Looking for Real Weed Killer That Actually Works

My backyard is a mess with overgrown weeds, I have tried all brands from Woolworths ,Bunnings etc but nothing seems to work.

Is there some strong weed killer that actually shows results?

I want such an item that I can apply for my entire backyard and in 2 or 3 days my backyard should look like a desert sand

Is there any such weed killer ?

Comments

  • +6

    Kamba for selective

    Roundup for everything

    Bunnings links for info, products can be found cheaper elsewhere

  • +1

    Most weed killers won't kill grass species like paspalan because they assume people don't want to also kill their lawn so it depends on what kind of weed we're talking. I've had success with normal weed and feed for clover, bindii and other common weeds.

    • weed & feed products are being banned by many countries. better off using a separate weed killer if necessary

    • +2

      Glypho is non selective weed killer, will kill any plant if applied at the recommended amount for that particular species, whether considered weed or not.

      • doesn't kill everything has very little if any effect on mondo grass, agapanthus, wandering jew, clover and a fgew others works well on most grasses but you will need multiple applications for cooch

        • At dilution rates for general weeds … sure some things survive, apply it neat and often enough to those plants and they will die.

  • +5

    +1 for Roundup - Glyphosate. However, the best time to apply it is when the weeds are actively growing, Spring.

    This time of year results are slow and may be patchy, especially with heavy overnight dew and/or rain.

    • +3

      And they are unlikely to kill everything quickly enough for it to look like a desert in a couple days.
      But a good dose of glyphosate should knock them back in about a week or two.

    • +1

      +1 for Roundup - Glyphosate.

      if you don't care about your health, sure…

      • +14

        You're meant to spray it on the weeds, not yourself.

        • -2

          Yet it contaminates waterways, kills amphibious animals and creates a landscape where nothing will grow for many years once it builds up, I have personally had to deal with it's affects on my property caused by my neighbors indiscriminate use of it, even on my property till I moved in and stopped them! I was once a gardener who believed the lie "Low mammalian toxicity" and regret the use of it!

  • +1

    Weed killer won't work in a few days. Takes a week or two as it is the leaf photosynthesising that kills it.

      • Did you actually read some of the reviews???

        Here is one that might concern me:

        It kills only foliage. Instant results, then 3 days later everything I sprayed is growing back better than before. Sorry more research needs to be done to kill the roots to make this a better product.

        • Did you actually read some of the reviews???

          Don't need to. I've been using it for over a year now and it works great.

        • You've gotta use the right tool for the right job… slasher is great for leafy type weeds. It's super fast, so near instant sanctification is a plus.

          Don't waste your money using it on woody or bulb based weeds - eg. onionweed - it'll burn, but just grow back later.

          • @bobbieb: I agree most of what you are saying except your endorsement of a product with such dismal reviews.

            slasher is great for leafy type weeds. It's super fast, so near instant sanctification is a plus.

            But if the "leafy type" weeds grow back the next day or two, then what's the point?

            Almost all the reviews are saying the same thing.

            • +1

              @DoctorCalculon: I get the bad reviews… not everyone really knows the difference between the different weed types and it's pretty hard to explain on the back of a bottle - not that they really tried.

              However, slasher does kill leafy weeds… the kinda weeds that are gonski if you massacre them with a line trimmer, or do a rough hand-weed, are what this works well for. It's the same principal as so many regular plants that'll die if you prune them too aggressively. They depend on sunlight and nutrients absorbed through the leaves to stay alive. Nuke the foliage, the plant starves and dies off.

              Edit: It's worth mentioning that not all "green" weeds necessarily fall into this category… If you're like many trying to minimize glyphosate use, weeds with sizable tap-roots are better off just being weeded by hand. For me, it was a matter of learning which of the common weeds in my garden slasher yields results for.

              • @bobbieb: You should get commissions from Slasher for taking the time to write up such a great explanation.

                What about the smell that was mentioned by many reviewers? Do you just wear a N95 mask when you apply it?

                What would you recommend for the onion bulb type weed? I usually pull them out by hand as some of them seem to be resistant to Roundup even.
                Some of them won't come out that easily as they are deeply rooted into the soil.

                • +1

                  @DoctorCalculon:

                  You should get commissions from Slasher for taking the time to write up such a great explanation.

                  Haha… I wish. None of this stuff is cheap.

                  What about the smell that was mentioned by many reviewers? Do you just wear a N95 mask when you apply it?

                  It does have a bit of an odor to it, but doesn't rank high on the scale of stinky things gardeners have to deal with. It's not the kind of stink that lingers in the garden, but you might not wanna get it on you. I generally mask up when spraying anything, but not really due to the smell. (Kudos to whoever at Nutrog came up with the brand whoflungdung it certainly lives up to its name.)

                  What would you recommend for the onion bulb type weed? I usually pull them out by hand as some of them seem to be resistant to Roundup even.
                  Some of them won't come out that easily as they are deeply rooted into the soil.

                  As a rule, try to avoid disturbing bulb weeds like onion-weed. It truly just makes things worse.

                  Alas, I still allow a small bottle of glyphosate/roundup concentrate in the shed for these sort of weeds. Other than just being persistent, when I must use it, a couple of pro-tips for glyphosate are:

                  • We're only just now really starting to understand how this stuff works (sad, given the harm it has caused) but the theory seems to be that glyphosate is best absorbed when it's sitting wet on the foliage. So apply it on a wind-free, cloudy day to maximise the time the weed it wet.
                  • Add a drop or two of dishwashing liquid to the mix when diluting a batch. It supposedly helps cut through the waxy coat that a lot of these weeds tend to have.
                  • Glyphosate is deceptively strong as a systematic herbicide. Don't let it get on anything you don't wanna kill. Roses in particular seem to be particularly susceptible. I often don gloves and use a small paintbrush to target weeds in amongst the garden bed plants.
    • In summer when applied to plants growing vigorously Glyphosate Does work quickly, I have seen plants with good water applied wilting in the late afternoon that had it applied at midday, worked as a gardener for many years.

  • any glyphosate product should work. and by the sounds of things they will have seed heads so all the weeds will probably reseed after a while

  • +2
  • Hire a gardener? They're experienced and do the gruntwork

  • +2
  • +2

    I want such an items that I can apply for my entire backyard and in 2 or 3 days my backyard should look like a desert sand

    That would be fire then…..

    No weed killer is going to kill and remove the weed in that time frame.

  • I’ve used this and it kills everything.

    • and it kills everything.

      including people…

      In July 2021, Monsanto owner Bayer AG said it would remove glyphosate-based herbicides from the U.S. consumer market by 2023 due to tens of thousands of lawsuits brought by people alleging they developed non-Hodgkin lymphoma from exposure to the company’s glyphosate herbicides, such as Roundup.

      https://usrtk.org/pesticides/glyphosate-health-concerns/

  • +2

    Charlie don't turf! Now get out there soldier!

  • -1

    Use salt

    • if you want to wreck your soil, sure

      • +2

        2 or 3 days my backyard should look like a desert sand

        Just giving Op what he wants.

  • Kero

    Diesel

    Get a goat

    • +2

      BBQ goat. Yuuuum.

  • +1

    As other have said, Glyphosate/Roundup/Zero, when you mix it up add a good squirt of dishwashing liquid to it, this acts as a wetting agent which helps the killer stick to the leaves and break through the waxy coating some weeds have… The dishwashing liquid makes the weed killer much more effective in my experience..

    • Dishwashing liquid is definately the easiest wetting agent most people have access to and these help, but its not working by helping it stick. They work by reducing the surface tension which allow the glyphosate droplets to spread across the leaf surface and so are absorbed more efficiently, and so kill the weed more effectively (which also means you can often reduce the dose and still get the same kill effect).
      In farming typically use around 100-200g of "BS wetter 1000" per 1000L of herbacide (glyphosate), which improves the kill amount greatly, doesnt take much of a wetting agent to have a very beneficial effect.

    • I came here to say this, I have ivy and periwinkle growing out the front, I’ve had no success with glyphosate directly. Next I’m going to try add soap to it because I’ve heard they’re waxy which inhibits the absorption into the leaves. Figured soap should help. Will report back my success.

      • +1

        Ivy? You gotta drill a hole through the vine and fill glyphosate in there, they'll die within a few months.

        • 2nd the drilling of holes. Spraying does not work on ivy, the devil's weed.
          Also, resist the urge to cut and chop it until you've killed it with poison. You want the poison to spread all over the plant.

          If drilling is not possible on the smaller stems and branches, use a knife and scrap off sections, then paint the glyphosate on. With the drilled holes, get a small syringe and inject pure into them.

          Wait 2 months for the plant to die. Then ideally, wait for summer to dry it out and turn brittle. I was able to pull and break off most of it using my gloves hands instead of sawing and cutting like I had to when it's freshly dead

  • yates

    mix your own concentrate…

    this stuff on it's own unmixed is potent enough to kill large trees

  • hot water killed moss that was growing. maybe grab the kettle and keep boiling and pouring?

  • Are you spraying 24 hours prior to rain or water, are you cutting the grass after its sprayed or spraying after it been cut, are you using the correct spray for the weed you're trying to get rid of?

    Weeds take a long time to disappear. It will start to yellow within a week.

  • -3

    Organic

  • Glyphosate, you need to make sure you are mixing it in the correct ratio for your area. If you add too much, it won't work as good. It also takes longer than 2-3 days.

  • +1

    This bad boy
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-4-prongs-xact-weed-pulle…
    & Elbow grease

    Won't kill everything around the weed as well unlike roundup

  • +1

    Brunnings has something in a brown bottle called "Path Weeder". $12 for a concentrated bottle that can be diluted to cover a huge area.

    Nothing grows for 6mths to a year when I used it on pavers and planters.

    Be VERY careful as the runoffs will kill off even trees nearby. Learnt that lesson the hard way

    • Please, please don’t use this. This contains Simazine. It is once a year because it remains active out of the bottle for months and months. Any water that passes your poisoned path picks it up and moves it along into stormwater, then rivers, sea - killing plants as it goes.

      Banning has been actively considered for years but it stays available as for some primary producers there is sometimes no alternative. Domestic users don’t have the skills to apply it safely, and overapply or use it on sloping surfaces etc.

      Water samples from our waterways, estuaries and even some open waters show residuals of this.

      • Yeah, it's nastier than glyphosate.

        I had to use it on a rental as the weed was out of control due to neglect and there's way too much pavers to weed by hand.
        After the first year, I switched to spot spraying of glyphosate and hand weeding.

  • +2

    If its weeds in your lawn then look at getting Bow and Arrow (sold online). Works a treat.

  • Thank you everyone
    Will try and update which one worked

    • Round up will definitely work, but in winter it will take at least 2 weeks as opposed to 3 days in summer to see the impact so don't overdose otherwise you will see some collateral damage.

    • Any update?

  • Can I ask what works to remove weed/grass that grow between pavement gaps?

    I tried hot water and vinegar but doesnt seem to work.

    • Roundup

  • -2

    Enjoy cancer

  • If you want your lawn to look like "desert sand" then roundup will do it. You'll end up with a yard of dead lawn that you're going to have to remove if you want to returf though.

  • I use this on our property and it kills everything. Usually spray with bit of dishwasher soap to act as a wetting agent. https://fernland.com.au/adama-wipe-out-pro-540-glyphosate-he…

  • +1

    If you want a non toxic fast acting option, grab a bunch of double strength vinegar and spray it thoroughly over everything you want to die. Results in a day or two.

    If you want it dead forever, a bag or two of pool salt spread around will make it as barren as the Sahara.

  • It will depend on your future plan for the area. Do not use Vinegar/salt as it will render the area toxic for your lifetime. Persevere with a no grow 450 strength & follow directions If you need a followup do so after most weeds are drying to prevent a second shoot coming Spray when dry weather for 1 week

  • Brunnings One Hour Weed Kill is great for most weeds….definitely better than standard weed killer….often on half price special at Woolies or Foodland.

  • Think of your environment, and family.

    A neighbour uses a particular weed killer, and each time he does, I will have dizzy spells, head ache, and literally, my nose will start to bleed.

    But of course, you ring the poison's help line, and receive some blasé response, as too when you contact the product manufacturer, and the Australian Regulators. All deny any responsibility.

    So how come the USA has banned the usage? They are a known carcinogenic product, so take Kare, think about your environment, and more importantly, your family.

  • -1

    Apparently pissing into the weed plant will kill it within your time frame of 2 to 3 days. Just make sure it doesn't rain after (and during) you piss on it for two or three days straight and the weed should go all soggy brown and tan like colour and die or else the rain will wash away your piss and you have to start again.

  • Cut down then mulch … then as the weeds start to grow through the mulch spray a mixture of salt and white vinegar on them, in 2 weeks they will be dead, so long as it does not rain, Glyphosate (Zero etc) is cancerous to humans, builds up in soils and causes the death of frogs and waterways are affected.
    The idea that the small amounts of salt sprayed directly on the unwanted growing plants is bogus, it would take a lot of salt to render soil toxic, salt also leaches away well.

    https://www.getgreenbewell.com/homemade-weed-killer-vinegar-…

  • 'Tree and Blackberry killer' concentrate. But I think that it is very toxic!

  • Plain cheap vinegar. 2litres $1.20 does the job

    • does the vinegar needs to add to water or just mix some salt and dishliquid and spray?

      • just pour vinegar on weed, make sure that the plants you want to keep are not near the weed

  • Oh. And “slasher” is awesome. Works in hours not days/weeks. Might need a touch up in a week or 3, but extremely effective. And organic certified!

  • Bikies.

  • Merged from Weed killer recommendations

    Hi all,
    Does anyone have any recommendations for a good weed killer product (commercial or home grade)?

    I've tried the ones at Bunning but it doesn't seem to do the job well and takes ages for the weeds to die.

    I had a garden maintenance guy do some general garden maintenances at home a few months ago including weed killing and the product he used seemed to have killed the weeds instantly.

    Thanks :)

    • Up the glyphosate concentration, though its not officially recognised as a carcinogen, i'd look to other alternatives.

    • I've had success with weed killers that are a nonanoic acid base. Not toxic like glyphosate ones, but still killed a variety of weeds. I used a 50/50 ratio in a spray bottle but still wore protective gear.

      Similar to this one https://www.bunnings.com.au/eco-organic-garden-3l-ready-to-u…

      • +1

        my dad swears by this stuff!

      • +1

        It is glyphosate the poison that made Monsanto rich and now them dumb Germans were tricked to buy it as the lawsuits keep coming in.
        Technically a growth hormone. It works by burning out the plant if it gets the right dose. Underdosing can lead to resistance. A huge upcoming problem!
        https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glyphosate-based_herbicides

    • When I used a pine based weed killer the grass and weeds were brown the next day, but it's not available at all hardware/nurseries.

    • Pool salt works a treat for edges and stuff like that, not for weeds poking out of cracks though.

      • Sprinkled on thinly or heaped-on?

        • +1

          Thin layer, but an actual layer.

          Realise that this will perma poison the soil though. Nothing will ever really grow well there again so don't use it in your veggie patch etc.

          • @illogicalerror: Sounds like a viable option for my use case - Approx 12m x 10cm alongside a fence.

    • There's selective weedkillers for lawns. To shelf is a product called Bow and Arrow for buffalo

      Bin Die is at bunnings

    • I don’t where you live but weed killer doesn’t work that well in the colder months as it takes longer to absorb it also depends on the weed you are trying to kill.
      Here in Melbourne weeds/grass like couch kikuyu and buffalo don’t grow that well in winter hence longer time to kill.

      • Yes, I add more glysophate concentrate to the water during winter months as it takes longer for the weeds to die in cold weather.

    • +1

      What kind of weeds do you have?

      https://lawnpride.com.au/pages/lawn-weeds-identification

      I use Bow and Arrow and Contra M which seems to work well for me.

    • +1

      What weeds are you trying to kill? Glyphosate if applied correctly will kill nearly every weed in my garden.

      I don't think the poison is the issue.

    • we had similar thread not long ago.. lots of discussion there. from mitre10
      have a look

    • dicamba M is good for broad leaf weeds, grass is untouched (except buffalo).

    • Apologies for the partial thread hijack from a useless gardener.

      All the banter about effectiveness against weeds, interspersed with comments about selective herbicides brings me to (what I hope is) a simple question.

      I have pebbles along my fenceline to try and suppress "stuff" from growing. But the weeds and grasses keep popping up. Is there some sort of "If it is green and leafy it will die" product that I can apply? In terms of safety/risk, there are no other adjacent gardens, nature strips, ponds etc that I need to worry about just a footpath.

      • +1

        Do you have weed matting under the pebbles or soil? As the weed seeds likely are just germinating in the pebble aggregate.

        There's stuff for this - worth trying: https://www.bunnings.com.au/brunnings-1l-path-weeder_p301348…

        Anything with SImazine will work well on seeds that are already there, but I think you're getting new ones blown in and dunno if they'd be killed if they landed AFTER you sprayed.

        I'd think long term success might be better gotten by ensuring that weed mat is underneath (so nothing will advance very far) and just give it a dust with glpho every few weeks to get the early stuff).

        I have similar situation here on part of property.

        • Do you have weed matting under the pebbles or soil?

          Negative. I suspect that when they put the Colourbond fencing over the horrible old soil they presumed NOTHING would grow in it ;-)

          Maybe I should shovel-out/vacuum-up the pebbles and put down some matting.

          There's stuff for this - worth trying:

          For $12 it's worth a shot!

          Thanks for your help and suggestions.

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