Would Someone Help Me Buy a Second Hand Car?

Hi everyone.

I am looking at buying a second hand car in the next month or so.

However, I know nothing about cars.
I know what I want, I know my budget, but I wouldn't have a clue how to see if a car is in good shape / lemon.
I know you can pay to have someone inspect the car before you buy it.

I'd like to know if there's any mechanic / haggle experts in Brisbane that would help me get a second hand car?

Any tips / things to look for / insults are welcome.

Comments

  • +3

    RACQ do inspections - https://www.racq.com.au/cars-and-driving/products-and-servic…

    Use Redbook and carsales to check pricing.

    • Yeah I've been using Redbook.
      It's crazy how some people still try to sell a 20 years old shitbox for twice the price on Redbook

      • +1

        That's covid for ya

  • +1

    You could get an NRMA inspection. Jeez - quite expensive - $270. Are the NRMA in Queensland? Local equivalent then.

    https://www.mynrma.com.au/cars-and-driving/car-servicing/mob…

    Beaten to the punch- slow writer.

    • RACQ is the NRMA in QLD

  • +2

    Make that $300 for non-members.

    "A standard inspection will take 60-90 minutes."

    That's a well paid mechanic - crikey.

    • Can you even pick up any issues in 60-90 minutes?

      • Some. All of these inspections are basically a look over and a quick drive. They can’t assess for internal problems in that short time. So nothing will be guaranteed, but they’ll do as good a job as any experienced car person can do.

    • "A standard inspection will take 60-90 minutes."

      Plus travel etc.

      That's a well paid mechanic - crikey.

      Yeah, lucky they have no overheads at all. Oh wait…

      • +2

        Lucky they probably don't have years and years of diagnosis experience and a skill set that the buyer doesn't have…

        Wait, what?

    • +2
      • travel there and back + costs + overheads + actually writing the report.
  • What are you looking for?

    • Low kms (under 150k ideally)
      Ford Escape - Mazda Tribute - Xtrail - $5000
      Automatic

      I don't care if it has dings or peeled paint as long as the engine is good.

      • +3

        Definitely needs a mechanical inspection then if you know little about cars. Get the RACQ one.

      • +1

        With a $5k budget you'll be far better served sticking with a Corolla or equivalent reliable hatchback or sedan.

        There's also the fact that there are zero cars matching your criteria on Carsales for that price.

        • +1

          I agree.

          But there's also a ton of cars on carsales where the owners have put a $10k price tag for a car that's really just worth $5k.

          That's what I'm looking for

      • +7

        $5000

        If the engine starts and the car moves without the wheels falling off, buy

      • +4

        I hope you aren't looking at V6 escape and tribute, both of which are the same terrible car.

        • I owned a 2010 4 cyl escape for 5 years. Not much power though otherwise I thought it a decent car for my needs (did several multi thousand road trips in it). Probably your best bet in that price range. I picked that model as they are low tech, simple with less to go wrong. They are basically a cheap version of a Forrester.

          If you're lucky you may find an older person who has had one for a while.

          • @Hardlyworkin: You may notice I specifically mentioned the V6. The 4 cylinder is much better, but it is nothing at all like a forester.

            • @brendanm: Why nothing at all like a Forester? Similar size, style and purpose. What would a Forester have done differently for me that my Escape didn't?

              • @Hardlyworkin: Due to it being nothing like a forester. A forester is a wagon to start with. Forester is north/south engine. Forester has a different 4wd system. Forester is actually built well. Forester has read risk brakes instead of drums. Forester has low range if it's a manual.

                • +1

                  @brendanm: But but but, 4 wheels, engine, transmission, seats inside, a steering wheel and "tissue box on wheels" styling… Sound the same to me… :D

                • +1

                  @brendanm: Despite the differences, I still fail to see what an Escape wouldn't do when the budget won't afford a Forester? So for an auto it may have stopped better and performed differently off-road.

                  Sorry if I offended by calling a vehicle that looks very much like a SUV a SUV when technically it's a wagon ;)

                  • @Hardlyworkin:

                    I don't see how you can't understand it after spelling it out.

                    By your metric, how is the escape any different to a Porsche cayenne?

                    Also, I'm not offended, you are simply saying two cars are similar, that aren't.

                    • +1

                      @brendanm: Ok, so they are not similar even if they may look it - similar size, shape, seating, engine size, cabin size. One is cheaply built, one is well built though both could both be options for a buyer looking for an older compact SUV type vehicle. I considered both and went the cheaper option. It's explicitly clear though that a cheaply built Ford should never be compared with a Subaru as this will cause embarrassment to Subaru Fanboys.

                      I traded my Escape in for a Cayenne as I needed a bit more power for the school run.

                      • @Hardlyworkin: Lol, ok champ. Your escape isn't even constant AWD, unlike the Subaru, which is pretty much Subarus "thing". I'm also not a Subaru fanboy, haven't owned one for many years.

                        • @brendanm: Fair enough mate. If I could save money better and wasn't such a tightarse I'd own one. Have a good evening.

                • @brendanm: In what world is a Forester a wagon lmao, you're off your rocker. And reading into this far too much. As far as any average punter is concerned, an Escape and a Forester are very similar cars, despite having many minor differences.

                  • @[Deactivated]: How is a forester not a wagon? As far as any average punter is concerned, any car with 4 wheels and 5 doors is the same as a forester and tribute.

                    • @brendanm: In the world where it is, and always has been, an SUV? The outback is (or at least, was) a wagon. The Forester is way too tall and short to be a wagon..it's an SUV through and through.

                      • +1

                        @[Deactivated]: The new one perhaps, but we aren't talking about the new one. I've owned a couple of foresters, and they were wagons.

                        • @brendanm: Yep. The forester I had was a wagon (gen 2). It’s just changed a bit as the competitors came along. It had to LOOK higher to match them which also meant it ultimately looks shorter as well.

                          Most SUVs are a variation of a wagon and and SUV wasn’t even a thing until the RAV4 came along.

      • Xtrails are decent. I had one for about 5 years and no issues. Mine was a great car (T31-ST-Auto). Don't know about the other 2 in your list.

  • +2

    tips - learn about cars, the basics, so you know what you're looking for, when the car you buy is making funny noises, and what they mean (to keep it roadworthy!)
    second tip, adjust your expectations, you can't afford the car you want https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/?sort=~Price&q=(And.Service.CARSALES..(C.State.Queensland..Region.Brisbane%20All.).(Or.(C.Make.Ford..Model.Escape.).(C.Make.Nissan..Model.X-TRAIL.).(C.Make.Mazda..Model.Tribute.))_.GenericGearType.Automatic.)

    things to look for - missing service record, colour of oil, engagement of auto box, blue smoke. something that sounds to good to be true (it wil be). Escape/Tribute/X-trail under 150k in decent mechanical condition for $5k? Not likely.

    insult - mind went blank, sorry!

    • +2

      $5k car is highly likely to have a missing service record.

      • +2

        or one 'filled in by user'.

    • I found a $9000 Xtrail that fits the bill.

      Of course, being on this forum there's no way I will pay what the seller asks.

      But it is a nice car (from the photos)

      My budget is not really $5000 - I just don't want to pay more than I should

      • +1

        They can have a CVT (constant variable) transmission, and these get issues. See alot for sale with this issue. So pay attention to how smoothly it shifts and use the sports shift (plus and minus). Our 2009 Dualis would lag shifting up hills, especially using sports shift. I learned not to use it because it seemed like it would mess up the gearbox. We bought it from a big dealer and were the second owner. A five minute drive probably won't show this. I think they began resolving the issue around 2015?

        Probably want to also check the engine, suspension and transmission as main areas. Then also the chassis and all boots/seals. The best thing is to download a checklist and tick the items off. Missed doing that on my last car and would have to spend close to the purchase price to get things right.

      • if you want advice, give your true budget. you've just almost doubled it, with al that implies. if you want a cheap crapbox buy a cheap crapbox and pay every time you drive it. If you want a better motor, buy a better motor.

        • My "true budget" is under $10k

          But that being said, I will not pay $10k for a car that's worth half that.

          The fact that I don't know much about cars (and don't really care about cars either) I just don't want to buy a lemon or pay way too much for it.

          I could go to a dealership and get a loan to buy a brand new car, but I don't want to pay $40k for a car either

    • +1

      Seat Condition and gear stick, pedals also a good thing to check for type of driving. Less wear with high odometer is usually a sign of less small trips and/or well looked after. Don’t let a good wax job fool you. After the first day out in the rain that will be gone.

  • Buy this.

    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2001-toyota-camry-c…

    It'll go more places than a pseudo AWD.

    • Thanks
      That's some low ks but I still think it's crazy to pay $5 grand on a 20 ears old car

      • Finding a 20yo car that is still worth $5k is a good indicator that it’s a good reliable car and people recognise that. Either that, or it was worth $100k new and is basically scrap value now.

        Tip: don’t buy a cheap luxury car unless you can fix it yourself.

  • +2

    PPSR report and check for mismatched panels which are indicative of repairs and resprays.

    Make sure you factor in rego and insurance.

  • https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2005-bmw-x5-e53-aut…

    Would this be a good car?

    I don't care for BMWs but are they reliable?

    • +1

      have a guess

    • If you have to ask if old BMW's are reliable, then you should not be buying old BMW's…

    • Which part of "I don't know anything about cars" did you guys not understand?

      Thanks for your input though.

      It is greatly appreciated

      • +3

        Old saying for you… "If you cant afford a new BMW, you certianly cant afford a used BMW" (and you can alternate BMW out for basically any Euro shitbox, VW, Audi, Benz, anything French, etc…)

        • I really don't care for "luxury" or BMWs
          I am exploring options around that price point.

          I also wonder, how trustworthy the carsales "great price" " low price" "good price" tags are on the posts?

          • +1

            @Nuclearvodka: Since you know nothing, the simple rule is: Buy Japanese or Korean only with your budget. Toyota, Honda, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Nissan, Hyundai, Kia only. (Except if I missed one!)

            Possible exception is Commodore it Falcon if you want a large car.

          • +1

            @Nuclearvodka: It would be just averaged across all those vehicles being sold and where the car you are looking at fits within that price range. If there are 30 of the same vehicle for sale and they range from $5k to $25k, it may look at variables such as features, km/ etc and work out where your cat fits in across all the currently listed prices.

            And at the end of the day, Redbook is a good "suggestion" on prices, but Carsales is NOT a good indication of prices. I often hear people saying "but its $30,000 on Carsales… That's right, it is listed for that price, not sold for that price. There is usually a gaping chasm between asking price and sale price, hence why most cars on carsales have been listed on there for months.

            Some people want drug money for their shitboxes on Carsales. They want more for it than what dealers are offering the same vehicle for. If I'm paying RRP on a car, I am going to buy it at the place were I am covered by ACL and statutory purchasing rights.

        • +2

          Yes! Anyhing French!

      • +1

        truth bomb. for 10k you want a top range car. you won't get one .Anything 'nice' will have been trashed, trashed and poorly treated. Buy a 10k corolla type car, it'll STILL cost the same 10k as a rot box 'premium' bmw, but think….

        On your point of what you (with your stated claim to know nothing about cars ). People buy cars for this much therefore that is what they are worth in the market (forget redbook). If they weren't worth this ijn the current market (not worth it to you, but worth it in the market) then they would be priced at less already. They are priced at what price people are currently paying (give or take).

        A 10k corolla will probably be less hassle if the car is simply a means to get around safely and reliably over a car that has depreciated a lot more because of it's condition. Yes it's still 50% of new price compared to 20% of new price for your said BMW. Wonder why that is? Large repair bills from the BMW, and a greater (on average) likelihood of something big and expensive going pop.

    • Hmmmm, car that was $90kish new, for $9k. What could go wrong?

      You need to look at Honda, Hyundai, Kia, Toyota, Mazda, Mitsubishi. Not BMW, Audi, Peugeot, etc.

  • +1

    Choose from Carsales
    Then check to PPSR if the car has any issues.
    Check car logbook if it is timely/up to date.
    Drive the car in low and high speed but don’t crash it.Stick to the trusted brands like Japs or Koreans and you will be ok.

    Oh, always ask for the best price or discount.

  • +2

    I bought a used car off eBay sight unseen 500km away. Got my brother to pick it up if it sounded and felt ok on a short drive.

    That was back when private sellers were the norm on eBay - can't remember if there were any dealers - and there was a kilometrage filter so you could look for the low km ones. Picked it because it had very low kms. They've ruined eBay for cars now.

    I don't have it but it's still going good.

  • Hi i'm looking for buying a used card as well. My budget is $5000 or less. I just got my licence last month and I know nothing about cars.
    Please give me advices. Thank you

    • Read all the above posts and list suggestions in point form. Use that as a guide.

    • +2

      Step 1: pick a size. Small, medium, large
      Step 2: pick a style. Hatch, sedan, suv, Ute etc.
      Step 3: pick a Japanese or Korean brand fitting 1 & 2.
      Step 4: read this thread again

      • thanks mate. just bought a car. Toyota corrola levin 2020 Auto for $4250. No idea whether the price is good but I'm happy with my purchase, the body is in good condition and it has reverse camera which I like.

  • Stick with popular name car brands

    Eg. Toyota, Ford, Mazda, etc.

    • I am interested in the Mazda Tribute or the Ford Escape.
      Both recommended brands (I even think the Escape was built in Oz)

      And yet some people mentionned they were terrible cars.

      What are good reliable cars that aren't Corollas?

      • What's your budget>?

        • TBH it keeps changing.

          Ideally up to $10K

          It'll be a second car that'll be used for short commutes and going camping twice a year

          • @Nuclearvodka: Can't go wrong with a Toyota.

            Even a Kia or Hyundai.

            Just try get something not too old (ie. before say……2015 if possible) and avoid odometres in the 100,000s+

            I've got a Nissan Dualis that has done 190,000kms and is still running strong and never had any issues with it since purchasing it in 2012. (Has a tow bar which I've used trailers a few times to help friends moving house)

            • @Danstar: At my price point the best I found was an Xtrail 165kms from 2008

              Great condition and good price.

              If I want a 2015 car with 100kms on it, it'll cost more than $10k

  • Depending on your budget, I would not worry about "independent inspectors".
    Car years have an obligation and offer a warranty.
    Yeas ago old bombs could be purchased for $200… but bc of the mandatory warranties, no vehicle is ever seen under $1,500.

    If you know your budget, and know your vehicle, check on line: Cars.com/ Graysonline/ etc.

    But I would recommend you purchase from a car yard.

    I advise you look on Utube in how to purchase a vehicle… these salesmen are "professionals" and by the end of the day you would be walking out with a RollsRoyce.

    Stick to your budget, always have an out card (oh I have to consult my partner, etc) and NEVER get drawn into the office - if you are simply just looking.

    • Thanks but dealerships are always more expensive than private sellers.

      Do they offer more warranty?

      Is that peace of mind worth $1000s?

  • +2
    1. At least 5 years old (fully depreciated)
    2. Between 60,000km and 80,000km
    3. Four cylinder, 2.0 litre, non-turbo engine
    4. Manual transmission
    5. Japanese made

    You can't go too far wrong it you follow the above steps.

    • +1

      I was looking for an SUV, looks like I'm getting a Mazda 3
      (I'm sorry I'm allergic to Corollas)

  • +1

    DEFINITELY make sure you have someone with you who knows what they are doing, mechanically minded but also savvy when dealing with money…. Do not listen to anything the seller says without actual proof…

    Seen so many ads "oh it was serviced every 5000ks but I lost the books…. Yeah right idiot…

    • I feel like I'm OK when it comes to dealing with money.
      But I genuinely know nothing about cars.
      I have many hobbies, but cars aren't one of them.

      • Always haggle, never pay full price

  • +1

    Going through the same thing at the moment, similar budget around 10k. Lots of people buying in our space (thanks to early super etc), if you have to buy now like I do basically we'll get ripped off. used car prices are up 30% vs Oct 2019. "covid premium" is well and truly here until at least Q1 next year.

  • +1

    Stay away from the V6 ford escape/tribute, they are known lemons with expensive transmission issues. I have heard the 4 cylinder versions arent too bad though.

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