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Meguiar's Ultimate Wash N Wax 1.42L $15 @ Repco


Just checked the Repco website. This popular deal is back. Price dropped from $31.99 down to $15.

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  • Would this be good for a foam cannon?

  • It does a good job but smell really bad.

  • +2 votes

    damn beat me to it. To answer #Owgasm's question if you have high enough pressure it's OK, but probably not as good as Gold Class or other dedicated foam wash.

  • can people recommend a good (cheap) windscreen cleaner?

    • use dish soap'

      No. It's not suitable for cars as it is far to harsh for rubbers. It will greatly reduce the life of rubbers.
      It is also not great for clearcoats
      You also can't rinse the film off with cold water. Kitchen sinks use hot water to assist with rinsing
      Use a product designed for the job. I don't use paint cleaners in my kitchen.
      Why not just use a alkaline shampoo like NV SNOW+ or just use your existing PH-balanced shampoo? You are claying anyway. The clay removes any existing wax anyway.
      Ultimate Wash & Wax also doesn't have wax in it. Just man made polymers which add a bit of gloss and protection between washes

      • Came to say that you're wrong and what Wilburre is saying is totally correct. Claying isn't going to be removing your wax properly, its just to remove anything stuck to the clearcoat.

        Not sure why everyone is downvoting him and upvoting you because what he said is pretty well known knowledge in car detailing

        • Claying isn't going to be removing your wax properly, its just to remove anything stuck to the clearcoat.

          Yes clay will remove wax and sealants. Waxes and sealants bond to the clearcoat. It is not a permanent or semi-permanent sio2 coating which requires more aggressive manners (sanding). Clay removes stuff embedded to the clearcoat that can't be removed from washing. How do you suggest this occurs if it can't even get to the clearcoat because it has a superficial layer of wax on it?

          • @4agte: I didn't say the clay won't remove wax, I said it isn't removing it properly. Wax isn't going to stay embedded in the clay, its just going to spread it around unevenly.

            I'll quote a post in discussion about LSP:

            "Does claying remove LSP?

            In theory, it shouldn't. If you read the patents about how detailing clay works (and it's part of the reason the patents were granted) it selectively abrades only above-surface contaminants while leaving the underlying paint surface unabraided."

            My point is that claying isn't a reliable way of making sure your surface paint is free of wax.

            Your choice of words was "You are claying anyway. The clay removes any existing wax anyway." which isn't true.

            • @alanw410: So many variables. How abrasive is the clay? How was the vehicle previously prepped? What type of LSP? You can't put different types of protection under the same banner. The durability can be from a day to months or years. You may not completely remove everything but I will remove everything by the time I polish. I clay first because it's more effective and extends the life of my expensive polishing pads

              My original response was using dishwashing liquid is a bad idea. pawan1993 elaborated on this very well. Somehow we have gotten to a point my advice is completely wrong. If you clay you should polish.

              • @4agte: Fair enough, I hadn't come across the test where pawan1993 linked. Its been so common where dish soap has been used to remove lsp. So I'll accept that I was wrong about my assumption that lsp should be removed with dish soap.

                I still wouldn't say clay is used to remove wax, you may argue that certain brands or types of clay are effective at removing wax, but it still isn't designed to be used that way.

                • @alanw410: Cheers. I have definitely taken what you have said onboard and learned something new about clay and its original patents. The day I stop learning will be the day I realise I've fallen behind.

                  • @4agte: This is what makes me love detailing as a hobby. There's always something new to learn and try from a full decon/polish to something as simple as a maintenance wash. I'm still tweaking my ONR washes and have realised how the right technique can completely replace a traditional wash.

                    • @pawan1993: Too right. I have learned so much from others. 10 years ago I would have insisted the 2 bucket wash was the only safe way to wash a car. Now days I know it's incorrect and sometimes an unnecessary chore

                      • @4agte: What is the alternative or better way to wash than the 2 bucket method?

                        • @sAmiZZle: Alternative is a rinseless wash like ONR. You won't believe how good it is until you actually try it. Only downside is you need a ton of microfibre cloths. I also have a compression sprayer for extra dirty cars.

                          Having said that, the two bucket method is still fantastic and probably the most straightforward method that won't leave swirls. Takes a bit more of trial and error to know what works with ONR for your car since each car is different.

                          • @pawan1993: Car wash noob here, I usually go to cheap arab places in western Sydney.

                            Keen to give it a go myself. ONR sounds good as I'm in an apartment and I'm also lazy. What else should I be using to get my paint optimal?

                            Should I clay before washing, and any recommendations on what I should apply after washing with ONR?


                            • @tren: Read up on ONR at r/autodetailing or even on the AutoGeek forums. Everyone does an ONR wash differently depending on what works for them and their car but the basics you'll need are 2 buckets with grit guards - one for tyre brushes and one for the rest of the car. I fill up the buckets about two thirds of the way (roughly 10L) and add some ONR to both based on the wash dilution. Use a wheel cleaner like Sonax to spray on your wheels and then scrub it with the tyre brush soaked in ONR. Then get about 10 microfibre towels and throw them into the wash bucket with ONR. When you pull them out then squeeze out some of the ONR so that the towel isn't dripping and fold it into quarters. You'll have 4 sides to work with with each MF towel. Take one side of a MF towel and start from the roof. Wipe the panel in straight lines once and then flip the towel so you don't have any cross contamination. Once you finish with the towel then set it aside and get a new one. Once you finish with the whole car then get a spray wax or sealant. Wet another towel in water and wring it out completely and spray some of the sealant/wax onto the towel and lightly wipe each panel dry in straight lines. The wax/sealant is used to lubricate the towel to reduce scratches and add a layer of protection.

                              The above is a good place to start but you'll keep reading, learning and figuring out when and where to add things to your regime e.g. a compression sprayer is great to pre-soak a car if it's extra dirty. Highly recommend using something called Merlin's Magic Elixir which is basically a forum user's mix of multiple Carpro products to form your own quick detailing spray which can replace the sealant/wax in the drying step. Also when it comes to claying and polishing, you don't want to do it if you don't have to. The less you touch the paint the better. Clear coats are getting thinner since paint processes are so efficient so you want to protect and maintain the paint rather than clay and correct it unless there are contaminants that need cleaning. But if you do clay, the process is wash (but don't dry), decon with Iron X/Tar X or similar, clay with either your wash soap/ONR or a quick detailer, rinse the car, dry then correct any marring left from the clay and finally protect with whatever product you want to use.

                              Also watch some of the Ammo NYC videos on YouTube. A lot of what he does is overkill for your own car but his videos are ridiculously informative for no cost and you can see his genuine passion.

        • The problem is with his/her recommendation of dish soap to remove LSP. You're causing damage to the rubber without removing any of your LSP.

    • There have been tons of discussions around using dish soap to strip wax and sealants from a car on detailing forums but there was a thread on AutoGeek where they tested the durability of wax/sealant on a built-for-purpose wash like Carpro Reset against a Dawn dish soap wash and they figured out that Dawn doesn't strip the surface bare but actually leaves a layer that feels like it's bare. Then when you apply a wax/sealant, it adheres to the layer that Dawn left behind rather than the clear coat so when that layer wears out you think that the sealant/wax has low durability when in actual fact, it's just the layer left by Dawn that has worn out.

      tl;dr don't use dish soap, use a good, neutral wash without any additives like Carpro Reset to strip existing wax/sealants.

  • This or gold class?

  • I just ran out of this stuff - thanks will be grabbing 2 more!

    I think it smells good (IMO).

    I have used the RED mcguirs one and this one is much better

  • Damn bought this on sale from SCA for $23 on weekend >.<

  • Careful with their website. Tried to order a bottle via click n collect, it charged me the $15 but then popped up an error message saying "Page not available" and haven't received a confirmation email.

  • NOTE: Don't use this on glass (windscreen and windows). It has a light wax residue that cakes on after a while and is hard to remove.

    • So when you're hosing this off and it runs down your windows / windscreen is that still ok?

    • Are you rinsing and drying the car off properly? I have never experience this issue with the polymers in this wash? The polymers in this wash are also not substantial or durable enough to build up over time. It simply won't layer and bond to itself.

    • Just get some Windex from supermarket and spray and wipe with one microfibre cloth, then dry off any residue with another microfibre cloth. Make sure you wipe the wiper blade as well.

      • Wouldn't recommend Windex as it contains ammonia which impacts the UV coating on windshields. Use something like Stoners Invisible Glass. Meguiar's have a good glass cleaner as well.

        • Thanks for the tip. Windex does recommend their ammonia-free version for windscreen.

    • Been using this for 12 months. Never experienced that issue.

  • Damm ! Picked this up from supercheapauto for 24$ on the weekend. Will see if I can return.

  • Anyone know how much supercheapauto will price beat it by? Their website - https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/customer-service/price-bea... doesn't give you much detail on %

  • Thanks OP. Got a few on C&C!

  • I'll stick to my sponge and soapy water

  • Thank you OP. Was about to order from SCA $20 on sale. Just ordered from Repco for $15.