Reviving an Old Car Battery

Hi All,

Having trawled Google and gone round and round, just hoping for some intelligent advice or assistance on old car batteries..

Sealed 'maintenance-free' car batteries last maybe 5 years these days, which isn't long. Unfortunately, I'm very inquisitive, and have an older battery that is the type with the 6 serviceable/removable plugs to top up the 6 wet cells to keep them at the right levels. Even though it only sits with a resting voltage of 9.5volts, I had hoped that this might be miraculously retrievable (yes I know - it won't be at that voltage - just buy another $150 battery and move on! Attempting the challenge though!), so I flushed it out and filled it with a mixture of epsom salts and demineralised water, to remove sulpation from the cells, so now I'll empty it out and put some new battery acid back in and start charging it with my pro intelligent battery charger, which is meant to be a total gun for this stuff. But I suspect not even my fancy charger can bring a 9.5v battery back from the dead, even with cleaned plates and new battery acid. So before I waste too much more time on this, just wondered if someone else out there already knew the answer? Lots of clever OzBargainers out there who know lots about tech stuff..!

Ps.. as it'll probably just be chucked, would appreciate any OzBargain sugg's on where to buy a replacement flooded/wet cell battery from in Brisbane (not the sealed maintenance-free type).

Thanks,
UniQualz

Comments

  • It will probably work ok for a while but I wouldn't rely too much on it.

  • +2

    A mechanic mate sent me this a few months ago;

    A brilliant young hippy genius (really,) i know introduced me to a terrific process for reclaiming tired batteries:

    Hook it to a load, like a 12V light, and run it stone, motherless flat. Then give it a touch more acid (not top-up with water,) to ensure the precipitates will dissolve. Then hook up a high-current charger the WRONG way - pos to neg etc - and charge the battery to full. (Might need to add a "normal" car battery to the circuit to buffer the load and stop the charger tripping.) Once fully charged, connect the load and run the battery stone flat again. Then charge at normal polarity and away you go.
    Done it to 2 of my cars and they're going strong after 7+ years.

    • +1

      Any idea how much current a medium (say 80AH) battery will draw when run flat and reverse charged?

      Or are you maxing out the charger and hoping it doesn't overheat/cut out?

      Not sure the buffering battery should be connected for long, it could overload the cables. How big would they need to be? If you push it below 12V it will begin to grow sulfation on its plates also.

      • Yes, good questions, @Urge.. was thinking the same.

        • +1

          Indeed. The law of diminishing returns means for every battery you part revive, another will be part worn, or a charger part burned… only a good test can tell!

    • Thanks @Mechz.. Incredible. As long as I don't blow my head off..

  • +1

    you are turning wine into water! Many ways to skin a cat. My NBN battery went beep so got a more affordable one than they recommend.
    Found of youtube a way to open the old one and yep it was dry but not because it was a bad battery. Idiots who designed the NBN backup box made the battery to sit vertical rather then the intended horizontal way it should be. A bit of membrane filtered water, a $2 charger and it it feels like born again. Makes a fun spark generator.
    Most cars could run on supercaps who would hold charge for about 14 days. Plenty of youtubes out there. $30 lipo packs can start dozens of cars but why go for the new if the old is cheaper?

    • +1

      Thanks Payless.. good points. Will youtube the supercaps - sounds amazing.

  • Have a look at your vehicles battery box. If you are able to install a larger battery, the I suggest steering clear of the smaller batteries and install a heavy duty.
    My Batteries were lasting 2y until I installed the larger battery… going on to 5 years now.

    • Larger means heavier, higher initial cost, more fuel consumption.

      There are many factors involved, some others are:

      • Infrequent use will push a small battery below its usable range, so sulfation will occur faster.
      • If your car lives in a garage, or is otherwise warmer overnight, temps will be higher and allow the battery to last longer.
      • If your car draws a lot of current (max wipers, fax, lighting, other accessories) a larger battery and your alternator needs to be larger to prevent the system running out of power on a rainy night.

      Best way to get good life is to ensure your alternator is healthy and charging properly at all speeds, and that your engine starts easily so it is not stressed as hard each time you drive it

    • Thanks OzHunterNSW, yes, I do always push the limit to what size and CCA rating I can squeeze in, which of course helps heaps. But they still seem rubbish compared to batteries from years ago. I just presume it's the standard 'planned obsolescence' designed into modern day batteries, just like everything else these days. Maybe not though..

  • +3

    in the old days we used to add a 1/2 t spoon of bi carb to each cell, after it stops fizzing top up water, seal (cap cells) overnight then un cap in morning, allow to vent then trickle charge 12 hrs. may work for you however if its down to nine volts probably 2 plates have buckled and for reliability get a new battery

    As you're on the Goldie ring Peter Goulding at big lttle batteries at Miami
    (2/43 Hillcrest Parade, Miami QLD 4220. Phone: 0414 777 662)
    Tell him Shannon referred you

    He has good traded batteries that are checked and 3 mths guarantee cheaper than going to a new one if you're selling the car etc

    • Thanks ShannonN.. yea.. at 9 volts, she doesn't look too good. Soon find out I guess.

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