clear clogs in the nozzle with a blowtorch, burn it out rather than stuff around with tiny drills and what-not.

    Your first 'serious' prints should be the belt tension things (X & Y). That'll improve quality the most.

    I am going to change my machine to run on 24v, this will drop the amperage and avoid the burning connectors and dead MOSFET problems some have had. Need to check how the board works first.

    My only other change will be to make an enclosure for it, replacing the plastic frame parts as well. This will probably be stiffer than even the metal frame versions, main reason is to increase print speed. (I've got a laser cutter.)

  • Sorry to hijack the thread, but looking there are a few experts here, I am looking at buying a second hand wanhao i3 with lots of mods, the owner is also selling with $200 worth of filaments according to him:

    "It's the wanhao duplicator 2.0 very similar to ALDI's model .. there is lots of upgrades.. so hard to explain… Z brace mod. Cooling mod. Belt tensioner mod. Microswiss hot head…And more…. I have lots of spares plus all parts for making the printer faster with Bowden extruder… Plus all the IKEA enclosure with led light… Price is not negotiable because if I don't sell I'm still happy.. and just the spools value more than 200$..
    I'm selling because I'm too busy for use it"

    for $500, is it a good deal? I never owned one and I'm sure I would do all the mods etc to make it better so what appeals to me is that all the mods are done already. YAY or NAY? Thanks guys.

    • I think doing the mods yourself is most of the fun. I would prefer to get a new printer.

Login or Join to leave a comment