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No Pull Dog Training Lead $21.86 (Was $31.29) + Delivery ($0 with $99 Spend) @ Doodee Dog

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No Pull Dog training lead 175 cm with choking safety @Doodee Dog

Down from $31.29 to $21.86.

Plus 10% additional discount after registered

Available in green colour

Deal end 27 Sep 2021

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Comments

  • Hi, green its showing at $21.86, the rest are showing at $29.39

  • +2

    How does it work? Does it zap the little Farka if he pulls?

  • +2
    • Haltis are much nicer for the dog.

      • 100% this,

        • +2

          Head halters are significantly more dangerous for the larger/stronger dogs and those with poor impulse control. When lunging the snapping of the head to the side can damage the spine and vertebrae.

          Anything incorrectly fitted or used is going to potentially cause your dog issues though.

          Martingales that slip to the base of the throat or mid section can choke or act like a normal collar and cause pressure on the thyroid.
          Normal collars that press down on the thyroid as the dog pulls can cause inflammation which in turn triggers an auto-immune response to kill the cells of the thyroid gland.

    • Halti are great ,helped so much with my dog who pulls a lot and the halti worked magic and doesn’t hurt the dog

  • -2

    I thought these were used for BDSM

  • +2

    It's easy to train your dog not to pull without one of these….

  • Seems like they have tried to use anything but a body harness with these

  • This seems to be the same as a traditional ‘choke chain’. I’ve had success with my dog using a Martingale collar which applies the ’choke’ sensation in a less aggressive way. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martingale_(collar) I use this one from PetStock with nylon that doesn’t pull on her hair… https://www.petstock.com.au/product/dog/rogz-control-collar-...

    • Slip leads should have a stopper on them preventing them from overtightening. They essentially work the same way as a martingale collar. Don't buy slip leads without the stopper as then they will be exactly like old style choke chains.

      • Oh, good pick up on the stopper. I didn’t realise that was the purpose of that metal bit! :)

      • -1

        Waiiit. This doesn't sound right at all to me?

        Slip leads have a stopper to prevent the lead slipping down the neck, the stopper is to prevent the lead loosening too much, not tightening. Unless you are referring to a slip lead that has two stoppers? The stopper should allow some slack in the noose but not enough that it slips down their throat, ie you have it up under the chin behind below the ears. The stopper prevents the noose opening too far and slipping down over the throat and choking when they pull.

        Martingales will choke your dog if they excessively pull and the collar is not tight enough and sitting around the midsection (trachea) of the neck, same as a slip lead. Most martingales are simply half choke chains; some are material to prevent grabbing fur; but effectively work in the same fashion.

        You could use a single stopper on a slip lead to prevent "over tightening", but then risk it loosening when they are walking on a loose lead (how they are supposed to be walking) and then dropping down. What happens is they then get agitated and choke themselves as it's slipped down their throat.

        Ideally you should be paying attention to where the leads placement is sitting at all times and ensuring it is sitting high on the neck, not against the thyroid or trachea and obviously not down low where they will just pull.

        • +1

          Most modern slip leads have two stoppers. One to stop overtightening, on to stop it coming loose. They even highlight the additonal choking safety stopper in the link above. This has a metal buckle to prevent overtightening and a leather strap is to prevent it coming loose.

          Otherwise, slip leads like the EzyDog Luca have a large metal stoppers that prevents overtightening and a silicone stopper that prevent it coming loose. Their product discription even highlights that it can be used as a martingale.

          https://www.amazon.com.au/EzyDog-Luca-Leash/dp/B06XDQQX67/re...

          Slip leads with two stoppers are very similar to martingales in the fact that they will tighten when pulled on however are limited in the degree to which they can do so.

          Positioning of the collar is important no matter what type of collar you are using.

  • We have tried most of the products including Halti and our Border Collie still pulls :(

    • Our Border Collie cross is the same. When you say "most products", does that include the one in this post? I'm wondering whether to give it a try, because ours just will not change, and we've tried multiple loose-lead training techniques and they don't seem to work for us.

      • +1

        We have not tried OP one and I am sure it will not work as we have tried similar products in the past. We usually buy it from Amazon as you can return it if they are no good.

        I bought this couple of days ago and still waiting for it to be delivered .
        https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B005SC5RQW/ref=ppx_yo_d...

        • Thanks, good to know.

        • +1

          It may or may not work depending on the propensity of the animal to pull; environment they are in and what is on offer for the animal to not pull.

          Just remember with Martingale collars to not leave them on when your dog is unsupervised. Ex-partner worked as a vet and treated and lost dogs to choking. If the collar catches on something; it can choke the animal sadly.

          • @MorriJ: Thanks MorriJ for the information, my wife will kill me if something happens to the puppy :(

    • +4

      Training, training, training, training.
      With proper training, there is no need for any special collar, a dog will not pull.

      My most simplistic advice is that as soon as they pull ahead, turn around immediately and walk the other way. Do this over and over and over and look like a weirdo, but it will embarrass the dog who is trying to take lead. By constantly being in the wrong position, they should calm down and learn to follow, at the very least, pull less in which case a quick check on the lead will counter that.

      You should see a change within a few minutes, but will likely need constant enforcing.
      I also just flat out stop if the get ahead of me, before they can pull, and do not move until the come back to my side. Repeat this again, one step forward, and stop immediately, one step, stop, step, stop, step, stop. They will stop moving ahead, thus no need to change direction or check them.

      • 100% agree.

        We adopted an 8-year-old husky and he used to pull when we went out for walks. We did exactly that - step and stop. He quickly learned to stop pulling because he didn't get to go anywhere. After about 2 weeks there was no more pulling.

        When they are well-behaved, make sure to praise, praise and praise even after each step, praise and treat. Gradually you can wean off the treats. Also found training a tired dog is much easier than one that is full of energy.

      • +1

        I just wanted to say, THANK YOU for this advice. The previous "loose lead walking" advice we'd heard was to tug on the lead and walk in the opposite direction if they pull on the lead, but although we've been doing that for a year or two our Border Collie kept on pulling - I suspect he didn't understand why we were doing it. I think the definition of "pulling" is too vague to a dog, because it can range from slight tug to full-on dragging you forward, so it's hard to know what the correct threshold for changing direction is.

        But your suggestion about doing it as soon as he's in front is brilliant, and the "embarrassed" concept is so easy to relate to. I've been doing it for the last three days and I have to keep doing it through the walk - he keeps forgetting himself - but he's already much better and spends most of the time padding along beside me. It's a huge improvement.

        It's a bit trickier because we have two dogs that we go out with, and the other one lags behind if he thinks I'm going to turn around, but it's been a big improvement. We'll keep at it and hopefully I'll need to turn around less and less. (He still pulls when he sees other dogs… I'll have to keep working on that one.)

        So again, thank you snuke!

        • +1

          That's great to hear.
          One more tip for this and all training is to ensure you praise heavily when he does what you want/have asked to be done. Do it immediately so the connection between A and praise is processed correctly.

          With any training, always set them up to win, never make it too hard so they fail constantly, always do steps you know they can achieve and receive praise. If they are getting tired from lessons and start to achieve less, do one super simple request for them to do easily, even just Sit, and then stop on the positive. They will equate learning with fun this way.