AMAs seem to be the cool thing to do lately, so thought I'd give it a try. Have been a mechanic for 15 odd years, worked on everything from Hyundai to Porsche. Recently moved to marine in the last year or so. Will try to answer when I can.
Edit - Wow this was much more popular than anticipated, thanks for the great response everyone, hopefully it's helped a few people out.
Even with being tuned, it is still underpowered, and I hate the transmission. The ridiculous 3000rpm stall speed of the converter is annoying, and the converter only locking up over 80kmh also annoys he heck out of me. Before this one I had a manual one, and apart from having to drive a manual, it was much better.
Also, a very small thing, but the climate control knobs not spinning, and instead having to be "tapped" or held to one side or the other to adjust the fan speed or temp is ridiculous. They did change this from 2010 or 2011 onward, unfortunately it is not swappable into the older ones.
Not so bad then! Im glad it wasn’t a ‘nothing but trouble with it’ hate. I find both have enough power for me, they aren’t race cars after all, they are trucks. I also prefer t he manual. The 2011 R51 is auto, 2007 D40 is manual. I don’t like how dark the instrument cluster is on the pathfinder and often switch the light on in the daytime so I can see it properly.
Your 2011 should have the 140kw engine which is far better than the early ones, and has no dpf, same as your early manual nav. They do have issues, and I purchased both of mine with blown head gaskets, they hate getting hot. Timing chains is another. I've done a bit of 3T or so towing and that's where the lack of power is really apparent. If you look after them, they are a decent rig.
I actually did a simple mod to my D21 widebody Terrano auto trans. I made so that when I press a momentary switch, it cuts power to the TCU (which causes the trans to stay in 3rd) and the other pole of the switch would lock the TC lockup clutch. So basically whenever you press this button, you get locked 3rd gear, which is the perfect gear for overtaking and climbing hills on the TD27 engine.
I also put a resistor in the TPS sensor line to the TCU so that it thought TPS was about 1/3rd of what it actually was. This forced it to upshift much more readily, which matched the TD27 torque much better.
Then i turned up the boost and fuel. You could line lock it in the dry it was awesome.
Before these mods it was a POS to drive. After the mods it was fantastic.
Unfortunately the D40/r51 trans has the TCU inside the gearbox, directly acting on the solenoids, so you can't bypass it and lock the converter :(
Funny how a few simple things can make a car much nicer overall.
I could never work it out… wtf does TDC and EFI stand for?
And E10, what’s your take and how outraged do you get about it?
Independent or dealer workshops?
TDC is top dead centre, the point in the crankshaft revolution that the piston is at its highest point. Efi is electronic fuel injection.
E10 is fairly pointless. You get slightly better detonation resistance so can run a little bit more ignition timing, but it has lower energy density do you use more of it. Can also phase seperate and cause a gunky rubbish in the tank.
Always indys.
My servicing schedule says replace fuel pump at 60k or 4 years whichever comes first.
I've never replaced a fuel pump in any car. Is it worth replacing it so early?
Have never seen a service schedule say to replace the fuel pump, more than likely it's just the fuel filter.
Should fuel filters be changed. Service manual said 80,000 and i’ve gone 145,000km. Fuel filter is in the tank!
They sure should. In tank fuel filter is very common nowadays, can generally get into it through a panel under the rear seats.
@brendanm - Yeah it's the fuel filter.
My old mechanic said it's not worth the hassle and just run branded fuel in the car, avoid independents.
Just wondering if it's worth replace fuel filters if I haven't noticed issues with it?
It is worth the hassle. Contaminants in fuel come from all sorts of servos, nothing to do with brand. There is a comment on here somewhere from another member who workedmin the industry, about the state of some of the tanks.
Just about to have Kia Sportage 12 month service, it's 3rd one at a total of 14,000 km, last time I had the cabin and air filters changed. Roughly 4000km / 12m later they want to change them again! at the upcoming service, as the cost is circa $70 - 80, I think this is not required due to very low use. I was told it needed to be done with a
"manufacturers service" … I suspect a blow off with an air line is actually all that will be done, and charge me for the replacement parts. I have no problem with oil/oil filter/fuel filter but pollen filters at 4000km is over the top?. Thanks for your insights.
@hasselbladsnapper I've had 2 Kia's - I buy activated charcoal filters from Amazon US for $30 delivered. I replace every 12 months, worth having the amazon ones in my opinion.
If you're not concerned then just buy it from super cheap etc it should cost under <20. It's super easy to replace.
Agree with this. All the “bullshit” items on my service schedules, I always tell them not to do them. I’m not paying $130 for an air filter I can get through work for $18.
Get the major things you need done, oil, filter, checks and the stuff you can’t do yourself, and all the easy things like cabin and air filters, buy your own.
Agree. If something goes wrong (e.g., transmission problem) can the manufacturer turn around and deny the warranty claim based on failure to follow dealership / stealership recommended (over) servicing? The link between cabin pollen filter and transmission problems might be minuscule, but maybe an engine problem and an engine air filter might be something they can argue. Even if you did replace it yourself, could they turn around and say that maybe it wasn’t installed correctly, etc. (even though it’s such a simple thing to replace).
@Worf: They would have to link it directly to the part. Failure of an engine won't happen due to a blocked air filter, only one that is missing or torn apart.
4000km is an insanely low amount of driving to be replacing air and cabin filters again, unless you are in the Sahara desert or on a mine site. I'd be politely declining.
Hey brenadanm,
Does VAG transmission fluid go out of date? It says it lasts for 4 years from manufacture on the bottle. I'm considering purchasing some 2016 bottles from a mate but my next DSG service isn't due till 2022/2023 probably (so if I was following the bottle, it'd be 2 or 3 years out of date by then). Do you think I should buy it as it's a tonne cheaper than the dealership or leave it? Cheers :)
I don't know the official answer, but as it's not hygroscopic I'd happily use it in my own car. I've only ever used fresh stuff, but can't imagine there is much in the way if anything in it that would degrade significantly over a couple of years.
Hi, I had .an airbag changed in a corolla due to the recall. A light in the gear shift stopped working after that. Brighton Toyota, who performed the replacement claimed that the failure got nothing to do with what they did, and offered a $400 headlight switch replacement. I suspect they disturbed the fuse. Any ideas?
They shouldn't have had to go near the shifter to do the airbag, but stranger things have happened. I would pop up the shifter surround and fist make sure it's plugged in. Unless none of yournpark light s are working, the headlight switch won't be the fix, more likely a globe.
Thank you, I can't imagine how the headlight switch could be responsible. Popping up the shifter surround requires some knowledge, its not that obvious how to. Possibly my mechanic, who doe the regular service would know.
Yeah it doesn't make sense to me. Definately ask your mechanic to pop it up and have a look next service.
@brendanm: Thanks a lot, brendanm. I thought I was being taken for a ride. It's not the first time they were trying to make a little profit at my expence. Hope my mechanic will be able to solve the mystery.
I have a Passat 206TSI wagon that always seems to need an oil top up between services. Service interval is 15,000 km. I've had one person at VW tell me this is normal for this car, but then last time I took it in for a top up the mechanic seemed to imply it should only have happened before the first service.
Is this something I should be worried about and/or have looked at under warranty? Car is serviced at VW and oil is topped up for free by VW.
Thanks!
Very common. Noone runs them in properly, as well as this, they use very low tension rings for economy purposes. How much does it use? VW's "acceptable" amount is something insane like 1L per 2000kms. My engine builder fixes them by giving them a home, putting in proper rings, and coating the pistons.
Thanks! Not too sure how much they top up, since I don't get charged for it. I think it's just a litre or so. I'll ask next time I go in. :)
my old b5 audi was similar at 4l between 10kish services. had a leak near the bottom of the block but timing chain had already been done and so labour was more expensive than leaving it for almost 100k km.
How reliable are Subaru used cars that are regularly serviced — e.g. Forester Thanks
What year, what engine? Only real issue was head gaskets leaking on non turbo ej25s. New FB engines can use oil.
After 2012 …Petrol engine… Not a particular car, but asking for consideration while buying a used car
Thanks
They are ok, better economy than the old EJ engines, but can use oil. Take it for a drive, I find them underpowered personally.
What are your thoughts on the FA motor on the 2015+ WRX?
I am familiar with the EJ20 & EJ25 wrx's and considering upgrading to the newer platform/engine.
I have no experience with the late model turbo Subarus sorry, have only worked on the non turbos. I'm a big fan of the turbo ejs, they are a very good engine when treated right.
FAs are pretty reliable if you service well and drive as recommended (no hard reving until the oil, not just the coolant, is warm). I'd get a OBD oil temp gauge/phone app and baby the car till up to 80c (ususally 15 mins into a drive). FAs do throw pistons through the block due to weak conrods, but only if your not following the above and driving like a mad man everyday. Also watch for oil leaks on the timing cover, common issue.
My GT3RS is due for a 36 month service. Should I stick with the dealership or go independent?
Got it with the money you saved on here? Dealer.
Do you recommend products such as an Air-oil separator or oil catch cans for direct-injection turbos?
Yes 100% for direct injection petrol and all turbo diesels. This, combined with the EGR, makes a horrible mess of the intake side.
I have a 2010 a3 with a 2lt turbo diesel. How do I know if I have this catch can or if it is properly installed?
The best effort by OEM is usually some kind of cyclonic/venturi separator that attempts to redirect oil back into the crank case. This is not a 'catch-can' in the usual meaning, it is a closed recirculating system. These are not perfect and some oil laden fumes make it past the seperator and the intake gets sludged up. An aftermarket 'catch can' replaces the closed circuit separator with a better filter that catches as much junk as possible in a dedicated container (the 'catch-can') which you then have to empty out periodically. In racing applications the left over air might be vented to the atmosphere but this is illegal for road cars.
@wannagrababargain: What he said basically. If your car is standard it just breathes in and burns the crankcase oil/air vapour. This is problem in direct injection petrol engines, as the valves get very hot, and this oil mix gets turned into hard carbon deposits on the back of them.
In turbo diesels the oil/air mixing with the EGR soot creates a horrible thick paste that lines the intake walls. I've seen some at nearly half their original diameter (2.5 litre tritons).
I have a 2015+ wrx which is a direct injection turbo compared to the EJ motors on the older models (wrx and sti). My issue is that I would like to install products such as an AOS/oil catch can along with EGR deletes which i've read provide engine longevity however I would void my warranty (from the engine mods and the ECU tune that is required after installation). Any thoughts as to what is the best way to approach this?
You can do these with a handheld tuner? If so, save your stock tune and swap it back, and remove catch can when taking it for service or warranty. They should be able to turn the EGR off in the tune, so you shouldn't have to block it.
Do mechanics ever have a problem car, they simply cannot diagnose?
Have you ever pulled an engine apart and realise you cant put it together again?
It really depends on how much the owner wants to spend. Intermittent problems can be very time consuming and expensive to track down, the cost of the repair may end up being worth more than car with older things. If you want to find the cause, it is always possible though.
No, even if you get something someone else has pulled apart you can get it together with a bit of common sense generally.
Saab's.
I bet it was Saab.
Source I own and try and maintain my own 03 9-3 convertible.
If you drive a modern car until your petrol tank is close to empty, can matter get into certain parts and have a negative impact?
That's a bit of a myth. All the crud in a tank will always settle to the bottom, but as soon as the car is moving, the fuel is sloshing and it's all mixed up in there. Running the fuel pump dry of fuel is definately bad for it though, they are cooled by the fuel running through them, so running dry overheats them and decreases their lifespan, or just kills them.
I spent a little time working for an MOC
The old steel tanks in Australia have mostly been replaced with double walled fibreglass tanks.
The old steel tanks where actually held together by the sludge at the bottom of the tank. Along comes E10 - and mobilised all the sediment sludge and caused a lot of leaks in the tanks.
I guess I will ask a question closer to home.
Recently went on a fishing trip with my mate who has a 4.7 m zodiac inflatable with an 25hp engine. (the engine was recently serviced)
The engine would idle fine initially (cold start) but after a little while, it would just stop. The engine would run fine if you put it into gear straight away and opened the throttle, however, if you opened the throttle too fast it would also die. Any idea what might be causing the issue?
Sounds very much like carbs. They tend to get water/junk sitting in them, especially in small boats like that as they often won't run a good primary fuel filter. Sounds like the idle jet/orifice is blocked.
Many thanks, I will let my mate know.
What to pay for a V6 petrol with a diagnosed head gasket problem?
What car, year, and engine?
jeep 2012 3.7 petrol,
Mechanic put the head sealing additive in, getting error codes related to catalytic converters, changed 4 o2 sensors @$900 also now the catalytic converters are to be changed @ $1500 -really up the creek not sure the best way to proceed- thanks
What makes them think that the cat converter codes are in any way related to a blown head gasket? Has it been overheated?
What was the exact code? There are different codes for O2 sensor faults, O2 sensor heater faults, and catalytic converter faults.
It's quite easy to see if a cat is working on not by looking at the O2 sensor waveforms on a scan tool. Pre cat O2 should be oscillating rich/lean, and post cat should be very gentle, much slower oscillation. If the post cat looks like the pre cat, the cat itself is stuffed. Not uncommon on late model cars.
I've done a fair few jeep 3.7 + 4.7 heads because of dropped valve seats, but never due to a blown head gasket.
Can you do my first logbook?
On your boat?
What's a 2nd hand hot hatch you would recommend that's reliable so it can be driven until it's old age. I'm still enjoying my MK6 VW GTI since 2011, but I'm not sure how much longer it will last before it starts to run into problems. I don't think I can ever go back to anything less than that.
All the euro hot hatches are similar reliability wise. I'd get a gti or S3. I had an S3 a few years ago and it was a fantastic car. I30n would be another to possibly consider, but there are probably no used ones, and I don't know much about them really. If your gti is going well, keep it serviced and it will be fine. Dsg services at least every 60k, probably sooner if you drive hard.
Went fishing on Tuesday. Half way to the spot my 5hp "Force" outboard stopped and white greyish smoke started streaming out of the cover. Looked very hot.
A mate said that the impeller probably gave up. Bought it new in 1994.
Fixable??
Sounds like it could be the voltage rectifier, is there a little box with wires coming out of it that looks melted?
Do you really need to service an auto transmission? or is that a scam?
Definately do, the scam is the "filled for life" transmissions. They are technically filled for life, it's just a very short life when you don't change the fluid.
How often to change the fluid on a 2013-2015 "filled for life transmission"?
Very informative AMA thanks!
What car? I always recommend every 40k, but anything is better than never doing it.
@brendanm: I can't believe i did not include the car on it. Its a camry.
Thanks for replying (I hope you reply this one).
Do you know anything about marine welding ?
Not really, do you mean underwater welding? All.i know about that is that the pay is fantastic.
I don't know either. One of my mates is looking to switch careers and marine welding was proposed - with no other details to it - other than the pay is fantastic. How is the work ? What are the prospects of job ? How hard/easy it is ? Who can be contacted for more info ?
Anything would help.
It takes a great toll on your health. If you don't mind that, go for it.
Sounds like every other job
Is there any truth to the rumour that prestige European cars (BMW, Merc) encounter expensive repairs at the post warranty stage (e.g. 5-7 years old)?
I've heard they can be a nightmare with all kinds of expensive electronic things going - but people are too proud to talk about it.
Thank you!
They sure can. Long service intervals, first owners generally lease so they don't care, second owners think they can buy a cheap "luxury" car, then can't afford the servicing. Some will go for ages, some will have very expensive issues. Lots to do with how it was looked after, but some are just rubbish, like the BMW 4 cylinder from 2003 or so to 2013ish, the non turbo one.
They tend to use a lot of plastic in the cooling systems, which goes brittle with age and heat cycles, and once one piece breaks, it's only a matter of time for the rest.
Thanks! So in short, to avoid a lemon:
Avoid specific models/years known for being crap +
ensure a good service history from the previous owner.
Thoughts on the Merc E400 2012-2015 ? Seems to be great buying however I'm concerned about $$$ issues.
Will be great to drive, but they do have a lot of bits and pieces, which means a lot of electrical things that could go wrong. I haven't had much to do with that specific car, but it's likely to be more reliable than the BMW equivalent.
When it comes to servicing something specific such as gearbox, AC etc, is it better to go to a shop that just does that specific task or is it better to go to a general servicing mechanic?
When it comes to general mechanics, I sometimes wonder if I get a mechanic who has never or rarely done the task and would result in someone who really doesn't know what they are doing or prone to make mistakes or damage things along the way.
Servicing a gearbox or doing a/c is relatively simple, provided they are qualified for a/c, which you have to be to be able to buy the gas. Rebuilding an auto trans is generally best left to people who don't all the time, but manual boxes are relatively easy.
Have you encountered the infamous Ford "Powershift" gearboxes? which was installed on every focus and fiestas from 2010 - 2014?
Yes, they are horrible even when not broken. Can't stand the things.
Ford powershit?
What do you think of fuel cleaners such as the below?
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/liqui-moly-fuel-system-c…
And do you think 98 is worth it on newer vehicles such as a Kia Cerato?
Snake oil.
It depends on the car, and how it's tuned. Generally a car that is recommended to have 91 may have a performance and economy gain going to 95, same as a car recommended for 95 going to 98. Generally if recommended for 91, 98 is a waste, as the ecu will not use enough ignition timing to take advantage of it.
Ok thanks, for a new car do you reccomend going to dealer or private?
A good Indy will do a better job. Some people will look more favourably on dealer servicing when it comes time to sell, though the amount you save on the servicing will offset this.
@brendanm: Final question, will they have the capability to reset the servicing counter? Seems it can only be done via scan tool.
Appreciate the AMA!
@apptrack: Any decent shop should have a scan tool that can do the job, you need them to work on everything nowadays.
I have a small car, a little red Yaris.
When it is stationary but just started up and until it gets rolling good and proper it makes a consistent squeaky noise. After getting up around 30km/h it goes away and doesn't come back till I start it from cold again.
Any ideas?
Possibly the alternator belt, they get old and dry and squeaky. Just to confirm, it does it while the car is stationary but running?
Correct, stationary but running. Goes away quickly after it starts rolling.'
What kind of cost would it be to replace the belt?
If you raise the rpm in neutral or park does the noise go away without actually driving? Belt is probably $30-40, half an hour labour would do it.
@brendanm: I have not tried revving it while stationary, I think it needs to actually be rolling to go away though. I will give it a try.
Should I warm up my car before I drive off?
Should I change oil every 5000km/6 months?
Is it ok to constantly leave the car running while not moving?
How often should I get the coolant changed?
Why do my brakes squeak after changing brakes?
Seriously though, what are the most annoying questions you get? Also do you hate when you get suggestions from customers after they've done their "research"?
You mention you have grown to hate your R51 pathfinder. Why is that? Thanks, R51 and D40 owner.