DSLR/Mirrorless Camera Advice, Which Should I Buy?

I'm on the lookout to know which DSLR to buy so I can camp for a deal in the future.

I've played with DSLR's in the past and am looking to achieve things that a super good smartphone camera can't (debatable I know, but eg. not looking for ultrawide lens use). I'm looking to play hard on 'bokeh' 1.2-1.8 Apt shots.

Requirements:
- Kit can be found under 1k on a deal. Lenses are another story πŸ˜…
- Good access to lenses/2nd hand lenses (guessing this silos the options to Canon/Nikon)
- Reliable and there're places to service this brand's lenses in Melbourne (I'm based in Melb city)
- Known to be versatile with low light/low noise with higher iso
- Ideally not too heavy, but whatever lol I'll take what I can

Side note: what's the frame 'meta' nowadays? I rmb micro 4/3rd's used to be the rage back in the day but never got to understand why 🀣

Comments

  • I've got the Canon 5D with a 200mm lens (wide angle) and it's very heavy but takes amazing photos.

    I also have a Canon 700D which is much lighter with a 50mm lens (portraits and landscapes) and also takes incredible photos.

    Now I just switch the lens around and put the 200mm lens on the 700D and it's perfect for travel!

    Both are excellent in low light conditions according to me.

    • +8

      200mm lens (wide angle)

      Does not compute.

      • He probably means 50mm is wider than 200mm tele lens.Think you need a kit 24-70mm for wider angles. 35mm prime lenses are quite cheap too.

        • I read the post multiple times and I still can't understand it unless:
          1) the "(Wide Angle)" bit is removed, or
          2) cupcake considers 500mm as telephoto (in which case the 50mm is extreme UWA)

  • +1

    Kit can be found under 1k on a deal.

    OG A7 w/ kit lens is no slouch and can be picked up for <1k

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/product/sony-alpha-a7

    • I'd avoid the A7m1 since there's no IBIS. Sony lens are pricey too but third party companies like Tamron are really good value.

      • +1

        Given OP's intention to use fast lenses for shallow DoF photography, IBIS is not crucial. Also, it's a lot more compact and lighter to Sony's newer bodies (similar to the costly A7C).

        To the OP, my suggestion would be a Sony A7 Mk1 (~$700) plus a 50mm F1.8 lens (~$300).
        If you can find an Mk2 for cheap, go for it. The IBIS, sturdier lens mount and sensor reflection fix are worth the premium.
        If you're open to adapted lens, consider a Tokina AT-X Macro 90mm lens from the used market. The bokeh is simply delicious.

        • woah… I get that this has come with good sense. I'll note this down thanks!

      • +1

        originally I'd say I wouldn't worry about IBIS, but seeing how my photos could have camera shake even at 30 fps last weekend, might keep this in mind. (I try my best not to bump up iso unless I have to). Will keep my eye out for the Mk2.

        • You can't compare the A7 (or any good camera) against a mobile phone. The larger sensor size allows for faster shutter speed and lower ISOs. My Pixel 4a (OSS) is more likely to give me shaky and grainer pictures than the non-OSS A7 Mk1.
          Unless you shoot in very bad light and/or do run & gun photography, IBIS is less important than practicing good stabilisation technique (e.g. placing elbows on a surface).

          Do keep in mind Sony FE lenses are indeed larger & heavier than their APSC counterparts.
          If you want to stay light, consider the APSC-based A6xxx series instead. Plenty of good lenses for the system too.

  • Mirrorless an option for you? So many new or second hand older DSLRs would offer a look a phone can't achieve that well. Getting a cheap 50mm 1.8 is a great option for any interchangeable lens camera. Lenses like that will be far cheaper for DSLRs. Older DSLRs that would be cheap and still good are Nikon d700, d600/610 or Canon 5dii and 6d. They're all full frame giving you a shallower depth of field but there's lots of good crop cameras too. They will all do a great job but will be lacking newer camera features, mainly lack of stabilisation and lower quality video.

    • what're the usual pro/cons of mirrorless and/or crop cameras v full frame? (I know I can google but want your take on it)

      • +1

        For Interchangeable Lens Cameras (ILCs), crop will typically be micro four thirds (MFT) (2x crop) (Olympus, Panasonic) or Nikon, Canon, Sony (1.5, 1.6 x crop). In brief vs full frame (whether mirrorless or DSLR), the crop cameras are smaller, lighter (as are the lenses, especially m4/3), and cheaper. So winning there, but they also have a deeper depth of field at the same aperture, and will have more noise and less dynamic range. As you mentioned bokeh, full frame, with a wide aperture lens will give you shallower depth of field, but crop cameras can still achieve a nice bokeh / blurry background if fitted with a lens such as 1.2-1.8, even more so if you use an equivalent 85mm+ lens.

        Sorry have to tend to kids lol, but let me know if you want some more info.

  • +1

    what's the frame 'meta' nowadays? I rmb micro 4/3rd's used to be the rage back in the day but never got to understand why 🀣

    4/3rds was great for the time because it gives very lightweight cameras and cheaper lenses, but every camera maker has their own mirrorless equivalent these days, some with full frame sensors. Full frame lenses tend to be a bit more pricey simply because they have to be bigger, which also makes them heavier. So you get the tiny body with an A7 but a huge lens on it.

    I'm biased because I recently bought m4/3rds stuff, because I used to have 4/3rds. But it still offers a huge range of glass from both Panasonic and Olympus (as well as third party stuff) that's cheap. I'm not a good enough photographer to have to worry about the sensor size being an issue, or the loss of depth of field. But it certainly makes some beautiful shots on very cheap equipment.

    • ooooooo this was what I was looking for πŸ’‘ happy to go 4/3rds if it means the lenses are cheaper and it's lighter. (guessing they come in mirror/mirrorless versions, and that mirrorless is lighter/better/lasts longer).

      Does picture quality and aperture range differ much tho vs Full Frame ones?

      • M43 is great, especially if light and small are a priority. Only go for mirrorless versions such as Olympus EM5 i and ii, EM10ii (the camera I used to own). They were the first with the trend of mirrorless around 2012 with the Olympus EM5.

        Picture quality is still great, but it is weaker than full frame, mainly that it has more noise, especially at higher ISO, and with the same aperture and equivalent focal length it will look like 2x deeper depth of field. For example a f2 M43 25mm lens will look like a full frame f5.6 50mm lens.

        • +1

          Cheaper, lighter, smaller.

          But more iso noise, DoF x2, might looked a bit more zoomed in when comparing lenses πŸ€”

          Guess it depends on what I'm happy with πŸ’‘ Thanks heaps man (undecided but this helps)

          • +2

            @confidantduk: All good.

            I really liked having a few small prime lenses for MFT. It's more hassle changing lenses so doesn't suit everyone, but they were absolutely tiny, performed well, including of course having large apertures so better for combating the platforms weaknesses i.e. good at low light and giving shallower DOF (e.g. Panasonic 20 f1.7, 42.5 f1.7).

            I kind of regret selling all my MFT gear…

            But honestly all cameras are good these days and it just matters what your priorities and budget are.

          • +1

            @confidantduk: Basically I just look at equivalents. Instead of a nifty fifty, there's a couple of really good 25mm lenses (I paid about $130 for a panasonic 25mm f1.7). The actually selling point to me was the 12-40mm f/2.8, a comparable 24-70mm f/2.8 on any platform costs at least twice as much. Yes, I get a bit more noise and the difference in depth of field, but I have a used em1, 25mm f/1.7, 50mm f/1.8 and 12-40mm f/2.8 and it cost me a little over $1,000.

            That's where budget comes in, IMO. MFT gives a great bang for buck with a lightweight system, which suited me a lot. But there's definitely downsides.

  • I have a 70d. If buying now, I would buy mirrorless canon, simply due to availability of lenses. Hope your pockets are deep if you are wanting full frame, large aperture lenses.

    • okay, do mirrorless have large-aperture lenses? (ready for you to tell me this was a stupid qn)

      • Fuji actually have an F1.0 lens… I think Sony's fastest is the new 50mm F1.2 but that's $3k

      • Yes, look at Sony, canon and Nikon for their mirrorless options. All have a full array of lenses, and can be adapted from their legacy lenses (from memory).

  • +2

    unless you have professional demands for fast sports shoots or blowing up prints for exhibition over 2m sized, the 4/3rds system is plenty enough - lots of examples of the good output quality and reviews of user-friendly interface (Panasonic Lumix, Olympus mostly) online. The micro 4/3rd lenses are great, hard to find a dud in the Panasonic/Leica and Olympus ranges, the price is usually right, and the lense size usually significantly smaller/lighter than usual DSLR ones. Still using fast lenses, some primes, f1.7 and up, all sharp and compact, on bodies such as Pana GH5, GX85, GX7, GM5, and (on loan) Olympus E-M5iii, M1 (fast/good enough for big prints of basketball matches under lights, if that helps). Have used (regular) DSLRs Nikon D7500 and D5600, both great - but also heavier, bigger, and some nice lenses are more expensive/bulkier than micro4/3rds systems. fwiw,

    • noice, good context, thanks!

      • On this, there is a video where a guy is printing out photos from a m4/3 camera and a full frame - at a pretty decent size and asks the printer to guess which camera produced which image and the printer can't tell a difference in the quality.

  • +1

    DSLR Advice, Which Should I Buy?

    Canon

    • +3

      Nikon FTW ;)

  • I'd be looking at the second hand market. So many people buy expensive cameras then never use them and sell them later on. Personally I like Fujifilm Mirrorless cameras, light, great choice of lens either Fuji or third party and excellent colour rendition. Its all about the lens quality, I also have a 7.1mp Panasonic camera with a Leica lens that's pin sharp and rivals my 24mp Fuji….

  • My son went through a Canon (hated them) and then Nikon (couldn't love it) DSLR before settling on the Sony A7 II (some letter after the II) and would not ever go back to either Canon or Nikon (well he said maybe Nikon if he had too) The resolution of the Sony is miles ahead of either of the other two and when he purchased, it was the only mirrorless from the 3.

    His website with his work is here: https://ethanbrooke.com as well as links to his other websites taken with the aforementioned Sony.

    • +1

      Excellent photos!

      • Thanks you I will tell him, all A7 IIR (I think) he has just ordered the A7 4R to upgrade.

      • Indeed. What lens does he use, out of curiosity?

    • +2

      Must be Canon and Nikon fanbois negging you. Here, have an upvote from me.

      • +2

        Have an upvote back :-)

  • Another m4/3 user here.
    Definitely get a mirrorless system. Don’t get a dslr.

    Remember a full frame mirrorless camera will have massive lenses. The sensor size dictates the size of the lens.

    For amateurs, m4/3 is the play. Get whatever body your budget can afford and a couple of 1.7/1.8 primes as a start. Definitely the 45mm, and maybe the 20mm or 17mm. Longer focal lengths will give you better bokeh.

    • Wondering if the longer focal lens would mean more camera shake? Guess this is where IBIS comes in eh πŸ€”

  • -1

    Okay, thanks y'all! My needs clearly fall into the MFT bucket πŸŽ‰ Affordable, light, ability to bokeh effectively despite the extra noise.

    I guess now's the bit where I've gotta figure out which kit to get moving forward πŸ€” Olympus? Panasonic? Fuji? (are the lenses interchangeable between them?)

    My hands aren't steady so advice on how to mitigate that (cam with better IBIS accessories that make it better would be an option too πŸ’‘)

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