Hyundai i30 did I get a 'Good Deal'... or not?

So I just walked away from a garage, and I'm not sure whether it was all too easy… felt like I should have maybe taken much longer and haggled much harder.

TLDR: Paid $17,500 and got $2,500 trade in for my car. For a 2017 i30 Active MY18 in Blue with 30,000km and 3 months rego. Is this a good deal?

So the car had a price in the window of $21,000. Me and the missus had a good look at it, few marks, nothing significant, few stains, but again nothing too significant. Take it out for a drive, goes nicely. History is a little sketchy says it is some sort of company car, but it's done a fair few Kms considering age. Get back into the 'negotiation zone' behind the stark white desk, the Mrs pushes hard to make sure small marks are taken care of and seats are steam cleaned, which makes it onto the contract.

Next thing he says "ok, on road cost including trade in $17,990". Tells me I was getting $2000 for my car… but $21000 - $2000 = $19000 so I'm not sure where that $1000 went? Next thing I say look I'd really been after $2500 for car, then he says $17500 and I'm shaking his hand. Contract signed.

Should I have fought harder? Why did that first $1000 just drop off? Have I been played? I don't know a thing about buying cars over here!

I can still bail out for 1% of the purchase cost so it isn't too late.

Any help much appreciated.

Poll Options expired

  • 2
    You got a good deal I reckon.
  • 10
    You should have haggled more.
  • 17
    Nah, you got ripped off take advantage of that 1% cooling off and start looking again.

Comments

  • +2

    Is this a good deal?

    As the deal is done, it doesn't really matter does it?

    Enjoy the car and stop worrying.

    • -1

      Don't we OZB folk worry about tiny amounts?! This much is just plain scary.

      • +1

        wait till you buy a house then ;)

        • Man, scares the hell out of me!

        • @cc789:

          just get 1 at auction

          that way, you know you can't do better in haggling a better price
          (Apart from backing off to wait for next house / market timing)

  • Was it an ex rental vehicle?

    So I just walked away from a garage

    Dealership or garage?

    Bit hard to tell whether a deal as details of trade in are not provided. I30 may have been offset by trade in profit.

    • It was a dealership, and I don't think the car I traded in will pull more than $4500 for them.

  • +1

    Most likely exrental at the age/kms - vheck the logbook and see who the first owner was (if there is a logbook - if there isnt, run because you wont have engine warranty).

    Main rental players are:
    Hertz Australia
    WTH Pty Ltd (Avis/Budget)
    Kingsmill Pty Ltd (Thrifty)
    Not too sure what europcar are.

    Id suggest googling any name anyway - could be a rental franchise car too.

    For what its worth, there are hyundai dealers advertising new auto i30 Actives for $22k on carsales.

  • What does red book say?

    • What’s red book?

  • You signed, you thought it was ok. Don’t second guess yourself. You are happy with the car and the price try to move on.

    In my experience I’ve offered what I thought was a low amount and they’ve accepted too quickly. Makes me think I didn’t haggle enough, but at the time thought it was a reasonable low offer.

    • So hard to tell though isn’t it. I want them to hurt!

  • +1

    What's the difference between a good deal and bad deal here… $1000?

    Imo whatever you got, just move on and save yourself any more hassle.

    (i dont know if u got a good deal or not, but perhaps u didn't get such a bad deal as u think.. U haggled, and u probably got a reasonable deal)

  • +5

    The advertised price of $21,000 was well over the top.
    In Jan last year I paid $20,000 for a brand new 2017 MY 2018, i30 Active.
    Having done 30k I also would want to make sure it is not an ex-rental car

    • How can I check if it is ex rental without literally going back to the place? I reckon that’s what it must have been

      • Who was the previous owner? Rental companies often use a different name for buying their cars so it won't say Hertz/Thrifty etc. If you ask the salesman what that company does they will claim to have no idea.

      • Check the service book, it might have the previous owners details in it

  • Was probably online for cheaper than window price? I dunno

  • Dealer has great margin for selling second hand cars, usually 10% ~15% negotiate rate and it is really depend on how attached to the car you look in front of the dealer. Remeber every day the car not sell in their yard is another day lose in interest and depreciation.

    I wouldnt trade in as you will 100% get more by private sell but you will need to wait for the right person and price to come.

  • Your first mistake was not checking Redbook which might have given you an idea as to the true value of the car, not whatever they stuck on the window. Secondly, you should have separated the trade-in from the sale because it's another opportunity for them to screw you. From the sound of it, they overvalued the car while also low-balling you on the trade-in; you're right, it does sound too easy.

  • Probably should've haggled more - seems a bit high for a car w/ 30k

  • I think you should get out of it and start fresh.

    • I reckon you're right… and the Mrs does…

  • +1

    "" I don't know a thing about buying cars over here! ""
    Buying cars here is virtually the same as in any other country…!!!

    H I30's are about $20k NEW.
    The sticker price of $21k on yours was a top loader.. ie: sucker bait for anyone with a trade in.
    Wholesale the car was worth $15k? so after his profit margin of say $2k he would have had $4k to play with… even after offering $2k for your T/in he was laughing.

    Before you buy any reasonably new USED car check the best price for a new one.
    With a new car you can sometimes push for a higher trade in also.
    Don't discount the benefits of a new car either… they incude 12mths rego & ctp, all the consumables are 100% (tyres, battery, etc), full factory warranty plus you know the history of the car and how it has NOT been driven.

    When buying a car with a trade in work our your happy change over price and go for that.

    If you can't get out of this deal then just remember the lesson.
    If unsure about doing a deal like this… make a rule to "sleep on it" for a day or two before signing the contract.

    • Yeah it’s annoying that I did feel pressured into not ‘sleeping on it’ could have saved $200 during that sleep!

  • +1

    Surely this is nuts?

    I thought the i30 active brand new is only $20,990?

    • +1

      It is very common for young used cars in dealerships to have a higher starting price than new.
      I have seen many that have blindly jumped in only to find later that they could have had a new one for a lot less.
      They rely on impulse buyers.

  • Ok I’ve cancelled the purchase thanks for all the advice guys/girls much appreciated.

    • Ouch just lost an Xbox One S.

      • Better than losing 1000s of eneloops.

  • Can I offer some advice.

    Watch some John Cadogan YOUtube videos. Autoexpert.

    Do your research before signing any contract or giving a deposit.

    There are plenty of I30s out there so don't be too in love with a car as there will almost certainly be another one around the corner. Try researching on carsales for particular models and watch their prices. The longer the car is sitting on that website the more leverage you have.

    Given near EOFY it's the best time to do the research and go into the dealer late at the end of the month. Know what you want to buy and pay.

    I am no expert as even with JCs help I still got ripped off. My wife wanted a particular colour and type of car. In the end I found her one. Not 100% with the features she wanted, but it was that badge factor that she also wanted. But we will likely have this car for a long time so the outlay should be offset overtime for the depreciation. Also dont second guess yourself with doubt. Buy whatever car and then move on. Dont start looking for cheaper ones to find our what it should have costed. That should have been done before going into dealer.

    Also the sticker prices at dealers are higher then carsales reduced ones. So dont get too excited when they knock of 1k without blinking when they have already reduced that price on carsales way before. Its to make you feel better. Like you are getting a great deal.

    • My wife wanted a particular colour and type of car

      Range Rover Evoque?

      • Something like that. I did all the research on spec & model. She did all test drive. I never drove the car and still haven't as it's her car. She would always come up with odd things she didnt like about each car till we found the right one.

        If I drove it we would have ended up with a V8 Rangie in black with white interior.

  • Man, it is hard to bail out just FYI. My contract said I must let them know in writing, sent an email to the general store address. Called them up to confirm receipt "sorry you need to send it to the guy who sold you it" managed to find his email address, sent it through, called him to confirm receipt. "Sorry it needs to go through to the sales manager, he can call you tomorrow". Sales manager calls up "sorry it needs to go through to the general manager". What the hell? This whole thing has been a pressure pit from the moment I stepped foot in the yard and continues now.

    • +3

      Lol now they're just having fun with ya

    • Man that sucks. Hope things work out for you in the end.

  • +1

    Just write an email cc everyone in it.

    If you paid your $200 via credit card, perhaps check whether you can do a charge back.

    I dont understand, did you not do a quick research first on the i30?

  • So for those who were following this with baited breath, I got charged the $200 for canceling, had the remainder of the deposit refunded.

    Ended up buying a 2016 Mazda 3 SP25 GT with 18,000km for $22,900 from a dealer that I liked.

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