This was posted 5 years 9 months 3 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

Related
  • expired

Giant TCR Advanced 2 Disc 2018 - $1,399 (50% off), Lawrencia Cycles (Hawthorn, VIC)

1760

Unreal price for a great road bike. If I live in Melbourne I'd pick one up in a heartbeat.

Spec: (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/tcr-advanced-2-disc)

  • Frame: Advanced-grade Composite
  • Fork: Advanced-Grade Composite
  • Handlebar: Giant Contact
  • Stem: Giant Connect
  • Seatpost: Giant Variant, Composite
  • Saddle: Contact (Forward)
  • Shifters: Shimano 105
  • Front Derailleur: Shimano 105
  • Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105
  • Brakes: Giant Conduct Hydraulic Disc Brake
  • Brake Levers: Shimano 105
  • Cassette: Shimano 105, 11x28
  • Chain: KMC X11EL-1
  • Crankset: Shimano 105, 34/50
  • Bottom Bracket: Shimano RS500
  • Rims: Giant PR2 disc, tubeless
  • Hubs: Giant alloy disc, 28H
  • Spokes: Stainless steel, 14-15g
  • Tires: Giant Gavia 1 Tubeless, 700x25, Folding

BikeRadar’s Road Bike of the Year 2018 (rim brakes version):
https://www.bikeradar.com/au/road/news/article/road-bike-of-…

New Shimano 105 (R7000) will be available from 2019 model, but at this price I'm more than happy to live with a run-out group-set.

Related Stores

Lawrencia Cycles
Lawrencia Cycles

closed Comments

  • -1

    Why is this so expensive?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18ntHzNLoR0

    Looks pretty basic from this video…..

    • +3

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18ntHzNLoR0&t=0m17s looks like he's sharting at the vehicle behind him.

      Expensive? I thought it's cheap for a composite frame with 105 groupset!

      • Why are composite frames so expensive then?

        • Maybe more labour for laying up the carbon?
          Or just more profit?

        • @adamadam:

          massive profit before the discount. slightly massive profits after discount.

        • because they need time and effort to design and build correctly.
          It's not just a piece of plastic from a mold.

        • @damion: Yes. So why would I pay a price that is 4x more just to get it built slowly and meticulously?

        • @StoneSin:
          Different feeling when riding.

        • -1

          @adamadam: Weird how people are praising this price but the combined reaction to my question is "just because" lol?

        • @StoneSin: Carbon fibre is favoured by serious bike riders as it provides a smoother ride by dampening the vibrations of the road (if you use racing tyres 25mm or thinner), yet still stiff enough that power transfer from your body is not lost from unnecessary flex in the frame, but most noticeably it is lighter than any other frame material. Compared to a similar aluminium bike a carbon bike could be 2kg lighter or more.

  • Holy shit. Awesome price.

  • Guys I need a bike around $500 mark give or take for the wife. Just to ride around park, no road riding.
    Will have a baby bike seat attached to it. So really just leisure. Preferably with easy remove front wheel. Any suggestions?
    Speed is not important. Comfort and lightness are.

    • +1

      Reid Cycles, or iAmFree bikes. :)

      • iAmFree sounds interesting from their website. Any reviews out there?

        • +1

          Damn i wrote a long reply to only closed it by accident and lose it all.

          TLDR; google has reviews, 14 reviews 5.0 stars.

          Me: Own many (too many) bikes - from super cheap to moderately expensive. Have extensive experience with Reid Bikes, and have had bought 1 bike from IamFree.

          IamFree Bike good.
          Highlights:
          Average weight 10-11kg
          Unheard of to get hydraulic disc brakes at this price point - so good.
          Shimano components entry level but very capable.
          Good attention to details on small things like mudguards and cabling.
          Has kickstand - you'd be surprised how many bikes dont have kickstand.

          Service:
          Owner friendly & super helpful - I recommend.
          2 weeks free trial full return period
          even helped us customised handlebar - not adjustment, a whole different handlebar type no extra costs

          Cons: Ugly logo, and even sillier name. Also terrible website.

          Summary: Best value bike in Melbourne in my opinion with good service.

          P.s. Alternatively, if going for Reid - just avoid the Condor model, you can also look at the X0
          https://www.reidcycles.com.au/reid-urban-x0.html - They cut corners at the wheels, tyres, big chainring but pretty good value for money. Don't forget cashrewards if going with Reids.

          Also make sure that the bikes has eyelids / mounts to install rear panniers - not every bike has them!

    • Which type of baby seat?
      Depending on the bike design, it may not be suitable for a front-mounted and/or rear mounted seat.
      You should probably decide on the baby seat before the bike.

      • Thinking to get Hamax Caress. It comes in either sprung or rack fitted.

        • +1

          If you're going with the rack-mounted version, then of course you'll need to ensure you get a bike with rear rack eyelets, and good luck trying to find a rear rack that's 25kg+ rated here in Australia. They're a bit rare.

          If you're going with the seatpost mounted version, then you need may need to be careful with brake and derailleur cables, depending on your bike.

  • What pedals shoes and other accessories would people recommend for this? This will be my first bike.

    • +2

      They are expensive but I love Speedplay pedals. They will probably do you a deal on pedals with the bike. If you are looking online Wiggle/Chainreaction cycles normally have a load of shoes and pedals on sale.

      • Thanks….what would be a good buget option? I know people say it depends on the person but for someone who doesn't know what they are looking for?

        Also….stupid question…can the bike be disassembled for transport? I have a small sedan so don't think it will fit as is.

        • +1

          Wheels come off easily.

        • Wheels come off easily, designed to come off in case you need to fix a puncture at the side of the road. You will probably be able to take off the front when and put the bike cross ways across the back seats or the floor area between the back and front seats. Be careful because things like chainring teeth or forks might scratch your upholstery, oil might ruin fabric. Take an old towel or 2.

          In terms of budget pedals, I love speedplay because they are easy to clip in and out of and they have all the benefits of regular clip in pedals. Some people use Mountainbike pedals on road bikes because they are easier to clip in and out of. They can be a bit harder to setup the cleats on your shoes though. For a basic road shoe have a look at something like this http://www.wiggle.com.au/bont-riot-cycle-road-shoe/ sizes have been all picked over. For basic Mountainbikd pedals (called SPD pedals) here is the type of thing you would be after http://www.wiggle.com.au/shimano-pd-m520-pedals/

          For road bike pedals you would look at something like http://www.wiggle.com.au/shimano-pd-r540-spd-sl-sport-pedals…

          The trick with these is that the screw pattern on the bottom of the shoe is different. For each type of pedal you need to attach a 'cleat' to the bottom of your shoes. MTB pedals use 2 holes, normal road pedals use a 3 hole triangular pattern and Speedplay need a 4 hole pattern. Most shoes are setup for the 3 hole pattern. I mention this because Speedplays can be a bit more complicated to setup.

        • If you're lucky, you can find a pair of road shoes that also take mtb cleats.
          That way, you can start off on the somewhat easier mtb cleats, then switch to road pedals & cleats later.
          (However, with road shoes you'll lose the ability to walk easily off bike)

    • +5

      Shimano m520 pedals, which are SPD mountainbike style. The shoes are much better for walking.

      Shoes need to be tried on, don't expect regular shoe sizing to fit properly. They need to be SPD like the pedals.
      Since you need to try them on it depends more on what is in stock and on special at your local shops.

      This is a race bike and really does demand clipless (which actually means they clip in, weird phrasing) pedals.
      This can cause crashes, but just got to be careful and do the time to build the instinct to unclip automatically.

      The axles come out quickly.
      But wedge the brake levers open or put a spacer in the caliper otherwise a bumped lever can blow the pistons out.
      Also get/make a spacer for the forks. This is a carbon bike and cannot tolerate bending of the fork without the axle supporting it.

      A floor pump, tubeless need a top-up every few days.
      Lightweight pump, don't bother with puncture kit it tubeless is slashed call an Uber.
      A GPS bike computer, race bike, all about setting the speed.
      Cadence sensor, there are round $15 ones which work fine.
      Bike pants or full bib. (AliExpress x-tiger ok for cheapo I think)
      Helmet, has to be Aus standard so local shops try it on.
      Gloves, it's still winter and good crash and sun protection anyway.
      Glasses, you need some for stone and bug protection day and night.
      Lights, Chinese does the job I think.
      A rain jacket.
      Bottle holder, AliExpress $10 for light carbon Drink, the camelback bottles are good nozzles.

      A lock, a curse of the good bike is you need a huge lock to leave it anywhere. If you only sport ride then you don't need one. But to even go into the shop for 2min you need something solid like a hiplock chain at least. You cannot frame mount a 1.5kg D lock to this. But you can leave the lock at work etc rather than carry it.
      If you commute this really needs to live in secure location not on street.

      You can buy cheap or expensive, cheap will probably get upgraded. Things like shirt, glasses, socks don't need to be cycle specific right away.

      • Wowsers so much good info here. Thanks!

        It's quite daunting starting to bike to be honest, I think I'll need to build up some stamina first before attempting the whole way to work (roughly 20km each way I think).

        My work has a open bike shed in an open carpark. Will probably need a lot of protection with lock.

        • +1

          dont leave it at work if its an open bike shed. Bring it in the office lol

        • @sickdogstin: Don't just bring it to the office - put it on your desk!

        • Unless you work at the top of the Stelvio Pass, 20 Km is nothing and on a bike like this you will be amazed at how easy it is to go fast. Rolling along on flat roads is very easy, the hard part is holding a high average speed and climbing steep hills.

        • @sickdogstin:

          welp…maybe this bike is not for me then…the bike won't get past the turnstile to bring in to work. And my work is in Broadmeadows…

      • I wouldnt leave your bike anywhere that requires a lock. The furthest I go is it resting against the outside wall of the coffee shop next to all my mamil mates whilst I go inside and order a long black!

        • Aren't most expensive bikes opportunistically stolen from outside cafes when they're not locked up?

        • @damion: I thought most were stolen from lockup cages in office buildings or residential apartments. Most of my cycling mates keep their bikes in their actual apartment. At coffee shops my bike is normally left next to my 5-10 mates. If bad guys fight us for the bikes I guess we cop the loss and put in an insurance claim (my bike is insured). If you were stupid enough to leave your Pinarello Dogma leaning against a wall out of eyeshot and sit inside for a coffee you are stupid. Everyone I know either sits outside next to their bike or at least in eyeshot of it.

      • I'd add that I went from an aluminium to carbon bike, it's so much faster and lighter - and demands more attention on rough spots when riding faster. I was riding past the G commuting to work, wasn't focused for a second, lost control over a tree root in the path and ended up stacking doing 40km/h.

        Tl,dr: pay attention to the road and take it easy on your new fast carbon bike

    • Just normal Shimano SPD road pedals and whatever Shimano road shoes fit

  • +2

    must…resist….already.. have… 4…bikes…

    • N+1!!!!!!! How many you already have is irrelevant

  • Would buy but looks like no Sz S. Bike fitter left me my own personal geometry chart showing my ideal bikefit. I have very short arms (and as a good OzB, deep pockets!) so only need a short top tube for reach. M has a 55 top tube from the geometry chart, I need a 51-52. Dont want a big frame and small stem either.

    • TL;DR and didn’t care /yawn

    • +3

      I am the MAMIL you speak of, my FTP is around 270. I have a kickr and an old aluminium Giant that I ride in the garage on zwift and I have an expensive Madone 9 that I ride with all the other MAMILs on weekends or for charity rides or for various cycling adventures with my mates! If you are saying this bike is overkill for an inner city commuter I agree with you. If you are saying this is overkill for somebody that rides 5 km each way to the station I agree, if you are hinting this is not the right bike for riding to and from the shops I also agree. If however you are in any way interested in getting some healthy exercise and getting fitter over summer I disagree entirely. I wanted to have a try at cycling so, bought a bike and, as a middle aged overweight guy just turned up at my local bike shop for their weekly saturday ride. I was massively intimidated and assumed all of the stick thin racers would laugh at me and that everyone would make fun of me in my lycra. I wanted to get fit though and as I dont look good in anything I persevered and glad I did.

      What I have found is that cycling is the most inclusive sport I've ever been involved with. I've ridden with Pro team riders, regularly ride with NRS riders and Masters national champs. Almost everyone I ride with is hugely supportive and up for a chat. Theres no doubt that when we get to the next 15% hill they will drop me easily but its not about that. I compete with myself and my Strava times for the local segments. i get a buzz if I get a PR on a local climb. I know the 4 or 5 local riders that are about my ability and I know that I am a better time triallist than I am a climber.

      If anybody is interested in getting fit over summer get this bike and bowl up to your local bikeshop for their weekly shop ride (they will have a few on different days). Part of the ride will involve sitting around a cafe talking about bikes and drinking coffee. Rather than ridicule this, embrace it, have fun and meet new mates. Even the hard core racers I know love a coffee (they probably dont eat the cakes). Every one I ride with loves new riders coming along. Until your legs get stronger you will get dropped but fight through, cycling is a huge challenge, embrace that , push through and enjoy.

    • Let them have their fun
      It feels good passing people on expensive bikes

      The ftp talk reminds me of https://youtu.be/PP_Y6tK62ms

    • This is like saying, you should only drive a second hand Barina if you drive to and from the shops on the week. Otherwise you should own a Lamborghini. Anything in between is a waste of time.

  • I've never had a bike with tubeless tyres. Is it a pain to carry around a spare tyre rather than just a spare tube or puncture kit?

    • +1

      Ive been on tubeless for years. You can carry a spare tube to use in most of them if you needed to in an emergency! Part of the benefit of tubeless is that minor punctures are self sealing. The goo inside the tyre squirts out a small puncture under pressure and on contact with the air hardens and seals the hole. I have come back from 180 km epic rides and found a self sealed puncture on my tyre that I didnt notice until I got home! If the puncture is too severe for the goo to fix it might be time for a taxi home or a call to the Mrs! Also, some of the tubeless tyres are very tight on the rim. My Bike Mechanic told me there was no point carrying a spare tube for my tyres and wheels. He said he had such a hard time getting them on the rim (I have carbon wheels) that there is no chance I would be getting the tyre off at the side of the road to fit a tube. He pretty much told me to just ride, save the weight and dont bother with a spare tube and if I get a bad puncture call for a lift home!

      I dont know anyone that carries a spare tyre.

    • Tubeless is only really worth it for mountain biking.

  • +7

    Big thanks to the OP! Putba deposit down for a M to pickup later this week. Some info:
    - $300 deposit to put aside
    - I'm 175cm and the guy I spoke to is 173cm and he's a M also
    - Normally free for bike fitting when buying a bike but considering this price, it's $70 which I can't complain at all
    - One colour

    I have a 10 yo carbon bike with Ultegra that I've ridden for 10 years. I havent been riding for a couple of months due to a knee niggle but with this bike, I'M EXCITED. Op, you've made my day!!!!!!

  • +1

    Gone up to $1899 now?

    • That's for the large one. The deal was for medium and medium/large size.

  • Anyone able to price match with a local brisbane store?

  • Just put down my $300 downpayment to save one for me

  • Would this suit a first time rider?
    Was contemplating a Bike sub $1000 but this seems pretty amazing value for money from reading the forums.

    I am looking at getting into cycling to help continue weight loss.

    • It's fairly aggressive geometry… i.e. not particularly comfortable.
      If your brain and body is prepared to put up with that for a while, then it would be fine.
      However, if you prefer more leisurely rides in the long-term, then your money would be better elsewhere.

    • +1

      If you are planning to get into road cycling as a hobby this is fine. If you are looking for something cruisey to potter to the shops or for 20 mins on a bikepath with the kids etc it is a bit much, like buying a ferrari for school pickups. If you are planning on doing 'around the bay' or one of the other chgarity rides or even if you just fancy joining in a local shop ride this is ideal!

    • Also on sale is the Cannondale Synapse Tiagra at $999, which is less racier with a slightly more upright position and thicker tyres for the occasional gravel riding (plus overall smoother ride). For the $399 saving you get Tiagra gears, that are one step down from 105s on the TCR Advanced 2 (lighter and smoother gears that are probably not noticeable to a new rider) and an aluminium frame that's around 1.5-2kg heavier than carbon.

  • Question for the brains trust and anyone who has/knows the TCR - I'm just wondering how aggressive the geometry is? I've been using a Specialised Allez for sportives and a Surly LHT for touring over the last decade but after doing the Torquay sportive a couple of months ago I figured my Allez needed an upgrade and I'm wondering if this would work (as well as being a bargain) without being a full on race bike/destroying my back - thanks in advance

  • +1

    Just called only Large left… :(

  • If anyone missed out. I got a M/L but have broken my ankle and can’t use. It’s never been used

    • buyer's remorse?

      • Literally have a bunch of new metal sitting inside my ankle and wont be using for 4-6 months.. :(

        • I'm sure it will wait for you. Just keep it out of the weather and don't let the tyres go completely flat.

    • You still wanna sell your bike?

    • Do single leg drills

Login or Join to leave a comment