[AMA] - I'm a Builder (Part 1)

TheBilly on 22/05/2020 - 22:01
Last edited 24/05/2020 - 21:50

Have had a few people contact me on Oz bargain asking for advice from a builder, so I thought there may be a need for some pro bono. So here goes, a conditional [AMA] to do with being a builder in Sydney.

The conditions are;

  • I will answer everything I can without giving up my personal details
  • Be patient and give me time to respond
  • Can only respond to items posted this weekend, if there is not a lot of interest I may continue
  • These are just my opinions
  • Sydney is very different to interstate cities

A bit of history;

  • I am a builder
  • Worked for 15 years
  • New south wales
  • Have built major projects all the way through to bathroom renovations
  • I'm not on the tools, I can be, but I just manage so I can build quicker
  • Not a building god and am still learning a lot about compliance (weak spot)
  • Construction is an extremely diverse industry
  • It is a difficult job but I love it

Edit: 9.51pm 24.05.20 - Hi All, thank you for your questions. I will probably take a temporary hiatus and only respond to questions posted this weekend as noted above. I have changed the title of this thread to (Part 1) because I intend to do a (Part 2) AMA as well. Hopefully in the coming couple of months. I would extend this (AMA) however I unfortunately have a very busy couple of weeks ahead and just like this weekend if I have a bit of a lul period after that I will do another AMA in a new thread.

Home & Garden

Comments

  • yjun355 on 26/05/2020 - 07:19

    A. How come something like escrow is not common in building industry?

    Don't you think that would solve most problem of everyday person hiring building to do a job. Most common complain is once they get job and you pay deposit, you need to keep chasing them.

    B. Is there review site for builders?

    C. What's equivalent of airtasker? Catch though if you have to pay 10% Commission to site for job, then they'd lot of money

    • Logical on 26/05/2020 - 11:29

      Have you seen the fees charged by escrow? This will be passed on to the customer at the end of the day. Would you pay the extra if it was noted on the invoice?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 17:45
      +1

      A. The issues surrounding payment and bad contractors not showing up for work is associated with small scale work and one off jobs - think something like a deck, carport, a few taps, a toilet, bathroom tiling. These types of contractors more often than not are not licenced or not well established. On the larger scale there is already a working system in place that ensures consumer protections (i.e. building a house, major renovation, commercial projects). In most of these instances you pay as you go for works that are already 'completed' or if you you pay deposits builders have to have an insurance policy in place that protects your deposit if they go missing. This may be a factor as to why escrow or PayPal or something has not kicked off. In very few instances do people operate outside of those established systems i.e. a really rich individual paying cash to build a house and a dodgy builder has taken advantage of this person.

      B. I'm not too sure unfortunately, you can check somebodies contractors licencing at the following link but this does not rank them. However a few considerations are if the name on the licence does not match the name of the company or person you are dealing with, they are already doing something illegal so what else do they do dodgy. Likewise a licenced contractor (I can only speak for builders) - like myself has personal liability. If I make mistakes I can put my property at risk and loose my personal assets - not always the case but more often than not a lot of contractors have liability.

      https://www.onegov.nsw.gov.au/publicregister/#/publicregiste…

      C. Sorry I'm not sure.

  • timmy_tam on 26/05/2020 - 11:49

    Question on plastering.

    my house is about 20 years old, Porter davie design with the big open floorplans and rooms. (so large spans of plaster panels)
    The ceiling plaster started to sag and cracks started appearing. was quoted to tear down and replace all the ceiling, but instead went with putting screws in to keep it up due to time, cost and not having anywhere to live while they did it.

    Plasterers all said it was a common theme in the area, with failing ceiling plaster.

    what are your thoughts and what are how common are issues with ceilings failing in your experience?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:12
      +1

      I don't believe a ceiling installed well should sag or fall, we glue and then screw ceilings to timber framing, likewise I did this in my own house and you cannot rip the plaster off if you tried, you have to smash it off and then scrape the remnants off the face of the stud. I have seen a ceiling sag once between the truss due to water ingress, but on that same note my exposure to remedial building is limited so I'm not surprised. Similarly the ceiling replacement should not take more than 3-4 days to rip down and replace with the right contractor. I have seen complete single and double storey houses plastered in 2 or 3 days with the right sub contractor.

      I can't comment on the house design as I'm not familiar with Porter Davie - can you link me? Truss and Stud spacing are usually standard though so one sheet should span over a number of fixing points depending on the sheet size, so I'm not 100% sure if the open plan design is the issue here.

    • moneyhungry on 28/05/2020 - 07:25

      Is it the ceiling below the roof or subfloor? Could be moisture issue and putting screws could only temporarily fix the problem.

  • tik tok on 26/05/2020 - 11:59
    -1

    If compliance is your weak spot, do you think you have done justice to your profession?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:16
      +1

      Yes, compliance is the realm of consultants (engineers, architects, certifiers etc). I believe you need a working knowledge in everything, which I have, but you hire a professional for their advice because, they are the professionals. My feeling of this being a weak spot is because sometimes you need to check / question your advice givers (consultants) because they are just as bad as dodgy tradesman. It is much easier for a consultant to hide behind negligent advice than it is for a tradesman to hide behind poor workmanship as you can see their poor workmanship in front of you, but advice can be misconstrued through interpretation of Australian standards, design calculations and software and shifting blame and responsibility. This is more so an issue in commercial construction than residential construction.

  • sy8718 on 26/05/2020 - 12:04

    What is the average cost for an extension? Just consider to extend my property. Does it cost much more than build a new one?

    • Logical on 26/05/2020 - 13:25

      $1000 per square meter. Yes.

      • sy8718 on 26/05/2020 - 16:04

        1000 is absolutely fine. Just when I google the cost, it gives me like 5000-8000 per square meters. It is more than 3 times of new build.

        • Logical on 26/05/2020 - 18:19

          Slab on ground extension? Timber floor extension eg pole house? Highset or lowset? Many variables. Level of quality eh high vs low spec. How many square meters?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:18

      Depends on location, type of extension, site conditions, $1,000 per m2 is extremely low if you are in Sydney. Likewise new home might be viable depending on how old your current home is - for example a 1960's fibro is a knockdown job.

  • Pizdets on 26/05/2020 - 12:33

    is a crack along the plaster wall a structural warranty claim?
    I know a new house has to settle, should they come and re plaster it?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:22

      I have not had a warranty claim so I don't know the process or exactly what is legitimate. But if it is a hair line crack, it is very cheap and easy to re plaster and hair line cracks are very common - they can even occur from the change in weather over a day (i.e. freezing morning, boiling hot day). It would take them 1 hour and the added hassle of a painter to come and repaint the patch and blend it in with the wall, or it could take you the same, depends on how much of a pain they are being about it and how hard you push. If your cracks are big enough for fingers to go through I would be seriously concerned and that is a warranty claim.

    • moneyhungry on 28/05/2020 - 07:11

      This depends on the thickness and shape of the crack. If they are jagged, are at 45 degree angles or look like a flight of stairs going up your wall this could mean serious structural issues. Cracks under 2mm in width are deemed minor and of no structural concern.

  • coolestwolf on 26/05/2020 - 13:38

    When building a new house, what are the best ways to save on cost without compromising quality? Are there certain features that are just too costly to build? I heard that windows are really expensive and can add to the cost significantly, but what are some other things that are not as obvious? Thanks!

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:27
      +4

      Nobody likes to hear this because every body wants the biggest house on the street, but the real cost saver is the size of house and number of bathrooms - most families of 4 do not need a 5 bedroom house with 3 bathrooms or a triple garage. But ultimately it is their choice.

      If somebody were to increase the size of some windows (just size) not type, this is not a very large factor in the overall build cost because you already make an allowance for windows and if you increase the window sizes that adds 4 metres squared total, this is not much. People feel it is because volume builders charge for every change. The only time windows will become costly is where you get designer windows requiring additional structural support or windows that have high end architectural sections, but for a standard residential grade window not much.

    • sakurashu on 27/05/2020 - 14:07
      +2

      Just having gone through selections with a major builder I can recommend a few areas to look at:
      * Wooden stairs upgrade (over ordinary carpeted) - not worth imo unless you're going for a high-end house/neighbourhood
      * Ducted Air-con (can set you back a lot ~13k for ducted in a 4,2.5,2 two-storey)
      * Caeserstone benchtops - worth it in my eyes for the kitchen and bathrooms but not worth it to upgrade to the fancier styles unless you're going for a high-end place
      * Extra-height ceilings - nice to have but not critical (I refer to 2550mm vs 2400mm)
      * Facade done - imo not necessary, pick a standard facade that you like. Hamptons are all the rage at the moment and are very nice but can set you back up to 20k
      * Tiling/Carpets - upgrading tiles to wood-look or the next range up doesn't cost much, but upgrading carpets can cost a pretty penny and is probably better done at a later date if you want something specific
      * Window flyscreens/security screens - can cost quite a bit, possibly worth looking into whether you want to get them done post-build
      * Lighting - don't skimp on adding a stair lighting point/the ground floor lighting points - can be much more costly/difficult to access after the build. Even if you don't put the lights you want in straight away, add in default bayonets

      Pay attention to some of the "upgrade" packages done throughout the year if you're going with a major builder, some of the core upgrades you can get for a cheap couple of grand in these packages. Also I'm in Queensland just FYI and am absolutely not an expert on building - took a chunk of advice from my parents who've done a few builds with other major builders also in Queensland

      • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 17:08

        Good advice !

  • Garbotoxin on 26/05/2020 - 13:54

    Great AMA - Thanks for all the replies Billy!

    Are you able to tell me anything about termite barriers that builders sort of integrate with the slab? I'm looking at wanting concreting done after construction handover around the perimeter of the property and there's a termite barrier that's already in place during construction.

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:36
      +1

      Many different types. The best treatment in my opinion, but most expensive are the chemical treatments that kill termites. They get injected in the soil (the name escapes me right now but I think its made by BASF) the termites touch it, take the poison back to nest and kill the nest. You have the other type that is injected in the ground but it just prevents them from coming closer, does not kill them.

      The barriers you see most modern house builders use are visual barriers, their intention is to block termites and force any attacking termites to come out of the ground outside of the brickwork so you can see their path of entry, as opposed to them sneaking into the gap between the base of your bricks and the concrete slab. Hence a regular inspection would identify that termites are making their way in as once they are out in the open which the barrier forces them to do they create mud paths you can easily identify.

      My recommendation would be to keep your concrete path at level with the base of the lowest brick, if your path slopes you will unfortunately have exposed concrete slab edge, likewise do not put any garden beds up against your house as termites will just go through the garden bed and into your weep holes (little rectangular holes put in the base of your brickwork for moisture etc) and you will never know.

      Don't take a chance with this, termites can ruin your life.

    • moneyhungry on 28/05/2020 - 06:52

      The physical plastic termite barrier you see around the concrete slab is a compulsory part of the building code and must be applicable to all homes that were built after 2001. Also make sure all pipes protruding out of the slab have protective termite plastic around them. This is important as the builder will need to provide a certificate from the contractor to his building surveyor in order to get the certificate of occupancy.

  • world2160 on 26/05/2020 - 14:19

    I am looking to build a second storey on top of my existing single storey brick veneer house. I've got lots of questions:
    1. Indicative cost for a 130sqm build with low-medium quality specifications. I know this is a difficult question, but an order of magnitude will be helpful. Under 300k?
    2. There will be a 25sqm void and a 25sqm balcony. Will these be cheaper than a normal 25sqm room?
    3. Approval process - who do we need to contact to draw DA/CDC plans? Structural engineers, drafters, builders…. etc. Basically which trades do i need to Google for and call?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:41

      Sorry cannot give a detailed price, there are way too many factors affecting extension costs. It is futile for me to set expectations because it can all mean nothing until your visit the house or review the scope. It is nothing more than a stab in the dark or a bad guess.

      1. Potentially around that
      2. Not drastically, there will be a cost difference but it will not be large in the scheme of the over all build
      3. I would recommend going to a design and construct builder that can manage your design, cost and expectation at the same time as opposed to an architect who will just draw plans for whatever you ask but not have as much consideration for budget. Once your plans are approved it is a hassle to resubmit and re approve. At least a builder can tell you you have stepped out of the budget before things go to the certifier or council.
      • world2160 on 27/05/2020 - 18:25

        Thanks.

        We want a bathroom and a large external balcony on the second storey which will most likely be within the boundaries of the existing house ceiling. What controls are in place to ensure that wet areas don't have leaking problems down the track? I can imagine it a painful task to fix if leaking occurs.

  • thisismyjunkie on 26/05/2020 - 14:23

    Hi @TheBilly,

    Thanks for taking the time to educate us all.

    I'm in the process of my development application. Just got concepts done by an architect and now at the stage of engaging my neighbours to mitigate some of the risks upfront. Next steps are to submit DA and engage builders.

    Just wondering what would be some tips when engaging builders to know whether if they're right for the job (as you mentioned earlier - interviewing the builders)? E.g. what should I be asking and looking for?
    My plan is to shortlist max 3 builders and do a tender.
    My current house is a semi-detached Californian bungalow with a shoddy back extension done circa early 90's. My plan is to knockdown the old extension, excavate deeper and build back up. The property is on a 30-40 degrees incline split over 3 levels with back lane access for garage.

    Thanks in advance.

    • Logical on 26/05/2020 - 18:33

      Get ready for your nightmares to begin. Is the Architect acting as principal consultant or are you coordinating the other consultants? Tendering the extension… Yep, good luck with. You need to develop a proper project plan to deliver this successfully.

      Why the need for DA?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 23:03

      The quality of your plans is going to come too light when you tender, if you have a big variance in your pricing it could mean that the architect has not put enough effort into preparing the correct information for builders to work from. I always recommend to go to a design and construct builder (yes I am biased) but what happens there is if you take ownership of the plans there is nothing stopping you from re tendering after approval to keep them honest and likewise they can keep budget in check throughout the design phase. Also the better quality your plans are, the higher your upfront price will be, but the more things will be included as opposed to surprises that you were not expecting later. At the end of the day nobody is going to work for free, if it wasn't allowed for or the plans were not clear, they will charge you for it.

      Just wondering what would be some tips when engaging builders to know whether if they're right for the job (as you mentioned earlier - interviewing the builders)? E.g. what should I be asking and looking for?

      I would be more focused on asking questions about your specific build to see how knowledgeable they are in relation to it from looking at plans. For example if everything is provisional you will be up for a lot of surprises afterwards. Asking questions about your project will automatically weed out the good ones from the bad and you will be able to tell. It's no different to going to a good doctor, if they are asking the right questions to give you the right outcome then you will know straight away.

      Likewise I think you might find it hard to manage the tender with 3 with all the back and forth, but once again the better the quality of documents the easier the tender is.

      This is generic, but ask questions like;

      What did you allow for on this wall?
      What tiles did you allow here?
      How are you going to construct this section?
      What is the process for this task?
      What if it rains at this stage how do you protect the work?
      How will you get material from here to there?

  • AustriaBargain on 26/05/2020 - 15:41
    +4

    did you used to build things with lego or clay as a kid?

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:44
      +4

      Yes surprisingly, Break things too, but I chose building over demolition

  • PropertyPig on 26/05/2020 - 21:38

    In the current climate, If the slab is laid now, what is your estimate of a 2 story 4 bedroom house going to take to be turnkey ready? We are building (With a project home builder) and the slab is down, and they have said 9 months, but it seems quite long considering what you’re saying with lots of people looking for work.

    • TheBilly on 26/05/2020 - 22:48

      Sometimes builders prefer to stick with trusted subcontractors, and build time can be affected by the subcontractors availability. It is not always a case of doing things in straight succession as soon as available to do so.

      However, admittedly 9 months is a very long time from slab (some apartment builders stand up a multi storey high rise in less time than that - good ones too not just the dodgy ones). What was your contract duration? the builder should have a set time in the contract from council approval to completion, maybe just give them a friendly reminder and make it their problem and not yours.

      • PropertyPig on 27/05/2020 - 08:31

        Contract says 9 months, which I’m fine with. Just wondering if I could get a builders insight into how long it might actually take and if they might finish in 6 instead, and the 9 months was just a huge buffer for them.

        • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 08:39

          Too many variables to call it. Wet weather, another virus outbreak, industrial relations, shortage of building materials, bankruptcy of subcontractors etc. As you said, accept the 9 months period and don't harass the builder. If it gets there earlier then bonus.

        • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 10:42

          Is this 9 months from approval or 9 months from slab? Just hold them to the duration they mention.

          • PropertyPig on 27/05/2020 - 12:25
            +1

            @TheBilly: 9 months from approval (happened early march). I'm letting them do their thing. If all goes well with weather and other things you mentioned, I hope we could be in around christmas.

    • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 08:21

      The only good thing that billy mentioned above is to refer to the contract, the rest is superfluous. All builders put float in their program duration for delay risk. In your case refer to what is noted in the contract as that is what you will get, unless all goes well and they can complete faster and handover earlier. If there is no time duration noted in your contract then you have a problem.

  • tik tok on 27/05/2020 - 09:51
    +1

    Why do you think Australian (brick/concrete) houses have so many cracks (including cornices) and cosmetic issues?
    We have been building houses for at least a hundred years - what should the builders be doing differently?

    Please dont sell me the drought and earth moving and all that shit - there are monuments in the world with similar env factors which have stood for hundreds of years without a crack. All houses I have stayed in Bali have no cracks at all.

    • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 10:54
      +1

      There are WAY too many factors and not a single answer, I feel the industry has a good balance of cost vs quality in residential. Sometimes its the builder, sometimes its the design, sometimes the products, sometimes subcontractors workmanship. Largely cost is a factor in all this. Would all Australians spend 50%-100% more on their house knowing it can stand for 100 years without a crack, it is possible to do but not affordable.

      Just some examples,

      • You can install concrete roof tiles, or you can install a slate roof it will last 100 years no problem
      • You can pier further and over engineer footings and add $50k to your cost
      • Concrete perimeter walls
      • Concrete columns
      • Extruded or dry pressed bricks

      Most government projects spend this money as their buildings are public use and designed for 50-100 year operational life and they have big budgets.

      • tik tok on 27/05/2020 - 11:39
        +1

        Surely if people in Bali can afford quality construction, Australians can ? But what do I know.
        Do you think cost is the only factor why almost none of the Australian houses have roof top sitting spaces/terrace ? Or is there something more obvious that I can't see ?

        • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 12:42
          +2

          Crap workmanship for starters is a cause. Under design is a second cause. 100mm slab for a house? 80 - 100mm slab for driveways? The labour cost is there already so why not make it 125mm slab by adding more concrete. Why only 25Mpa when for a few more $ you get 32Mpa. There are too many crooks out there, eg pretending they know building work when clearly they don't. The education levels of these people is horrific. Apprentices then learn all bad habits. They want a speedy job and get their cash fast to afford the best utes etc.

          • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 16:54
            +1

            @Logical: The issue with over allowance is your price becomes higher, when volume building this has a huge impact on competitiveness. If you can build houses correctly without the need to up spec everything from Australian and design standards, why do that, why not just build it correctly instead.

            Unless you are specifically contravening the standards,the correct installation methods along with meeting the design and Australian standards should be enough to ensure a good quality build.

            Crap workmanship is the overwhelming factor as you said. Most tradesman will have one qualified worker and a few labourers. When you build a house frame you will never have a crew of 4 carpenter's with 10 years experience, likewise when plastering it's the same, most of them have learnt a way to do it and just repeat it till they know enough to get by.

            Tradesman are a business just like builders and they find ways to be economical.

          • moneyhungry on 28/05/2020 - 06:27

            @Logical: Why stop at 32MPA? Richard P,and cheyrey (1995) achieved the maximum compressive strength 810 mpa in reactive powder concrete.

            • Logical on 28/05/2020 - 14:59

              @moneyhungry: the price difference between 25Mpa and 32Mpa is negligible but achieves higher strengths much earlier! 810Mpa is not available in Australia very readily!

        • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 12:56
          +2

          I have not been to Bali, but I'm assuming like most asian countries it is high walls, double brick, suspended slab and concrete columns construction. In South Asia labour is very cheap and this is a HUGE factor and this type of work needs alot of labour.

          Say you build a similar concrete structure double story house with double brick in fills and structural steel roof in Australia. The cost will blow out double or triple.

          Likewise I have been to other Asian countries (Thailand and Malaysia) and their workmanship is severely lacking in other areas. Namely in services like electrical, fire, mechanical, mositure control and safety.

          I still believe we have a good balance in quality vs cost in Australia. While some of our houses crack, it is not happening in every house. Being a builder, I do not see this every day.

          • tik tok on 27/05/2020 - 17:26

            @TheBilly: I am pretty sure most greek boys have "managed cheap labour" at least in a few cities - but am assuming that just translates to higher profits.

            What you mention about cracks is interesting. I have seen this in every.single.house I have either lived in or visited. Right from Northern Australia to Southern. But may be you just see newer houses so dont see it every day.

            • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 18:19

              @tik tok:

              But may be you just see newer houses so dont see it every day.

              Very possible !

  • mansonisdf on 27/05/2020 - 10:10

    What are some questions one needs to ask to determine whether a builder is good/trustworthy/reputable before deciding to work with them?

    • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 10:41

      Talk about your project - how it will be constructed, what the allowances are, what happens at certain stages of the job. Generally, speaking to them about your project will naturally display their knowledge or whether they talk just to fill the gap. This then mostly (not always) translates to somebody with knowledge and experience who will do a decent job.

      • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 13:02
        -1

        That's gibberish 'talk about your project' hahahaha. How about asking to view past projects and talking to recent clients?!

      • mansonisdf on 28/05/2020 - 15:33

        Thanks for that!

        • Logical on 29/05/2020 - 10:45

          Please explain to me how you talking to a builder will demonstrate how good/trusting/reputable they are? Unless you are in the construction industry and know exactly what you are talking about and what to look for then the conversation will go like this:
          You: Hi Builder. Let's talk about my project
          Builder: Hi. Sure, what would you like to know?
          You: Are you a good builder?
          Builder: Yes.
          You: Why?
          Builder: Because I build good projects.
          You: Ok, thanks. Are you trustworthy?
          Builder: Yes.
          You: Why?
          Builder: Because I take your money and build for you.
          You: Ok, thanks. Are you reputable?
          Builder: Yes.
          You: Why?
          Builder: Because I do good work.
          You. Ok, thanks. What allowances have you made?
          Builder: Whatever is on your drawings.
          You: Ok, thanks.

          The truth of the matter is that Builders will tell you what you want to hear, until you sign the dotted line and handover the cash.

          If you don't know much about Construction, talk to the builder's past clients as to how they performed, their quality of work, was the project delivered on time, where they on budget etc. This is the BEST way to understand if the builder is good at building.

  • iamtheroot on 27/05/2020 - 10:35

    Hi TheBilly

    I am currently building my home with a prominent builder ( in vic). It's currently on Lockup stage and the site supervisor is hesitant to give / address the faults I reported to him via a thrid-party inspection ( Frame and lockup stage , which he wasn't happy about). He is happy to go over the faults with me on phone but says cannot write anything back to me as it's not part of his job role ( this simply means they don't want to acknowledge the faults reported). I am not technical enough in the construction field so they can get away talking technical terms over the phone to me. I have stopped the payment for this stage until it's all resolved and addressed back via email / writing. I am building in Victoria. What are your thoughts on this ?

    • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 10:59

      What are some examples of the problems raised? Can you go above your supervisors head if needed and he doesn't answer, also have you recorded this in email and requested them to close out or is it all verbal at this stage, I'd send an email today.

      • iamtheroot on 27/05/2020 - 11:30

        Thanks for your time TheBilly

        Yes all the request send are in email and documented but he simply calls and say it's not major. Being a first time home build i am stressed due to these faults. Third party inspector says do not proceed until all addressed and fixed.

        Some example of the issue are:

        1) bath recess has been altered , now showing an exposed reinforcement bar https://ibb.co/BV8VqkL ( really concerned , should engage building surveyor ? )
        2) Concrete over pour https://ibb.co/RbxqFgK
        3) Articulations/ control joints have non compressive material ( mortar) https://ibb.co/ZTDjgMN
        4) broken pipes shows evidence the damage has transitioned down through the T-junction — https://ibb.co/cFLdJHp

        Similar ones and reported close to 40 items ( frame + lockup stage) and really stressed out not getting a proper response on these items.

        • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 11:57
          +3

          Go above his head and report up the line. Your inspector is advising you correctly.

          1) bath recess has been altered , now showing an exposed reinforcement bar https://ibb.co/BV8VqkL ( really concerned , should engage building surveyor?

          Nothing to do with surveyor, it looks like they put the pipe in wrong spot and re did this. They had to jackhammer out all the concrete and re do pipe. When repairing this they should remove all concrete, relocate pipe, reinstall termite barrier to pipe and the perimeter, reinstall reinforcement again by doweling into the side of the cutout, and then pour concrete again.

          The other items are nothing to loose sleep over but if they become really difficult you can make some concessions. Ultimately the situation is what it is and will require everyone to work together to move forward as the mistakes have been made now.

          2) Concrete over pour https://ibb.co/RbxqFgK

          Hammer or cut back / or hide in landscaping.

          3) Articulations/ control joints have non compressive material ( mortar) https://ibb.co/ZTDjgMN

          Rake out and put in able flex

          4) broken pipes shows evidence the damage has transitioned down through the T-junction — https://ibb.co/cFLdJHp

          Jet the pipes now rather than later

          • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 12:56
            -1

            @TheBilly: You are kidding me? 'report up the line' hahahaah

            • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 16:34
              +1

              @Logical: You would mediate with the people before you get legal. There is a method to deal with everything and this may very well be a stupid supervisor, not relaying information to his boss due to his clumsy supervision and mistakes. Going to the sales manager or his direct boss for assistance is not a stupid idea and more effective than your proposal.

              • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 17:54

                @TheBilly: Good luck with talking about it while the defects get covered up. This is not Woolies were you are returning spoilt food and want to see the manager. Going legal? Issuing the correct paperwork will save heartache down the line and that solid advice.

        • moneyhungry on 28/05/2020 - 06:09

          Wow, you are a builders worst nightmare. This is why large companies don't allow the owners to wonder around during the build. Would you rather the waste pipe be off center? Would you rather not enough concrete holding up the wall?

          • Logical on 29/05/2020 - 11:14

            @moneyhungry: Hey Jimmy. Billy is responding as the 'builder' covering himself and not responding with the clients best interest. My clients in the last few weeks include:

            1. Young family $450,000 house and land package. Driveway has bad cracks and will devalue the property. Builder says he will put some coloured mastic/silicone in the cracks and will be good as gold. The family's biggest investment and they come crying to you for help.

            2. Mid 50's family building $650,000 house. Walls are out of plumb up to 30mm! Plastering next week will cover it up. Builder says that no one will see the walls leaning over. They come to you with tears in their eyes. What do you do?

            3. Mid 40's family building big house. Brickwork finished however the mortar is various colours and not consistent. Builder says that no one will notice! What do you do?

            People should be accountable to deliver what they are obligated to, right? In most cases talking about it doesn't resolve it properly or at all and my clients still cry! It is their hard earned money.

            In the above example the reo in the shower is exposed, and most likely the reo next to it is probably just below the surface. This means it will corrode and expand lifting what ever is above it, and possibly cracking the slab. Should't that get fixed before the tilers get in there and cover it up?

            • TheBilly on 29/05/2020 - 12:02

              @Logical:

              Billy is responding as the 'builder' covering himself and not responding with the clients best interest. My clients in the last few weeks include:

              This is a standard HIA building contract in NSW below. A lot of people in NSW will be engaged on a similar contract.

              Unless otherwise stated in this contract, a notice given under this contract must be in writing and in English

              Notices may be given (a) personall (b) by sending it by prepaid post to the partys address shown in item 3or item 4 of schedule 1 or the address that is last notified in writing (c) by sending it by facsimile to the partys facsimile number shown in item (3) or item (4) of schedule 1 of the facsimile number that is last notified in writing or (d) by sedning it by email to the partys email address shown in item 3 or item 4 of schedule 1 or the email address that is last notified in writing

              Assuming OP is under a similar contract where do you feel the advice is negligent considering they have already provided written notice. After the written notice it is important to start mediating and getting answers or repairs completed, forcing the builder to actually fix things. Sending the notice and sitting back hoping it will be completed is just not effective and will be ignored.

              • Logical on 29/05/2020 - 17:07

                @TheBilly: Where does it say that they issued a Notice? I have read it 10 times and can't see it.

                • TheBilly on 29/05/2020 - 18:22

                  @Logical:

                  Yes all the request send are in email and documented but he simply calls and say it's not major. 

                  An email constitutes a notice in a dispute resolution process

                  • Logical on 29/05/2020 - 22:18

                    @TheBilly: Where does it say that they commenced the dispute resolution process?

    • [Deactivated] on 27/05/2020 - 12:55
      +2

      the site supervisor is hesitant to give / address the faults I reported to him via a thrid-party inspection ( Frame and lockup stage , which he wasn't happy about). He is happy to go over the faults with me on phone but says cannot write anything back to me as it's not part of his job role

      Then ask him who's job it is and to forward your email to that person.

      • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 12:58
        -1

        That's also not correct.

        • [Deactivated] on 27/05/2020 - 12:59
          +1

          It is not correct to ask someone who tells you it is not his job to answer your queries to ask them whose job it is and to forward your email to them? 🤨 The building world must be very different from the normal world.

          @iamroot, you should name and shame.

          • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 14:01
            -2

            @[Deactivated]: Refer to the contract for submitting a formal paper trial which will get you the proper action it deserves. In this case an email is not the answer, nor is talking to a guy on site who can not write!

            • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 16:39
              +4

              @Logical: I disagree, people in residential or commercial construction that rely heavily on the contract to resolve outcomes are inexperienced or insecure in their ability to handle the situation. Yes there is always a few situation that slip through that need to be taken contractual or legal, but overwhelmingly you can resolve or get the result you want by speaking to the correct people and mediating - in 15 years I have never been to court or adjudication and the wheels keep turning, even lawyers discourage it when you obtain advice, go to litigation courses and they say the same. Your approach is aggressive and half the issue with the construction industry in this day.

              An email is a sufficient written notice in potential dispute. The rest can be handled throuhh effective communication.

              What is wrong with picking up the phone, calling the office and saying you are no longer happy with your supervisor and want to speak to somebody with more decision making capability to resolve the problem.

              • Logical on 27/05/2020 - 18:33
                -2

                @TheBilly: In a perfect world the site supervisor, in this case, should have dealt with the issues. He didn't as he just wants to complete the work, cover it up, get paid and move on. You misunderstood. I didn't say to lodge a court claim, but to follow the contract provisions so that both parties know their obligations and action as required. As you stated clearly, your compliance is a weakness even with 15yrs experience. That says it all :-)

                • TheBilly on 28/05/2020 - 21:58
                  -1

                  @Logical: Everyone has room for improvement, to say I'm perfect without a weakness is just arrogant. I am learning everyday and I make mistakes, I have even learnt from other peoples posts in this thread as well and some people have given really good opinions. It doesn't mean I'm clueless about compliance, it just means it is an area I wish I was better at. Likewise compliance and contract administration are two different beasts - compliance I am referring to NCC, Performance Solutions, Fire Engineering, Section J, Structural Standards etc.

                  But I get what you are saying, submit the contract notice and then follow up. I just place more emphasis on the follow up than the contract notice. In this instance OP has already withheld payment so to send another contract notice to get the message across may or may not be helpful, but the supervisor is obviously stone walling so they need to go above his head and ASAP to somebody who will listen.

                  • Logical on 29/05/2020 - 11:19
                    +1

                    @TheBilly: Withholding payment is a breach of contract if the due process has not been followed. The builder may commence proceedings to terminate contract and seek all monies due.

                    • TheBilly on 29/05/2020 - 12:15
                      -1

                      @Logical: Yes but in most contracts the due process is to make a notice in writing to the individual outlined on the contract as the builders representative. More often than not, the project manager or director - "up the line". If a notice has been made and it is left unresolved by the party in breach there is a succession of events in the lead up to non payment, so a builder cannot just cancel the contract. It won't hold up if taken further to court for instance.

                      Another standard HIA contract extract below.

                      If a dispute arises then a party must give written notice to the other party setting out the matter in dispute. The builder and the owner must meet within 10 working days of the notice to attempt to resolve the dispute or to agree on methods of doing so.

          • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 16:40
            +2

            @[Deactivated]: What you are saying is normal and correct.

  • fox81 on 27/05/2020 - 14:37

    I know you touched on it earlier, but what is the typical range for a custom build in sydney that you complete, per sqm?
    And if i am going to someone that is design and build, should i be paying for any of the design element separately, or is that part of the total build cost?
    Is it realistic to build a typical custom 4 bed 2 bath 2 car 350sqm house for under $700k all in?

    • TheBilly on 27/05/2020 - 16:28
      -1

      I include design fees in the price if I am design and building, however Im not sure about others. Best to confirm this before contracting and getting an itemised summary of your quote. Be mindful though, design is a specific term. They will not include things like special council conditions, long service levies, bushfire reports, sydney water assessments. Alot of this stuff you can determine ahead of time before contracting but these are things outside a builders control.

      Build price and size you mentioned is healthy, there are site conditions that may affect this but If I were building on a flat clear block and no demolition, there is no problem bringing it under that budget along with including the high end finishes that are typical of modern homes - stone, 900 appliances, lights everywhere etc.

      • fox81 on 28/05/2020 - 10:09

        Thanks for the response.
        I am specifically considering a KDR. Aside from the once off demo cost, are there other factors in a KDR that impact the price?
        And at what point is the slope of a block going to be an impact on the design and build cost? Anything under 2m can just be cut and fill right?

        • TheBilly on 28/05/2020 - 22:24
          -1

          And at what point is the slope of a block going to be an impact on the design and build cost? Anything under 2m can just be cut and fill right?

          Councils generally outline the cut and fill limits, in my council it is 600mm but others can be different. Another thing to consider is any filled areas will require extra piering, you can compact the soil but compacting fill material is a pain in the XXX and piering is much easier and cheaper. Likewise some cut and fill designs will need retaining walls which not all blocks have in place already. So it is not always that simple, this is all relative to your block, what is good for you might not work for the next guy.

          A standard waffle pod house slab is 400mm in height if your block slopes in a direction by another 300mm that would mean you are constructing a drop edge beam of a total 700mm height. Hope the below image explains a bit more. That additional height adds cost - (concrete, reinforcement, labour, brickwork etc).

          https://images.app.goo.gl/M6ZtmJcVNRVFVwrP9

          Am specifically considering a KDR. Aside from the once off demo cost, are there other factors in a KDR that impact the price?

          • Slope
          • Soil Classification (best after demolition)
          • Salinity
          • Location - Acoustics, BAL
          • Special council conditions

          Most of these items a builder cannot fine tune up front so this is where most people get slogged and most volume builders will not do this due diligence for you without deposits or contracting. While your price may be competitive and better than the next builder, your builder may hit you harder with this negating any cost benefit.

  • DingoBilly on 27/05/2020 - 15:53

    Would you have any indication how much extra I should expect to pay for building a property in a more rural area?

    Specifically -> if I'm looking at somewhere about a 3 hour drive from main city areas (specifically, Grampians 3 hours out from Melbourne), would you think it's more along the lines of a 20% increase, 50%, 100% etc. I'd expect just for transporting materials/people?

    • TheBilly on 28/05/2020 - 22:36

      Sorry I can't answer accurately or be of more help, I'm not familiar with pricing in Victoria or regional Victoria. While rural will have a higher assumed cost, there is also the added benefit that you may find a small local builder with lower overheads and hence more competitive pricing. In my experience working in regional NSW, the local builders could always undercut because the local tradesmen who work in the area (there are usually not a lot of them) provide their local builder with more competitive pricing than 'the builder from outta town'. However you might need to work for this and get a couple of quotes because it can also work in reverse, where the local builder charges higher due to market power.

  • OhMaJuck on 28/05/2020 - 11:30
    +1

    What is your opinion on Middle Eastern builders and developers? would you buy a house or an apartment from them?

    • TheBilly on 28/05/2020 - 22:08
      +1

      To be a builder in Australia you have to be an Australian citizen or PR - yes there are a lot of builders with middle eastern heritage but I honestly believe it is just the individuals ethics at play. I have no issues with buying a house or apartment from somebody with middle eastern heritage, I have worked with middle eastern builders that have gone over and above on quality at their own expense.

      I do believe they severely lack in their PR because it appears every time the media confronts them and they open their mouth they make themselves look bad, but they really aren't that bad.

      There are 2-3 major apartment builders in Sydney that do the lowest quality work and they are not middle eastern, but there are some that are middle eastern. Just remember the best news story gets the attention.

      Likewise the builder and developer are two different things, sometimes they are one but not ofen. A developer is the money man that owns the land and pays a builder to build for them. A builder is a tier down and just puts it all together. Think for example; Stockland or CBRE are developers and they pay a builder like Multiplex to build for them. Another example is the Home Bush debacle I just decided to read up on, the developer was Ecove and the Builder was Icon - two separate organisations.

      Some builders are really successful financially and become developers later in life. Most builders aspire to become developers because they make the real money.

  • Bullion78 on 28/05/2020 - 12:45

    Apologies if the question has been previously asked. But can you give some detail, maybe an approximate breakdown of why it costs over double to build a house today than what it did 14 years ago. It just astounds me..

    • TheBilly on 28/05/2020 - 22:44

      Good question but I can't tell you exactly why or break this down. There has not been double or triple increase in the cost of materials supply so it is a little perplexing to me too. I personally feel a big factor is supply and demand and economic growth. We have had insane levels of economic growth in the last decade - with that came a construction boom which naturally drive up the demand and prices for skilled labour. Even as a builder in my entire career I have never met a tradesman desperate for work until November - December last year when things started to turn - only then did the phone calls start rolling in, usually it is the other way around. So that could be one reason, mainly the cost of labour and a part increase in material supply.

    • r3volt on 28/05/2020 - 22:46

      Why does a happy meal cost twice what it did 14 years ago?

  • mrhorseham on 28/05/2020 - 15:06

    Hi Billy,

    I'm wondering about how much design of the exterior affects the cost, e.g. roof design. For example, is an A-frame house cheaper to build as the roof is effectively the walls? How about a barn style, high walls, pitched roof? or a single slanted roof design?

    Does the roof design in terms of those examples affect the overall price? assuming they are equal sqm in size. Which is easier/simplier to build?

    Thanks!

  • HeyHeyHeyIsItADeal on 28/05/2020 - 18:04

    Whats the most stupidest thing someone has asked you to do or said to you?

  • Megatron on 28/05/2020 - 22:17

    Hey Billy,

    Appreciate you answering all these questions. Can't tell you enough how helpful this info is.

    We are in the process of doing and extension/renovation works at our property under a $153.5k contract with a builder. The builder had excluded the Indemnity insurance and it was for us to pay at cost. He had given us an estimate of $900-$1000 however the actual quote from Master Builders Association South Aus is $1635. When I asked the builder, his only response is he made an error in calculations and we have no choice. I am thinking I might ask him to get another quote from QBE.. do you think this is reasonable? Anything you can suggest?

    • TheBilly on 29/05/2020 - 20:09

      If it's a variation you can choose to go ahead with it or not. However I don't think there is any recourse for you if he misquoted something that he never included in his price unfortunately. Ask for another quote and also do a ring around yourself, because it's a variation.

  • r3volt on 28/05/2020 - 22:45

    How long is a piece of string?

    • TheBilly on 28/05/2020 - 22:47

      Twice as long as half its length lol

  • Haggis Hurler on 29/05/2020 - 08:53

    Billy, thank you for sharing your experiences and answering so many questions! Great insights.

    My poor house is in need of some structural repair following termite damage (~30% of bottom level ceiling beams eaten away). Also some roof repairs to prevent water leaking into the house in future. It's a bushland sloping site with a 1980s a-frame house (steel roof) on slab.

    Each builder that's come to quote has had a totally different methodology and price range. eg …
    1) replacing all beams with hardwood/cyprus by removing the roof and sliding them in. Also ripping up and replacing the top level floorboards above the rotten beams. Also means the kitchen has to go. $20-30k+
    vs.
    2) patchwork repair of ceiling beams with H2/H3 treated pine and no need for ripping up floorboards above ($5k)

    Either way, would you recommend engaging each tradie directly (eg carpenter, roofer, etc.. kind of project managing myself) or leave it with the builder to manage best? Obviously looking to save money. I'm northern Sydney based and desperate to find someone I can trust!

    Cheers
    HH

    • TheBilly on 29/05/2020 - 20:14

      Builder, because structural works over $20k in value need warranty insurance. Naturally you will pay for this via a higher price but your rectification work will have a warranty. You may be able to project manage and do an owner builder permit - I don't know if it gets the same type of coverage or not. However splitting it without warranty would mean if re work is required the blame will just be shifted from one too the other.

      Are the termites still active?

      Link

      https://www.icare.nsw.gov.au/government-agencies/our-funds-a…

      • Haggis Hurler on 29/05/2020 - 23:49

        Good points. I didn't even consider the insurance - thanks!

        Termites are no longer active. Baiting system in place.

        It's my first home and only bought it last year. The building and pest inspection isn't worth the paper it's written on.

        • TheBilly on 30/05/2020 - 06:39
          +1

          Good points. I didn't even consider the insurance - thanks!

          You will pay more and find it more difficult for somebody to do you job because the builders insurance (particularly) for small builders is guaranteed by personal assets and liability, but you have cover otherwise you may pay half the cost, but have no cover or warranty - just weigh it all up and see what is best for you.

          Baiting system in place.

          Just curious for myself and others, what baiting system did you use?

          The building and pest inspection isn't worth the paper it's written on.

          Did the pest inspection pick up on this activity or damage to the framing? What would you do differently?

          • Haggis Hurler on 01/06/2020 - 15:26

            @TheBilly: Thank you for the advice mate.

            We have the in-ground termite bait stations outdoors surrounding the property. Installed by a pest guy. I think it's something I can do myself in future to maintain them and save money.

            I do think it's hard for the pest and building inspectors to assess a property properly as you can't really tell anything unless you open up walls and ceilings. They didn't pick up anything apart from "some areas of minor non-structural damage (non-active)".

            Would you recommend using hardwood or H2/3 pine joists? I'm leaning towards replacing the floorboards on top of them… going to be a big job unfortunately. But I want it to last + done properly.
            One of the builders proposed cutting the new joists to fit as needed to slot them in on the bearers from underneath. Others proposed lifting the floorboards with a jack / ripping off the roof to slide them in. Still confused about this.

  • Garbotoxin on 01/06/2020 - 12:11

    Hi Billy, when a builder lists the cost to build a house (eg. $230k to build excl land) - to your experience how much of a profit do they actually make?

  • boku on 01/06/2020 - 18:44

    Hi mate, I've removed two doors which existed in an opening between the lounge and hallway. There was an existing timber doorjamb as shown in the photos, which I also removed. However, I discovered there is no lintel in place across the horizontal length of the opening, and is just bricks - is this normal for something in a 40 year old apartment? I suspected there may be a lintel somewhere above the opening, but am not sure. My question is, is it safe for me to remove this doorjamb?

    Photos of before removal: https://imgur.com/a/W9oOP2T
    Photos of after removal: https://imgur.com/a/0BcjqW9

    Cheers

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