What a Decent Price Haggle? Toyota Corolla

Hi,

I was looking at new cars with my parents, and we set our eyes on the new carolla ascent sport which on our nearest Toyota dealers website was currently from $26,661 drive away (white) $27,136 (other colours) I was wandering what is a acceptable amount to negotiate on the price? The saesman said they can do $26950 for a coloured car, but I heard you can negotiate more? Thanks in advance!

Edit: sorry, it was a honest mistake, the prices I listed before was for manual, the price of a white auto is $28228 and coloured auto is $28695 (2019 model)

Update: we went to another dealership we wanted the white auto, which was $28228, we got it for $26180, with car mats throw in (worth $175) , it’s 7 years warrenty and 5 year cap price servicing (175$ Once a year) and we got the perfect car plate!

Reasons we were looking at this car, it retains its value really well, cheaper servicing fee, apparently it’s the second safest car in aust, it has auto brake, auto hold, it is self driving to an extent ( you can take your hands and feet off the wheel and accelerator on the freeway and it will drive itself) and i found the wheel to be really nice and it it accelerated and brakes nicely (as opposed to the 2017-18 model) and other feature regarding technology (reverses camera/gps/Siri ect.)…thanks everyone for responding to this post :)

closed Comments

  • +1

    Update: we went to another dealership we wanted the white auto, which was $28228, we got it for $26180, with car mats throw in (worth $175) , it’s 7 years warrenty and 5 year cap price servicing (175$ Once a year)

    Well done OP, enjoy the car :)

  • Also consider a Kia Cerato, more features and longer warranty for only about $21K

  • +13

    Was that manual or cvt?

    I was wandering

    Hard to negotiate if you left the dealership

    Member Since
    1 hour 8 min ago

    Spackbace ghost account?

    • +5

      I'm guessing this is yet another post where a brand new user signs up, asks a question and never ever returns.
      Similar to this post where 20+ very thoughtful replies were made but user never logged in again:
      https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/431698

    • It’s an auto

      • Get a manual. You'll save money plus have more fun driving.

        • No for a number of reasons.

          1. more and more people do not have permission on their licence to drive manual
            -> less interest in re-sale
            -> if you want a family/friend, etc to drive it they might not be able to, which can be highly inconvenient.
          2. more effort
          • +1

            @Other:

            1. Yes/No. This only applies to Leaner and Provisional licence. Resale though, you're right. Especially on these non-enthusiast cars, manual is seen as a detriment.

            2. Definitely more effort. I don't see it more enjoyable on these cars as well when they're not really designed for road feel or handling.

            • @Szemen: 1 not in Queensland, if you're caught driving a manual on an auto license you can get fined.

          • @Other: No for finding fraction point during traffic jam

        • I'm a diehard stick shift driver, but honestly unless the person enjoys the engagement and fun of driving stick, there's very little reason to get a manual other than the marginal savings on the price. Which is, as pointed out, mostly offset by the lower price on resale.

        • I'd go for manuals. They are cheaper initially. Later down the track you can also save some money on maintaining that manual transmission as opposed to auto. I've not owned a Corolla, only driven rentals, maybe their auto gearbox is pretty durable.

          One thing I don't like about it though, is that Corolla shifter has a super long throw. It feels like a truck, though I've never driven a truck :P. I'd have to change that gear shifter upon buying.

    • +15

      Spackbace ghost account?

      As if I need to, jees gimme some credit!

      • +1

        How about some Chinese social credit?

        • Then he'd have to sell Geely cars…

  • +3

    You can always negotiate more. I negotiated a 40k RAV GXL to 33.5k. Your best bet is to find a high volume dealer whose business model is to sell a lot of cards and make money in servicing.

    • I negotiated a 40k RAV GXL to 33.5k.

      Yep congrats, Corolla and Camry have about $2,000 in them

      • You probably can get more if you haggle enough ad go back and forth between 2-3 dealers. But it takes time and effort.

        • +1

          You probably can get more if you haggle enough ad go back and forth between 2-3 dealers. But it takes time and effort.

          No, unless you lose out on stuff. 6 months rego instead of 12, demo instead of new car, etc. The car owes what it owes

          • +2

            @spackbace: Not always, some dealers will sell below cost towards the end of the month to make a quota that entitles them to substantial factory bonuses.

            Got my sister a Kia Cerato a few years back (just after the facelift in 2016) for an amazing price because the dealer was a car short of their quota. The minimal loss on that one car was more than made up for by their bonus.

        • +1

          Can second the haggling between multiple dealers in different regions. One came back to us with his 'best price' three times and each was lower than the last as they tried to outmatch the other. This took heaps of time and persistence and then once you've got the price low, that's when you say, 'ok I'll take it for $XXX and if you throw in the floor mats, xyz'. Get quotes from other dealers as well cause they all try to shark each other to make the sale. Make them work for your money!

          • @Jazza2400: You get floor mats with every new car, this isn't even a haggling point anymore.

            • @serpserpserp: Agreed, but for some cars (4wd) having the heavy duty rubber ones in all three rows (and cargo bay) compared to the carpeted ones makes a difference, and nobody wants to pay Toyota prices for that kind of stuff.

      • +1

        Spaceback, what does and MQ triton or BT50 have in them? (asking for a friend!) :)

        • Don't work for the brands, no idea

          • @spackbace: what does a 76 workmate and 76 gxl have in them?

            I'm thinking mid to high 50s for a 76 gxl with gold fleet pricing (ex. GST of course)?

          • @spackbace: no worries, didn't know if you were an all round sales or a specific marque/marques. are all manufacturers similar? do utes typically have high or low margins?

            • @seraphim2017:

              are all manufacturers similar?

              Nope

              do utes typically have high or low margins?

              Nope

              Manufacturers can set different RRPs, and then different sale/campaign prices from there

        • Im in the same boat, when are you buying?

          MQ tritons are going crazy cheap right now

          • @Happy501: mid-life crisis car! :) I like the shape of the MQ, and the BT, but would be happy with either. Mitsi will allow a 24 hours test drive, Mazda were arrogant and snobby, 'we don't need to provide a long test drive we sell lots of these' was their response when I asked how I'd know if the car would fit with my needs. So wouldn't buy from the local dealer anyway.

            Probably in the next month or two I hope, just waiting for the right deal to come along, I wouldn't call Tritons cheap, more decent value, but a lot of fruit for the money, and to achieve the "new' tritons extra ground clearance all Mitsi did was fit bigger stock rubber!

        • Hi there, I can only comment on the pre-facelift model, but if you time it right you can get REALLY good deals. We bought before the end of the year (around the 26th of december) and the price was dropped from 43k+onroads to 37,5. They dipped into their kickback from Mitsu just to sell it. If you time it right (Check out autoexpert.com.au's John Cadogan info on when to buy) you can get big discounts on the big volume cars as they want to get rid of as many as they can to make the brand look good in sales numbers.

          • @oodLes: Thanks for that, I might give it a go, tried to send you a PM on where/what you bought for extra info so I can go into the dealer forarmed.

            • @seraphim2017: Hey Seraphim.

              I hope the salesperson doesn't affect your decision! I am using mine for towing, if i wasn't I would certainly go the GLS 2018 model and put the savings into lift kit etc. Low point for GLS is around 32k. Im not sure its best for me to tow with though as many reviews says the front gets a bit floaty. Superselect is brilliant on the Triton.

              • @Happy501: Thanks. Yes it's more that I'm expecting to keep it a few years, and an after market Diff locker cancels out any savings in the GLS over the Exceed really, plus, warranty issues. I'll if anything be doing very sporadic towing, some light unsealed, possibly the odd off road, but not rock crawling (as least, not deliberately!).

                Where have you seen an auto Mitsi MQ GLS 2018 at $32k out of interest? (and whats the best you've seen/could expect an Exceed?)

                The sales person was a Mazda dealer not a Mitsi one, they were fairly helpful, which is why I bought the Mrs a Mitsi last year (that and the car ticked all the boxes we needed).

                It does boggle me, good guys doesn't demand this level of confidence pre-purchase of a fridge! and it's not like a dealer is the only place to buy one, dealers compete, I'd prefer a broker but they're useless, as it'd save the too and fro.

                • @seraphim2017: https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Mitsubishi-Triton-2…

                  This is the cheap gls

                  I reckon you could get the exceed for 38 before the end of the month. Here is a fake demo (the pre sell a dozen cars to buff numbers and call them demos) that is wanting 42. Surely you will be able to knock 10% off.

                  https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Mitsubishi-Triton-2…

                  reference the rear diff lock. I am certain you are better off getting after market. Any aftermarket rear diff lock is a lot better than the mitsi one. Wish it wasn't true but it just doesn't do as good a job that a lot of us remember rear diff lock being in the old days.

                  I only learnt today that the bt50 rear diff lock disables the traction control on the front two tyres. Sad as the ranger does not do this. Left the Ford Dealership today with an offer of a 19 model ranger for 43 (floor stock). Im making the decision on Monday.

                  Did you look at the isuzu?

    • +3

      high volume dealer whose business model is to sell a lot of cards

      I asked my local newsagent and they said they don't stock Toyota…

  • +2

    I would ring all dealers you can physically get to, and ask their best price over the phone. Say you will be in tommorow if accepted.
    Tell your local dealer the best price quote, and go to the other dealer if he wont match it.

    • We did this when buying a new car a couple of years ago and it sure beats wasting your weekend visiting dealer lots.

      If you can wait, do the call around on the last weekend of a month (something to do with monthly sales quotas/commissions) and if you can get to the dealership the same day, even better.

      Also, lock-in your full specs beforehand - we were non-negotiable on the colour and the successful dealership ended up offerring us the best price however we had a 2 week wait for the car as it wasn't available in the colour we wanted on the day.

      Good luck!

    • +6

      and ask their best price over the phone.

      Lol! Omg that's hilarious! You'd have to get the real newbie salesperson to agree to that, mainly due to the following:

      Tell your local dealer the best price quote

      • +1

        And that's a reason to buy elsewhere.

        • +7

          And what have they lost? Selling a car at cost? That's not exactly a threat lol

          You just admitted you'd take their price to the local dealer, so basically you've just wasted that salespersons time, which could be better spent with someone who's actually going to buy a car.

          • -1

            @spackbace: A phonecall can save both parties a lot of time. The dealers lowest price can be obtained and compared convenientely.

            The sales transaction require nothing complicated that can't be fully discussed over the phone prior to contract signing.

            Namely the goods specified by the customer, and the dealers lowest price.

            I guess salesman have a very different view to what is actually required to purchase a car. I suggest a computer would be much more useful to me.

            You aren't in the business are you?

            • +9

              @[Deactivated]:

              You aren't in the business are you?

              It's pretty well known around here that I am, I've never shyed from admitted it.


              You're missing the part where a salesperson doesn't get paid until they sell a car. All those salespeople crunching the price for you, only for you to take that price to another dealer.

              Is it that difficult to just keep all prices to yourself, and go back to the guy that actually crunched the best price? Instead you reward the idiot who didn't quote that hard, just because he's local?

              I'm guessing when asked "you're not going to tell others this price are you?" that you outright lie?

          • @spackbace: Yes, but if he doesn't match it, you will probably get the sale even if You're 50 kms away.

            • +5

              @[Deactivated]: Wow he puts in so much work by just matching someone else's price.

              Forget about rewarding the guy who actually gave you the best price

              • +1

                @spackbace: Final comment, and I wish you well.
                I would tend to buy at closest dealer, because it's a short drive to get to the dealer over the warrantee period. Eg 14kmm compared to 100km round trip.

                I haggle to win, but going to a distance dealer is never out of the question.

                The big point here is a one minute call to 12 dealers takes less than half hour.

                A trip to each of them will likely take over 12 hours. I want the best price for a specific product, and only the basic service is wanted.

                I'm cheap and don't like wasting time chatting. Just being honest.

                • +4

                  @[Deactivated]:

                  The big point here is a one minute call to 12 dealers takes less than half hour.

                  Quotes take considerable time.

                  Depending on the manufacturer, one dealership may have an extra $500 to $1000 bonus on select cars because they took far more cars than they normally sell. Sales people are not told about these bonuses because dealerships generally run at a loss unless they hit target and get all their bonuses. If you won't spend 15 minutes doing a proper quote with a sales person management will not attach these.

                  Other manufacturer's have special bonuses depending on your employer or a club membership. Most sales people do not know about these. Managers will fish this info out in conversation to get a deal over the line. Managers will not bother with you without your proven commitment.

                  To a competent sales person, you are the worlds easiest sale as you are just going to buy the POS beater that has repaired damage/warranty work at the dealership (the sales person wont know, the managers wont know, the GM might, the DP and accountant will, but you never meet them (before you whinge, about 1 in 10 new cars get damaged on the docks/in transit and are repaired before and without the dealerships knowledge, and many models have dock installations or warranty repairs to be done, ordered by the manufacturer)). The manager will just select the car with the highest bonuses, which will be the repaired POS.

                  You will also be promised fake prices attached to a non existent cars that will be sold just before you arrive to see it.

                  And you will be told to call back with your best price and that dealership will match it.

                  Assuming you convince all 12 you want to buy a car (you wont), you will now have 8 sales people calling you weekly until you have purchased, 2 daily and 1 or 2 will call you every half hour (unless they pick up a physical customer) because it works or it burns you (so their manager no longer makes them talk to you). The other 2-3 sales people couldn't be bothered because your too much effort to deal with. They will toy with you for fun.

                  I would tend to buy at closest dealer, because it's a short drive to get to the dealer over the warranty period. Eg 14kmm compared to 100km round trip.

                  You can service and get warranty repairs at your local dealer, however they may not give you the same level of service as the dealership you bought it from. Some will not give out loan cars for certain brands unless you bought from them. Mechanical protection plans often have little use unless you are keeping your car for a very long time or your dealership sells one of the really good ones.

                  I'm cheap and don't like wasting time chatting. Just being honest.

                  Search Carsales and buy the cheapest dealer demo over the phone with a credit card deposit, on your first call. It is very rare to get a better deal.

              • +2

                @spackbace: You make it sound like giving a price is really hard work! Is it?

                • @BestofOZB: Takes time to crunch prices, it's not just a simple read off a list. Even worse if a customer wants to add a bunch of accessories, both genuine and aftermarket, which then requires multiple calls and quotes to get the prices.

              • @spackbace: Work? lol, a 5 min phone call

            • @[Deactivated]: I dove 1500km to Brisbane last weekend to save $4000 new Toyota Corolla for my mum and dad Borth lost their cars in Townsville flood our local Toyota deal doing no deals it pays to shops around we save $10,000 dad Hilux.

          • +3

            @spackbace: Wasted. the. 'salespersons'. time.
            Hillarious !!
            If only every salesperson made a sale every single time they put in some effort.

      • To be fair, it can work sometimes. We agreed on a price last year when the Mrs wanted a new car, and we agreed the price after ringing around, paid a deposit, and only went in when the car arrived off the boat.

        We couldn't have achieved a better price in a dealership in person, and none of the brokers could get that price (or couldn't be bothered to try) so we were happy enough with that. Possibly an exception rather than a rule though. It worked out to 12.5% off.

        • +2

          Depends what type and model of car too. Theres a lot more fat in a Discovery 5 or XC90 than a Corolla.

      • Worked for my brother in law. Buying a new X-Trail and it was a veteran car dealer. Basically made an offer over the phone and said he was ready to buy. They did the usual dealer add ons, but he got the car that day.

    • +2

      Yeah, nah. My brother did that and wasted half a day on the phone. Dealers aren't stupid and know they won't have a chance to get the sale unless you come to them (or them to you). It ain't ebay or amazon. Cars are a major purchase and usually still require the human touch.

      I drove to 2 dealers and flashed $1000 cash deposit and got far better than his phone prices. Prices were within $200 bucks so I drove back to the first guy.

      • Interesting that Tesla is very popular and gives quotes and makes purchases possible on the internet.
        No salesman is really needed nowadays with the internet. Just someone to take a seat during a testdrive at most.

        Salesmen are part conman I find. I would prefer a robot or buy online like Tesla.

        Sorry but if they don't give me a phone quote when asked, they have zero chance of a sale or repeat sale.

        The salesman needs you, you can purchase the exact same item from any other dealer, or online.

        Suggest don't buy their cocky attitude. They aren't special people or they'ld have a profession at least.

        • +1

          Do you get to haggle when you buy online with Tesla or is it fixed priced ?

          Hardly the same.

          Also https://youtu.be/H8ro6kpKlw0 is pretty funny when he documented his online Tesla buying experience. Leave a lot to be desired for.

        • That's the beauty of it. You can easily buy your chosen car online without human interaction.

          Problem is, you'll never get the best price. Need to speak to a human for that.

          Their job is to sell. MANY industries are selling you stuff, the best ones you don't even notice.

  • -1

    Calling it by the correct name, Corolla (not Carolla), would help.

  • +1

    @SPAAAAAAAAKBAAAAAAACE!!!!! Quick, get in here!

    If @spack isn't having a relaxation day (and it's still like 2am in WA,) they might be able to help you.

    My local dealer has a Corolla Sport Hybrid demo for $25,990 sticker price for very low KM. So, based on that, I would say there has to be at least $1,500 to $2,000 if you're ready to bite the bullet on the day.

    But be ready for the "Oh but there isn't any stock" or the "it's in high demand" or "that's less than our buy price" antics to go on.

    • +6

      I would say there has to be at least $1,500 to $2,000

      Yup about right, that's all that's in a new Corolla at full freight

      But be ready for the "Oh but there isn't any stock" or the "it's in high demand" or "that's less than our buy price" antics to go on.

      Unlikely to to happen with someone prepared to buy a Corolla lol they're just not moving unfortunately, too expensive.

      • +1

        Yeah, I thought as much. My local dealer keeps ringing me once or twice a week to hash out a new deal. They definitely are aggressively chasing leads but just seem unwilling to budge from RRP. I keep tell them to ring me once they are close to my offer. They don't. In the 3 weeks of looking, they have come down $750.

  • -3

    I think you should take what the daler is offering you and tip him $50 for his trouble.

    • Is Kia's build and design quality anywhere as good as Toyota's these days? Genuine question.

      • +1

        Not sure as I haven't played with the latest Corolla.

        Cerato's used to be over engineered and built, but used older tech to keep prices down. For example, premium tyres made a significant difference to the last Cerato. Corolla's used to be very well optimised and came factory with decent tyres.

        The new Cerato is a different beast. Buttons are some of the nicest plastic buttons in the industry. The chassis is finally stiff as the Cerato uses excessive amounts of glue. Kia has gone the extra step with many components, like thicker windows to reduce noise. The cost is still low as the Cerato runs on a motor/gearbox combo which Kia licenced 14 years ago.

        Kia's 7 year warranty is a load of shit as it has a ton of exclusions, unlike say Ford's 5 year bumper to bumper warranty (surprisingly). However Kia's capped price services are full services, unlike almost every other brand's oil change 'service'. A Kia service includes a brake fluid change, a new cabin filter (when fitted), etc. Most other brands charge separate, at additional cost, to hid the cost of a full, manufacturer required service from potential customers and the media.

        Kia tends to have tooling issues (slight creases on the first cars in a model run, slight panel misalignment on later built cars), however I have noticed no issues with the new Cerato (might be the reason why a hire company had the first new Ceratos, more than a week before any dealership).

        Go look at both and make up your own mind.

      • When my ex & I split up in 2016 I recommended she buy a NEW Cerato hatch as it seemed the best buy for <$20k that she wanted to spend on a used car. She bought the $18k base model auto with the reverse camera upgrade and it's about the only thing she's ever thanked me for.

        It's seems like a well built car with a good basic level of tech.

    • +1

      Kia

      live a little

      Sorry if that's what you call living, then I hate to think what you'd do if you won the lotto.

      • +3

        Both are batshit boring.

        • +1

          The new corollas post 2012 are utter crap to be honest. You hop in and drive and you can honestly tell you're in the cheapest car on the market

          • @cille745: Yep. Toyota make such boring cars these days- new camry aside.

  • +12

    Don't call a salesmen and offer a price, they get this ALL the time.

    Sit down in front of them and offer 25k. When they say no be understanding, shake their hand and then go to another dealership and do the same thing. You will get a call back from any of them if they know you are ready to buy. Any dealer will happily take 25k, the financial quarter is two weeks away and car sales have dropped 15 percent from last year already.

    • +6

      Sit down in front of them and offer 25k.

      Spot on, thankyou!

      Except be prepared to put it in writing, much more reason for the dealer to do the deal, as you've shown commitment to buy.

      Let them go back n forth with your offer, taking it to management etc, but if it's reasonable they shouldn't let you leave.

      • +4

        This is exactly how it's done. Calling 12 dealers etc rarely gets you the best deal.

      • +3

        Or chuck $500 cash on the table. Or give them your credit card.

        Sales people fold like deck chairs at the first sign of commitment.

        • Yeah that works a treat for me. Haggle it down, when it won't budge any further, haggle more and drop $1000 cash on the table as a deposit.

        • I don't get why its so important to prove or show commitment? Aren't all customers that walk in the dealer shop committed already? If not, why are they there in the first place??

          • +2

            @Homr: Customer will walk in and ask for the best price, but by their own accounts won't buy even if you give them the world's best price, they still want to go shop around.

            This attitude gives no leverage towards your negotiations. If business can't be done, then negotiating is futile.

            It happens every day.

            • @spackbace: Fair enough. So if were to drop $5000 in cash on the table during negotiation, will it increase my chances on getting the best price???

              • +3

                @Homr: Put your offer in writing to the dealer at the time, that shows commitment. You're signing a contract to say that if the Manager agrees, then you have a deal and have a contract. That's leverage

                • +1

                  @spackbace: listen to this guy. It's been done this way for decades. Walk in with a fixed price in mind and stick to it. Put it on paper and sign and do not engage beyond that. Polite and firm and focus on price only (i.e no other sales fluff). This has worked for me 9/10 times after the usual back and forth trips to the sales manager's office by the salesperson. If you're uncomfortable 'haggling' use the old "My wife won't let me spend a cent more…she's the boss…" line (I used to work at a dealership in a different capacity) And yes timing is important - figure it out.

            • @spackbace: I'm personally wondering here why we need car salesmen. Tesla sets the way to convenience. Buy online. Only a tealady is needed to take us for a testdrive.

              All forms of salesmen may become obsolete faster than most occupations. I don't think they've serve a useful purpose considering the somewhat hard attitude they often have.

              Bring on the tealady salesman, and a downloadable pricelist and I'm more likely to buy.

              • @[Deactivated]: You could have that now if you'd like to pay the ticketed price. Would you like to pay advertised price? We're more than happy to do the deal for RRP.

                That's all that will happen. You'll pay manufacturer RRP's. Would you like that, or would you like a discount?

                • @spackbace: Taking the devils advocate, but if haggling at a dealership didn't exist, couldn't car manufacturers cut them out entirely and be able to offer a lower upfront price to the customer?

                  • @Levathian: Depends how they each want to set their model.

                    When you think about it, how many sales roles have commission? Even down to JB Hifi/Good Guys, there's commission involved in the sales roles.

                    A lot has to do with perception. Just have to look at any post on here about car sales and it's all the same. Yet in life, there's many jobs that involved commission and as such, negotiation. Some people just don't know what they can actually negotiate on (or are blind to it). As someone pointed out, even interest rates can be negotiated on.

                    People love to hate car salespeople, and love to have negotiating with them. Those same people then freely pay ticket price for servicing costs, or for finance rates, or for the clothes they buy.

  • The nEw corolla just came out and it is hard to get descent discount. If You can grt away with 26500….

  • +1

    3000 extra for the hybrid is a no brainer. Cheaper fuel cost and it will hold its value much better than the straight petrol ones. Take a look at car sales and see the difference in price for used Camrys, hybrid vs non.

    • -1

      1.8L weak

      • Petrol and electric. And Corolla has had a 1.8L for a while, this just happens to have an electric motor attached to it to give more power…

        • Exactly, so isn't it time to increase the power to say 2.0 or have a 2.5L model like the Mazdas??

          • +1

            @Homr: The petrol version is a 2.0L, the hybrid is a 1.8 hybrid. Again, bearing in mind that the hybrid has an additional electric motor!

            And the market demand isn't there for more power from a Corolla. It's about economy. Those that chase power from that sort of car are in the 1%. Why build a car to the 1%?

            • @spackbace: The hybrid is quoted as 73kw/140Nm. Is that just the petrol engine or does that include the electric motor?

              It seems really low even if the electric motor does give full torque from 0 rpm.

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