Buying a Used Car - Need Serious Helping In Choosing - Budget $6k

Hi guys,

Was thinking of getting a used car, and it will be my first car. Budget around 5-6 grand.

These are the cars I listed out

Subaru Liberty,Ford XR6, Honda Accord Euro, Camry, Mazda 6/3, Lancer.

Quite interested in Liberty, XR6, and the Honda.

Lots of people telling me to go for XR6 and Camry, but the Camry is kinda hard finding a car that is below 200k km's, no one actually told me about Liberty but there are quite a few in the market. There are quite a few XR6's as well.

Could you guys help me out? Am really having a headache deciding which car to get, and just can't get a peace of mind. I want to get a car which I can drive with a peace of mind. Plus I don't really have a mechanic which I trust so what should I do? Is Ultra Tune a good place to take my car in for an inspection before buying the car?

Thanks alot guys :)

Comments

  • +14 votes

    Camry.

    /end.

    •  

      Yeah but its hard to find low kms for the camry :( Thats why :(

      •  

        it's not hard. No one is sells a low km camry @ $5k. If you don't set a reasonable budget for a low km car, take compromises, such as high km or a cheaper model like yaris

      • +2 votes

        There are literally heaps of Camrys on "carsales" that have less than 150,000km and are exactly in your price range. I found a 2007 model in silver with 129,000km for $5,900. Talk them down to $5,000 area and bam, you have a low KM Camry in your budget. Hell, just found a 2004 Sportivo with 107,000 for $6,000… You cant be looking real hard…

        It may seem like a bit of a meme, but it's because it really is the answer. They are just the type of car that goes and goes, never gives up and takes forever to be driven into the ground. They are cheap to buy and maintain, really well build and last forever. In the next nuclear holocaust, the only things that will survive will be cockroaches and Toyota Camrys.

        Avoid the XR6. It will have the guts thrashed out of it and they will have really high "taxi" type km on them. Avoid the Honda/Subaru, cost of repairs can be a little expensive. Avoid the Mitsu Lancer, because *ahem* bit of a shitbox.

        But would consider a Mazda. Something like a Mazda 2 or Mazda 3 from around 2007. Even found a few of them for in your budget with only 100,000km on them.

        PS: *a lot

  • -1 vote

    Don't buy a Lemon.

    /end.

  • +8 votes

    Are you interested in 2007 Corolla with only 63,000 kms ?

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/437610

  • +1 vote

    If you've never bought a car, and know nothing about cars (especially faults/issues to check for) , then you really should take someone with you (a friend who knows at least a little bit).

    6k is alot of money to risk IMO. Though if you have to go alone, a mechanics check would be good (though cannot pick up on everything with a simple check).

    Regarding pricing, I always check redbook.com.au
    You can check any vehicle on redbook. Particularly take note of average km done (on redbook) and take note of lowest trade in value. If you're patient, you should be able to pick up a vehicle for about the lowest trade in price on redbook (then you know you have a bargain , long as there's no problems).

    I'm sure ozbargain experts can advise of which of those options is generally a more reliable vehicle and less prone to faults and expensive repairs.
    I know the old Toyota Camry (up until 1996) were pretty much unbreakable mechanically (and I did try), I spent nothing on maintenance for my old Camry, didn't even change oil, and not a single major fault or repair. So I guess Camry's are still fairly reliable.

    •  

      Yeah its alot of money thats why im pretty worried, ive seen my friends buy an astra for 5k and another friend who bought a civic for 6k, both of which has around120k kms, they didnt even take it to a mechanic to check, they just bought it after test driving it. From private sellers with an rwc supplied. And it has been all good till now

      • +1 vote

        Best to take along which ever friend knows the most about cars and mechanical type stuff.
        Not just a friend who bought a car.
        I don't know much…. But there are a few things friends in the know taught me such as
        -Look for lots of smoke out exhaust, often means engine is on it's way out. Source, friend that sells his cars on gumtree when engine on its way out
        -Look underneath vehicle with a torch and spot where there has been a leak (doesn't need to be leaking at the time, but look for stains where it has leaked, at some time) .
        -Check engine oil for signs of water/coolant in there (sign of busted head gasket) . They might change oil just before sale to hide this though.
        -Google search the exact vehicle (with year and model) and add to search the words used and review . Search through all reviews, you should be able to ascertain common issues and failures with that exact vehicle. Then learn yourself how to check for that particular issue (either learn online or ask a friend who knows cars).
        Eg. You drive really slow and turn, to check 1 particular issue (I think it is CV joint test, but can't remember, it was a while ago).
        Another example, car I was interested in had reviews of common auto gearbox issue, the test/check was go up and down gears and see that they change quick going up and change quick going down.

        Note None of self checks above will be 100% guaranteed to be effective in detecting issues/faults. But even mechanic check (which I guess is worth it on 6k spend) mechanics check gives no guarantee at all that everything will be checked and faults detected.
        There is also many many things to take note of mechanically etc (not just what I mentioned) when buying used cars. That's why best to have someone that knows cars with you at initial test drive etc, then maybe still take it to mechanics for a check.

        • +1 vote

          Also:

          • Have a look at the kms/years of the car and then Google it. For example, don't buy a car with 120-150k kms (roughly speaking) that hasnt' already had the timing belt replaced. You can probably tell just by looking at the belt. It can get really effing expensive. My 2004 Astra was due for a belt and it was going to be a $1000 fix.

          • Similarly, there are often some really expensive services to "look forward to" at that kind of mileage. My old Lancer cost me $800 to do a major service because they were replacing heaps of the fuel injector components (i think)

          • The Honda might cost you more for servicing because its not a local car, its a "fancy European car". Insurance will be higher too

          • Have a look at the door panels from side-on. If you can see ugly welding, it can be a sign that there's been major panel damage and the car has been in an accident at some point

          • I like to make a specific point of checking these things, so they think you're knowledgeable. Funnily enough, they start to tell you

  • +2 votes

    As chewy said:

    ozbargain experts can advise of which of those options is generally a more reliable vehicle and less prone to faults and expensive repairs.

    All cars can have their issues and as they are machines parts will wear out and fail. I'd go for the one that has the best service history and is best presented and find a well recommended mechanic to give it a good check over.

    I've owned over 20 Subaru's and contrary to legend, I've only had one with a headgasket issue and this was due to a stuffed water pump and me forgetting to top it up with water on the way back after purchasing it.

    I've also now owned a few Mitsubishi's and they've been great too. I keep all my vehicles well serviced.

  •  

    Manual or automatic?

  • +1 vote

    You are buying a USED car. Even the best car can have weird things done to it by a previous owner/s.
    Got any friends? work mates? relations? that you can speak with? Sounds like you need more help than what you will ever find in a forum.
    Mobile mechanics also do inspections at the car yard for you.
    Tip #1… Anything a salesman says is a lie, unless they give it to you in writing.

    •  

      Yeah i know i need a ton of help haha. Its really scary buying a used car. Basically i have none. i only speaked with a guy from a workshop who told me to buy a falcon cos its bulletproof as he drives one as well, and he said that he would be able to help me inspect a car first if i need to. thats about it. haha.

      yeah thats why, i was thinking more to the private side.

  • +4 votes

    Some things to check:

    • $2 PPSR.gov.au search (to ensure it isn't stolen, a write-off or owing finance)
    • service records (especially expensive maintenance items like the timing belt, although many newer cars have a timing chain that doesn't need servicing)
    • look for any smoke in exhaust, either on startup or when running (little bit of steam is ok if engine is cold)
    • oil is not 'milky' (look inside filler cap)
    • spare tyre and jack are present
    • air conditioning works
    • do a thorough test drive, do some hard acceleration, braking and also get it up to 100 km/h or at least top gear, listen for any rattling or weird noises
    • look for any fault lights on dashboard (check engine light or ABS light, all the dash lights should illuminate on start up but then turn off after a few seconds)
    • tyre tread, look for good tread and no uneven wear
    • ask owner plenty of questions. E.g… Does it have any damage? Was it ever in an accident? How long have you owned it? What work have you had done? What would you take for it?

    Not all of these things would get picked up in the rwc inspection.

    There is a heap of good videos on YouTube about inspecting a used car.

    Even if your budget is $6k maybe try negotiate or get something closer to $5k to leave a little buffer for extra expenses.

    • +1 vote

      to leave a little buffer for extra expenses

      Like third party property insurance at the bare minimum

    •  

      look for any fault lights on dashboard (check engine light…

      My check engine light has been going strong for well over 5 years now!

      •  

        That reminds of the time I went to inspect a private sale MkV Golf. We went for a test drive and I was driving quite conservatively and the check engine light came on. The owner told me it was my fault. I drove back to his place and we parted ways.

        •  

          I have a golf 5 too! I heard it's a common issue.

          In fact, this is my current dash. I need to give my car some love.

      •  

        My check engine light has been going strong for well over 5 years now!

        Probably wasted about $3K-$4K in fuel as well over those 5 years, if you average 20K km/year.

        •  

          Please tell me more.

          • +2 votes

            @thevofa: The ECU will be running on failsafe mapping whilst the check engine light is on. When cruising or on the highway, the ECU will keep to a limited stoichiometric value and not lean out as much as designed to, hence use more fuel.

            •  

              @PinzVidz: Thank you - I will now look into this. I used to have my car serviced by a VW specialist who never brought this up. He told me it was due to some exhaust sensor which was largely inconsequential. I do actually feel like the fuel economy is down - for the first time in years I reset my odo at the last fill to see what's happening.

    • +4 votes

      Also:

      • If the car is already warm, or already running when you turn up - walk away (has issues when car is started/cold)
      • If the car is 10+ years old and the engine bay in immaculate - walk up (cleaned up/hiding some serious leaks)
      • If the front or rear bumper is showroom quality, not a mark, but the licence plate is a bit bent/warped - walk away (been in a crash and didn't bother paying for replacement plates)
    •  

      Don't forget to put your hand on the engine before you start the car. A warm engine hides a lot of starting issues.

      You want to start the engine cold.

    • +1 vote

      also

      • before you start the car - check if the engine is cold. if it is cold and starts easily it's not a bad sign. i.e. the car starts easily. spark plugs, distributor/ coils/whatever are OK. battery is ok. the engine is getting fuel ok.

      • drive around many corners to check how the steering handles. no over-steer. no spongy steering.

      • look for the gaps between the panels are all even. uneven gaps might mean panel replacement.- which means possible accidents.

  • -1 vote

    raise your budget, buying that low you're asking to buy problems that will blow out your budget with repairs.

    https://www.pickles.com.au/cars/fixed-price#!/search-result?q=(And.FixedPriceFlag.True._.FixedPrice.range(1..10000).)

    From that list probably Kia Rio, near new, still has factory warranty, fleet serviced car.
    https://www.pickles.com.au/cars/item/-/details/CP-10-16--Bui...

  •  

    Don't buy a Liberty. Source: I bought a Liberty and I see (profanity) Liberty's all over the place.

    •  

      So do you mean this car in unreliable?

    •  

      That might be a bit of a Baader-Meinhof going on.

    •  

      Parents own a liberty. It uses so much fuel I feel as if they would have been better off buying a Corolla and throwing the extra cash in the fire instead.

      I.e 65L of ULP98 (and you have to use premium) only gets you 400km, if you're lucky.

  • +1 vote

    We've had all those cars in the driveway… and more.

    XR6. Heavy on fuel - Expect 16-18l/100km depending where/how you drive. This is fine if you don't use the car much.
    Possibility of being driven harder than a standard Falcon. Personally, I'd look for a Fairmont or whatever the latest name for the fancy Falcon is as they are almost the same as an XR6. Check how much comprehensive insurance will be too. You might be shocked.

    Camry or Corolla. I hate Toyotas but these are a no-brainer. If you keep searching you will find one with low(er) kms. Ultimately, for a $6k car it's more about condition and service history.

    Liberty. I had the Gen 2. I found it disappointingly slow and it chewed through fuel (for what it was). No matter how I tweaked it I couldn't do better than 10l/100km and generally got 12L/100km. Not the most reliable of cars either. I was glad to see the back of it.

    Honda Accord Euro. My daughter has had a 2005 (?) Luxury (HIDS, leather, sunroof) model since 2016. It had been poorly maintained. the gearbox shifted badly, the power steering kicked back and the brakes squealed. We changed engine oil, trans, PS and brake fluid. Cleaned the inlet plenum, new spark plugs, air, transmission and fuel filter. It drove like a new car. They are very quick for an NA 2.4L and handle well once they settle into a corner. They do like a drink. I think she averages 9L/100km around town with short trips.
    I also changed the front v-tec filter (rear still to be done) and the front control arm bushes need replacing. Front brake pads done just before Xmas for $60 It also wears the right rear tyre on the inside for no obvious reason but I haven't looked that hard as to why (yet).
    If you haven't guessed, I really like the car. It's fun and involving to drive.

    No matter what you buy, you'll probably have occasional issues. Put aside $1k/yr for servicing, repairs and tyres. You might not spend it all in one go but over 5 years that will be about right.

    At a minimum, get Third Party Property Damage Insurance.

    Ask yourself now. Do I really want to spend $6k on a car and another $2.5k/yr on fees and maintenance? That's a lot of train trips and Ubers…

    • +1 vote

      Honda Accord Euros are a brilliant balance between practical and reliable, and still sporty and just generally nice to drive around.

      • +2 votes

        Indeed.
        We've taken it on holidays twice as the kids can't drive my manual.

        If you let it rev (V-tech YO!) it overtakes nicely and gets to jail-time speeds easily. Tip it in to a corner smoothly and then apply some power to make it settle on the suspension and you can carry a lot of corner speed.

        Ours is an early one on 205/55r16 tyres and it's suprising.

        Unfortunately, ours was caught in the January Sydney hail storm and looks pretty crap now.

        •  

          Ah shame =/. It's one of those cars that I swear would last forever if it's just decently taken care of. And it has one of the old-school Vtecs that you can solidly feel just kick-in. (On second thoughts, maybe not the best family car haha).

  •  

    Xr6 and camry are both good (have Falcon and Camry in household).

    but if you're buying used take a knowledgeable friend. all used cars can have faults

  •  

    Camry is the tried and tested one, but if you want something a bit less common, and a bit more fun and sporty, go the Accord Euro. Especially the slightly older CL9s that are within your budget - very fun to throw around corners, for a 4-dr sedan.

  •  

    If you aren't confident doing a mechanical check, you can get the auto club (RAC, NRMA, AANT, RACQ etc) to come out and inspect it for you. RAC offers both workshop and mobile inspections. It isn't a guarantee there's no problems, but it's a good start.
    https://rac.com.au/car-motoring/car-servicing-and-repair/veh...

    To do this, find a car you love and agree on price and that you'll be organising an inspection. Give the seller a small deposit to hold the car (like $100), then organise and pay for the inspection. If the inspection comes out fine, pay the seller the rest of the money and off you go. If the inspection comes back troublesome, depending on the severity of the problems, either negotiate a reduced price with the seller, or walk away. You will have lost your deposit and the inspection money but consider it money saved in the long run by not buying yourself a lemon.

    •  

      The following checks are included:
      Engine - Oil level and condition, all fluid levels and condition, power steering, cooling system pressure test, drive belts and pulleys, mounts, noises, radiator and cap condition, road test.
      Under body – Exhaust system, drive line, steering components, suspension, fuel hoses, wheel bearings, shock absorbers.
      Brakes – Brake pads and discs, hand brake, brake hoses.
      Tyres – Inspect all tyres including spare, rims and nuts.
      Battery and charging system – Electrolyte level, terminals and leads, charge rate, condition, type and size.
      Lighting – Exterior and interior lights.
      Interior components – Seatbelts, window operation, air conditioner operation.

      Yeah, i won't pay $300 for that.
      Those who recommends for inspection, please put a caveat that your recommendation is not referring to some random stranger mechanic but only use a trusted ones.

      •  

        Yeah you won't pay $300 for that, sure. But someone who knows absolutely nothing about cars might find that an attractive option. Also someone who knows nothing about cars and hasn't got any friends who know about cars, like the OP, probably doesn't have a trusted mechanic, which is why I suggested the auto club in their state, which as close as you can get to trusted if you don't know any mechanics to begin with.

  •  

    Just buy the Camry. Look at every really old car still on the road- high chances it's a Camry. They're bulletproof.

  • +1 vote

    Mazda. Definitely the most fun to drive from that list. I got a Mitsubishi TJ Magna back in the day, it was a fantastic and reliable first car with great looks (the main reason I chose it). Don't see them around much anymore, their time is unfortunately over. If I had to choose today, I'd probably go for a Lexus LS400.

  •  

    For $5-6k is relatively low budget so pick a low cost maintenance car.
    XR6 is not fuel economical unless you find LPG version.
    Accord Euro requires unleaded 95 which adds to your running cost.
    The Camry fits your criteria for budget and reliability.
    Low KMS is important.
    The problem in this price range is you'll find many cars and many different types of owners.
    You need a friend to help with inspections. You can read as much as possible but you'll just end up missing the basic checks and start questioning non essential things and just confuse yourself.
    If you are not using the RACV inspection service or a friend to help, from my experience buying cars over the years, here are some points that will give you peace of mind:
    1. Logbook service up to date, if no up to date records then don't buy
    2. Owner appears reasonable and from a decent suburb/area. I've come to many inspections throughout different suburbs and there is a difference in demographics and owner honesty. A 40yo Camry owner in eastern suburbs is always different than a P plater in the western suburbs Melbourne. Not necessarily dodgy, the car is just maintained differently.
    I don't like generalising but I have experienced it many times myself buying cars.
    3. Look at what other cars they own and condition of it.
    4. If the owner tells you to meet at Hungry Jack's carpark then forget about it
    5. Owner is willingly open to provide RWC.
    If the owner is confident it will pass for RWC then that's a good sign.
    If they give you 100 excuses why they can't be bothered arranging RWC then forget it, there is clearly an issue they know about.

    You could read about mechanical things to look out for but you'll end up forgetting or not looking properly.

    There is always going to be problems in a $5K car. But buy from a proper owner and at LEAST you can cancel out some of the lemons, especially if you don't have car knowledge on what to look out for.

    •  

      While the book says 95ron, my daughter uses mainly e10 94ron in hers; throws in some 98ron every blue moon. It seems fine. Power and torque are good. No pinging.

      My father owned it before her and my sister before that and they are both tightwads, so I'd bet my left one they used ULP92 (which does affect torque) or e10.

  • +1 vote

    Accord Euro is the best of this bunch, nicest combination of power, ride and nice interior. Very reliable as well

  • +1 vote

    I'd stay away from the Subarus, they are not cheap to service as they get older.

  •  

    The other good car to look out for is the Accord Seppo (the larger a USA made Accord). Dad had a V6 luxury (likes fuel) and couldn't give it away. There's also a 2.4L 4 cylinder version. They are nice cars if you like things a bit softer.

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Honda-Accord-2005/S...

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Honda-Accord-2004/S...

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Honda-Accord-2005/S...

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Honda-Accord-Euro-2...

  •  

    Ok guys thank you so much for all your help, I've read everything and honestly

    Think ill be going for a Camry, LOL

    My source is Facebook marketplace, I've raised my budget to 7k max

    And quite a few sportivo's around, at least it kinda compensates for the other cars that I wanted, like you know 'sporty' a little. I guess. haha, but well yeah there are quite a few Camry's ranging from 2007-2008 with around 140-170k's

    all with rwc supplied and the people are more than willing to take it down to a mechanic for me to check and etc, does that sound good? When I go to the mechanic should I ask him to check when the timing belt was last changed? is that probably one of the more important things I have to ask first?

    • +1 vote

      40 series Camry (2006-2011) are a pretty bulletproof car. Sportivo in 40 series is a good choice as it will have all the bags standard and also VSC (stability/traction control) if mid-2007 onwards.

      Other good thing about this model Camry too, the original POS radio (which BTW its display is way too bright at night) can easily be replaced, with fascias and parts available to suit. Down the track when you've saved some $$$, fit some Apple CarPlay/Android Auto goodness to bring it up to 2019 standards.

      When I go to the mechanic should I ask him to check when the timing belt was last changed?

      2AZ-FE uses a timing chain.

      Couple of things to look for;

      Front engine cover on the 2AZ-FE tends to leak oil and needs removal/proper reseal. Not a huge job.

      Dashpads had a manufacturing defect where over time the material breaks down, gets all sticky and starts to cause some seriously bad reflections on the windscreen. Toyota Australia offered to owners of 40 series Camrys (and Aurions) to replace the dashpad free of charge if the vehicle was under 10 years from its first registration date.

      When looking at Camrys, ask the owner if they were aware of this issue and if the dashpad had been replaced. If the dashpad is sticky/melted etc. and it's over 10 years from first rego date (check in warranty/service book), then pull the seller down more on price. Probably cover it up with a dashmat and forget about it if you buy the vehicle.

        • +1 vote

          Oh, I didn't realise you were looking at Aurions as well. All Aurion 40 series (2006-2011) come with all the bags and VSC standard, no matter what variant. The dash issue I mentioned earlier affects them also. The 2GR-FE V6 sludges up easily if not serviced properly, which leads to blowing smoke, excessive oil usage and even complete failure. Make sure they have full service history, avoid any with missed services.

          U think I could negotiate with the dealer for this black sportivo?

          Any of the listings will be negotiable.

          Some of the Altises you've listed will miss out on safety, early ones had just dual bags and ABS. Later models (mid 2007 onwards) got VSC standard. By memory, the facelift in the 40 series' life (2009) all the bags were made standard in Altise.

          •  

            @PinzVidz: Yeah haha but I'm seeing this in an hour

            https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2006-Toyota-Camry-S...

            Going down to test drive it, what u think of this?

            •  

              @Radical159: Nice looking car. See how it drives, check it over good, as before check for oil leaks front of engine, check dash to see if it's sticky/melting/glazing on top. Keep in mind this model doesn't have VSC (was introduced later on), but it does have all the bags, which is good.

              If it checks out okay, throw them an offer of say $6,500 - tell them you have the cash ready to go and drive away today. Avoid any finance/warranty/Ming Moll (aftermarket stuff like rustproofing, fabric protection etc.) sales tactics.

              •  

                @PinzVidz: Yeah so I went to see it, this dealer is a very small dealer the guy owns it his own company

                Went to test drive, the car was great except it stutters when braking so I asked him if he was gonna change the brake pads and rotors with new ones, he went to the shop and got new ones (I followed him) and he said he will change it tomorrow morning.

                For the oil leak I'm gonna check it tomorrow, and yeah he didn't offer me any sales tactics or etc haha

                •  

                  @Radical159: I guess an advantage of a small dealer not having finance people and Ming Molls in short skirts trying to extract every last penny out of you.

                  That's good you picked up on the shuddering brakes, warped rotors of course. Normally they'd get machined and new pads fitted, so even better if it's getting fresh rotors also. How was the dash?

                  •  

                    @PinzVidz: Hey man hahha, the dash was all good. And i got the car haha.

                    can i ask just a few stupid questions hahaha

                    So basically i filled it up full, drove around the neighborhood for awhile to get some stuff, fetched my friend to the city, and back. Heavy traffic both ways around 2 hours to and fro. Quarter tank was gone

                    When i filled it it up, the trip computer stated that the range was like i think 440kms. Thats too low right?
                    I filled it up with ULP91. should i not fill it up with that?

                    • +1 vote

                      @Radical159: The trip computer always shows an estimate (a conservative estimate). It will be a lower figure as the vehicle has been sitting in a car yard. Most car sales yards run all the vehicles for half an hour or so each week to keep everything going and the battery charged. With the vehicle stationary and idling, the range will drop quite substantially. It will take a while to adapt.

                      The best way to check your economy is to reset the trip meter after you fill the tank to full. When you next fill up, check how many litres you filled up with on the bowser against how many km travelled on the trip meter. 100/km x L to get your L/100km figure.

                      91RON will be fine.

        •  

          I would go for the aurions personally. More power, six speed auto, better/same fuel economy. Also cheaper generally for some reason.

  •  

    Btw, abit far fetched but does anyone live in the Clayton area or somewhere near where you have a trusted mechanic? Since I really have no knowledge whatsoever plus no mechanic that I'm close with

  •  

    If you go for a Liberty, check your engine oil frequently - Subaru boxer engines are great, but running them with low oil will kill them quick.

  •  

    6k, given the amount of flooded and dying vehicles out there, I assume you do not have a lot of money reserved for repairs, it is better to ask around friends and families who want to sell their old car, and in this case you won't get a lemon. and believe me given new cars on finance are cheap to afford there are lots of people willing to offload their old car which is perfectly fine.

  •  

    Not sure why the xr6 hate. My father has had falcons as long as I can remember. Since he 80s we’re mostly company cars, but in he last 15-20 have been personally owned to over 250k km. As much as I can remember they have been reliable and not caused any major issues. Typically it is the wear and tear of seats, hood lining, suspension etc that gets him to trade up. I also had 3 as cpmpany vehicles also, up to 160k kms with no issues and work mates had them too with little drama.

    If I was looking for a large sedan (I’m not) I would not be crossing the falcon (or commodore) off the lost for reliability. Ease of repair and parts availability is also pretty good for both.

  •  

    With that budget, you're better off going for their flagship hot hatch equivalents

    Ford Focus
    Toyota Corolla (This would be my pick) https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Toyota-Corolla-2009...
    Honda Civic (also good)

    etc etc

    Any second hand car will require maintenance, the best thing about toyota's (and other jap brands) is that they are:

    • built simple (mechanic labour = less), heck can even DIY
    • parts are plenty making them cheap

    in short- go for a corolla in that price range.

  •  

    Hi guys so I bought a camry, and went to the mechanic.

    This is what he told me

    Basically spark plugs were worn, probably that's why my engine cranks a little longer plus my fuel economy is kinda bad?

    Second is crank shaft seal oil leak so he says needs replacing

    Third would be power steering fluid dirty, transmission oil dirty as well

    How much u reckon are the average for each of the services?
    And are these very serious problems?

    Not that I don't want to search online but everywhere gives different prices.
    So I wanted to hear from you guys and compare the prices when I go bzck to him tomorrow

    •  

      Spark plugs u can DIY - search YT for instructional videos

      Crank Shaft Seal, i would recommend to do with a mechanic

      Power Steering and Trains Fluid - can DIY, but a bit tricker, but this i would leave to mechanic too.

      Pricing wise - hard to say, but shop around for a few prices. My guess would be around $600-$800 mark? The crank shaft is the main shaft that drives the engine.

      But don't fall into the mistake for going with the cheapest mechanic. There's a reason why they are the cheap…

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