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TP-Link AV2000 Gigabit Passthrough Powerline Starter Kit $137.40 Shipped @ Harris Technology Amazon AU

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Not the cheapest of all time but cheapest in a while and also free shipping on Amazon. AUS plugs
TL-PA9020P Kit

Description:

  • HomePlug AV2 standard compliant, high-speed data transfer rates of up to 2000Mbps1, supports all your online needs
  • 2X2 MIMO with Beamforming establishes multiple simultaneous connections for you to enjoy higher powerline speeds and greater stability
  • 2 gigabit ports create secure wired networks for desktops, smart TVs or games consoles
  • Integrated power socket ensures no power outlet goes to waste

edit:
as @theoaus mentioned you can find it on ebay cheaper using the code MCPAY10V3 at $128.80 shipped
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/718553 or https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252768943769

edit2:
new ebay ozbargain post link now at $117.64 shipped using afterpay code AFPAYDAY
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/719663 or same ebay link above

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.

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closed Comments

    • +26

      My TP-Link AV1000 work great. Rock solid, slower than wireless but much more stable. People renting can't cable the house.

      Also useful for people who use Linux to avoid dealing with shitty wifi support.

      • +6

        Also useful for people who use Linux to avoid dealing with shitty wifi support.

        Amen. Not everyone's Internet usage is limited to TikToking.

      • -6

        shitty everything support. I wanted to like Linux i really did.

        • +3

          That's like saying you hate vegetables.

          There's about 1000 types of Linux.

          Including some that border on plagiarism for macOS and Winderp.

          • @Telios: He wanted to like vegetables but carrots just didn't do it for him.

        • Not a matter of liking it or not, I need it for my job.

      • -8

        People renting can't cable the house.

        You can run cable up through roof vents and then across inside the ceiling, or out windows and along the outside of the house.

        If the floor is wooden you can pull the carpet away from the wall slightly and drill a small hole where needed to poke a cable through and go under.

        I even ran a cable up inside a no-longer used chimney once :)

        • +4

          Or you could just use ethernet over power. It is a very workable solution.

      • If you could just spend 20% of the cost of this and get a compatible wifi adapter

    • +6

      I have used an ancient pair for over a decade and they have been a godsend, not all of us own our own homes.

    • +5

      Some houses just simply can't be easily. Wireless Mesh isn't always a better better option.

    • This is so much better than Wireless, you're delusional.

    • I actually asked a sparky about this while doing my current house. It costs several thousand to do a house properly with patch panel, conduit, plates, cat7 cable.

      I've been using these for years and they work quite well. I mainly need it connect a few switches together and I usually get about 500 Mbit from the AVR-2000 ones.

      It's fine for things like Netflix, connecting up media servers, NAS etc. The only place I think it *might' be an issue is gaming latency and for that a gigabit or better wired connection should be better.

      For the WIFI I did update to a mesh system (Google Nest). So the split in my house (3 levels) is:
      1. Wifi: 70%
      2. Wired via switches and powerline: 30%.

      I do connect my main switch and my NBN modem (different room) using the AVR2000. I'm on the fastest NBN plan and get about 400 MBps regularly.

      • I've used these in several rentals for gaming. They don't add much latency, far less than wifi.

  • -6

    For 138 bucks, just buy a router with wifi repeater or sparkies charge 150 a data point.. plus some showing up charges this that

  • +2

    These do work well, however I’d avoid if you have any audio gear on the same circuit, as they do add a noticeable buzz/hum through speakers and headphones. It gets even worse when there’s a network load on them.

    • +2

      My TV, soundbar and subwoofer are all connected through the power pass through. No noticeable hum through any of their speakers, but you probably mean more sensitive audio equipment.

      • +3

        I should’ve specified, I meant other power points on the same circuit. The pass through power on the units seem to have decent filtering for the noise. A decent AV power board would probably solve this but I’m yet to find a decently priced one.

        • Ah fair enough, makes more sense

  • -1

    These things are a vibe

  • +10

    These are great but they are wide, so you can't use the outlet next to it, meaning if you don't have many powerpoints, you're going to have to think carefully about placement. They do have passthrough as you can see in the picture but the weight of plugging another cable in will slightly pull them out of the wall, leaving the metal prongs exposed. To stop this, I created a little 'nubbin' out of masking tape to keep them flush to the wall, but I feel these two points are a very strong design flaw. My house has very few outlets so even though I have 4 of these, I only use 2, one at the router, another at my tv and consoles. Annoyingly I can't use it to hardwire my tv to the network as there seems to be constant small dropouts which I don't notice on my gaming console or computer, but which totally wreck streaming on my TV and an annoying message keeps appearing on the tele to tell me the network has dropped out, so that's back to the WIFI as well.

    Also while using them with my PC creates a significant hum on my computer speakers, which super sucks as this is the only powerpoint I can use for them without having a 25m cable throughout the house. So my PC is also on WIFI now.

    In hindsite, whilst they've worked great for me, I wouldn't buy again, I'd upgrade to a good wireless mesh network instead.

    • +4

      In fact after typing all that, I think i'm going to dig up the boxes and sell them on ebay.

      • Wireless doesn't work for online gaming, ping is all over the place

        • +1

          Well, don't tell my kid that. He's quite a good valorant player on my PC and it's wifi all the way.

          15yrs ago there was no doubt that was the truth though but it seems to have gotten a lot better.

        • +1

          Unless you're using a cheap/old router, have heaps of interference or a defective piece of equipment, wireless is fine. Wireless is so fine now days you can use it to eliminate the cable between VR headsets and your computer and play PCVR games - but again, using a halfway decent router.

    • I've got this set and I don't have any issues with it pulling out with something plugged into the pass through.

    • I bought a 30cm power extension and rested mine on top of the tv unit for the same reason, instead of hangin from the wall. It's a solvable problem.

      No hum for my speakers. That's indicative of a badly designed motherboard/blown fuses/average psu etc more than anything else.

      • If that was true the humming wouldn't go away when I don't use the powerline adaptor.

        • This is incorrect. Mild interference may be occuring, but that's extremely normal in an electrical environment. Fridges, microwaves, all sorts cause interference. A decently designed audio device is/should be capable of rejecting it. As you are capable of returning your adaptors if they're faulty .

          • @[Deactivated]: Sorry, that gave me a good laugh.

            First it was my badly designed pc, which you don't have any details about, and now it's my badly designed audio device? Which you also don't have any details about? Right. Thanks so much for the help. Any other takes on what the issue is while you know nothing about the details?

            All I'm doing is reporting my experience with these over several years.

            And I can tell you it's very correct that the noise disappears when I don't use the power line adaptor so you don't really need to be a genius to work out the issue. I have 4 adaptors by the way. I guess they're all broken huh?

            It is possible that my old houses wiring is not helping, but this has been my experience and I hope it helps others with their decision.

            • @Sxio: Australian standards require devices should not cause interference and should accept interference caused so, literally, yes.

              If you tried 4 adaptors and they all caused issues, the common factor is your computer. Ergo, it was most likely which device causing issues? Cope.

              • @[Deactivated]: Hahaha yeah sure bro. I must be plugging it into the wall incorrectly.

  • Better to buy a mesh system at this price

    • +3

      …no.

    • +9

      Rather than just say mesh is better at this price. Suggest some models around this price. I am sure other people would like to know as well. Lets get some conversations going.

      • +1

        At this price point you don't have a lot of choice. Pretty much get whatever is a good price on Ozbargain. $30 more for the recent TP-Link one, which will perform much better for most people.

      • +3

        I got a Mercusys Halo 30G (3 nodes) for $99 and it has been working flawlessly. Maxing out a 250M nbn connection with 5ms ping. Never had a dropout or "handover" issue.

      • +1

        https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/717094

        or a bit more for the deco m5.

    • +1

      Mesh is ultimately a flawed technology. At the end of the day the APs need to share the same channel. A much better solution is EoP with some ubiquiti APs. Then if you eventually go cabled you can cable them up.

      • -1

        please explain why it’s flawed, i think you don’t understand how the channels work.

        If a wireless service is congested in a particular channel it doesn’t matter if it’s mesh or not, even a single wireless AP/rounter will be affected

        • For all the APs to communicate they have to ALL be on the same channel. They can't switch channels to send/receive. If you have a unit with 3 radios then you can have 1 channel for meshing but all the APs still need to be on that channel for the mesh radio. For a wired group of APs putting multiple APs on the same channel would be considered a terrible design, but for mesh it is normal. A lot of the units though only have 2 radios, so for 5GHz they all need to be on the same channel, for 5GHz at least.

          Then there's the problem the radios need to be close enough to each other to communicate with each other. For wired APs you'd normally put them further apart. So you end up with APs closer together all communicating on a common channel. This makes the hidden client problem even worse, plus of course interference

          Then you've got the speed reduction side of things too. End of the day wired uplink is a lot better.

    • +2

      Could use these for a wired backhaul for the mesh system

    • +2

      Mesh is NOT always a good option. Too many factors that need to be weighed up before making such a sweeping generalisation imho.

  • +4

    These are big and mostly render the plug next door useless, but they work pretty well

    • I've it plugged into this double adapter
      https://shop.coles.com.au/a/national/product/coles-adaptor-d…

      • They are meant to be plugged directly into the wall.

        • +1

          I've also used them in powerboards, and they seem to work well, until you have bulk flow through the rest of the board. Then they tend to drop down in speed (orange indicator light), not tested speeds because I haven't plugged them in to anything that can speed test

        • It makes absolutely no difference

        • +3

          Powerline works mostly fine on powerboards and double adapters.

          Filtered powerboards and surge protected powerboards can reduce throughput, but I've never noticed that in practice.

          Things that do kill powerline:

          • ANY wallwart or PWM power supply (laptop or PC) that is "close" to the powerline adapter (0.5 to 1m say). PWM noise murders the network - drop outs and intermittency. Not a problem if the wallwart is on the pass through circuit, as the filters sorts the noise out. My solution to this is to hang all of the PWM devices on a power board on the pass through.

          • Communication between circuits on the power board. Our system has the main router on one circuit, and two other subnets on another. One subnet gets 600Mbps, the other longer run 200Mbs. Latency is neglible, and works fine for streaming and other browsing.

          We run with this as wifi gets significant drop off in our place.

          Provided you do the work on eliminating noisy power supplies, powerline is incredibly reliable and plug and play. That said, I have forgotten about this rule several times over the years, and it has always cost days to debug!

  • What's the latency like compared to a mesh system for example?

    • +1

      Better.

      • +3

        Very unlikely. AC or AX is very low latency with a stable connection. This will have higher latency and jitter for sure.

        I am guessing you have Power line at home. Just ping your gateway address for a few minutes and you will see the jitter.

        • +1

          Had it years ago, no problems with it. Was getting 20ms at most usually. Worth noting that latency and jitter will depend on many factors (quality of wiring, length of runs, appliances connected).

    • +1

      Not sure what mesh systems can give you but in terms of latency I get 26ms on Rocket league servers via hfc nbn (ps5 - switch - eop - router - hfc modem. Haven't tested ps5 over wireless.

      • +4

        That’s your ping for the internet. They asked about mesh vs EoP, so comparing the internal ping.

        • True, but latency is a part of that figure, with HFC and a direct Ethernet connection I can't imagine the ping would be much lower than 19ms, so max 5ms ping to router.

          WiFi latency isn't bad (Min 4ms ping to router using 802.11ax via phone from the room with the eop adapter), but it jumps around a lot (generally up to 50ms sometimes 100ms) even though the 5ghz channel is completely free of other wireless networks. (and not using other wireless devices or microwave etc) (at around - 71dBm)

          But it's pretty much useless using other peoples data to determine if EOP is right for you because of the difference between the power line path and WiFi signal between premises.

  • +3

    Great product, recommend checking the height of your power outlet from the floor as in some cases they may not fit

    • +2

      I've one plugged into a 1m extension cord like this

      https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-1m-piggy-back-extension-le…

      • +2

        As above, not recommended. May work, but not recommended.

        • -1

          It will work. It seems that lots of people don't understand how this device works.

          • +3

            @mrau: It clearly says in the documentation not to do that, so I guess the engineers don't understand either?

            • @Sxio: I use a short extension cable on mine as my TV outlet was too low to the ground. Works ok.

              • +2

                @Lodan: Same. I used to leave it plugged directly on the wall until read a comment on whirlpool about this short extension. Tried and it worked perfectly fine. No speed degradation or any issue.

            • +4

              @Sxio: Thanks for your coment @sxio. I'm an engineer who used to design these devices before the homeplug standard was even created. Anything that's plugged into power has the potential to affect the functioning of the device, that's just the nature of electrical power lines at home. Lots of interference. It will work best if only homeplug devices are plugged in and working, but that's unrealistic, of course. Companies making homeplug devices have every reason to offer advice that could help the device work better. Keeping the install "clean", with no extensions and potentially hidden filters, is a logical advice, especially since they can't be sure if you're using a "clean" extension cord, for instance. My comment that "it will work" stands, and it's not hard to assess if your arrangement is detrimental.

              Done a quick Google search, and I thought top results offer sensible articles, such as this one:

              https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/basics/lanwan-basics/32769-h…

              • @mrau: Nice! Thanks for the well written reply, I learned a few things!

  • How are these compared to the deco m5 mesh from yesterday's deal? https://www.ozbargain.com.au/goto/718365

    • +2

      If you can get a good wifi connection there is no reason to go Powerline.

      • +1

        I switched from wifi to powerline (this set) for online gaming.
        Too much jitter on wifi, presumably because of how collision avoidance works.

        • +2

          Powerline also has collision avoidance as it's a shared medium. A wifi setup with beamforming and or dedicated backhaul can probably get better performance, but always will depend on the local environment

        • +1

          I assume you didn't have a good wifi connection. Should only be 1-2ms of jitter with a good wifi connection. Powerline makes sense in that situation.

          • +1

            @Aureus: Yeah, it was fairly saturated since was in a share house with a ton of devices. Was nice to have my own wired link since couldn't install Ethernet cabling since it was a rental.

    • These are an entirely different product with a different purpose.

  • I tried these years ago and they were bad, have they improved much?

    These Orbi routers are trash, not keen to spend another few hundred replacing them maybe these would help

    • I ran AVR500 for years and the AVR2000 are about 2-3 times faster.

  • Y’all ever tried sharing internet between neighbours on the same phase with this?

    • is that even possible?

      i dont think two houses can be on the same phase?

      • +1

        I think they are talking about making a mesh with two independent routers sharing the same SSIDs and channels I'm assuming.

        Which makes no sense since most home routers act as DHCP servers…

        • No not wireless, hard wired through power wires through your meter to the pit to your next door neighbours house

      • There are only three phases, so depends how your street is wired.

      • Of course it’s possible lots of neighbours share the same phase out of the pit/pole, depends on the setup I’ve connected neighbours on same phase.

    • +2

      If you're sharing electricity with your neighbours it'll work… I actually share my WiFi my my in laws that live in an apartment above us using a wifi extender… It's not great but suits their needs.

    • I think it will be unlikely to work as they don't go that far. You're neighbours would need to be very close.

      • +1

        Yup - distance attenuation kills with these things. I lose ~80% of available bandwidth going from one circuit to another in my place - probably a 30m run. Going to the neighbours would be another 60m or so, plus interference from everyone else on the phase. Might be a signal, but it'll probably be ADSL or dialup level.

        Might work well in flat/apartment setup where meter boxes are close together.

        • And I think this is by design. If they can limit the distance it will limit interference with other users. A wireless think would be the way to go. Mikrotik and Ubiquiti have some pretty cheap wireless bridge stuff.

          • @MikeKulls: Very intentional - encryption on these things is not great, so limited transmission is good. It's also the same communication channel that things like EV chargers use to talk with energy management systems, so again, you probably don't want interference with other users.

  • Anyone had speed issues with thsese when the solar inverter is in the grid?

    • No, I have the AV1200 and AV600 both works fine with Solar on single phase (if that even matters).

      • Thank you! May be mine was faulty

  • +4

    $128.80 here and here with coupon MCPAY10V3

  • 10% Price beat at Bunnings

  • +2

    Paid a dollar more for the one sold by Amazon AU just for the potential easy return

  • +1

    These are good, they can jump circuits in your house fairly effectively.
    I did have an issue with them that at least once every month or two, they would de-sync and I would have to spend 5 minutes re-syncing them.
    Otherwise they were honestly pretty flawless, I have a fairly variable voltage on my property, its possible that fluctuations were knocking them around.
    As others have noted they are also huge, use a double adapter or something to save your points.

  • 802.11ax WiFi has made powerline Ethernet adapters redundant in most places. Not to mention that powerline adapters aren't foolproof either. Electrical wiring can be incredibly complex in some places, drastically reducing bandwidth. Most people are better served with a decent WiFi mesh network.

    • +2

      But they just aren't.

      WiFi Mesh Networks cost more and more difficult to setup, also they tend to have interference issues with smart home devices.
      Wireless is susceptible to interference.
      WiFi might be faster (in some cases), but it isn't as stable no matter what you do - You almost never get the advertised speeds of WiFi (Ironically the same goes here for these to be fair).

      • That's because electrical power lines are a terrible medium for data communication with extreme levels of interference in some cases. Any device connected to power in your home interferes to summer degree. It is a miracle how much has been achieved with home plug devices, and they're good

    • That still relies on your devices having good WiFi interfaces which is very rarely guaranteed.

    • +1

      Here is my complete list of all devices in my house that support 802.11ax WiFi:

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