Philips Led 470lm Warm Es 2 pack
Philips Led 470lm Warm Bc 2 pack
Philips Led 806lm Warm Es 2 pack
Philips Led 806lm Warm Bc 2 pack
Philips Led 806lm Cool Es 2 pack
½ Price Philips 2pk LED Light Bulbs Warm ES $6.50 @ Woolworths
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nocure on 17/07/2019 - 19:46 woolworths.com.au (983 clicks)
Last edited 18/07/2019 - 00:01 by 1 other user
Last edited 18/07/2019 - 00:01 by 1 other user
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Almost down to the price they're worth, considering they die sooner than incandescent globes. (I bought two Philips from Bunnings - one as a spare - and both have died. Each one only lasted several months.)
I refused to pay the normal price, so I've been using a tall lamp, lifted up and sitting on my desk as my loungeroom light for weeks, waiting for another price reduction on these.
I get whatever is cheapest at Bunnings and have been using them for around 2 years now, and not even one has died…
What annoys me even more is I know how to fix them. They're designed so when one LED goes open circuit (usually due to a poor solder joint - not the LED itself burning out) the rest won't fire on. But getting them apart without breaking them is almost impossible, apparently.
Although THIS time I won't throw them out, so I can try and find a way to repair them when they die.
@GregMonarch: You might have a heat issue do the bulbs get any air or are they covered? The bulb dies when one LED goes out because the LED are joined in series if they where in parallel they would still run if one was burnt out. Its much easier to to join 50 LEDs in series equaling 150v and use a low amperage driver than the other way around.
To get them apart and reuse the same bulb you would need a heat gun to melt the old glue around the connecting joint. You can also buy LED kits you can make your self if you want to give it a crack.
@aussieprepper: Yeah, it's a glass cover on the oyster light with a female knurled nut that goes through a hole in the centre of the shade.
I'm aware of the rest you mentioned, have the electronics experience, tools, heat gun, etc. - but haven't seen the kits you mention. Got an example? (Where from/what do they contain?)
@GregMonarch: Then you'd be aware that the power supply is more efficient if they are in series.
It sounds like you got a poorly soldered batch.@GregMonarch: Missed this sorry! The kits are simple you can buy them on Ebay/Aliexpress they contain 5mm through hole LEDs and every thing needed to make the bulbs work. Not the best kits but its okay to give you an understanding plus you can switch out parts as needed. You can switch out to high CRI 5mm LEDs. Id stay away from surface mount soldering unless you know how to solder already. Its not as much fun.
As for these bulbs they are not meant to be used in enclosed fittings which is why your bulbs are dying. You need some fresh air hitting the bulbs to keep it cool.@aussieprepper: Thanks.
Actually, now that I've increased globe brightness, they would no longer fit inside the glass without dropping it 1-1.5cm lower than the 'base' it screws to. So now there's a large air gap between the glass and base. (I went with the second-highest wattage and it was physically larger. The highest wattage in this post was larger again. Lucky it was too bright, because a 2cm gap would have looked really stupid.)
These 1400lm Phillips' used to be 13 watts on the packaging now they're 14.
The 806lm used to be 8 watts now 9 watts. Even older ones used to be 7 watts.
inflation…
More like exaggeration… (or li-bation - drunk AND/OR liars).
The case of the bulbs looks quite cheap
leds are getting cheaper and cheaper…
Too bad all our fittings are sbc which hardly anyone stocks.
Are they dimmable?
No
1400lm no warm ES ?
how cool is the white ? uncomfortably too cool ?
I saw warm ones
Usually there's both in store.
I wouldn't get cool, unless you want your room looking like a hospital ward.
I managed to talk the real estate into replacing an old kitchen flouro with a modern LED - obviously cool white. I said to the electrician the light was too bright. He said bad luck - it's what I've already bought from Bunnings. When the Sun is streaming into the kitchen in the afternoon, the light is brighter than the sunlight. And at night it's bordering on painful.
On the other hand my loungeroom light is an oyster fitting with 2x globes mounted horizontally, which casts shadows around the room. I was using warm white there. But I figure the glass shade is frosted anyway. So I'm going to try cool white to try and raise the room out of the shadows.
Moral: Guessing based on others' homes doesn't always work. So maybe do what I plan to do - get each type, try them, and return the unused ones. (And keep a record somewhere which type I went with.)
Warm white and cool white have nothing to do with how bright the lights are. It's the colour temperature of the bulbs, basically cool white looks more blue, warm white looks more yellow. If you want a bright light get something with more output.
@Boioioioi: Exactly - you need to look at higher Lumens amount, not the colour temp. You can get very bright warm white for example but also low wattage cool white globes.
@placard: Ok, I bought a box of every type and tried each one twice, stepping up in wattage each time, starting with warm white. When the 6W currently in the lamp dies I'll be putting the new 11W in… and it turned out that 2x 11W were best for the lounge oyster light too - cool white in both cases.
I don't know how anyone can stand using warm white. It was just awful. Too much yellow tint all the way up to 1400. (Not just a slight off-bright yellowing, but HEAPS of yellow.) Maybe it's because the globes are horizontal in the light fitting, but glancing down at anything like a magazine or book would be irritating. The brightest 1400 in warm white was too much light, but at the same time felt like being on the water while fog horns are sounding. ;-D
@GregMonarch: Each to their own. I find cold white equally awful. It's so glary and cold - I have to shield my eyes from the light. It feels like I can't wind down with that colour temperature - wouldn't it be a higher amount of blue light and not healthy for going to sleep?
I prefer warm white in that it helps me adjust to sleep.
@placard: I know what you mean by glare… but the warm white was like a yellow mosquito globe or xmas tree light - far too yellow. What a pity they have nothing between the two.
@Boioioioi: Hm, ok. I assumed they were aligning them to the old 'clear' and 'frosted' globes. I'll have to get both types to compare then. (That is, if the boxes are not sealed somehow, meaning I can return them after trying each type.)
Usually stores have both warm and cool white in all wattages. I dislike cool white too. I find it glary and like I'm in an operating theatre. I find warm white more cosy and inviting for a house.
I need a couple of warm one for this winter.
Just a heads up these are really bright
I bought 1400lm and basically need sunglasses. I returned them.
I now have 806lumen and still they seem much brighter than I would have expected. It says equivalent to 50e but I’d say closer to 75w in the old incandescent brightness.
For bedrooms I probably should have gotten 470lm.
I got 806lm in our bathroom and they're even much brighter than the heat lamps, not very "warm" either compared with incandescent.
I agree no way I'd want 806lm in bedroomsWeird. Do you use the bulbs naked or with a cover? I've got a 1400lm Phillips in a low ceiling bedroom and its feels dim.
I agree. I like bright rooms, not peering around everywhere. Dining room I have 3x 1000 lumen globes, same with kitchen. Bathroom I have one 1000 lumen and one 800 lumen (mirror).
In one bedroom I have a 800 lumen globe and it could be brighter. If I want less light in a bedroom, I just use a bedside lamp instead.
Warm or cool though? See my longer comment several up /\ .
Tried most lights and find 3000k +-1k to be ideal. Some of that preference would be conditioning from growing up with incandescent bulbs.
Cool white is definitely harsher on the eyes in bedroom. The higher blue wavelenghts are more likely to disrupt melatonin and sleep patterns. I use them in the garage and workshops.
What does Es and Bc mean ?
ES = Edison Screw (as the name suggests, these have a screw thread on the base)
BC = Bayonet Cap (the type you push into the socket then turn slightly till they lock in place)
Bought these Philips 2pk LED Light Bulbs from Woolworths when they were half price half a year ago. Both are dead by now. No for me.
Yeah, same here - but what other choice is there… Mirabella (I think it is) are even worse.
I've found Osram's to be a much nicer colour and more reliable.
Almost down to the price of the old incandescent globes…