Anyone out There Who Can Troubleshoot TV Picture Problem?

Ive tried all the solutions I can find online, it made things worse.

Got a Samsung TV Series 5, 32 inch (Model LA32A550P1F). Its old, deffo 10+ years but the old dog has served us well. Covid19 income affected household so buying a new TV isn't an option.

About 18 months ago dark colours displayed as green, we dusted the HDMI port and it fixed the problem.
Then about 9 months ago the same thing happened, couldnt fix it but left the TV on for about 4 hours and it gradually came good.

Switched it on yesterday after no use for 4 days, green haze on all dark colours. It gradually got better and for 3 brief periods went normal before getting worse again.

No difference changing HDMI port or input source, same picture.

Picture view is on standard. We reset all picture settings, it made all the colours worse, green and pink haze over everything.

That lasted 10-15 mins then picture went almost completely black, sound OK.

The only way you can tell the TV is on by looking at the screen is a dark grey tinge around the perimeter of a black screen.

My next move is unscrewing the back of the TV. Ive read it can be a loose cable connection.

The only thing is we are totally clueless about stuff like this.

What do yoos reckon?

Im sitting here with a screwdriver in my hand waiting for approval.

Comments

  • Try a different HDMI cable. Unless you know what you are doing, the screwdriver should be put aside for the moment.

  • Are you able to watch free to air via the old wall antenna coax outlet?

    • The problem with that is, I cant see the options for changing the source to select TV from the coax cable because the TV just has a black screen now.

  • Try hitting the back of the tv

  • Have you tried turning it off and on again?

  • If you're technically handy … often it's a faulty capacitor that causes these problems. If you're lucky you can try visually scanning the PCB for bulging / leaking / toasted capacitors and try soldering a replacement.

    • I have no idea what that means but I’m thinking you mean take the back off

      • If you don't know what that means then please don't open the back of the TV and start touching things with a screwdriver…

  • Let the TV rest in peace. 10 years old if used daily is a good life for a Samsung. At work we had Samsung TVs bought 11 years ago and last year they all died within days of each other.

  • Well, whenever something breaks I always start by asking: what would it cost to buy a replacement?
    In this case, a 32" TV can be had for $200 brand new. Second hand, it can be got for >$40. To me that means if you can't fix it with a bang to the side, it's not worth continuing.

    But money isn't everything, and some things you do just for the challenge.

    TV's are generally made up of several circuits, each one distinct or semi-distinct, and responsible for a different task. Like how a desktop computer isn't just one big blob, but composed of hard drives, disk drives, graphics card etc. All seperate sub-systems working together to produce a larger system.

    First thing here to determine, is the problem with
    a) The subsystem responsible for managing video and audio inputs
    or
    b) the display system responsible for backlight and color reproduction

    First place to start would be trying different inputs with a known good video source. HDMI, Composite, Component, TV etc. If none of them are working, that suggests that (a) is the culprit.
    Second thing I'd do is to check the menu. Things like the menu should be separate from (a), and if you press menu on the controller should still come up even if the screen is black. If the menu isn't coming up, that suggests that it's probably (b) thats the problem.

    • OK thanks, initially we tried different inputs from different sources and none of them made any difference to the picture. Then when the screen went black, the menu display stopped working. It was obviously working before, thats what allowed us to select the different sources.
      I guess that means the subsystem failed then the display system failed.
      I might as well take the back off and have a look before I chuck it.

      • If the menu isn't working, then yeah display is probably not the culprit.

        Go ahead and open it up. Unplug it and leave it for half an hour to let the capacitors discharge, otherwise you might get zapped.
        First thing to look for inside are bulging caps
        They are the weakest component inside electronics and first to fail. It's not easy to replace them, and even when you do replace them often several other things have been damaged by their failure, but for a regular person its your best shot.

      • Next thing to try if the caps look fine is to go with your original plan,

        Ive read it can be a loose cable connection.

        Using extreme caution (because the little clips everything is plugged into break like dry pasta), unhook each cable, and with a bit of metho on a tissue just run it over the ends a few times. It's a long shot that it will work, but sometimes there's corrosion on the connector, and with repeated heat/cool cycles the material expands and contracts just enough to break the connection. Given your scenerio with the gradual decline, it's a possibility and an easy fix.

        • Thanks for your help. Ive got nothing to lose, I'll give it a go cleaning with metho. Shaiguy sent me a youtube link which shows exactly what you suggest.

  • FB marketplace, you should be able to get something second hand to get by for very cheap.

  • You watched this video? I think they may even refer to your TV:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWIWeESmXC0

  • Is there a physical switch, can you try a full restart? Essentially:
    1. Switch off TV, unplug from powerpoint
    2. While unplugged turn the switch on, on the tv (physical switch) and leave on for 1 minute
    3. While unplugged hit all the physical buttons on the TV (vol/contrast/on off) for 5 seconds. if there is no physical switch, just leave the tv off for 2 minutes.
    4. Plug back in once its been off for a few minutes and see if theres any difference?

    Sometimes there's capacitor issues, this may help discharge them fully for when you restart. But I think your TV is on its way out, might be possible to fix, but honestly with the prices of TVs these days, its kind of worth trying a new one.

    Random question, unlikely but any magnetic sources around you thats affecting it? (cables bunched up too much?)

  • Anyone who writes "what do yoos reckon" should not be opening a TV

  • Unplug the Power Core, Careful open the back cover, then use methane to clean all connectors, make sure vacuum any small insect inside, if see some electro cap head pop up, might be time to replace all electro caps, caps only last 7 years, after that they all deteriorate, some become half capacitor value, e.g. 470uF down to 200uF something, anyway, best way to bring the whole unit to repair shop to do it if you didn't have any electronic knowledge.

    • Unplug the Power Core, Careful open the back cover, then use methane to clean all connectors

      Then after the explosion, problem solved…

  • silly question But have you used the remote or buttons on the screen to adjust contrast and brightness to max, also used pin 0000 to reset TV back to factory settings?

  • I see there are a lot of stabs in the dark above. Some of them slightly more clued than others ;-)

    Based on your description and sequence of events, the problem is most likely with the LCD drivers. Here is a more comprehensive list of things to check, in the other of likelihood:

    • faulty "chip on glass" electronics on the panel -> chuck TV
    • faulty main power supply (which in turn fried other components) -> chuck TV
    • faulty main power supply (but no damage to other parts) -> easily repairable
    • faulty power regulators on LCD driver board -> repairable
    • faulty LCD panel connection -> easily repairable if a simple connection issue, tricky if faulty connector or cable
    • faulty memory / ICs on LCD driver board / main board -> board swap, if one is available, otherwise chuck TV
  • Thanks for everyones input, especially to outlander for the troubleshooting advice and shaiguy for the video link.
    I fixed it!
    It was really easy, I took the back off, dusted the inside and then disconnected the Tcom cable, cleaned the end with metho and reconnected.
    Just have to figure out what Im going to do with the left over screw.
    Im pretty happy, I dont have to spend any money on another TV and that Ive not contributed to landfill.

    • Well done. It's always good to be able to bring things back to life. Especially something as big as a TV. Those things really should last at least 15-20 years, rather than being replaced before the age of 5.

    • That's brilliant. You're a wizard now :)

      Goes to show that listening to the jokers and the naysayers doesn't profit.

  • TIME FOR UPGRADE