Buying a Used BMW 1 Series Convertible

I'm thinking of buying a Used 2013-2012 1 series BMW convertible.
Does anyone have any suggestion around maintenance costing?
Reliability of a 5-6yr old car?
Should I completely stay away from BMW, as I have read some discouraging things about them.
Thinking of buying from a dealer so at least have 3 month warranty, any advice with dealing with dealers?

https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/BMW-120i-2012/OAG…
https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/BMW-120i-2013/OAG…

Thanks in advanced for the advice.

Comments

  • +7

    Thinking of buying from a dealer so at least have 3 month warranty, any advice with dealing with dealers?

    Yes, don't put too much emphasis on that 3 month warranty. Even if the engine blows up on the second day, they're going to tell you it's your fault and you need to pay.

    Spend some of the extra money (over what you would be pay buying it privately) on checking the car and it's worthiness properly BEFORE committing to buy.

    • +8

      Bought a used car from a dealer, within 1 week the engine blew. Dealer replaced the engine and provided a loan car for the 4 + weeks while it was being fixed. You might find the stat warranty is pretty good.

      • For every story with a happy ending like yours, there would be stacks that don't end so well.

        • +2

          Yeah the 3 month warranty is fine. Just get it checked by RAA/NRMA/RAC etc and then at least you'll have someone to back you up. Costs around $200ish been a few years since I've had it done but was well worth it.

        • +1

          @treeman:
          I had a RAC check done on a private buy and the check was very limited. No more than I did myself. I thought they might do simple stuff like compression check etc, but just a brief look over. I would be reluctant to pay for that again, however I have worked on a few of my own cars so I know some things to look out for.
          They are worth it for the inexperienced but certainly not that comprehensive.

        • +2

          For every story with a happy ending like yours, there would be stacks that don't end so well.

          That's true, but it could go the other way too - for every horror story you hear of, there might be stacks that went perfectly well.

          Humans just tend to complain more than praise. If a company or product stuffs up on them, they'll be shouting from the hills. But if everything went along 100% perfectly, they'd be just enjoying the car or product and not seeking out a forum to voice their displeasure.

          Out of 100,000 used cars sold, there could be 1,000 horror stories. Those 1,000 people will make sure everyone and their dog knows about the company/brand that stuffed them up, but the other 99,000 perfectly happy customers likely aren't going to look for a website and write a post saying "everything is great". So if you do a search online, you're definitely going to find lots of complaints.

        • @eug: so true

    • +7

      My sister in-law sold her BMW X3 after finding out the engine need replacing. Feel sorry for the poor soul who bought it from her. She never took her car to service just to save a few dollars, want luxury but not willing to spend, rich people wannabe.

      I dont like my sister in-law nor do I like my brother.

      • Nice username!

      • LoL, family shame…

        European cars are so finiky

        Any major service would cost a fortune

      • The person who ever bought the car must be insane buying without proper service history.

    • +1

      Australian Consumer Law covers used vehicles dudes. The warranty provided through law will be more than 3 months.

      • Australian Consumer Law covers used vehicles dudes. The warranty provided through law will be more than 3 months.

        Not for used cars … impossible to prove the condition it was in when you bought it and that it wasn't caused by the purchaser. You might claim ACL on 3months and 1 day, but no chance of claiming it at 3months and 1 week.

    • +1

      Spend some of the extra money (over what you would be pay buying it privately) on checking the car and it's worthiness properly BEFORE committing to buy.

      There isn't an inspection that a mechanic can do to tell you whether the engine/transmission is going to fail. It would be difficult to make that call, even if you pull apart the engine to take a look on the inside.

      • There's no perfect way to check the car, but there's signs and things to look out for to maximise the chances of getting a decent running car rather than simply buying a car and relying on the used car warranty if things go wrong.

  • a 5-6year old BMW is a time when it starts to fall apart. Things go wrong in a bmw that is unheard of in a jap car such as rust under the drivers seat in certain models. This is a hit or miss for you, there are people who have been lucky on the other hand.

    • +21

      Things go wrong in a bmw that is unheard of in a jap car such as rust under the drivers seat in certain models.

      What utter BS…

      OP, you are asking on the wrong platform.

      Most people on here don’t care about their car as long as it works.

      The bmw will be a fine purchase. Yes it will cost more than a corolla to maintain.

      Get a specialist to inspect it and there should be no problems

    • +11

      this is terrible advice - where is the evidence a 5yr old BMW starts to fall apart? or is this just subjective opinion .. facts are needed sidewinder1

      • +2

        Facts are here: https://www.consumerreports.org/car-maintenance/the-cost-of-…
        3 Year old BMW, alls good. Everything goes to shit after that.

        • +1

          You do like your stats wafer thin ;-)

          Those are facts about cars made in two production years only, 2007 and 2014. Every manufacturer has its bad years and guess what, 2007 was one of the worst for BMW: American factories were in full swing (the worst BMWs ever made), combined with record sales of X3 & X5 (category leading crossovers) which might be the best SUV to drive, but a really bad one to work on, or own because of the way their design & production teams (failed to) work together.

          If you wanted a survey to compare the maintenance costs of brands without such a huge amount of annual error, you'd need to take the average costs of those two ages each year for some time, and even then it is so model dependent that you'd need to be testing every year for anyone to be able to get anywhere close to what a new car today might cost at those ages.

          Another aspect that skews this is that some people choose to spend: A 10yo BMW will cost a lot to service because they need a lot of wear items replaced, and BMW service program will do every one and charge accordingly. If the work would be too costly to make it worthwhile for an old one, these service depts usually send you to an independent. OTOH, who takes a 10yo car to a Toyota dealership to have it maintained? How could that even be worth the cost? After 3 years most are at the indys. BMW people see the cost differently however, as most bought it for a reason and actually want to know their car is maintained properly.

          Owners of other cars who don't DIY, most commonly accept a half-job done, prefer it to be done on the cheap, and it is not uncommon for wear items to be in a dangerous state to warrant replacement.

          For example, I can't remember the last time I met someone with a BMW who opted to 'just have the brake pads replaced', unless they got royally ripped, or who turned up at the workshop with a pad down to the metal. I've seen people drive a Toyota with rear pads on the metal for >2 years after being so upset about the front ones costing $400. The question I have is why on earth would you 'just do the front ones', or 'what about the shocks and bushings'? These days fewer mechanics risk doing only the front of rear brakes, but when they used to, it was only to save money!

    • +5

      You obviously have never owned a German car. There are plenty of 10-20+ old German cars on our roads not to mention some stretching back to the 80's. If you follow the proper maintenance its fine. Japanese cars more reliable in some respects but what you've said about 5-6 yo BMW's falling about is complete ignorant bs

      • +10

        The problem is that the older ones were built better than the late models.

        • +3

          And had less electronic bells and whistles that could fail, and had less strained engines which increase failures over time, etc.

    • +2

      Spot on. If the indicator is not on right, too unreliable "new" let alone second hand.
      The age old saying still applies, if you can not afford a NEW BMW then you certainly cannot afford a second hand one.

      Long gone are the times you would look to the Europeans for quality.

      Toyota, Hyundai, Mazda and Honda are reliable enough to gamble second hand.

      But if you are still young then go for it, they are great cars to drive.

      • +1

        It doesn't matter where the indicator switch is on a BMW since the driver is too self-important to use it anyway.

    • +2

      I was driving a 1995 BMW 318i right up until February last year.

      The only reason I got rid of it was because the aircon had just packed up and their was paint rust on the bonnet.

      The car was fine other than that and turns out when I went to scrap the car, the guy scrapping it ended up doing the repairs and gave it to his daughter.

    • +1

      Going by that logic, it is not just BMW but ANY 5-6 year old Convertible will start to fall apart. So you just ruled out all used cars !!

      • +1

        So you just ruled out all used cars !!

        A quick search on Carsales revealed thousands of used cars for sale that's less than 5 years old.

  • +4

    Interesting choice. Any particular reason you want to buy a 6 year old car for over 23k? Is it because it's a convertible?

    You can get a 2016 Mazda MX5 for around the same price.

    • +7

      worlds apart

      • +8

        Indeed, a mazda caters more towards reliability and less towards massaging ones ego.

    • +2

      backseats

    • +2

      @phunkydude is right, I wanted to get a convertible with 4 seats. Unfortunately not many Jap cars have convertible models. Only one I can think of is the MX5 and that is two seater.

      • I can't imagine those rear passengers having any leg room

        • they are actually ok, more space than say the back of a BRZ

        • @boostpak:

          That's not saying much 😂

          All depends on how tall the driver/passenger are. I'm 6'3, if I'm driving there's no way anyone is behind me in a convertible

        • +1

          @Spackbace: I'm 6'2 and have owned a 1 series, 3 series and x6. I have been able to fit people fine in the back seats with me driving with all cars.. so yeah you're wrong mate. Why don't you actually test it before actually laughing you galah. They are between a holden commodore and a BRZ which is fine for most people to fit in the back of. My comment was actually taking a bit of a jab at the 86/brz which back seats don't fit very much.

      • There are… a few. But you're right, not too many 4 seater ones. Alongside the MX5, there's the Honda S2K, but that's a 2 seater too. Someone else mentioned the Lexus convertible, but if sporty is what you want, I wouldn't recommend Lexus. Even their concept Lexus super cars are more grand tourers / luxury cruisers than sporty drivers' cars. They're comfortable, drive well and fast, but in terms of top speed and high speed performance, not acceleration or super-sportiness.

      • +3

        Please do your research on convertibles. Hire one out a few times, first. They look sexy, but so much can go wrong, especially leaks and poor seals.
        I am on the road a fair bit, and you rarely see anyone with the roof down (except some dirty old men).

        Cars a personal choice, I found I was too tall for most convertibles. Just do your research and rent one out for a few days. You may need to rent a newer model, but you will get the idea.

        Driving one day to day, is very different from a 1 off spin on the weekend.

    • +2

      These are a bit left field and it might be hard to actually find one for sale, but Infinti sold/sell a Q60 in a convertible with 4 seats. These are made in Japan with a Nissan 3.7litre engine with 235kw.

      How about one of those?

      • imagine trying to sell a used one of these in a few years down the track…

        • Or fixing a minor running problem when you start or come off gear, etc. Go have a look at the Service information used by BMW (humanly readable, even the English version, all with troubleshooting and repair procedures and other things to check, links to the part numbers and wiring diagrams)

          Look at what Japan manos 'make available' to Dealers, let alone indies, and weep!

  • +2

    Lol good reason most dealers avoid euro brands once they're outside factory warranty.

    Make sure you have spare cash for when something goes wrong

  • +17

    Oh god, I can't think of a worse used car to buy, to be honest:

    1. BMW - not the best in terms of longevity;
    2. 5-6 years old - definitely out of warranty period, about the time when things start failing even in decent (European) cars;
    3. Convertible - far more potential issues in terms of moving parts that could fail, leaks and water issues;
    4. 1-series - cheaper than other models, and since it's convertible, prime candidate for previous owners to thrash the hell out of.

    If you buy it, I'd put aside an extra $10,000 (not exaggerating) for possible repairs and parts.

    • +7

      @allahazam Get the car independently mechanically inspected.
      Ensure the service book is filled in with no missing intervals. Stamped.
      Allow at least another $3k for any fixes that might be required in next 12mths.
      Check timing belt and water pump replaced. Might be coming up to replacement again depending on milage. Usually every 4 years by time.
      Check for any body damage in the engine bay as well for any tel tail signs of respray. Look for rust.
      Check roof operation and rubber seals.
      Test drive for a reasonable time over various road conditions and speed limits.
      If when you drive it and it feels sus or not right. Walk away. I test drove a TT convert and on highway it was making some odd noise at 100k/hr. Also the new wheels they put on were the cheapest tyres you could buy.

      Its second hand. No different to buying any used car. Due diligence. Know what you are buying. Also dont get to hooked on the one car. There are plenty of used BMW 1 converts. Im sure you will find a good one just check carefully

      • -1

        All very good advice that OP should follow, though I slightly disagree on two points:

        1. A lot of time-related mechanical wear and tear issues, and also electrical issues, will show no prior signs before failing, or might be unnoticeable without long-term use.

        2. "Its second hand. No different to buying any used car." - this isn't exactly true. While used cars differ on a case-by-case basis, looking at averages you would have a much better chance of buying a reliable Japanese car than a reliable European car.

        But you're right - if OP is set on this model, your suggestions are all that OP can do. Also, yeah $3,000 is a more reasonable amount to keep handy, but if OP actually needs this car for anything, like work or school…

      • @Dedbny, Thanks for your advice. Will definitely take it into consideration when I go look at cars. One dealer is pushing that the electronic log book is completed, but honestly it sounds shady. Especially since the vehicle he is selling is 2013 with only 26000kms. With only onboard log book, which he can edit.

        • +2

          Yeah I'm very dubious of how BMW are now doing the service records, by deleting the books, but that is how they are going it now.

          With those Kms its only 5k km per year. Thats like using it every second week to pick up the kids. Second car maybe? Doesnt mean its completly dodgy just needs to be looked at.

          As for the 3mth warranty. You will just have an uphill battle to get them to fix it. The pre purchase mechanical test and inspections are where its important. The bushings and bearing needs to be checked for wear. If they are ok for example that is 1 less thing to worry about.

          The 3k is for unknown things that may happen. Or start to save a monthly amount for repairs. If the car is off the road due to issues. Not really much you can do about it once yourve got it and the shit hits the fan.

          @highanddry Agree with both points hence why the $3k suggestion for emergency. Go Japanese 100%, but in this instance I cant think of any 4 seat convertible by a Japanese car maker in that size. There are Euro options VW EOS Audi A3. But there are brands that I would stay away from given the current issues with those makes.

        • There is no issue with a digital logbook. If its been serviced at the dealer call them up and ask for a copy of its history. Much more trust worthy that a book in the glovebox.

      • It has timing chain most likely. If it is a belt I wouldn't touch it at all. Avoid it. If thoroughly inspected by buyer for above and + leaks of engine bay and transmission, panels , paint and driven as you advised the car should be ok. The problems I had inspecting BMWs are engine (leaks , knocks) , transmition leaks. If the engine was used harsh more chances for leaks and other engine problems. Had this before. Told myself never buy BMW from a young man. One need to check panels and paint for potential accidents, engine , smoke and drive it in different conditions (humps/ uneven road and Hwy)
        I would agree the BMW is not the best choice from the popular 3 (bmw, audi and merc) years back Audi was No 4 best quality, Merc- 7, BMW way bellow 14. This year BMW is No. 5 (2 series), audi -4 (Q3 is the best), Mercedes - 14 (issues with GLC and SLA , the best is E class.) The BMW 2 series is the sporty one of the 3rd. Maybe there is convertibles as well. But it is more newer model and would be more expensive. Living in Australia I am very sure there is no need for convertible car at all, unless it is a second car for fun. The sun is hot during the day , the nights are cool. a sunroof or panoramic sunroof is a must IMO and cheaper.

    • where is this 5-6 year figure coming from? can you show some evidence that every BMW fails at that point? why would you need to put 10k away for repairs and parts, maybe if you go to a bmw dealer to get things fixed they will of course rip you. But if you go to a normal good mechanic, then it will be like any other car. Parts ordered off bursons also.

      • -1

        $10k is admittedly the worst-case scenario and if OP needs the car - say for a job or for school - and don't have any alternatives. But as to the reliability?

        https://www.prescottimportcar.com/buying-a-used-bmw/

        Consumer Reports rates the 2008 1-Series as average when it comes to reliability. Over a five–year timeframe, the cost of upkeep and repairs for the 2008 128i couple runs more than $15,000, according to Edmunds.com.

        Note - that's the average (not even a worse than average case), this is from a US site, so that's $15,000 in US Dollars, and with US parts prices (cheaper), and US labor rates (also cheaper). The 2008 1-series is the same one, scroll up and it says it's the E88 model convertible (which is what OP is looking at). Oh, did I mention convertibles generally cost more to maintain?

        If OP has a requirement of a 4-door convertible in this price range, then yes, this is honestly one of the better options. But OP should go in knowing what the risks are.

        • -2

          Instead of linking random american sites with the opinion of one person (article writer), how about showing some real facts - those who have actually owned them!. Take this for example - http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/bmw/1-series/reliability
          rating on build quality and reliablity (most people having owned the car in your figure of 5-6yrs giving the car 5/5 ratings).

          It's like you're just scared of something you've read or what someone has told you. I've owned plenty of used beemers for 5 years at a time and haven't had an inch of an issue.

          When I have serviced them, it has been at a good local mechanic who gets cheaper parts from bursons at wholesale costs. If you take it to a BMW dealer, you will get stung on all grounds.

          So yes, it is a good car and won't cost you that much more to run compared to a normal corolla if you take it to a quality cheaper mechanic and you look after it.

        • +7

          @boostpak:

          most people having owned the car in your figure of 5-6yrs

          Then you've pretty much missed the point. I'm not worried about ownership years 1-6. I'm worried for OP who's going to be owning the car for years 6 - X. And I'm not quoting a random online blogger - this is a nationwide car dealership so they have every reason to speak well of used cars and literally no reason to speak badly of them. And they're quoting from Consumer Reports which is very widely respected.

          And against that you have…. user reviews from a random UK site (after criticizing me for using a US one?), from a sample the majority of whom have owned it 1-3 years? Com'on now. I'm sure there are good arguments for BMWs being reliable, but you're not doing a job of making that argument here.

          Edit: Sorry, I just noticed you said this:

          and won't cost you that much more to run compared to a normal corolla

          ….. I can't. I really just…. cant.

        • @HighAndDry:
          You talk so much bulldust out of your rear end mate. Citing a website that has one opinion which is negative towards used bmws. Why don't you actually own one for 1-6 years, then continue to own it from 6-10 years… and then TALK.
          It's all just your opinion and citing random articles. We get it, you're cheap, but that doesn't mean you have to bag out good things that people want.

          I have in the past owned a one series for 7.5yrs and guess what issues I had… none. My uncle also owned a used one for 4 years the car being 5 years old when purchased, guess how many problems he had? hmmm I think you get the point.

          The problem is people just talking based on how their subjectivity is towards cars/brands - rather then doing actual research or having ownership of a specific model and going through what it costs to own that car and how reliable that car is.

          Users above saying
          "seals start to rust under the drivers seat" - what the even?!?
          "3 Year old BMW, alls good. Everything goes to shit after that" - just utter BS, completely subjective opinion don't listen to this shi*t
          "moving parts that could fail, leaks and water issues" - this literally can happen in any vehicle LOL
          "prime candidate for previous owners to thrash the hell out of" - again LOL can happen in any single vehicle on the road. What a absolutely rubbish comment to make.

          You do your research, you thoroughly inspect the car, get an inspection report done, if further worries take it to your mechanic for a test. I'd be more worried the beating a used corolla or commodore would have over a nice bmw. People with nice luxury cars for the most part don't thrash them as they are wanting them to stay in nice condition and are usually not hoons (this is from my 40+ years on australian roads seeing how drivers and cars drive)

      • It may sound excessive but having owned a few German cars some of the parts can be excessively expensive. Diesels for example can have DPF failures which can easily cost upwards of 5k. Some of the Auto gearboxes can be again upwards of 5k to replace if they fail. While these may not be applicable to the OP its best to have some money stashed aside when owning a german car outside of warranty.

        • Er, fuel preparation systems in high efficiency diesel engines are a nightmare to service, no matter who made them. Cracking one open requires a hermetically sealed workshop, quite literally.

          Auto gearboxes are expensive to make and replace period. Japanese included, and again, no matter who makes them. And that said, I'd buy ZF over any, as do Mercedes, BMW and Volvo. I kid you not, these boxen are the reason you don't see a Sydney bus broken down on every daily commute.

          Also parts prices are not OTT for BMWs, unless you can't use the Internet or choose to buy through BMW Australia's supply chain. (They have their head deep up the ass of their Bankers every time they decide how much more to charge). But you do have to buy from overseas instead, or OEM via the aftermarket.

          All that said, I've never NOT been horrified by the Australian pricing that all auto-manufacturers charge for parts, especially the Japanese ones! They put Gerry Harvey to shaaaaame!

        • @resisting the urge:

          I've never NOT been horrified by the Australian pricing that all auto-manufacturers charge for parts, especially the Japanese ones! They put Gerry Harvey to shaaaaame!

          Needed a new passenger electric window motor for my 350z and contacted 2 Nissan dealers. One wanted $600 for the part, one wanted $750. Ordered it online and got it sent to my house direct from Japan brand new OEM part for $320.

        • @Agret:
          there you go, you can do that for any european car too… too many know-it-alls on here who are camry obsessed

        • +1

          @Agret:@Agret. Precisely. Last VW Golf I did was $47 for a winder mech (no motor). BMW, $60. Motors I never need to replace, they just never seem to fail. Only the brushes in the cabin fan blower need replacement >20 years.

          30 years ago a new indicator stalk and switch for a Ford Falcon was $53. Had to fix an Australian made Toyota Corona, similar age, and a model that was made from kit in Toyota's Melbourne factory. New indicator stalk: $224 ex Toyota, trade price. Back in the seventies it only cost about 8x as much if you wanted to spend 2 months building a car out of spare parts at trade price. Before computers were used to automate design, production and inventory. Now, you'd spend millions and there'd still be plenty of items they'd have trouble finding and providing.

          They've only gotten worse over the years these guys- making parts cost more. Auto manufacturers care about competitive parts pricing just Enough only to withhold service info and limit distribution. That is why so many companies around the world make huuuuge amounts making, buying and selling aftermarket parts. eBay alone would turnover Beeellions on autoparts. Why don't the auto manufacturers have a genuine parts hub, where anyone can go for accredited parts, delivered quickly at a fair price? They would make the investment back in no time.

          If auto companies were just reasonable, insurance costs would reduce, aftermarket would have less of a chance and the quality of parts used by repairers might improve (reducing waste, especially the retirement of the national fleet, massively)

    • +3

      Some people here are absolutely talking out of their ass. I'm a former BMW owner and have owned a lot of different cars. Let's rebut these points shall we?

      1. BMWs are fantastic in terms of longevity. Consumer Reports from the States say that BMW is ranked 5th for reliability. Above Subaru, Honda, Hyundai, Nissan, Mazda for example. I'm sure anyone on here would recommend one of those brands before BMW.

      2. This point is true for all cars, and is the reason why people look for well-maintained, good condition cars. Easy to negate, BMW or Corolla.

      3. Again, this is true, but if OP wants a convertible, it will be true for all cars. Again, why people look for well-maintained, good condition cars. Not to mention, this isn't the first convertible BMW has made. There are 1980s 3 Series convertibles running around that work just fine with no leaks.

      4. 1 Series are cheaper, yes, but that doesn't really mean anything in this context. OP has linked us two examples of these cars, both with understressed (same engine is used in the significantly heavier 3 Series and some 5 Series) 2.0L 4 bangers that have double digit zero-100km/h times. Absolutely not prime candidates for people to thrash. When you think of the typical BMW convertible owner, I don't imagine a car enthusiast with a lead foot. I imagine a rich middle aged woman who barely drives the thing and takes it to the mechanic when the windscreen washer runs out of fluid.

      10k is utterly ridiculous in terms of a maintenance fund. Yes, parts cost more than on a Corolla because there are fewer cars (in Australia). Parts are generally sourced from Europe, where there is no shortage of them, as small BMWs are not 'luxury' vehicles there. I think you would have to try, quite hard, to get 10k worth of repairs on a car like this. On a 1990 BMW say… 5 or 7 Series? Absolutely, a few things break on an older, rarer German car and you'll be in trouble. But not this. Let's stop spreading rumours.

      • +5

        Consumer Reports from the States say that BMW is ranked 5th for reliability(kathmandu.com.au).

        Just to clarify, that link currently points to: https://www.kathmandu.com.au/mens/clothing/jackets-and-vests…

        • Ha! Thanks mate. Fixed here.

        • @jrowls: Thanks. Good read. Only issue I have is that it's an updated score based on "Predicted reliability". Unfortunately for OP - the 1 series was discontinued from 2014 onwards, and so BMW's current reliability really doesn't help him. And also - the measure is not great as it comes to long-term ownership in the sense of OP's owning it past the car's 6th year. As an indication of where it was though, BMW moved up 5 spots from 2016, meaning it was in 9th just over a year ago. Don't know if there's a place to look at historical reliability.

      • +1

        Agreed there is a lot of scare mongering going on here but hey, if I was going to buy a german car outside of warranty I would be sure to have some $$$ stashed away, not 10k but 3k for sure. I have had a few things go wrong on an old 3 series as well as a second hand golf which were a couple grand each to fix.

        They are more expensive to maintain and servicing will be more but I don't think there is an issue with german reliability if maintained and serviced properly.

  • +1

    If you end up buying, please provide us with your experience & cost!

  • good choice OP, good reviews on the cars, economical, look great, very nice interiors and smooth drive, reliable engine.

  • +11

    a lot of these guys in here just drive either old beat up 20 year old cars, or a toyota corolla for their entire lifetime, to them saving money is and always will be the main priority in life.

    • +2

      Does a Lexus count as a Toyota? If so… then guilty as charged.

      But with a car, it's not so much just saving money. I like cars - I spend a lot of money on cars that I probably shouldn't if my aim is to save money. But I do it so that I can enjoy driving, and having a broken down car, or a car that always has issues, defeats that purpose.

      Others here might disagree, but I'd honestly rather OP shelled out more for a new, or within warranty, BMW 1-series than risk $26k-plus on a 6 year used one.

      • I question the authority of anyone who wants a luxury vehicle and goes to a Lexus dealership

        • You know what L in Lexus stands for?

          I like both BMW and Lexus.

    • I sell cars for a living, and have worked with a few different brands as well as used cars where I've seen many different makes and models.

      I've seen what happens with euro cars after a few years. I've seen what cars to avoid and what not to. You think owning a car is better than the number of cars I've seen/driven/valued? Bugger off lol you don't have any idea.

      But feel free to try to justify your opinion by bagging everyone else's opinion if that's the only way you know how. You do you.

      • um yeah it is better, because I go through the servicing/maintenance for a long period of time 3-7 years, do you do that? you are a salesman, who has the company service the car for sell-able condition and you try and sell it. You don't drive that car for many years actually knowing the true reliability and maintenance of that car. Why don't you bugger off and go talk more bs to sell a car.

        • +3

          Lol I've seen how they are when they're traded, and valued. You know, that purchase stage before it hits the lot?

          But you've had less than 10 to form an opinion on? Congrats 😂

        • You're fairly angry about this huh

      • +2

        I don't sell cars for a living. I work in research and am familiar with a thing called sample error. In its simplest form, it's the degree to which your limited sample size displays differing characteristics than the overall population size.

        It doesn't matter how experienced you are in the industry if you're operating on a snapshot of information - your experience and the experience of your colleagues will likely be a drop in the proverbial bucket of what goes on around the world in vehicle mechanics. To say "I've seen or experienced this and therefore this is what happens everywhere" is honestly naive.

        With that said, it would be VERY insightful and helpful if you could speak from experience beyond your own - i.e., if you have been given access to national or international longitudinal data on mechanical faults across a variety of brands and models. That would legitimately be highly informative regarding people's potential buying decisions :)

        • Or I can just give an opinion based on my experience…

          Welcome to the internet, where opinions mean everything and proof is meaningless

          Why does my opinion need to be based off facts that can be proven? I don't see you asking others to do the same.

        • @Spackbace:
          stick to talking lies and twisting information to sell cars and let us real long term owners of the vehicle(s) in question give insightful answers on our experience

        • +1

          @boostpak:

          You've owned 1 BMW, your uncle has owned 1. Come back when you have more examples.

        • +1

          @boostpak: That makes no sense. If you're trying to criticize him because he sells cars for a living, why would he be talking DOWN the quality of used cars?! If anything, that hurts his business and should be more credible.

        • @Spackbace:
          I've owned 3 BMWs all for long periods of time, so again stick to lies and twisting information to sell cars. No one trusts a car salesman.

        • @HighAndDry:
          Look who it is, the guy that is the used bmw expert, having never owned one in his life, yet speaks like he's been a bmw technician for 60 years. Actually have no clue mate.

        • +1

          @boostpak: This would be a good argument, if it didn't come from someone who's owned 3 BMWs in his life and trying to dismiss the advice of someone who deals with and sells used cars for a living… (which would involve dealing with more than 3 used BMWs).

        • @boostpak:

          3? Wowwww impressive!

          I've seen easily more than 20 get appraised, some getting kept on the lot some not. Have spoken to the owners of more than 20. Have also worked with many a buyer/used car manager and know their experience of differing brands.

          But 3 cars? Holy hell you're an expert! You should write a book about your extensive knowledge based on 3 cars!

        • +1

          @boostpak:

          https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/380204?page=2#comment-5977…

          Having sold cars in the past (different brands)

          Either you lie about selling (and subsequently failing), or you're 1 of these people we supposedly can't trust.

          Want to have a go at my profession in a lame attempt to further your argument when you've done the exact same job? Yeah nice one.

          Now off you go, go resort to a few more persons insults since you can't argue your point based off 3 cars owned :) yet you didn't see BMWs/MB etc get wholesaled out coz they were pieces of shit? Sure sure…

        • @HighAndDry:
          that would be a good argument, however I was referring to you in those comments about look who it is..

        • @Spackbace:
          Yeah 3 all for long periods of time - something you HAVEN'T done. That's the key here, the period of time in ownership - not a handover to sale. To fully know what a car is like, it's true reliability, it's true costs, it's true drive, you have to have owned that car for years. Not be an appraiser smh. I've spoken to well over 20 owners from close friends, to family members to coworkers who have owned BMWs used and new, so I guess my tally goes up from 3 to 40+ in your eyes.

        • @Spackbace:
          right, because no other car brand in the history of car brands has ever been wholesaled out for being pieces of shit.. good one mate, champion.

        • @Spackbace: guess you got told

  • Merged from BMW 1 Series Vs Toyota 86/BRZ Buying a Used Car

    I was wondering if anyone had their input regarding which of these two vehicles would be best to purchase.

    I need to get a Automatic unfortunately as my brother will be borrowing my car for the first 6 months, he can't drive manual and don't want him to learn on a new car.

    Vehicle 1

    BMW
    Used 2013-2012 1 series BMW convertible with on average 70,000km prices around 23-24000.
    120i or 118d. Convertible

    https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/BMW-120i-2012/OAG…
    https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/BMW-120i-2013/OAG…

    Toyota 86
    GTS or GT, not fussy.
    Around 20000km for around 24000-25000
    https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Toyota-86-2013/OA…
    https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Toyota-86-2016/OA…

    For a similar price, I am able to get a significantly newer vehicle, Japanese built. Possibly even 3 years newer. I lose out on the 'prestige' of a BMW.
    I am split as I wish there was a convertible option in the 86.

    • +4

      lexus sc430

    • Hyundai i20

    • +3

      Ok now that you are looking at Japanse and 2 doors. Go Mazda MX5.

      • backseats

        • +3

          We got OP to consider brands other than BMW, we can change his mind on this too!

          (Ok but seriously I kind of agree - backseats which are basically useless can still be handy in that one or two times you need to give someone a ride, or have more stuff than fits in the trunk, etc).

      • My partner leant manual in an MX5. Best car for it. Great clutch and easy notching gear stick.

    • +5

      Why not a ~2012 NC Mazda MX5 if you are after a convertible so badly? The rear seats are next to useless in the other 2 cars anyway.

      Don’t get a diesel convertible. They sound and smell shocking.

      I am a big fan of the BMW, I want a 135i coupe myself. But if you are getting less than a 6 cylinder in it I just don’t think the maintenance costs are worth having one.

      • backseats

        and yessss … to the 3 litre twin turbos

    • My wife had a used BMW, it was a 325ci, she loved it.
      When it hit 10 years old the service bills started to achievw some impressive numbers, so we started looking around for a new car.
      Traded it on a 2yo Hyundai Veloster. In spite of being a 1.6L turbo four, it has the same power as the 2.5L six in the BMW, and better economy.
      Interior is a bit plasticky, but the build quality is very good.
      Same things apply to the 86. Owning a BMW is nice, but Toyota build solid cars, and two years down the road you could be much better off.
      And in the car business, the saying goes, 'mileage is king'…

      • -7

        BMW: Bring More Women!

        Good thinking, put the wife in a toy, and get yourself a bimmer.

        ;-)

        EDIT: BTW, 325ci is a very old car >500kg heavier too. Veloster is new. With half a ton between them, Veloster would feel like a rocket in comparison even if it were a 3 cylinder. Seriously now, the specs BMW produce today in their turbo engines, even small ones, still lead the industry. But more importantly they are expert at making them drive as well. 325ci is still a safe, solid, vert (heavy car) with a non-turbo, 20 year old engine (M50/52/54/56) that is super nice to drive and still fun in the corners. Only turbo NXX engines (since about 10 years now) compare to cars made using today's tech, whereas a 10 year old Veloster would be another thing to own and drive, entirely.

        Seriously, having a Bimmer is an experience, and can quickly become a second love if you are good mechanically or can get past the costs. New ones I know little about, but old ones drive better than anything at their age. Once the wear items are fixed, they can perform like they were near new, even if decades old. And before everyone starts, I know Jap cars can be fast too, at a lower price. But to me they just don't perform in terms of feel, engineering or design sense. Not that all models are so brilliant, and I'd avoid any that aren't mass-produced unless there was a damn good reason not to.

        And yes, having owned them for decades now, I can confirm that everyone, not just girls judge you by the car you drive. Sure if you take someone out in a Toyota, what are you? If girlie's daddy sees you in a bimmer, what are you? It's sad, but humans are less than illogical at best. OTOH, as much as I'm nothing special to look at, I keep bimmers because I can't find a car that feels better (all round) to drive, and when I fix something, I don't want to despair at some disparate engineering team's best effort at making something cheap that does the job

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