Supercheap Auto having a sale on their HPR-5 5W40 Oils. Amazing fully synthetic stuff. Highly recommended for many many cars.
Penrite HPR-5 6L $36.99ea from Supercheap Auto
110
Lnavyskies on 13/01/2018 - 10:09 supercheapauto.com.au (311 clicks)
Last edited 13/01/2018 - 12:39 by 1 other user
Last edited 13/01/2018 - 12:39 by 1 other user
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done. sorry first time posting haha :)
Great deal, fully synthetic for 6 bucks a litre.
Read somewhere that this isn’t proper fully synthetic…apparently it’s cracked or something and don’t actually belong in the true synthetic group. Anyone know anything about this?
It is considered a full synthetic in Australia/US as it is group III hydrocracked.
Not considered a full synthetic in Germany which requires Group IV (PAO/Esters etc.).
Unfortunately in Australia its very hard to determine whether group III or IV. Most synthetic oils worldwide use group III including the major oil companies.
Better solution is check for specs, this has BMW LL01, MB 229.5, Porsche A40, VW 505 so this oil is very good.Check out BITOG if you want to go down the rabbit hole of engine oil information
http://bobistheoilguy.com/Good comments
Just remember, using a long life oil is false economy unless you are paying hourly rate to change it.
Long life does not mean better protection; was only developed to increase service intervals, not improve protection at any point up until the recommended change; it was not developed for performance engines, heavy duty use, racing applications or whatever descriptor some marketer might come up with- only for modern engines.
Extending service intervals means suspended contaminants have longer to cause wear in the engine. Filters cannot guard against this better now than they could two decades ago, and oil quality has no effect on this problem.
Replacing the oil regularly is much better than using a longer life oil
Main thing for old engines is high zinc, enough quality that it does not break down before the change interval and lubricates/fills gaps better than a standard oil might.
HPR5 is great oil for engines that use 10W/40. The semi-synth 10W/40 is also very good. The engines I work on are modern designs but 15-20 years old. Far better to change at <10k intervals using this than 15k or more on expensive oils.
I use HPR-5 for my winter changes, and this cheaper stuff in summer http://penriteoil.com.au/products/semi-synthetic-10w-40-semi…
An important issue also is that not many engines have seals that can tolerate synthetic oil for very long. Even new cars that come with fully synth LL oil have seals that may only last 5 years or less in hot countries. When they break down and fail, air gets in, oil leaks out and incorrect combustion (fuel ratios get upset causing poor running and loss of power. When they are changed, aftermarket (OEM), (and even some genuine OE) replacement seals are made from standard butyl rubber formulations, not the more expensive material like Viton.
A semi-synthetic oil may make your seals last a decade longer, so actually down-grading the oil quality to a semi-synthetic (and increasing the change interval) can be a good idea on many modern cars.
BTW SCA also have deals on coolant at the moment too. It must be changed every 2 years or it breaks down and begins to chemically attack the cooling system- rubbers, components and so on, any one of which can cause catastrophic damage.
http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/auto/concentrate-coolant
Just be sure to ONLY buy coolant that meets the manufacturers exact specification, and failing that something recommended by the manufacturer, NOT by some coolant maker, again this is just what some marketer conjures up at 3am to try to maximise sales. Every car has different plastics and alloys in the system and requires a specific chemical to avoid constant chemical attack. Anything that says most cars models is a lie, you need to know if yours is an exception- and in my experience most are :-)
Unless you factor in oil temps.
@Calvin27: Sure, I'm not talking about racing applications, and even then (but not always) a lot of quality semi-synth oils will do almost as well as a full synth oil.
This. End of story. Zerovelocity is spot on IMO. Nothing need more be said. Well maybe just a little…
For my last two oil changes I've also done a flush…i.e drop old oil, fill with whatever cheap oil is available at the time with a bottle of engine flush, run at idle for 20 odd minutes, drop that oil and fill with whatever good oil is on sale at the time. Engine feels like new again and oil stays clear for much longer. Even only 20 minutes of flushing the second lot of oil comes out black.
@LGW: I might give that a shot. Using cheap oil to flush whatever is inside. Would be interesting to see how much crap is in there despite regular oil changes.
@t25: I think you'll be surprised how much junk comes out! A bit of a pain for me as I had to Jack it up, undo nut, put it down, drain oil, Jack back up put nut back on, back down, fill oil, run at idle, etc.
As for whether to add an engine flush product would depend entirely on the your engine as I'd be hesitant to recommend it to anyone as it may flush out all the crap that's sealing the seals and may find some oil leaks start to appear.
@t25: Diesel oil works well for flushing, they are typically a similar formulation with higher detergent properties.
Modern turbo engines wil usually get pretty hot oil temps and even some na applications. Do not confuse oil temps with engine temps.
Can you please recommend a coolant for a 2000 Lancer Glxi auto 1.8L 4D sedan? Prefer something inexpensive as the car is old.
@bargainaus: Sorry, I've got no idea about Mitsus. Look up what Mtsu recommmends (it should be in your book, but if that is not clear, search for official Mitsu service information online, or ask the dealer )
@JF: Nice. Will give it a try next time. I do have some diesel oil at home. Shouldn't take too much effort for me as I just take it to my friend's place who has a hoist. No mucking about with jack stands and trolley jacks
A quick look at their SDS and you'll see that the oil is listed as Distillates, petroleum, hydrotreated heavy paraffinic. This along with the CAS number suggests it is derived from a group 3 base stock. Writing a whole encyclopaedia on this subject a true synthetic oil can be described as one made from group 4 (PAO) and 5 base stock.
FWIW penrite do make a 100% PAO ester oil, their racing range i believe. Never tried it and probably won't as for the price I'd rather change my oil twice using HPR.
Just wait for the next SCA specials to come on Penrite oils. I bought 5 bottles of the racing oil to use in my daily.
Cool, I didn't realise they put them on sale. DO you remember how much they were around?
@LGW: I bought 15w-50 for ~$49 if I am not mistaken. Which I think of as fairly reasonable, given that I currently pay about $40 for HPR in similar weight.
Lol too slow, you win
Better than Castrol Edge?
If they are the same price I'd choose this, that being said, I've got Castrol Edge currently in my car (it was the cheapest at the time)
I would definitely prefer Penrite HPR over Edge.
Off topic but I have a Ford escape 2010 that I haven't serviced in a long time. Car still going fine but looking to get it serviced.
Any info on what gets done in a service. Thinking of buying this and whatever else and getting a mate to do it.
TIA
naturally you'd start with engine oil and filter, check your log books and see what it says mate :)
I bought it in may and it hasn't been serviced since July'16 I think. Don't have logbook
After buying any preowned car, I will do the following: oil, air, fuel, cabin filter, engine oil, brake flush, coolant flush, check everything over. If timing belt driven (pretty sure yours isn't!) check belts, seals, water pump.
Start fresh today and at least you know you are starting on a "clean slate".
You missed transmission fluid
You are right. And at the risk of sounding pedantic, power steering fluid too.
I think that should cover it now.
@t25: hi would you recommend buying them yourself or leave it to the mechanic? I want to use good stuff
@ZubatRingo: Read your user manual to see what your vehicle requires.
I personally prefer to get the stuff myself (but also because I have access to a combined 20000 sq metre warehouse full of aftermarket and genuine goodies). As I know some mechanics might cut corners and use the cheaper stuff and charge full retail.
@ZubatRingo: unless you know a mechanic you can trust at reasonable prices otherwise just do most of them yourself if you know what you are doing or just look up owners manual or YouTube.
Not sure how much the cars worth but as t25 said probably best to get a service done just for a bit of reassurance. oh btw I wouldn't bother about taking it to a dealership, just jump on one of the Ford forums and see if there are any recommended mechanics close to you.
Bought 2 - plenty on the shelf at supercheap Ashfield when I was there earlier today (14/01)
$36.99 EACH
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