Recently Bought 2008 Holden Commodore Starting to Show Problems. What Are My Options?

Lakaanup on 30/12/2018 - 12:38
Last edited 30/12/2018 - 13:17 by 1 other user

Hi all.

Recently (13/11/2018)bought a second-hand car from a registered dealer with around 147XXX. Did check with a mechanic and everything seem ok. But after a few days ( 25/11/2018) system error message started popping at the dashboard with system light on.

Contacted the dealer and left the car for repair. The next day dealer rings me tells me that the light on the dashboard is gone itself and everything seems fine. Took the car back from the dealer but last week(24/12/2018) it popped up again with additional check alternator sign in the dashboard ( battery sign light in the dashboard). When I was driving the power was low and the car went into power saving mode disabling most of the features in the car with airbag, ABS and other lights on.

Contacted the dealer and because of festive session mechanic is on holiday and asked to wait for a few days. Took the car yesterday( 29/12/2018) to have a quick look and when checking with OBD reader dealer stated that it was a battery problem and asked to change the battery. After changing a new battery car started ok with no errors in the dashboard and when he checked the alternator seem to be working fine.

When asked about engine light he said "there is an error code which says fuel is too fine (I was using supreme 98) so this could cause the engine light to popup " and asked me to use different fuel something like 91 or 95 (haven't heard that better fuel is sometimes bad for car before). Took the advice and took the car for the drive and went to work.

Same night when coming back from the work same error popped with check alternator on the dashboard and car went into power saving mode. parked the car in street and left the car in the middle of the night took uber and came home. Messaged the dealer and he told me that mechanic will be back at Wednesday after the New Year.

So what should I do now as I have paid to change the battery, and now seems like its the alternator fault? Engine light is back on and looks like the dealer did only clear the codes thru OBD reader.

Wait for the mechanic?

Bought the car about 2 months back with about 147xxx kms on the reader and still under 4000kms after the purchase. Do I have any consumer rights as warranty? All in all, what should I do now?

Edit: its a 2008 Holden Commodore Omega. in Sydney, NSW.

Automotive Holden Commodore

Comments

  • Baysew on 30/12/2018 - 12:45
    +1

    What is the make and model of the car? Might be something common to that model that someone here is familiar with.

    • akaanup on 30/12/2018 - 12:59

      Holden Commodore omega 2008

  • whooah1979 on 30/12/2018 - 12:47

    How old is the vehicle?

    • akaanup on 30/12/2018 - 12:58
      +1

      its 10-year-old vehicle (April 2008)

      • whooah1979 on 30/12/2018 - 13:14
        +2

        You're just outside of the statutory guarantee. You may have to contact Fair Trading NSW for advice.

        https://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/cars-and-other-vehicles/b…

        Second-hand vehicles (other than motorcycles)
        The dealer guarantee for a second-hand motor vehicle which had driven less than 160,000 km and was less than 10 years old when purchased is limited to 5,000 km after purchase, or three months after purchase, whichever occurs first.

  • Seedy seed on 30/12/2018 - 12:49

    1. They can turn the lights off with the code checker, so thats worth keeping in mind if it uses a lil checker.

    2. Take it to your mechanic if your paying

    3. Id rather get it fixed right then let the dealer put in whatever second hand part to get you down the road another month or 2

  • Ocker on 30/12/2018 - 12:54

    Which state are you located?

    • akaanup on 30/12/2018 - 12:59

      NSW

  • Cheeper on 30/12/2018 - 13:13
    +12

    It does sound like they just cleared the codes on your first visit. Quick easy fix to get rid of the customer.
    Why did they replace the battery..?? It seems it was doing it's one and only job… to start the car.
    Even with the original battery in it they could have checked the alternator then.
    They sold you a new battery… more profit for them.
    It is very simple to check an alternator with a $5 multimeter BTW.

    Is the dealer you bought the car from an agent for that car familiar with it? Thinking euro or similar here..
    Any evidence of who the previous owner was? They may have offloaded it for this reason and may know more about the fault?

    It is utter crap what they are saying about the 98 fuel. Fuel too fine can also mean the fuel supply is too lean and can be caused by a faulty MAF sensor, blocked fuel filter, etc…

    Try the dealer one more time and keep a copy of the list of problems you report to them. If still no good then go to your states consumer agency (DOFT in NSW) and see what they can get done.
    It is very common for car yards to screw you around and do as little as possible as most people just get fed up and pay for repairs elsewhere. Such is life.

  • steven6 on 30/12/2018 - 13:15
    +5

    Dealer is probably just clearing the error codes each time and telling you some other story. Also the dealer seems to be saying the problems are with items that aren't covered under warranty (battery). Very suspicious

  • spackbace on 30/12/2018 - 13:47
    -6

    2008 with 147,000kms was very likely a wholesaler rather than a major dealer.

    Either way, used car buying when outside warranty can be difficult, should do your checks before buying

    • knobbs on 30/12/2018 - 14:52
      +14

      What 'better checks' would you recommend for the novice? The guy got a mechanic to check it out who gave the ok.

      • JIMB0 on 30/12/2018 - 15:31
        +8

        Check the brand for a start. Holden isn't one of the most reliable car manufacturers.

      • Gronk on 30/12/2018 - 16:01
        +2

        What 'better checks' would you recommend for the novice? The guy got a mechanic to check it out who gave the ok.

        Getting a mechanic to check the car out is all that OP could have done, the issue is, there's only SO many things that can be checked within the time allowed for a pre-purchase inspection.

        Pre purchase inspections are really all about ensuring the vehicle is safe and in the bigger scheme of things the battery and alternator don't really have much impact on driver or passenger safety so it wouldn't surprise me that this wouldn't be picked up during an inspection.

        There are also some things which just can't be determined from a pre-purchase inspection, such as the condition of internal engine or transmission components, that's why it's always a bit of a roll of the dice buying a used car.

      • dcep on 30/12/2018 - 16:40
        +4

        Yeah, checks are redundant if you're picking from some random mechanics that don't gives a shit about it. They're just there to charge you for 99999 points checks that's full of shit.

        Only use your own trusted mechanics , if you don't have one then pray you ain't getting ripped.

      • PinzVidz on 30/12/2018 - 19:59
        +1

        Buy a car from Spackbace instead. He won't sell the novice buyer a Holden POS.

      • cameldownunder on 02/01/2019 - 10:46
        +1

        This is a list ( I think its pretty comprehensive ) which I'll use on my next second hand car sale
        https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&c…
        And I want to see Sevice receipts ( to see when Drums and brake pads have been replaced )

      • HighAndDry on 07/01/2019 - 12:48
        +1

        Honestly? For a novice - don't buy such an old car, with such high KMs, of such an unreliable brand and badge.

    • HighAndDry on 07/01/2019 - 12:48

      Don't know why this is being negged - buy an old used car with high KMs, do your due diligence and/or accept the risks. Comes with the territory. Even a mechanic can't check everything (well, they can but it'd cost more than the car at that point).

      • knobbs on 07/01/2019 - 12:51

        I didn't neg, was just genuinely curious as to what checks can be done. Appears none.

        • HighAndDry on 07/01/2019 - 12:53

          Sorry, wasn't directed at you - just that the comment was negged far more than I thought was warranted. Happy New Year!

  • pegaxs on 30/12/2018 - 14:25
    +12

    haven't heard that better fuel is sometimes bad for car before

    91 ~ 95 ~ 98RON is NOT a measure of "how good the fuel is". I don’t know how many times I have to explain it. It is a measure of their fuels ability to resist pre-ignition. That's all. It's not cleaner, it doesn’t give you more miles, it isn’t more energy dense, it doesn’t clean your fuel system.

    You can have really good 91RON fuel and really crap 98RON.

    How did this misinformation ever gain traction? Fuel companies have a lot to answer for.

    • [Deactivated] on 30/12/2018 - 15:05
      +24

      I don’t know how many times I have to explain it

      I did a quick search. 8 times this year and that's down from 11 times last year. Statistically, I'm guessing in 2019 you will need to mention in 5 times. I will wait for mathnerd to confirm my algorithm.

      • Seedy seed on 30/12/2018 - 16:01
        +5

        Your wrong. Thats aprox 27% drop, if you take 27% of 8 its much closer to 6 then a flat 5.

        Add to that the idea that as you have less to work with the returns will be less you are now likely looking at a 22% drop 😂
        Enjoy

        • [Deactivated] on 30/12/2018 - 17:30
          +8

          I forgot to mention that I rounded down as I am a glass half full kind of person.

        • smpantsonfire on 01/01/2019 - 14:51
          -2

          To be fair, there isn't enough information to conclude that it's 6 or 5.

          If we were doing grade 2 math, 5 would be the correct answer.

          Complete the sequence:

          11, 8, x

          I mean either answer could be right, however if we were in primary school, 5 would be correct.

        • cameldownunder on 02/01/2019 - 10:47

          But is is linear, the drop ?

    • dcep on 30/12/2018 - 16:42
      -2

      You forgot the sulfur content ppm in 91 vs 98 ?

      • pegaxs on 30/12/2018 - 18:16
        +8

        I forgot a lot of other irrelevant things, basically because it’s been said over and over again in this forum.

        RON is NOT an indicator of the quality of the fuel or its energy density. It is simply a scale by which someone knows the ability of the fuel to resist pre-ignition. That’s all.

        You could have a really good batch of 91RON fuel with a 12PPM Sulfur content and a shit batch of 98RON with a 38PPM sulphur content. You cannot tell that from the RON at the pump.

        Fuel companies want you to spend more money on expensive fuels. If your car is designed to run 91RON and you’re running 98RON because it’s “heaps moar power!” Or “I gets more miles per tank” then you have bought the bullshit sandwich big petrol companies are selling you.

        • Speckled Jim on 30/12/2018 - 20:27

          What about all the cars that require PULP, according to their manufacturers?

          If I buy a car that's PULP only, can I just make a base timing adjustment to run 91?

          • pegaxs on 30/12/2018 - 20:38
            +6

            @Speckled Jim: That is exactly what the RON is for. It’s so you know at the pump, what is the right fuel for your cars engine.

            If your car requires 98, you put 98 in it. You know it’s 98, because it’s labled as 98.

            You should not run lower RON fuels in your car, as it could cause damage, but going higher is not a problem, it just has little to no benefit and just costs more.

            And no. If your car is designed to run on 98 RON, it will run like crap on 91, even if you play with the timing. If you are in a pinch and had to use 91 to get out of trouble, no problem, but I would not try and de-tune a car just for the sake of running cheaper fuel.

            • Speckled Jim on 30/12/2018 - 20:47

              @pegaxs: Bummer, just that a few candidates need PULP and I'd eliminated them from consideration. Two have dizzies, two coil packs.
              I have an older car that I should really get running again. It was designed for and loved 91.

              • Pantagonist on 01/01/2019 - 10:50

                @Speckled Jim: Out of interest, which cars have a distributor and require premium unleaded?

                • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 11:09
                  +3

                  @Pantagonist: High compression/worked engine classic cars.

                  • Pantagonist on 01/01/2019 - 11:34

                    @pegaxs: Sure, that's a given. Just seemed like Jim was referring to a manufacturer recommendation and he wasn't talking about a performance car as using PULP is the least of your cost worries if you own one.

                    I've only seen PULP recommendations on cars from the mid to late 2000s at the earliest and I'm pretty sure that distributors were broadly phased out a fair while before that, hence my question.

                  • Melong on 02/01/2019 - 06:46
                    +1

                    @pegaxs: Also pretty much all European cars, they don’t even have 91 in eu

                • dangerdong on 03/01/2019 - 02:50

                  @Pantagonist: My Toyota Corolla with a 4AGE 20V has a dizzie and needs 98 RON haha

    • DiscoJango on 01/01/2019 - 09:08
      +1

      can you please confirm, if the feeling of getting more power is imaginary, when going from 91 to 98

      • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 09:49
        +9

        It's 90+% confirmation bias.

        In the odd occasion in some cars it may help, but not for the reasons that people think.

        The energy density of 91 and 98RON is near identical. There is no more "bang" in the fuel. 98RON fuel is designed to be used in engines that have high compression or forced induction. If you have not done the required work to increase your compression ratio, then the fuel has absolutely no net benefit, but your brain, that just paid $1.80/l, convinces your butt dyno that it was worth it.

        I have dyno'd plenty of vehicles in my life to know that going from 91 to 98 in a car that only requires 91 does nothing except empty your wallet faster. But i know there will be a bunch of bogans on to neg me into the ground 'cause "Me falcon goes heaps harder on 98" when a real dyno would say otherwise.

        98 is not more energy dense than 91, therefore, you can still only extract out of it the same amount of energy. The reason that some cars get 120hp and some get 600hp is that down to the amount of fuel that gets forced into the cylinder and how much the engine squashes it. The more that goes in and the more it gets squashed, the more power you can extract, but in doing that, the fuel need to resist pre-ignition under those condition, hence why your Camry uses 91RON to get 120hp and our neighbours Porsche GT3 uses 98RON to get 600hp. It's not the density of the fuel that changes, but how the engine uses it that changes. Putting 98RON in your Camry wont make it a 600hp Porsche. It will still be a Camry.

        • movieman on 01/01/2019 - 09:58

          Question.

          We recently switched to 98 RON on our Corolla, and the fuel efficiency economy has gone from 6.9 to 6.2 litres per 100km.

          Why is that, if your point is valid?

          • JungliChilli on 01/01/2019 - 10:31

            @movieman: Yeh I noticed something similar. Looking forward to a reply to the question.

          • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 10:34
            +11

            @movieman: Because "variables". Ie: how you drive, where you drive, where you filled up/quality of the fuel, how hot/cold it was, what the traffic was like, how inflated your tyres are, who was driving… The list goes on. So many variables can affect this. And 0.8 is hardly a saving.

            Most likely your brain said "Holy crap, this fuel is 30c/l dearer than normal 91, I better drive in a way to minimise the amount that I use."

            And let me guess… It also feels more powerful and responsive??

            Let's do some maths… (and I seriously cant work in l/100km, so 6.9 = 14.5km/l and 6.2 = 16.1km/l)

            The average Corolla has, let's say, a 55l fuel tank.
            55 x 14.5 = 797.5km/tank (6.9l/100km)
            55 x 16.1 = 885.5km/tank (6.2l/100km)
            In my area, 91 = 127.9/l, 98 = 145.1/l
            91 Tank of fuel cost = $70.35
            98 Tank of fuel cost = $79.81
            Amount of 91 used to go 885.5km (885.5/14.5) = 61l

            You use 61l of 91RON to go the same distance as 55l of 98RON

            61l of 91RON = $78. This is $1.80 cheaper than 98 for the same distance.

            It's over $8 cheaper per tank to fill up on 91 and works out cheaper in the long run once it's spread out over multiple tanks…

            eg: Over a year or approximately 15,000km (providing the price of fuel remains static)
            91 would cost you $1,323
            98 would cost you $1,345

            So, tell me again how my point is "invalid"???

            (NB: These are using movieman's figures and not an actual scientific test for consumption in controlled conditions. It is more than likely that the variation here is subject to conditions outside that of the fuel.)

            • rompastompa on 01/01/2019 - 11:21

              @pegaxs:

              91 would cost you $1,323
              98 would cost you $1,345

              Thanks for the detailed responses. The difference of $22pa is negligible, but your comment on the quality of fuel is probably more valid.

              Is there any way of knowing the quality? eg, is BP (who are usually more expensive) and Caltex better than going for an independent petrol station?

              • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 11:25
                +1

                @rompastompa:

                Is there any way of knowing the quality?

                I wish. It would be good to know things like this as well as the RON of what you are putting in your car. But a tank can vary from day to day. How long has it been sitting there, whats the weather like, how much venting it has done, how much water or dirt is in the tank.

                It would be nice to see the results on the pump at the station for their last quality check, but like with anything, it's so full of variables that even with their next delivery, it could wildly change.

                A nice little in tank sensor for cars would be nice so it would display on the dash what it thinks the quality of the fuel is. But until then, it's a guessing game.

                • rompastompa on 01/01/2019 - 11:32

                  @pegaxs:

                  A nice little in tank sensor for cars

                  That would be nice. Fuel manufacturers are probably in car manufacturers pockets, so it'll probably never happen. That, and EV potentially replacing ICE vehicles.

                  It does sound like a good feature though!

            • movieman on 01/01/2019 - 11:24

              @pegaxs: Thanks for the detailed reply.

              Will do more conclusive driving to confirm actual kilometres per tank. Main issue is tank only uses 40L till the fuel light comes on, so a bit hesitant to drive towards empty.

              If the fuel cost is similar, this way we fill up less often, but I appreciate your reply.

              • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 11:35
                +1

                @movieman: You can drive all you like, but the variables are just too inconsistent. What you need to do is put the car on a rolling road/dyno and keep the conditions exactly the same. You cant just "drive the car around" and expect reliable results.

                As an example, I have my work ute here that always get filled at the same station with the same fuel. I drive it to work and from work to do a pick up route and home in the afternoon. I can get from anywhere between 10km/l (9.8l/100km) down to 13km/l (7.6l/100km). It all depends on everything else that week, how i drive. How other arseholes around me drive, etc… Same fuel, wildly different fuel consumptions. You're trying to compare different fuels AND different conditions. Good luck with that.

                By all means, do it. I always find it interesting to keep track of my fuel usage, but know that the data you glean from it is rubbish data and not at all realistic or reliable.

            • bboredd on 02/01/2019 - 13:35

              @pegaxs: Can you explain the impact of fuelling up on a hot day vs cold day. Fact or myth? Thanks!

              • pegaxs on 02/01/2019 - 17:16
                +1

                @bboredd: by fueling up, do you mean refuelling the car or the engine getting too much fuel??

                I am going to assume the first.

                No, I cant explain it, but basically it works like this. Fuel is a fluid. When it is cold, it contracts. When it is warm, it expands. The exact amount it expands and contracts would be on Google.

                If you fill up when it is cold, the fuel is more dense. If you fuel in the afternoon, when it is hot, it is less dense.

                The only way this makes any difference is if you fill up when it's freezing cold at 4am and only do your driving when it's stinking hot at 11am to 2pm. You buy it dense, wait for it to expand, drive it while you have more, and park it when it is cold.

                The other thing is that a lot of fuel stations have buried fuel tanks. The tanks in the ground are not as subject to large temperature fluctuations like above ground tanks.

                So, can it make a difference, scientifically, yes. Does it make a difference, not really.

          • Ultramup on 01/01/2019 - 13:50
            +1

            @movieman: It’s not all “in your head” as @pegaxs pus it. Although I agree a lot of it is due to good marketing. Your cars onboard computer (ecu) does make some changes according to fuel type albeit very slight (nothing compared to modifying your engine to include higher compression pistons and running it on the dyno).

            Thee changes can include valve timing (Vvti) and ignition timing. Normally with higher Ron fuels the Ecu will delay ignition to make the most of the fuel as it is less likely to pre-ignite (knocking/detonation).

            This is what would contribute to your marginally increase fuel efficiency.

            • Ultramup on 01/01/2019 - 13:53

              @Ultramup: Before people jump on me - yes vvti can also be used for performance like the Toyota spotivo etc

            • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 14:41

              @Ultramup:

              It’s not all “in your head”

              A large proponent of it is in peoples heads. This is due to marketing. Fuel companies want you to believe that 98 is more efficient, when, in fact, unless your car is designed to utilise the extra benefits of it, it will have almost zero effect other than parting the poor consumer with their money.

              the Ecu will delay ignition

              With higher RON fuels, you usually advance the timing. You retard the timing to reduce pinging… The reason performance cars run like crap on 91RON is because the knock sensors pick up the pre-ignition knocks and retards the timing. Retarding the timing has the knock on effect of munting the performance. 91RON rated cars don’t care about the fuel being 98RON as adjustments are made when the knocking occurs, not because you put 98 in the tank.

              Only a select few cars on the market actually have sensors in them to detect what fuel is in the car. The chances of your cars ECU knowing what fuel it is running on is pretty slim. The way most cars do it is, the ECU picks up a shit load of pinging and adjusts. Engine keeps pinging, so ECU throw a code saying "wrong fuel used" because it has retarded the timing so much and it's still pinging. The car then knows that it's a fuel issue. A Camry doesn’t care in you use 98.

              • movieman on 01/01/2019 - 17:43

                @pegaxs: I understand some of the marketing promotes 98 RON as a tank cleaner.

                After some reading, this is due to additional additives being in the 98 RON.

                My theory (if what Pegaxs says is completely true) I'd that the car fuel system needed a 'clean', which the last month of using 98 RON provided.

                Now with the intention to go back to 91 and compare, it will be interesting.

                Thanks for your advice!

        • Name on 01/01/2019 - 11:09

          My lawn mower runs better on 98.

          • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 11:12
            +1

            @Name: Because they are typically air cooled, run hotter, have higher compression and pistons caked in carbon, all things that add to pre-ignition.

            Out of curiosity, how many km/l does your mower get?? :D

            • Name on 01/01/2019 - 11:23
              +3

              @pegaxs: Hah it gets me 0.5km / L of beer.

              • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 11:26

                @Name: Better than my neighbours mower then. I think it gets about 0.1km/beer… :D

          • payless69 on 01/01/2019 - 11:13

            @Name: put a bit of ether into it and more chicks will make faces at you!

            • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 11:14
              +2

              @payless69: Nah, It's all about running racing castor oil in your 2 stroke to make it smell like a go-kart. That's where all my old go-kart racing fuel ends up.

              • smpantsonfire on 01/01/2019 - 14:59

                @pegaxs: Hey pegaxs, could you elaborate on the 98 fuel from BP. It's advertised with engine cleaners in the fuel.

                If the cost is negligible, would it be better to use the 98 for this reason too?

                Cheers

                • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 16:26

                  @smpantsonfire: It just means that the fuel is loaded with more detergents. It’s mostly a garbage thing to get you to buy their brand of fuel.

                  And if it’s only a few cents extra for premium, go nuts… if it’s 30¢ difference, forget it.

                  • ShortyX on 02/01/2019 - 09:28
                    +1

                    @pegaxs: Thoughts on this?

                    https://youtu.be/eHE5wo6XPf4

                    • pegaxs on 02/01/2019 - 09:38

                      @ShortyX: HAHAHAAH… Got to the first guy at the piss trough, lost it, laughed my arse off… :D

                      'cause "Me falcon goes heaps harder on 98"

                      But the rest of it is spot on. So much so, that I am going to quote this video every time this subject comes up with "moar power/milez/cleanz".

          • knasty on 01/01/2019 - 11:33
            +2

            @Name: My mower runs better since filling it with fully synthetic oil. Oh and I put new sharp blades on for the first time in 12 years. If I use 98 it'll practically cut the lawn itself.

        • DiscoJango on 01/01/2019 - 16:07

          interesting. thank you for the detailed reply.

        • bargainfinder on 02/01/2019 - 19:19

          Hi Pegaxs, What about E10 fuel vs 98 fuel? i usually filled up from Costco and they only have 94E10 or 98 fuel only, they are 20c/l price difference. Will running E10 damage( or not good) for an 2018 Nissan x trail engine?

          • pegaxs on 02/01/2019 - 20:09

            @bargainfinder: What does the x-trail require and what are you hoping to gain from it??

            If the x-trail only required 91 ~ 95, then E10 is fine in this case. If the x-trail requires 98, then only 98.

            And don’t listen to all the other know nothings on this forum when it comes to E10, you wont get 200km less per tank over 98RON. At worst, E10 is about 2% less energy dense than straight fuel. You will not get as many km/tank from E10, but it's about 2~5% less, not 25+% less some drongos would have you believe.

            At a 20c difference per litre, and if your car is E10 suitable (give Nissan a call and confirm with them), I would run the E10 if they are your only two options. If the difference is under 10c, then go with 98.

            • bargainfinder on 03/01/2019 - 11:10

              @pegaxs: The car only need 91unleaded fuel. I oviously want to run it the most economical way and want to keep the car for a minimum 10 years.
              I just called Nissan today and they said stick with 91RON, not the E10 as he said if there are problems with the car and they found out that E10 has been use, thry will void the warranty of the car.

              • pegaxs on 03/01/2019 - 11:49

                @bargainfinder:

                they will void the warranty of the car.

                Ask them for that in writing. Ask where in the owners manual or on their website does it specifically say that the warranty is void if you use E10?

                From the Nissan Australia website;

                Can my Nissan vehicle run on fuel containing ethanol?

                Nissan vehicles manufactured from 1 January 2004 are capable of operating on ethanol blends of up to E10 (10% ethanol), providing the following conditions are met:

                • The fuel (including ethanol-blend), meets the requirements of the Australian Fuel Quality Standards,
                • A credible history of servicing as per Nissan's recommended service schedule can be shown, and
                • Blending the petroleum and ethanol components have been done properly, for example at a fuel refinery (ie there is no "splash"-blending of the fuel).

                However it is important to remember that some Nissan vehicles require Premium Unleaded Petrol (PULP) 95 RON as the minimum recommended fuel. Most ethanol blended fuels in Australia blend 10% Ethanol with 91 RON unleaded petrol (ULP) and they do not meet all fuel standards for PULP (95 RON).

                Nissan vehicles manufactured before 1 January 2004 are capable of operating on ethanol-blended ULP, although Nissan does NOT recommend using ethanol-blended fuel in these vehicles.

                "Does NOT recommend" is a long way short of "voids warranty."

          • llama on 03/01/2019 - 00:26

            @bargainfinder:

            Will running E10 damage( or not good) for an 2018 Nissan x trail engine?

            There will be a sticker on the inside of the fuel door that answers that question.

      • payless69 on 01/01/2019 - 11:28
        -1

        after teaching 2 kids on a manual Corolla with a carbureted ae85 engine we did a test before selling it: BP ultimate and heaps of timing advance to the pinging point: Substantial more torque to take off so temporary fun. Aftermath: Hotspots in engine, cv joints overloaded, endless roll starts made the timing belt pop halfway thru its life. Forget it with anything injected!

    • payless69 on 01/01/2019 - 10:58
      -1

      But a Hiclone will make a sound tingling with your money you have wasted…

      • pegaxs on 01/01/2019 - 11:06

        Nothing like adding a snake oil fix in for extra money wastage :D

    • Chandler on 02/01/2019 - 11:43
      +2

      How did this misinformation ever gain traction?

      Marketing.

      Brand 91RON 98RON
      Caltex Unleaded 91 Vortex Premium 98
      BP Regular Unleaded Ultimate
      Shell Unleaded 91 V-Power Unleaded 98
      Mobil Special Unleaded 91 Supreme+ 98

      Sounds better, and higher numbers mean better, yeah?

      We put the good things in, so you can wear the Dolmio Premio grin!

    • Zachary on 25/04/2020 - 10:47

      It is a measure of their fuels ability to resist pre-ignition. That's all. It's not cleaner, it doesn’t give you more miles, it isn’t more energy dense, it doesn’t clean your fuel system.

      …which can help prevent pinging, especially if you're a revhead or and have a car with large throttle openings….? But if you don't thrash your car about or have large throttle openings, I guess it's just a waste of money?

      • pegaxs on 25/04/2020 - 11:20

        If your car is not designed or tuned for 95~98RON, there is no point using it.

        You can be a rev-head in a 2008 Camry, it doesn't suddenly mean that you need to put 98RON fuel in it.

        And throttle openings have little to do with it as well. You can put a 200mm throttle body on a Hyundai Accent and it doesn't mean you need to change up to 98RON fuel. Now, if you put on a bigger throttle body, sports exhaust, race air filter, bigger injectors and decked the head or added a turbo, then sure, it would be wise to re-tune that vehicle for 95~98. Hell, if I went to that much trouble, I would be looking at running it in E85 (105RON)

        The vehicles that need higher RON fuels are those that are either tuned for it, those that have higher compression.

        The exception to those are the unserviced/neglected, older cars that have a caked up layer of carbon built up in the compression chamber or on the piston. Carbon creates hot spots, hot spots create pre-ignition, pre-ignition causes pinging. Running higher RON fuel in these cars may alleviate some of the "symptoms" but not fix the cause.

        I guess it's just a waste of money?

        Yes. Run what your vehicle manufactueres hand book suggests you run. (Unless you're a bogan. In that case, higher RON = MoAr PoWaH and MoAr MiLeZ!!1!!!1!1) There is no harm in putting a higher RON fuel in your car, except for emptying your wallet a bit faster. BUT! Be warned, do not run lower RON fuels in your car for any long period of time. Once off, emergency, ok, but don't endlessly run 91 in your 98RON required Porsche/Ferrari/Lambo/Audi/BMW Westpac Investment Vehicle.

        • Zachary on 26/04/2020 - 13:20

          sports exhaust

          Something like an aftermarket catback exhaust or a straight through pipe? Didn't know putting in a new exhaust would warrant this….

          it would be wise to re-tune that vehicle for 95~98.

          Is there a way to find out if a car's been re-tuned when you buy a used car, assuming the previous owner or seller doesn't tell you a thing about it or not really?

          Hell, if I went to that much trouble, I would be looking at running it in E85 (105RON)

          Do they even sell 105 RON or E85 here…?

          The exception to those are the unserviced/neglected, older cars that have a caked up layer of carbon built up in the compression chamber or on the piston. Carbon creates hot spots, hot spots create pre-ignition, pre-ignition causes pinging. Running higher RON fuel in these cars may alleviate some of the "symptoms" but not fix the cause.

          That carbon layer can be cleaned out, right? They're probably unserviced/neglected because they don't trust mechanics to do the servicing and do the servicing themselves and then later forget about it eventually….or don't service the car properly/thoroughly as is recommended in the owner's manual….as it is very unozbargain to get someone else to do it for you if you can do it yourself, right?

          • pegaxs on 26/04/2020 - 14:30

            @Zachary: Putting a new exhaust on by itself, probably not, coupled with all the other mods I mentioned, sure.

            There is no way to find out if a car has been re-tuned by just looking at it. You would need some diagnostic software and know what you are looking for.

            E85 is available in plenty of places, you just gotta know where to look.

            And there are ways of cleaning out the carbon, yes, but usually once it gets to that point, removing it could cause other issues.

            And learning how to service your own car should be at the top of people’s lists once it gets well outside the warranty period.

            • Zachary on 29/04/2020 - 23:03

              @pegaxs: I see, so you'll need to bring it to a specialist performance workshop to find out whether it's been tuned already or requires tuning so it's performing its optimal or peak efficiency.

              And learning how to service your own car should be at the top of people’s lists once it gets well outside the warranty period.

              That's only if you can be bothered and or don't trust dealerships and local mechanic workshops to work on your car(s) after the warranty period and continuing the servicing schedules as planned out by the logbook…. Of course there are some things you simply can't do yourself, such as dyno testing (unless you have the equipment at your house ready to go) and probably some other stuff too that require specialist tools to test or check, that I've not yet come across that would require paying a workshop mechanic to complete for you. Unless you're friends with the mechanic in which case you might be able to use his tools for free(Or at least at a reduced cost) and service your own car with them…

  • swapsey on 30/12/2018 - 16:32
    +6

    Sounds to me like you are in a deep black hole of ten year old commodore variety and that you should really expect one thing after another to go wrong over the next 12 months. Any other idea is fantasy and wishful thinking. Today its the battery, then alternator, then transmission, then….

    How much did you pay for the car?

    • akaanup on 30/12/2018 - 22:51

      5k

      • Name on 01/01/2019 - 11:14

        Yeah. My commodore got to the 13 year mark and 200ks when everything started going wrong. Seemed like every 2nd month I had to fix something in it right up until I gave it away to a mate. Gave it away because no one wanted it. Wreckers would only give $200.

        Worst was I was on the highway with no shoulder and oil light came on, I wasn't stopping on the highway in a trafficable lane. Made it to the next exit, came to a stop at the signals and boom. Car engine seized. Had a whole 2nd hand engine put in to replace it.

        You should download a service manual for it and start learning how to fix cars because you'll spend a fortune on it otherwise. Big things go to a mechanic but small things like radiator hose replacement can do yourself.

    • JTTheMan on 02/01/2019 - 15:10

      Yes, this is all you need to know!

      It sounds like the dealer sold you a lemon and there is no way to fix it. Live and learn. All up, 5k minus what you sell it for is a small price to pay for this lesson.

      A more expensive mistake would be to keep the car.

  • dcep on 30/12/2018 - 17:28
    +4

    OP let me tell you what is going to happen

    you paid for new battery but the problem isn't even on battery & your old battery is perfectly fine at holding charge

    you'll pay for new alternator but the problem isn't even on alternator & your old alternator is perfectly fine at charging the battery

    and the list continues,

    in the end, you're paying for replacing shits that are perfectly fine and working

    • akaanup on 30/12/2018 - 22:51
      +2

      so what should i do now?

      • Name on 01/01/2019 - 11:17
        +3

        Get a second opinion, as it seems the mechanic is taking you for a ride.

      • stewy on 01/01/2019 - 13:31

        Ask around your friends and colleagues, find a decent Auto electrician and get them to look at the car.

        Chances are it'll be a common issue which a decent auto electrician will be able to easily work out.

    • kevsta on 02/01/2019 - 10:55

      This is spot on. Exactly what I went through, but with a dealership. They simply don't know how to trouble shoot electrical problems and keep asking you to replace parts that don't fix the problem.

  • Cartman2530 on 30/12/2018 - 18:14

    If its the V6, that comment about the fuel is a load of bull.

    I ran nothing but 98 in the 3 years I had the exact same car as you, and absolutely no warning lights of any kind.

    Wait for your mechanic.

    • Mitch889 on 01/01/2019 - 07:59
      -4

      You wasted a lot of money doing that.

      • Cartman2530 on 01/01/2019 - 09:55
        +1

        Actually it was the opposite, my fuel economy was much better than using 91, it worked out cheaper per kilometre to use 98. And yes, I tested that theory thoroughly. And there is no way I'd put E10 in my car at all, since most places in NSW don't actually have any 91 only pumps anymore.

        I'd suggest you do your own actual tests, mine were conclusive.

        • SnoozeAndLose on 01/01/2019 - 21:19
          -2

          And there is no way I'd put E10 in my car at all, since most places in NSW don't actually have any 91 only pumps anymore.

          there are at least 1/2 of the petrol station have unleaded 91(within NSW). unless you live in Alice Spring

  • ThatKiwiFella on 30/12/2018 - 22:05

    Go into an auto electrician and ask to have a load test done on the battery. It tests both battery and alternator under load so you'll know if your problem lies in either of them

Login or Join to leave a comment
Login Join