This was posted 2 years 2 months 18 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Bushmaster 20x60 Binoculars $24.95 (Was $49.95) + $9.95 Shipping / Free in Store Pick up @ Ted's Cameras

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Bushmaster binoculars are the perfect choice for any given occasion, providing excellent quality and usability at an attractive price point. Whether you are looking at a pair of binoculars to take out into the wilderness or to watch your favourite team in action.This pair of Binoculars, the Bushmaster 20X60 WA, with 20x magnification, is best suited to sport, astronomy and wildlife usage - thanks to its extreme magnification. Includes Case and 12 Month Warranty.

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  • +3 votes

    20x magnification, is best suited to sport

    Not really… 8x to 10x is best for most sport…

  •  

    Depends how far away from the Action you are , from the top deck at the MCG 20x is needed.
    There are other Bushmaster Models with 10x or 8x for other Sports , the coupon can also be applied to these models.

    • +8 votes

      from the top deck at the MCG 20x is needed

      rubbish…

      20x is way too jittery to watch sport.

      I currently use a 10x a the footy and you wouldn't want to go higher.

  • Is it suitable for whale watching?

  • +2 votes

    20x Binoculars would be perfect for Whale watching from the beach or a lookout.

  • Are these suitable for the sport of being a nosey neighbour? x20 might have me seeing the hairs on Gregs chest.

  • $9.95 shipping?

  •  

    Yes,$9.95 shipping to anywhere in Australia.

  • 20x magnification should really be used with a tripod. For general use, jv is correct that 8x or 10x is the most suitable.

    • -2 votes

      These would be good for low light though if you had a tripod. With 60mm you could almost see in the dark.

      • Maybe not, the higher magnification reduces the amount of light coming through them. I'm not sure of the maths, but I think these would be dimmer than 10x40 binoculars, which would have 4/9ths (44%) of the light collection, but a 400% larger field of view (twice the height, twice the width).

        • +1 vote

          The amount of light coming through the 60mm lens is not affected by the magnification.

        • @jv:

          Look at it this way: imagine you are looking at a sign made of many light bulbs. With binoculars with x10 magnification, you can see sixteen light bulbs. With x20 magnification, you can only see four light bulbs, so less light will reach your eyes. The increased lens size is an attempt to offset this problem.

        • +2 votes

          @Russ:

          so less light will reach your eyes.

          It will be magnified though.

          The amount of light entering the lens will be the same.

        • @jv:

          Magnification doesn't increase the amount of light.

          This is easily demonstrated by a microscope - when you switch to the higher magnifications, you have to increase the brightness of the illumination.

          Likewise with camera zoom lenses: the lens size stays the same, but they have a higher f-stop at the highest zoom.

        • -1 vote

          @Russ:

          This is easily demonstrated by a microscope

          What's the aperture size of a microscope though?

        • @jv:

          Microscopes don't have an aperture. There is no iris. Every bit of light from the field of view that strikes the lens will get through to the eyepiece, less small transmission losses through the glass and mirrors of the optics.

        • @Russ:

          Microscopes don't have an aperture.

          Where does the light enter from?

        • @jv:

          Where does the light enter from?

          It's called the objective lens.

          Perhaps you should concentrate on the zoom lens example I gave instead. With the same lens size and the same aperture setting, there will be a higher f-stop when zoomed. Less light reaches the film/sensor.

        • @Russ:

          It's called the objective lens.

          What is it's aperture ?

        • +2 votes

          @jv:

          I think I can see where you're coming from - you are thinking of microscopes with a rotating head, with four or so different lenses. Not all microscopes are like that, on better microscopes you turn a knob to change magnification. The objective lens doesn't change, and the "aperture" (i.e. size) of the objective lens doesn't change either. With better microscopes, changing the magnification is rather like zoom on a camera lens, but with fixed zoom steps. Instead of changing the relative position of lenses to achieve zoom, you are switching different sets of lenses into the optical path, and they don't limit the "aperture" of the entire system - it would be stupid to do so.

          Looking back, one of your initial statements is either incorrect or misleading. You said "The amount of light entering the lens will be the same." Yes it will, but light not within the field-of-view will not reach the eyepiece. So with higher magnification, the field-of-view is smaller, and less light overall will reach the eyepiece.

        • @Russ: woah - that's sounds way incorrect. The f-stop only increases on a particular lens when you zoom because it has been designed that way - cheaply. A more expensive lens will hold the f-stop (aperture) throughout the zoom range. f-stop has nothing to do with magnification. The light entering the lens will be exactly the same if the lens shape doesn't change (doesn't extend). You will just see less of the total area. An evenly illuminated white sheet that covers the lens' entire field of view will have exactly the same exposure value through the zoom range if the f-stop (or more importantly the t-stop as in cine lenses) doesn't change as you zoom in. The only reason you have to increase illumination on some magnified objects is because you want to see into the object's shadows areas that were not visible with less magnification.

        • @jv: I'm not disagreeing. I think it's to do with pupil size which is roughly 5mm. So, for maximum light transmission 60mm % 5mm = 12. So 12 x 60 would be good for low light. 8 x 40 and 10 x 50 are all good low light binos. And nikon make a tiny 3 x 15 monocular.

        • @wolfshooter:
          I'm working from a physics standpoint. In the example I gave above, zooming in on a sign made of light bulbs, you can "see" fewer light bulbs when you zoom in, so less light will reach the film/sensor. The light from the bulbs outside your field-of view still goes through the first lens, but it will strike the light baffles inside the lens housing instead of finding it's way to the film/sensor.

          Or to look at it a different way, the light from each light bulb covers a larger area on the film/sensor when zoomed in. The same amount of light is still coming through the front lens from each light bulb, but it's being spread over a larger area, so the end result is dimmer.

          Can you give an example of a zoom lens that doesn't change f-stop as you zoom? I think it's more likely the lens manufacturers are only quoting the best f-stop figure from the zoom lens, which would be at the wide-angle end of the zoom range.

        • @Russ: sigma 18-35 f1.8 art - constant aperture throughout the zoom. canon 70-200 f2.8l, 24-70 f2.8l, tamron 15-30 f2.8. Most professional lenses have constant f-stop ratings through the zoom range. More expensive lenses like cine lenses use t-stop ratings - that is a light transmission index. The Fujinon mk18-55mm t2.9 and mk50-135mm t2.9 have a constant t rating throughout the zoom range.

          I disagree with the light bulb example. Let's invert the scenario to reflected or incidental light. You actually need more light for a wider field of view than for a narrow field of view to retain the same exposure. Think about how much light (or light bulbs) you will need to illuminate a white 10m x 10m wall to deliver the same exposure on a sensor through a wide angle lens vs a 1m x 1m wall on the same sensor with a telephoto lens using the same f-stop rating. If you invert the scenario to use direct light through the light bulbs - you can obtain the same exposure with a telephoto lens that only "sees" one bulb vs a wide angle lens that only sees 9 bulbs all at the same f-stop rating where the bulbs are all emitting the same amount of lumens. It actually works the other way - turn off 8 of those 9 bulbs when viewing through a wide angle lens and your exposure will drop because most of the sensor will now be in shadow.

        • @wolfshooter: Yes, that's correct for cameras. We have a pupil that's roughly 5mm, which is smaller than most camera sensors. So, for max light transmission you divide the objective lens dia by 5. 50mm gets you 10x, 60mm gets you 12x etc.

        • @wolfshooter:
          I don't have enough photography knowledge to understand your inverted scenario.

          I did find this interesting article that gives opinions as to how constant-aperture zoom lenses work:
          https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7365/how-do-consta...

          A quick reading suggests that constant-aperture zoom lenses move the iris to a different position within the lens, so that it has a greater effect as the lens goes to the wide-angle end (this is the "virtual aperture" and "effective aperture" - same thing? - bits of the discussion).

          So in effect, they are compensating for the variable-aperture effect that the zoom lens naturally (by physics) has.

        • @poohduck: I thought the pupil size was determined by dividing the objective lens dia by the magnification. So these 20x60 binoculars have an exit pupil of 3 (which is quite small and therefore dark). So I guess you're saying a decent pupil size of 5mm would require max magnification of 12 for an objective lens of 60mm…

        • @wolfshooter: Yes. As far as I understand lol. Because we (humans) generally have pupils 5mm in diameter

        • @poohduck: I thought it was 7mm not 5mm. These would be great, shame the low magnification… https://www.teds.com.au/bushmaster-7-50-waterproof-binocular...

        • @wolfshooter: Don't dismiss the low magnification and wide field of view. I don't think you'll get any more light, but it will be more stable and fast and easy to lock on to subject. 8 x 40 would be better - everything maximised for the size, or 7 x 35 would be physically smaller with no less light than 7 x 50mm but smaller field of view. Geez, you're right, I just read, our pupils are generally 5mm, but widen up to 7mm in low light. So 7mm looks awesome, although I think it's pretty dark by the time this happens. I use a 5 x 15mm monocular made by nikon. It's tiny. I take it bushwalking, so generally I'm using it during daylight. It's amazing what I can see with 5x that other's can't see with just their eyes. Found this, although it sounds as though you already know it: https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/binoculars.html I think the link to the 7 x 50mm bushmaster is the wrong picture. I think the picture shows a range finding bino (see button on top and something that looks like battery compartment nearby)

        • @poohduck:

          • 5mm and 7mm are averages. We're all slightly different.
          • You pupils widen less as you age.
          • It also takes time in the dark for your pupils to widen.
          • And don't drink caffeine when viewing as this will constrict your pupils and they won't widen as much.

          A binoculars "exit pupil" - the width of the light as projected on the eyepieces - does depend on the design. It certainly doesn't usually match the physical size of the lens. You can estimate by dividing objective by magnification but what you have is a maximum theoretical size. Are the binoculars really 20x? I've seen fake brand name binocs labelled as 20x that were actually 10x on a few occasions.

        • @Russ:
          You sound like a refrigerator bulb

  • +7 votes

    Everyone, be aware that 20x binoculars are difficult to use unless you are mounting them on a tripod, or have something to brace them against. The magnification is quite high, when using them hand-held you can't hold them steady enough, and the image you see through them will be bouncing around so much that you won't be able to see much detail. You'll also have some difficulty seeing through them at all, because high-magnification binoculars have a small "exit pupil" - you can only see through them if the pupils of your eyes are within 1-2mm of the dead-centre position of each lens.

    Here's a good forum article on the limitations of 20x binoculars:
    https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/401745-20x50-possible-use...

    The 60 in the description of these binoculars, as in "20x60", is the size of the front lens in millimeters. Bigger means more light gathering, so you can see better in dim lighting, like just after sunset, or for astronomical purposes. 60mm is quite large for standard binoculars.

    Also note the specifications on the website say "optical zoom 20x". These are not zoom binoculars, you can't adjust the magnification like you can with a zoom camera lens. The website should say "optical magnification 20x".

    • 20x60 won't let in as much light as 10x50 or 8x40 or 12x60 or 5x25 or 3x15. It all comes back to pupil size.

      • Thanks, that confirms my argument with JV, above.

        • Yes, camera lenses and sensor size and OMG :) I still don't have a handle on it all, but read up recently on binocular related stuff. The real nerds talk about exit pupil.

  • +1 vote

    As these binoculars have a 60mm objective they let in a lot of light - which makes them useable without a tripod for short periods of time,again it depends what they are being used to watch.

    • which makes them useable without a tripod

      I highly doubt that…

      The amount of jitter is affected by the magnification, not the aperture…

  • +2 votes

    The 16x50 and 10x50 are also on offer at the same deal - if you don’t like the 20x , or if your have the shakes.

  • Considering that 20x60 are all the specs you get, these are probably garbage. Having said that, it's only $35 to my door… bought.

    • I use a cheap tripod and bought a mount through ebay. If you have a window with a view, it's a good cheap setup.

  • Does anyone know if this model has a tripod mounting screw?

  • +1 vote

    Yes they can be mounted on a tripod but a Tripod Adaptor is required - these cost $15.

  • +2 votes

    Sorry the tripod adaptor is not listed on the Teds site - I will get it added to the site tomorrow.

    •  

      It's best to click 'reply' to the message you're responding to, like i'm doing now, and then enter your reply. Repeatedly using the 'Post New Comment' section at the end makes it all a little disjoint…

      Free shipping and i'll buy one.

  • Can i defeat Luke Cage with these?

  • Hey everyone, this could be $10 cheaper if you sign up for "ClubTed": "On joining ClubTed you receive a FREE $10 voucher redeemable in-store or online, with any purchase over $20, a free 16x20" poster, 10% off Selected Accessories and Free Shipping (on orders over $100, does not apply to printing services)."

    So the cost will come down to $14.95 after the $10 discount, if you click-and-collect.

    Details: https://www.teds.com.au/clubted

    Also, "Your birthday is special to us, and we think you deserve a present a $20 voucher (minimum $40 spend). As long as you're a ClubTed member we'll send you one every year!"

    • Can you use the $10 voucher with this voucher?

      • It removes this (117523) discount which is larger.

        • Oops, my mistake. I didn't try to purchase, and thought the codes might stack.

          You could still use the ClubTed discount to buy something else, in a separate transaction, if you are going to click-and-collect.

  • +1 vote

    Can you do me a good deal on Tamron RXD 28-75 F2.8 Sone E-Mount? Don't say a figure more than $1100.

  • not a lot of reviews but this guy seemed to like it for his purchase price of $64. https://www.productreview.com.au/p/bushmaster-1050wa-2060wa-...

  • "or to slip unobtrusively into your jacket pocket"

    Big pocket.

  • As mentioned,10x50 is the best general size in binoculars….

  • Thanks.
    Depends on your use but I like the high power 20x.

  •  

    Saw some today.
    They seem very well built.

    Great value if you can get them in-store.

  • A bit light on specs! How big is the case, i have a set of binoculars and the case is huge.

  • A bit light on specs! How big is the case, i have a set of binoculars and the case is huge.

  • A bit light on specs! How big is the case, i have a set of binoculars and the case is huge.

    • +2 votes

      The box it comes in is about 22.7cm x 24.5cm x 9.1cm, and the case fits comfortably inside.

      The box it comes in is about 22.7cm x 24.5cm x 9.1cm, and the case fits comfortably inside.

      The box it comes in is about 22.7cm x 24.5cm x 9.1cm, and the case fits comfortably inside.

  •  

    My case is huge ,
    but I don't like to skite.

  • OP, understand you are a Leica man, any Leica bins on sale?

  • Thanks just purchased the Bushmaster 20X60 WA. Keen to test out the performance without a tripod

  • Just got mine back to the office. For $25, they're GREAT. Physically larger than I expected. The lense caps at the ends are attached to the unit. The lens caps covering the eye pieces are not.
    Comes with a bag and cleaning cloth and very basic instruction that seems to cover many models.

    Happy camper.

    • Oh, and just checked, the code can be just supplied in store (just quote the code). Online purchasing is optional. Seems to apply to all BushMaster binoculars. Worth going in and checking a few out at 50% off. Garden City, QLD had a lot of stock on the shelves of a few different models.

      • +1 vote

        I agree - they're great for $25.

        I think all the Bushmaster are discounted 50% at the moment.
        Even at retail these are good.