Buying Used Car process ~ $3000

Hi I'd like a second-hand car for dad after his had been written off.

Can you folks give me the low-down of what goes?

He's a Toyota man and I believe they are cheapest to maintain and overall reliable.

I don't know enough about cars and what traps to look out for. ETC.

Here are the filters:
Victoria

Toyota
Sedan/Wagon/Hatch (5 seater)
Automatic
$2500 budget

Colour anything but black.

Private seller or Dealer used?
Registered/insured?
Other?

I think this was good, but rego expires very soon, shouldn't rush it? https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dandenong/cars-vans-utes/toy…

Should I only filter for cars currently Registered/insured that way we can test drive?

Comments

  • +1

    Can't help in terms of finding a car but definitely read over this

  • +4

    $2,500-$3,000 could be luck of the draw for any brand.

    Do a ppsr

    • And only do the $3 government one, the ‘extra aeocial’ reports don’t add any real value and only use the govt info and what you can find on the internet.

      • $2 now 😉

  • +2

    Around 6 years ago I bought a manual 1999 Toyota Echo with ~140k km for $3k. No service book, current owner only had it a couple of years, but it seemed fine so I took it.
    Don't think I even looked at any other cars.
    It was pretty great, no issues.

    I don't know about other Toyota models, but mechanics have told me that the Echo is one of the most bulletproof cars around.
    Part of why I bought it so readily was that I had been borrowing some dude's Echo for a few months, which he hadn't taken to a mechanic or done any maintenance in 10 years. And it was also fine.

    • Cam chains FTW.
      Guide here, but best to double-check.

  • +1

    I don't know enough about cars and what traps to look out for. ETC.

    Print out a "used car checklist" from google. Most of it will be simple stuff like making sure the lights work, seatbelts aren't torn, but it's a good place to start when inspecting the vehicle.

    It's customary to open the hood, when you inspect a car, but honestly, there isn't much you can tell from that, except to see how clean it is and whether some parts look newer than others.

  • +5

    You won't likely find anything from a dealer at that price.

    At that price make sure you buy something that comes with a RWC certificate.

    You'll notice half the ads in that price range say "selling unregistered but only needs (insert trivial part costing $100) to get a RWC". Then you find out you purchased a death trap that needs a few grand to get roadworthy.

    I'd try and up your budget to $5k if you can. Will make a world of difference.

  • +5

    Avoid sellers that end their sentences with “brother.”

    For example “I never had a problem with this car, brother.”

    You know the ones I mean.

    • +9

      You know the ones I mean.

      "Yallah", "Habibi" and "Fully Sick" might also be in their vernacular.

    • +10

      Thanks for the tip brother.

      • +5

        No worries habibi. Hope you find a fully sick car!

        • Why did the lebo go to the hospital?

          A: Because he was fully sick

    • +8

      Oh my god ulleh, that is, like, so racist bro.

      • -3

        It’s not racist if it’s true.

        • +1

          It's not racist if the seller uses 'bruv' instead of 'brother', cos then they British and very proper about they way they sell used cars.

        • If it's not 100% true it's racist, i.e. biased. To put it another way, if someone swam through a school of frenzied feeding white pointer sharks and the sharks completely ignore them, it would be unfairly biased of them to ever refer to white pointer sharks as man killers because it wasn't true in their case (some may be 100% man friendly for all they know), and therefore unfair to refer to every white pointer as a man killer and to be feared. Ditto when referring to fellow brothers selling fully sick used cars as all being dodgy and out to make a 'killing'. The car could in fact be a bonafide 100% bargain.

          You know this makes sense.

    • +1

      Hulk Hogan takes care of his cars brother .

  • -2

    Wow. So let me get this straight: Mum gets a shiny brand new $40k SUV, really spared no expense.. and ol' daddy gets the shaft with a rusty $2k shitbox.
    Huh.
    I guess thats what you get when you don't make time for a game of catch with the boy.

    Well, first things first, what you should understand is that every second hand car needs work. Nobody sells a car in perfect working condition, there's always something thats been put off for a while. Could be worn set of tyres ($400), a leaky radiator ($300), bad battery ($120), worn brakes ($200), worn automatic ($700), or a worn engine seal ($1000). So whatever you decide your budget is, I'd set aside at least 20% of it for the inevitable repairs.

    • +2

      what the wack dogged out ur dad

    • +1

      Nobody sells a car in perfect working condition

      Plenty of people do, including myself. There are lots of reasons you would sell a car: change of circumstances (family), got company car, no longer need a vehicle, etc.
      As soon as you have a valid reason, you'll immediately sell the existing car in its current condition. While there might be some who are dodgy and looking to offload problem cars! I would assume they are in th minority

  • +1

    While looking/shopping online, and working out whether it is a good deal or not… I always use Redbook, input exact model, then I go to trade in value and find a car around the minimum 'trade value' (as listed on Redbook site) .
    It takes a lot of patience, but I have gotten all my vehicles at or below Redbook minimum average 'trade value' . Note, when you see that great deal on gumtree, get in quick because if it's that great a deal it likely won't last. Still do full checks etc so you don't get ripped off though of course.

    https://www.redbook.com.au/

  • +2

    Try get something with RWC and rego
    Don't specify toyota, theres plenty of other cheap stuff that is good
    100% don't buy a cheap used car from a dealer
    Don't expect it to be perfect.

    One issue with camrys etc, is that so many of them have had minimal maintenance on them. Check the oil level and try to gauge how bad it is (pop the oil filler cap and look into the engine, it should look oily but not gummy)

    Try drive a car from a cold start incase it makes any bad noises etc.

  • +1

    At that price bracket I would not be trying to find a Toyota. This is for the same reason that your dad wants one, they are reliable and they hold their value because the default setting for people looking for a used car is just get a toyota. There are plenty of other reliable cheap cars out there like Hyundais they are extremely underrated and you can get a very reliable little car for much better value than an older Toyota. For that price it would be hard to beat the Hyundai Getz, there is a reason most of the hire companies used them they are really reliable and cheap and easy to service (definitely not a sexy car but very functional).
    DO NOT GO TO A CAR DEALER you will pay over double what they bought it for at this range

  • +1

    At that budget, a dealer is probably not your best option. Unlikely to get anything. Gumtree, eBay, even auction. Make sure it has RWC so can keep it registered. Check tyres - make sure they are in good condition and match. If high km then ask why - if long trips e.g. to QLD then fine. Check engine bay for visible oil. If engine bay is spotless, be suspicious as might have been cleaned to remove signs of issues. Check oil and make sure clean. Check coolant and make sure clean. On starting, check for smoke. If the car engine is not when you see it, be suspicious. Ask for copies of service records. Find out when critical parts like timing belts/chains need replacing and find out when it was last done. Check body to make sure is straight…. On starting check for weird noises. Make sure all warning lights come on, then go off once car running. Take car for drive - make sure it drives in straight line, and stops also without pulling to one side.

    If you find any faults, don't rule out car but use to negotiate price based on cost to fix.

    Ideally, get a car person to come with you.

    Oh, and last step before handing over money to a private seller - check the title.

  • Go for something a bit pricier and lower k’s
    You will save money in the long run

    https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-cars-vans-utes/vic/carmake-toyo…

  • I just bought a 2004 BA XT Falcon basic model at $2800 a few months ago. My philosophy is: Make sure the big ticket items and unfixable items aren't broken (yet). Then look at the tolerable items even if they are damaged/out of order, be prepared to fix the fixable but not expensive items, particularly related to safety, eg., tyres, wind screen wipers, various belts and fluids, etc. I think my purchase has been ok, so far…

    • I sure hope you enjoy replacing suspension components

      • Ball joints, door lock actuators, window regulators and diff bushes are the main things really.
        But if they're all good, falcons are normally decently reliable

      • +1

        And stapling the roof lining

        • +1

          Just did. It took a whole 3 packs of staples. My wife thought it was a really nice piece of artwork, comparable to the Winchester sofa set…

          • @lovetodiscuss: Lol it's such a common issue! I love mentioning the roof lining when someone says they have a BA/BF

      • Not yet, but I can tolerate a lot of harsh drive as long as I know I only pay $2.8k. As long as it starts and goes, stops when apply the brake, I am happy as an ozbargainer…

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