Best Return for Car Disposal

It's finally time to bite the bullet and get rid of my beloved 1990 Mazda 626. It's mechanically sound, and by that I mean it hasn't ever broken down or stalled on me, but all things that are not the engine running are barely working. I've had it for 7 years, and I learned to drive in it. It's not been my daily driver for 3-4 years, but it's only done 125k km so it's had a reasonable life.

The faults consist of;
Speedo/Odometer not working (Faulty speed sensor)
Front Passenger electric window not functional (Loose connection)
AC doesn't work (lol)
Driver door doesn't lock/unlock (Door card physically blocks latch)
Door cards are broken (And held on by wood screws!)
Front passenger door has key broken in lock (Because of the damage to the key from the damaged driver door lock)
And much more!

So in short, I've held on to it for sentimental reasons but with the rego renewal coming in the mail at a higher price, it's time to say goodbye.

Given the current used car market being cooked, I reckon I could actually dump it on Carsales and get maybe $500ish, but I would feel genuinely bad offloading such an unroadworthy vehicle to someone who is in the market for a cheap car.
In a perfect world, I'd slowly sell it as parts, (Did you know the electric window control alone is $150?) but it would take a decade and I have nowhere I can physically store it.

What do you think is going to get the most return for disposing of it?
Drive it to a scrap yard? Find a "We will take your car from you" type of business? Trick someone into buying it?

Comments

  • +1

    Lol, you won't even get back the listing fee out of it on car sales, the list price are delusional. Best chance if you have the space is to break it and sell parts but that's still a long stretch, mazda 626 is hardly a collectable item anyway.
    that $150 electric window controller you're dreaming of selling is for some late 2000s car not a 30+ year old crapbox.

    • +2

      Oh no, the $150 electric window controller was what I had to pay for the part to get mine replaced in this vehicle 4ish years ago. The alternative was driving in Brisbane summer without aircon or an open window and that seemed like a terrible idea.

      Edit: I am aware I may have been taken for a ride, but such is the nature of buying 30y/o components. They're hens teeth these days.

      • Components are rare as hens teeth… And so are the people who want them! I'm not sure you could sell a whole 1990 626 for "parts".

    • +2

      Carsales is free under $5000.

    • Cash in whats left of the registration and insurnace and get a car wrecker to take it away (if you are lucky)

  • +2

    Gumtree.

    As is. Where is.

    Cash.

    First in best dressed.

    $250.

    Prepare to be screwed down to $100.

    Take the $100 and run.

    • +3

      The companies that pick up your car and pay you cash for it will give me $100, at which point I would avoid Gumtree buyers entirely :D

      • Ring more wreckers. One wrecker offered me $350 and another $400 for my old Camry. Ended up selling it privately for $600.

        • I assume as the Camry is more common, it's worth more as parts, but I'll give a ring around to see how we go.

          • @Sleeqb7: You will need to drive it to the wrecker to get the most, having them come pick it up was only $150 and $175.
            Having said that, the used car market is still stupid in Melbourne and people are paying ridiculous amounts for piles of junk.

            • @mapax: Driving it there would be fine, it's registered for another month.

              And yeah, how absurdly priced the used market is lead me to even posting the thread. A few years ago junkers would have been the only option for a couple hundred, nowadays maybe not.

    • +3

      I'd also be calling a couple of wreckers to get them to pick it up. Saves having to deal with people. Who knows what you get.

      Just make sure you retain the rego plate to whoever you sell it to.

  • grab chain, chain car to pole
    turn around count to 10
    maybe 15
    car gets stolen

    disposed!

    • +1

      Given the area in which I work, this could be a surefire way.

      Would it go even quicker if I put a 'For Sale' sign on it?

      • Make sure to have a high insurance value before doing so

  • +3

    If you want it to continue to be used in someway, maybe list on forums for $1500 shitbox challenge/ farm vehicles.
    If the motor is healthy I'm certain someone would be interested for either of these, and would be happy to pick up from you.

    Would additionally be great to see your car try make its way across Oz, whilst raising money for charity.

    • That's a good point, I was hoping that I could participate in one of those rallies with the car, but it never eventuated. I don't see any forums on their site, any recommendations for reaching out?

      • FB would be a good place to start.

  • +1

    Call around to a few of the cash 4 cars scrap yards and see how much they'll pay. You might be surprised with what they offer.

  • A scrap yard will pay around 400 for a complete car if you deliver it.

    • This is a new revelation to me. I'll have a look in to this, cheers.

  • +1

    Am I still on OzB?

    Why has OP not thought of insurance fraud and driving it into a lake, or getting their mate to steal it whilst they turn the other way.

    You people have changed…

    • Don't get me wrong, I've thought of it, however I've definitely only got 3rd party insurance on the car, as the excess on any comprehensive insurance would far outweigh the car's value.

    • And no one has referred to bikies?!?

  • +3

    Aside from the speedo the other things don’t sound like it’s ‘unroadworthy’ just a few inconveniences.

    Someone may buy it if it drives ok. Try scumtree/faceache for $700 and see how you go.

    You’ve got a few options. The ones that will give you the biggest return will cost you time.

    • The driver seatbelt, although still secure, is damaged, which is an immediate roadworthy fail in QLD. The Speedo is actually not an issue because I have a GPS one stuck to the dash instead.

      However given the age of the car, and my lack of mechanical knowledge, I can't say what else may be considered an issue, however I'd be very surprised if the issues stopped at the seatbelt. During my last service, my mechanic was very clear about the reality that it's basically on life support, but being cheerful in my ignorance I didn't ask for info, so long as it was still safe to drive I wasn't particularly concerned. However since that time the car was loaned to a friend who was in an accident that, potentially could have caused some structural damage (Although it doesn't appear that way).
      Again, living in ignorance.

      • A wrecker seatbelt is an easy fix for someone who is comfortable working with cars.

        You didn’t mention the accident damage before, but if it still drives OK you might find a buyer.

        • Yeah, I've swapped out the seatbelt previously.

          It does indeed drive okay. Just as well as it always has, appears to be simply cosmetic damage, bumper dent and slight misshapen bumper.

          But it does reduce my confidence a little is all.

  • +4

    If you sell it to a wrecker beware of the scams - they will agree to say $500 AS IS on the phone, then they will come and load it onto your truck and say that they can only give you $300 because its got dents/leaks oil or some other BS reason. By that point they want you to just give in and agree. Always get the money BEFORE they load it.

  • +1

    Doesn't sound too unworthy, particularly if it is mechanically sound.

    Whatever listed can be left unfixed, or fixed cheaply.

    Suspect replacing whatever you need to fix will be in the hundreds… Once fixed, shouldn't be an issue selling for $1000~ anything that moves with rego oes for $1000~ these days. Just be honest with the buyer

    Edit - nevermind, your list of "issues" seems to be ever growing with comments you have made in this thread. Ask for $500 from scrapper, cash before handing over the car… Get whatever you from rego/green slip/3rd party after deregiatering.

    • Yeah, I thought the post would have enough to demonstrate why I have decided it's scrap-worthy rather than road-worthy, so I didn't go into all the things wrong with it. Drives great, doesn't so much else well.
      For example, the front right indicator holds water. It works perfectly well, but it's also an aquarium. That's frustrating because it's aftermarket, the OG one on the left side is water-free.

      And then there was a time I got it serviced and the mechanic said that there is "We need to keep an eye on the engine mount" in an ominous tone…

      If I can get $500 for scrap, I'll be happy with that. :)

      • +1

        Is this a troll post?

        Is the next issue to be posted - engine oil replaced with a fine blend of olive oil and butter, but still runs fine.

        • The onboard aquarium doesn't affect the car's ability to indicate, and the engine hasn't fallen out yet!
          But yeah, the fact that it doesn't have functional issues when it comes to actually driving from A to B doesn't make it a particularly roadworthy car.

          It's why I titled the post 'disposal' instead of 'sale', haha

          • @Sleeqb7: Just drill a few 2mm holes on the bottom edge and the indicator is fixed.

            • +2

              @mapax: But then where do I keep the fish?

              • @Sleeqb7: I don’t know, fish ain’t my area of expertise, in your pocket?

  • Went through this with an old 1994 Corolla. It was still functional and registered and contemplated giving it away, but was worried about someone having and accident, with the lack of safety features. Sold for scrap for $500 cash, they picked it up. The driver that came was shocked we got that much but that was pre-pandemic pricing.

  • +2

    If you are not worried about the couple of hundred bucks you'd get from a wrecker etc, think about contacting your local high school and donate it to their year 11/12 job prep or experience workshops, be great for them to work on, track faults, prepare maybe for a group project to donate to a really needy family. Win win for everyone. If your local high school is not interest check you nearest TAFE

  • +1

    Get quotes from first 10 result for “scrap metal car” is what i did. Huge difference from lowest $700 to highest $1300. The 2 offering best prices were Metro Car Removal and Great Western Auto Dismantlers. Good luck

  • Hmm… Strange, but these kind of cars are becoming popular again in the JDM scene. Might want to see FB groups for current prices. Listing it on eBay no reserve could be good. Sold a wrecked Festiva on there and got a good price.

    • I have been watching the prices for this car for years, just as a curiosity and never expecting it to increase, but have recently seen units listed with 200k km for $5k+. Surely this is just the market being absolutely ruined and not people actually seeking out these cars?

      I mean, there is likely very few people on the planet that are Alfred Morris;
      https://insidemazda.mazdausa.com/drivers-life/my-mazda-my-st….

      • Rare, desirable or not that seem to indicate you can get well north of $500 scrap value with a little effort.

      • Well, they look like around the same era as r31 skyline and the Cressida etc. There's also a rare turbo diesel version. Certain Mazda engines have their fans. So depends what engine it has and the model. Rwd models are probably desirable.

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