I've been a full time photographer for the past 6 years and an avid Ozbargainer for the past 2. Occasionally I see photography gear related posts with plenty of +1's and thought this might be a good opportunity to lend some knowledge/advice. I'm not up to speed on what models/lenses to recommend but ask me anything.
[AMA] I'm a Professional Photographer, Ask Me Anything
LDestin on 15/09/2018 - 20:37
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How did you learn to take photos and post processing? Formal training/self taught/combination/youtube?
I'm a completely self-taught photographer through trial and error. I found this to be the best way to learn, once you miss a shot by making a mistake you will never make that same mistake again. It's kind of like navigating through trial and error vs using a GPS, if you come to rely on the GPS, knowing the right way takes longer to sink in.
For anyone looking to study photography I recommend studying Business & Marketing instead. Sure some parts of photography are learn't through formal training but best way to get better is to practice.
Could you say what your photo ratio between film and digital is and what sort of application makes you choose film over digital?
At the moment I'm using more digital as my scanner (used for digitising the films) is out of commission. However I would say around 75% of my portfolio is film. When choosing between the two it usually comes down to how much light is available. A well lit scene is more suited to film, a darker scene or one requiring a wider dynamic range (very contrasty scene) is usually reserved for digital captures.
What are your thoughts on the future of micro four thirds system? Specially, given that Pana, Sony, Canon and Nikon have jumped in to FF race, how will Olympus respond?
I don't believe Micro four thirds is going away, there are big advantages to it. Although there's always a demand for quality, the reality is consumers want smaller, lighter and more portable. Especially the Asian market. If you want to carry a 600mm full frame lens in your kit it will consume the entire bag, but a 600mm equiv micro four thirds is a fraction of the size.
I vaguely remember an Olympus Rep stating they wouldn't enter the full frame market but lens patents by Olympus seem to suggest otherwise. Only time well tell.
Thank you for your input. I am mainly interested in wildlife photography and using an a6000 with an adapted sigma 400 5.6 lens. Thinking of switching to Olympus. Guess I'll wait around for another couple of months and see how Olympus react to all these FF dramas.
What lens is suitable for landscope photography with an APS-C sensor? I've got a 35mm for portraits but looking towards a 12mm for landscapes. much thanks
Which camera system do you have? There are a couple of options from third parties; Sigma 10-22, Tokina 11-16, Tamron 10-24mm. Otherwise most brands do a similar focal length starting at around 10mm
Sony a6000. Heard good things about both sigma 16, and tamron 12. Any hands on experience with sony eco system?
I have the Sigma 16mm 1.4 which I've used with my Sony A6300. It's an amazing lens which I definitely recommend. I've used it in many of my shots I've uploaded to IG: https://www.instagram.com/mich.lizt/?hl=en
Any tips for a budding photographer who wants to get out of IT and make it a serious full-time profession?
Like how to market your work better or get clients/contacts?
Do you post your work online on websites like 500px for sale for additional income?
Right now I am shooting everything but I do like landscapes more.
http://instagram.com/starspullingmyhairNice page, I recognise a few of those scenes. Honestly there's no 'one solution' to making it happen. I've done so many things to market myself that I can't even remember where I started. Nonetheless it all comes down to reaching out to people and putting yourself out there. For myself, it's reaching out to hotels, Air BNB's, Tourism etc. For you it maybe different.
I have a 500px account but not for stock, just the social side of it. (https://500px.com/destin_sparks)
Thank you for your response.
What is the process like to shoot on the your Film camera from putting in the roll to the final result?
I am not much familiar with film photography except the handy point and shoot film roll camera my dad used to have.I use 120 film which is medium format, it's not housed in container like traditional film its just a tightly wrapped roll so it needs to kept away from direct sunlight. Loading the film is pretty easy but because of the Panoramic format I only get 4 shots per roll. I've calculate the cost of a transparency (the opposite of a Negative) whether it turns out or not at around $4-5 each, that was a few years ago.
I then use a light meter, I'll take a reading for the highlights and the shadows and then work out my exposure. Anything over 4 seconds and I also have to calculate the reciprocity failure (ie 4 seconds reading = 5 seconds, 8 seconds reading = 10 seconds). As the exposure gets longer, the film loses its sensitivity to light, so I have to factor this in. After 4 shots, the roll is done.
I don't do my own processing, but I do my own drum scanning, this is large machine weighing 250kg. The transparencies are encapsulated beneath Mylar and mounted in oil for the best results. If I didn't have my own scanner they would be $300-$400AUD per scan.
@DestinSparks: Thank you for the detailed explanation. Familiar with some of the things you mentioned as I did some reading about Fujifilm camera you use and how the end result is digitized. Quite a long and expensive process I feel.
I noticed through DeviantArt that you started with a Canon FF and then to a Fujifilm and eventually the Phase One.
Since you are not currently shooting with the Fujifilm camera due to scanner issues, with the old Canon Full Frame and the new Phase One(since its a 45mm lens and not a wide angle lens), you take multiple shots and then stitch them to get panoramas?
@discounthunter: As you get into the larger formats the 35mm Equivalents go the other way. So 45mm on Phase One is equivalent to 28mm, it's reasonably wide and not good for stitching. It's not my preferred focal length.
My film camera is 90mm which equates to about 21mm, I'm much happier in that range.
The Canon I have is just used for taking photos of random things, selling the car, eBay items etc.
The digital panoramas I've posted are just crops since I don't like stitching. There's always elements that move in the wind.
Which shop do you usually go to for good quality photo canvas or photo prints?
I can't comment on Canvas but for my prints I've used both Vision Image Lab (Redfern, Sydney) and CPL Digital (Melbourne), both highly recommended.
Thank you!
What are the chances of getting laid when you do photo shots with hot models
Great photos! I've recently entered into the world of photography and loving it.
Two questions;
How do you scout for the locations you want to shoot at? Does this take a lot of online research google maps/earth or another source?
How do you go about making your photos look unique?Ah yes, scouting. This can be super time consuming but I mostly just use Google Maps. The Governments of different states do provide some access to better maps. For example you can find Queensland's version here https://qldglobe.information.qld.gov.au/
There are other sites which can help with reading the weather for the best photo opportunities (Skippy Sky - clouds altitudes, Suncal - Sun position etc). I also use Web Cams to check weather conditions when I can.
I must admit, trying find locations from Google Maps is like trying to find a needle in hay stack. Usually social media is a good source of inspiration, but I never set out to 'recreate' an image I've seen. However, sometimes the best angle is the one that has already been taken time and time again. I try put myself in situations that other people wouldn't ie, waist deep in freezing water, or unique weather conditions such as lightning storms like the Blue Boat House in Perth (https://www.destinsparks.com/shop/dances-with-lightning/)
Why do you choose to shoot on film? Are there times when you choose digital?
Film just has a 'feel' about it that digital can't reproduce. People will look at the images and know there is something different about it but they just can't pick it. Unlike Digital sensors with systematic RGB pixels the grain in film is also organic leaving a more natural look.
Film does have it's limitations though, namely low light which is where I will usually opt for digital.
Thank for this AMA, it's great that you have turn this into a full time job.
My questions are in regards to time.
How much time to you spend in one location for the conditions to be suitable for the shot you're after?
Then, how much time do you spend doing post processing work, I assume you use Photoshop?
I strive to capture everything in camera and therefore don't resort to Photoshop. I don't have anything against Photographers choosing to use Photoshop however, so long as they're honest about it. For me, landscape photography is all about getting that lucky, perfect shot. It wouldn't be the same if I edited it.
I use Graduated Neutral Density filters to hold back the sky and a Circular Polariser religiously. I spend countless hours waiting for the right time to photograph and sometimes the moment never comes. There are locations I've been to 15+ times both in Australia and overseas when the conditions have never been right. With Landscape Photography some days you just get lucky… other days you wait patiently for luck to happen.
I'm a decent hobby photographer - I can frame a nice shot and mess with it in lightroom - and looking to step up my game.
I have a Sony A7 with the kit lens, as well as an adapter to Canon FD and some old (shitty) Canon lenses.
I like to take landscape and architecture photos.
What resources or equipment would you point me to to improve my skills? I'd like to be better with the manual controls and stuff too.
Thanks! p.s. your work is fantastic.
Thanks jrowls. Once you know and understand the manual settings everything just snowballs from there. There are really only 3 things you need to know; Aperture, ISO, & Shutter Speed. For landscapes I can tell you that my settings are almost always the same; the lowest ISO, f8-11 and whatever the Shutter Speed needs to be for the correct exposure. Fstoppers, PetaPixel are all great resources. You can also see if there are any Meetup Events (Meetup.com) for photography in your area too. Events are community run and are usually free or available for a very modest fee ($1-$2)
If landscapes is you preferred subject matter definitely invest in a tripod, a polariser and some ND filters. Feel free to hit me up for more info.
Can you recommend some brands for entry polariser or ND filters for enthusiasts?
I once tried some ebay specials, and as you can imagine, they didn't work very well or last very long.Also, in your experience, can the effect of filters be replicated in post-processing?
For Polarisers locally found in Australia, Hoya would be my recommendation, there is quite a range of budgets in their product line. (I use B+W and Singh-Ray)
For ND filters, you can get cheaper brands (Cokin) but please keep in mind they will give you a colour cast. Your grey sky might turn Magenta! (I use Lee & Singh-Ray).
Breakthrough Photography is another option for filters.
Polarisers definitely can't be replicated in post production, they remove the glare from foliage and water revealing the colour underneath. No amount of saturation can compensate for this.
Neutral Density can kind of be replicated but it's not the same. The alternative is to take multiple exposures (on a tripod) and blend them together but there will always be movement; trees, leaves, clouds, water etc.
would you buy a leica lens
Leica doesn't fit anything I own but I would probably be more likely to invest in the Zeiss 21mm for Landscape Photography
What do you think of the new touch AF functions on cameras?
I depends on you use your camera. With the camera on a tripod or held in an awkward position I can see the benefit to be able to touch the screen focus. But where the camera is used like a traditional SLR (held to the eye) it doesn't make much sense.
I use an A6000 I find changing the focus point takes a bit longer vs touch AF. Is there a shortcut for this?
have you insured your Phase One and do you feel "aware" lugging something so expensive around
Yes its fully insured (AON Cameramans Insurance). I'm mostly ok with lugging it around, what makes me nervous is Airport security checkpoints, especially in the US where there doesn't seem to be any 'order'. Things come out of bags and then you're shuffled along.
This was really interesting - thank you for sharing.
What's your favourite photography website that you follow?
One of my favourite websites : https://www.lookslikefilm.com/2018/09/12/world-of-pets-vii/ …
Nice link, there is tonnes of great content on there, soooo many good shots. To be honest I keep pretty light on looking at Photography websites, I find they can depress me a little - looking at so much great work and then comparing myself, thinking about so many things I wish I could achieve but will never have the time or resources.
Hey Destin
As others have said thanks for the thread. Really interesting.
I have a basic D3300 which I use as a bit of a hobby. I enjoy playing around with settings trying to get a great photo. My question is what lens would you suggest to upgrade to from the kit lenses? I currently have an 18-55 and 55-200 (Nikon brand). I predominantly (and enjoy) doing landscape photos.Thanks so much!
Nikon have a 10-24mm but it comes in close to $1k. As a cheaper alternative to the Nikon I would recommend the Sigma 10-20mm or Tamron 10-24mm. Tokina also make something similar but it's not as common in stores.
How often do you take nude portraits? And what’s it like?
How do you stop people from copying? Watermarking? Legal action? Or simply nothing?
Good question, I don't watermark images I put online as I feel it detracts from the images. I will keep a copyright notice in the back end metadata and only ever put a reduced resolution online (max 2 Mega Pixels). Every so often I will reverse image search a few of my most popular images for infringements which occasionally ends in a payout.
Could you share any infringement stories? What happened and how did you go about resolving them? People stealing your work is one of the things I always worry about when posting things online.
Sorry if you have already answered this but did you study photography formally (i.e. at Uni/T.A.F.E. or the like) or are you mostly self-taught?
Troll question: do you pronounce it I-S-O or I-SO :p
I'm self-taught, but if you're interested in photography as career I would recommend studying business and/or marketing. Photography is largely hands on, the quickest and best way (in my opinion) is to practice. Although business and marketing can be self-taught as well I'm sure doing the two side by side could give a big advantage.
I've always understood ISO to be an acronym and this pronounced it I-S-O but according this guy: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ah_UFTItYc), its not. There you go. I learnt something today, thanks for the troll question.
Follow up… Do you say gif or gif?
Gif, like G for goat… not like Jif
Gotta troll you some more: an acronym is a word made up of the first letter or first few letters you can pronounce, like SCUBA or NATO. An initialism is when you pronounce each letter like CIA or FBI or HTML. Sorry, could resist my inner language/grammar Nazi.
Moving along, you truly do have some beautiful work. I am into macro photography lately because the weather is shit where I am so I can just stay inside and use my office/studio to do some fun close-up stuff. Can get a bit expensive when you start to buy macro rails and all that other crap. Still fun, though.
There you go, I've learnt something else. Macro can be great for those days when you can't go too far. If you like capturing insects, do it first thing in the morning, they're still frozen and easy to capture.
What are you using to upload to Instagram? Your feed layout is amazing!
Thank you, I don't use anything special, I just split my 3:1 images into squares using a PC. There are apps that can do it however, try searching 'Instagram triptych' or I think Planoly is another app.
When you hear the word wedding do you instantly double the price of you packages?
Not applicable to my field
What do you think about Micro Four Thirds and its future
Here is what I wrote earlier in response to @AMelbournian
"I don't believe Micro four thirds is going away, there are big advantages to it. Although there's always a demand for quality, the reality is consumers want smaller, lighter and more portable. Especially the Asian market. If you want to carry a 600mm full frame lens in your kit it will consume the entire bag, but a 600mm equiv micro four thirds is a fraction of the size."
You have an excellent craft.
Would love to know how many hours goes into researching a location, then camping location? Im guessing you might even stay there multiple days/months till you get the right conditions, light, etc?
Thank you Phocus, yes a tonne of effort goes into all the above. I think I'm going to start a VLog to show some of the ins and outs of my days. I normally don't stay in the one place too long, 2-3 days max, it's either going to happen or it isn't.
Its pretty clear straight off the bat whether its been a dry season, poor autumn colours, low snow coverage etc and I will just shelve the image until the next season. I can spend the whole day sitting in one spot though, not always just for the weather or the light but for the hoards of people to move out of the way in the more touristy locations. Thanks for your question.
Gorgeous range of photos you have on Instagram, recognize quite a few locations and now want to visit again!
Have you run into any problems getting permission to take pictures and do you often need to arrange agreements to shoot and sell your work?Thanks MoneyPincher, everywhere is different. In Australia most National Parks etc are pretty relaxed (except Uluru) with regards to professional photography. The National Parks in the United States are a lot different and some permits are required. The permits are usually aimed at Hollywood film makers and can get pretty in depth. Quite often when you ring to enquire about a permit the staff have no idea. I always try to take the formal approach but am often given the green light regardless.
I understand you use films with very high mega pixel values when converted to digital files. But in real life, even with huge 60 inch prints, does that higher mega pixel count really distinguishable to human eye? What I'm basically asking is, if you use for an example 38 MP Sony A7Riii instead of the expensive stuff you're using now, would that make a big difference in output even at large prints? I have never read any photographer complaining about 38 MP photos of A7Riii having less details than they would like. Your insight is highly valued. Your photos are stunning by the way. Keep up the good work..
It all comes down to viewing distance. Billboards for long time were printed with no more than 5 Mega Pixels. 20x60 inches is one of my more common sizes but I also offer up to 50" x 150" which is pretty big. I dream to one day be up there with the some of the big name photographers and I expect my work to be scrutinised in a gallery at a nose length. This is another reason I choose to invest in the best I can afford.
Having said that, I would have no hesitation printing a file from the A7Riii at 60 inches (its a great camera). Photoshop once claimed they can interpolate (upsize) to 5x with zero loss of quality. I'm sure they have advanced on that by now and there are other software applications capable of upsizing. Definitely treat yourself to printing a large photograph one day. I'm still left speechless sometimes when I see one of my photos printed for the first time.
On another note, photos that are printed should be done in Adobe RGB, photos that are online should be published in sRGB. Colour Space Profiles can get confusing so I wont delve too deep for now. Happy shooting.
Thanks for this, a very interesting and inspiring read - makes me want to go out and take some photos!
If just one person gets some value out of this AMA, I'm happy. Photography is such community driven hobby than can lead to a very fulfilling career if desired.
Everyone needs a gentle push to dust off the camera sometimes.
Same here, after checking out OP's instagram account, it inspired me to go out and take a 3:1 landscape shot. Not at OP's level yet, but used his advice of F stop range, and used a CPL, looks much better than my previous attempts.
Hello OP
So I really want to get into photography - having said that, I have never owned a camera before apart from my phone which i usually use to take pics when I am in a holiday.
I always wanted to own a DSLR but with SLR so cheap these days - I am waiting for this boxing day to buy my first ever - decided to go for the A6000 as a starter and focus on the lenses. What are your thoughts on this?
Also, to help and educate myself along - what websites/forums do you recommend and also any photo editing apps/software for a beginner?
Thanks in advance, NVP.PS. I have myself interested on landscape and architecture - what is a good way to start since you are into landscapes as well. Is it as simple as taking my camera(which i do not have yet) to the mountains and shoot ?
Thanks for the question.
Firstly, Sony make some fantastic cameras and the A6000 is a great starter. One of the main drawbacks of Sony is the number of lenses and accessories (and price of them) when compared to Canon/Nikon. However, don't let that deter you from the camera. No matter which brand you look at there are always Pros & Cons. If you get right into photography, no matter what you buy today you will want to change and upgrade tomorrow. It happens to all us.
Landscape & Architecture photography share some similar traits, I know because I've dabbled in architecture as well. You will want a wide angle lens but I wouldn't recommend buying it right away. You're better of getting the camera first, learning bits and pieces and then slowly adding lenses/accessories as you feel you need them.
As far as websites; YouTube & Fstoppers would be where I point most beginners, there is an abundance of free content, so much so that it can be overwhelming. Make sure to keeping getting out there and practice what you've learnt.
For editing and processing look at Lightroom, not Photoshop. Photoshop is more about manipulation, Lightroom is more about making adjustments to your photos. From memory Adobe offer a Photographers Package that combines the price for a month to month/annual fee. You can give them a try for a couple of months with the ability to cancel. Otherwise check out Affinity Photo for a once off fee.
Yes, its as simple as heading out and starting to shoot. The magic hours usually provide the best quality of light (an hour before and after sunrise/sunset). Start with automatic if you're not ready for Manual Modes but hit me up on Instagram when you're ready to switch, I'll give you some pointers.
Thanks mate, will keep you on the loop!
Just a heads up if you are going the Sony A6000 you can get a free copy of Capture One Express (Sony edition) which is a good starting point as a digital darkroom.
From there (if needed) you could look at Lightroom or Capture One Pro.
How do I take better instagram and tinder photos so I can get more likes and matches????
Do you pay models for shoots or do they pay you? Do you do nude shots?
I hear the chicks dig photos with puppies ;)
whats the worst question a clients has ask you?
Thankfully I've never been asked for a refund, otherwise that would be the worst question
To be honest my customers/clients are almost always a pleasure to deal with.
I have been amateur photographer, usually taking photos of objects (some what product photography in Science field), i have equipments and time but its just work…
so let me ask how do you keep that "fire of Passion for photography"?
and
How do you take criticism for your work? eg. if client not happy and sometimes they dont know what they want….
thank you.
ps.
I am always believe work with your equipments, not necessarily means new equipment are always better, I am still using my old NIkon 1Dx and 2Dxs.It sounds like your field is a little different from mine so my advice may not be completely accurate. However it's important to remember that photography is subjective, there's no right or wrong and everyone's opinion will differ. It's also important to remind your clients of this. Generally if a client isn't happy its usually due to their expectations or their 'preconceived idea' of what something should look like. If a client comes back and says they don't like it, find out what it is they don't like, usually you can narrow it down to one minor thing that's easily fixed.
I have received my fair share of criticism, some of constructive, other times not. Criticism is usually hard to swallow at the time because its your work and you're displaying it because you're proud of it. However, later down the track you start to look again at your work and perhaps realise they had a point and adjust work accordingly.
Nothing wrong with the Nikon 1Dx and 2Dxs. Remember, it's the photographer that makes the photo, not the gear.
Hi DestinSparks,
I am new in this field and just bought camera and lenses. For post production I have heard and seen a lot about Lightroom but as it's not cheap as a hobby. To start with would you be able to suggest some free or either cheaper alternative to Lightroom.
Thanks.Are you looking at the outright price of Lightroom or the Subscription from Adobe? There is a Photography Plan from Adobe for $14.29 a month which includes Photoshop & Lightroom. Otherwise look at Affinity Photo for a 'once off' purchase, rather than a subscription. From what I've read, it's more similar to Photoshop than Lightroom.
Hope that helps.
What camera brand did you get? check if they provide free software along with your camera. I have a Canon, and they offer "Digital Photo Professional 4".
You just need to enter in your camera model and serial number on their website and will be able to download it for free.
Ah yes, good advise @CityEnd
Thanks @CityEnd and @DestinSparks. I was able to download "Digital Photo Professional 4", it seems much more useful to me than the cheaper alternative I bought earlier. That was a great advise. Thanks guys.
I have a few questions:
How many photos do you sell per year on average?
$150K+/yr is decent revenue. Do you supplement your photo sales with other photography related income, or is it all photo sales?
What are you actually taking home at the end of the year?
You have some rather expensive equipment there. Did you jump straight in to medium frame cameras that cost as much as a nice car, or did you start with DSLR? How do you think you'd have done if you you stuck with a full frame camera? What would you buy if you were starting fresh today?
Do you ever take breaks from your photography? Holidays that are just for you?
Do you have a favourite photo that you've taken? Do you have one you thought was fantastic that just never sold? Do you have one that you consider awful that has sold well?
Hi Syousef, thanks for you questions, I've answered them in the bullets below:
It varies from year to year but I suppose around 50
The rest of my income is supplemented by licensing deals, paid interviews, judging photo competitions and other miscellaneous things. I have in the past run Photo Tours/Workshops however, I've put that on hold since the last major Cyclone that affected North Queensland and more specifically the Whitsundays.
This figure varies far too dramatically to give you a reliable answer. As you can imagine, purchases such as a Phase One puts a big swing on the 'take home' amount.
I've had a Canon Full Frame camera and still have it for miscellaneous shots of things. Investing that amount into myself (and my gear) has definitely given me an incentive to push myself. Expensive gear isn't necessary to become a successful photographer though. I've had just a Film camera for long time and have been very satisfied with the results. Starting fresh I would buy a Linhof Technorama 617s III. The only reason I've looked into digital is because I don't know the future of film.
Thanks for asking this question as I feel it's something I need to work on. If I ever travel, I travel with camera in hand and so many times I haven't enjoyed the tourist side of things. I think a cruise in the middle of the ocean would be the ideal holiday. Nothing to photograph and forced to relax. Yes, it's been a long time since I've just had a vacation time.
Favourites change all the time but I do have a few. Yosemite would be one of those, its exactly what I pictured in mind before I stepped onto the plane (https://www.destinsparks.com/shop/whispers/). I don't publish anything I would consider 'awful', but there are images in my portfolio that I've posted reluctantly. Although I haven't been a fan of them for whatever reason, others have and they've sold.
Rather than grill you with more I'll just say thanks for answering the lengthy list I already posted.
Haha thank you and you're welcome.
Got any sample pictures of your work?
Oh wow, those are actually pretty good…..desktop wallpaper material right there……
How do you take wide aperture/long exposure shots with ND filters when you can't see what you're gonna focus on? Maybe it's not applicable to your equipment. I was using a Mirrorless Sony NEX6 without a proper focus ring.
I think I can answer this question.
I presume you understand the fundamentals of using ND10/16 filter and also have focus metering turned on in your camera? If so, then it's quite easy to set your focus for long exposures. You can either apply your ND filter prior to focusing, by cranking your ISO to the highest number possible which allows your camera to see where the focus is (i.e. the camera sees through whatever ND filter you have applied). Then, once you have your focus set, you can then turn down the ISO to whatever the correct value was initially when calculating for the long exposure.
Or, another option is that you could set your focus prior to applying the ND filter. Once you have all the values figured out, you can then lock that focus off (with some sticky tape or whatever) as you carefully apply the ND filter making sure not to turn that focus ring on the lens. Again, this is all possible in manual focus mode only.
I hope this makes some kind of sense… otherwise, there's many Youtube tutorials out there which better explain what I've attempted to above! Good luck!
Also, another tip for long exposure is to make sure you have noise reduction turned on in your camera. It's a pain, but after a long exposure, your camera then takes another blank picture (of the same length of shutter speed) to remove any coloured specs/hot spots/etc. You don't always need it, but for any long exposures (3+ minutes) it's definitely recommend.
Hi Destin! Thanks for the post that helped me a lot to think about the meaning of photography.
I love shooting landscapes and portrait as my favourite hobby but I’m getting serious and excited to learn more about it.
If you have a gallery in Brisbane as I am studying here in Brisbane city too, I would love to go there and see you in some chance,,?Thanks heaps ahead!
Gisik
Hi!
I have a Sony A6000 and I am too cheap to buy a auto focus lens (SEL1018 cost $1k), so I got a cheap Samyang F1.8 12mm ultra wide angle (for $250) and I want to take real estate pics of my place.
But the thing is - all my pics are crap using the manual focus Samyang. When I use a Song F1.8 50mm prime - it's really nice, but the pics are not wide angle.
I want a pro picture of the bedroom, kitchen etc, very bright, focused - and all I get are blurry pics. I want more light so shoot at F1.8? What am I doing wrong?
Tips, settings? website?
Thank you!
FDMy light globe moment from reading OP's tips is that for landscape and real estate photography, you need to stop down the aperture so that more things are in focus.
If you're using F1.8, the depth of field will be so narrow that only a small amount of the shot will be in focus. Good for portraits, but not for landscape/real estate.
Try to set the aperture to at least F11, you must use a tripod, and set the shutter accordingly for the right exposure.
Then again, it could just come down to the quality of the lens.
And a tip for learning more? I just signed up to the Melbourne library today(for free) which also gives me access to the Lynda courses, I just did a search on there for real estate photography and they have a few courses.
https://www.melbourne.vic.gov.au/community/libraries/create-…I found out about this deal from here: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/409084#comment-6467842
Thank you soooooo much!! quack quack!!
Yep, pretty much everything what CityEnd said.
I would suggest shooting around F8 as that's the sharpest aperture for most lenses.
If shooting in a dark room, don't be afraid to bump up your ISO as newer cameras (including the A6XX series) handle high ISO values very well.
Always use manual focus, and make sure to turn on focus peaking on your Sony camera (it works wonders) as this will show you what's in focus — good luck!
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Great question. On social media I get asked this a lot, but because the gear I use is quite unique it usually sparks some interest and further questions rather than just… "if I buy that too, I can get the same images". When aspiring photographers learn that a lot of my photographs are captured on film by camera manufactured in 1992 it puts a new perspective on the importance of (or lack thereof) camera equipment.
Something I always stress is; it's less about the camera and more about the quality of light. Understanding light and how to use it is by far one of the biggest secrets to good photography regardless of subject matter (landscape, portraits, weddings etc)