How to Ventilate Bathroom

Ash-Say on 31/08/2022 - 19:30

My apartment's bathroom has no window so there is ongoing struggle to keep it mould free.

It was freshly painted last year and added mould defender but it appears it's not going to help.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/protite-75ml-mould-defender-pain…

They have done stupid wiring for ceiling fan and light. The exhaust fan only turns on when the light is switched on which means you can't leave the exhaust fan alone. There is also dryer/washing machine in one corner this bathroom which add further pain.

I will really appreciate some tips to get this issue rectified permanently.

Home & Garden

Comments

  • BlackorRed on 31/08/2022 - 19:34
    +15

    You have to call electrician to change the switch that split into fan and light switch.

    • Ash-Say on 31/08/2022 - 19:35
      +1

      I think this alone won't resolve the issue.

      • BlackorRed on 31/08/2022 - 19:38
        +9

        the only way to be mold-free is to have the exhaust fan on all the time you have shower or dryer cos that is also the same way i have at home (no windows), I don't have mold issue there anymore

        • Ash-Say on 31/08/2022 - 20:01

          Considering it's strata managed unit, will they replace the light with an IXL integrated fan/light/heater or the responsibility sits with me? For avoidance of doubt, exhaust fan is at one corner whereas light is in the middle of bathroom.

          • [Deactivated] on 31/08/2022 - 20:20
            +4

            @Ash-Say: Confirm with your strata manager however exhaust fans will more than likely be an owner's responsibility as they are for your use and benefit only

          • AndyC1 on 31/08/2022 - 20:44
            +2

            @Ash-Say: The landlord is responsible for the light/fan.

          • zeomega on 01/09/2022 - 16:29
            +21

            @Ash-Say: This is abit of a work around. If your light is a bayonet or edison type light etc. Buy a wifi/zigbee/ikea/hue smart light. Then turn it off with smart switch.

            Fan on, light off.

            • Guerilla89 on 02/09/2022 - 08:22
              +1

              @zeomega: I'm surprised by this solution even though it's probably right. It just seems odd that a bluetooth device radio constantly listening for an "on" signal could use less power than a cheaper LED light.

              • [Deactivated] on 02/09/2022 - 21:04
                +1

                @Guerilla89: Bluetooth etc can run on battery for months. Even the wifi bulbs which are much less power efficient use much about 1/5th to 1/10th as much as an LED bulb 'on'.

            • JustinHardie on 02/09/2022 - 12:48

              @zeomega: This is the way

            • Jackson on 02/09/2022 - 18:05
              +2

              @zeomega: MVP right here. Everyone thinking that the landlord is going to fix this roblem are kidding themselves.

          • drfuzzy on 01/09/2022 - 19:23
            -1

            @Ash-Say: Internal bathroom exhaust fans have nothing to do with strata!
            It's an issue for the owner.

            • Jackson on 02/09/2022 - 18:06

              @drfuzzy: Actually it depends on if it was an original fitting, at least that's the case with all other bathroom fittings

          • Hangryuman on 02/09/2022 - 12:42
            +2

            @Ash-Say: 'Considering it's strata managed unit, will they replace the light with an IXL integrated fan/light/heater'

            No.

            'the responsibility sits with me?'

            if you are the owner - yes. If you are a tenant - try asking your agent/landlord - lol.

        • netjock on 01/09/2022 - 09:06
          +1

          Can confirm in an apartment I co own with the bank. There is a 24/7 inline exhaust fan that is connected to a duct that runs through the building.

          Two possibilities for OP. If there is a duct within the roof then connect to the duct to take the air out.

          I have also seen in the UK systems that use a duct or take air from another room and push it gently in to create (negative pressure) so the air is pushed out of the room.

          • zeomega on 01/09/2022 - 16:27

            @netjock: Mould in the rest of the house instead. YAY!

            • netjock on 01/09/2022 - 16:36

              @zeomega: No necessarily. This unit

              It takes air from pretty much an outside source and pumps it through the house. There is apartment versions.

              Assuming rest of your house is ventilated but you never know, people might never open their doors and windows.

          • Hangryuman on 02/09/2022 - 12:48

            @netjock: 'There is a 24/7 inline exhaust fan that is connected to a duct that runs through the building.'

            it can vary.

            I have seen that in a high-rise residential strata complex - a fresh-air system that blows 24x7 low volume pressure from a roof fan, with fire dampers to automatically close if the heat-fusible link is melted by the heat of a fire.

            another complex has a 24x7 extractor fan at low speed from the bathroom

            another complex has as OP described - extractor fan wired to the light switches of windowless bathrooms and/or laundries - as required by design rules at the time of construction.

      • iDroid on 31/08/2022 - 20:00
        +4

        Perhaps a pedestal fan circulating air and blowing it out the room?

      • LFO on 01/09/2022 - 12:16

        I think this alone won't resolve the issue.

        One easy and simple test will be to LEAVE light and fan running all the time for a few days, 24/7, just to corroborate if there is an improvement or not.

        My gut feeling is that it will solve the problem unless the fan is blocked, it is too small or is not working properly.

        Bathrooms with no windows are not new (think hotels) so ventilation is a well known condition.

    • bcarp on 31/08/2022 - 21:39
      +9

      I think that's against the building code (but I don't know if the building code still applies once the building has been built, or whether it only applies at time of building). Internal bathrooms without a window require the fan to turn on automatically when the light is turned on. However, there's no rule about turning the fan off when the light turns off, so you can wire up something to allow the fan to turn off, say, 10 minutes after the light turns off. That's what we have in our windowless bathroom (and in fact in all our bathrooms)

      • blwnhr on 01/09/2022 - 08:59
        +5

        100% bcarp is correct, you cannot separate the light and fan as the room isn't fitted with an openable window.

        The building was built to a code and you cannot make it non-compliant. Any new work and alterations must be to the current code. Most trades would not do the work because it's going against the building code.

        Add a run-on timer to start with. But, is the fan directly over the steam source (bath/shower)? If not, have a fan put there, capture it before it expands into the room and starts condensing on surfaces.

        Also make sure the ductwork is clear. Most fans are fitted with dust shutters, make sure these are clean and clear, also make sure the blades of the fan are clean. And build-up of fluff and dust will significantly affect the extraction performance.

        • Russ on 03/09/2022 - 08:56

          Why not add a second switch, that switches between the incoming power and the light circuit, with the output going to the fan? All wall switch mechanisms have a second input.

          It'll be a little confusing, but use sticky labels to denote the switch positions as "fan always on" and "fan automatic".

          Note that the electrician may have to run a new wire from the light switch to the fan, as the fan may be directly wired to the light fitting.

          If you're intending to always leave the fan on, it's probably better to fit a completely new switch plate for the second switch, above the existing switch plate. That way you won't accidentally turn off the wrong switch as you leave the bathroom. And if desired, you can also fit a neon indicator lamp to the new switch plate, to indicate "fan on". Neon indicator lamps use so little power they won't even turn the measuring wheel in older-style power meters!

        • kongkurr on 03/09/2022 - 15:11

          In contrast to the above posts, there is no umbrella building code clause stating you cannot switch fan and light separately in a bathroom, in both Class 1 (domestic houses) and Class 2 (apartments).

          There are ventilation requirements, and artificial lighting requirements, neither of which must be linked to the same control switch.

          Unless you've read, and can quote a clause in the NCC BCAs, or a relevant AS standard, you shouldn't be giving out incorrect advice. Engineer's site spec does not make it 'building code', nor does common belief.

      • BBQChip on 01/09/2022 - 10:08
        +1

        We had to replace an exhaust in our toilet recently and discovered this building code. Unless you have a window, you must switch the light and fan together. You can't separate them.

        OP could consider a larger exhaust fan but they can get noisy. We just had to buy a larger fan and we got Bunnings "Manrose" brand - it sounds like a jet engine lol. We are lucky - I had the electrician switch ours to separate switches because our toilet has a window. I'd suggest OP buy a few of those Hippo dehumidifier tubs. Mop or squeegee down shower after use. Clean walls regularly with Oil of Cloves solution.

    • HeWhoKnows on 01/09/2022 - 19:24
      +6

      QUOTE: "They have done stupid wiring for ceiling fan and light.
      The exhaust fan only turns on when the light is switched on which means you can't leave the exhaust fan alone. "

      I think OP has absolutely NO IDEA about building standards
      This is the standard way to wire light and fan in bathroom with no window
      Its to ensure the fan runs automatically when light is turned on
      i.e. When someone is using the bathroom. Makes sense…yes?

      I ask OP Why is that Stupid?

      NOW FROM REAL LIFE EXPERIENCE………

      Here is the real problem dear OP
      (its not stupid wiring as only a totally uninformed and/or inexperienced person might suggest)…..

      1. Check that the ceiling exhaust is completely free of any dust as they do tend to accumulate dust and it sticks to the vent grill, fan and up inside due to the moist environment and so restricting the air flow. Use a vacuum cleaner and brush to clear out the dust. Anything that helps. Even a screw driver to scrape off the dust.

      2. Ensure the fan is actually operating properly. Hold some toilet paper up near the fan/vent and see if its sucked up to the fan grill and how strongly.

      3. If is a strata building, contact the strata manager and ask them to get someone to check it out AFTER you have already done 1 and 2 above. The ceiling vent may need to be replaced.

      Meanwhile leave the light/fan on for at least 10mins after using the shower or bath.
      Ensure that bathroom door is left wide open to assist with ventilation.
      In fact its best left open all time unless bathroom is in use.

      HINT 1: The light being ON reminds you that the fan is running…OK ???
      HINT 2: if you are worried about light being left on change it to an LED one. They use next to no power!

      • Hangryuman on 02/09/2022 - 12:50
        +2

        someone who describes something they don't understand as 'stupid' is more often describing themselves … ;-)

      • GandalfTheCheap on 03/09/2022 - 19:43

        I can't believe people are honestly worried that the light can't be off while the fan is going.

        It's 2022, are you seriously not using LED light bulbs?

        If you leave the light on every second you use the bathroom, it's going to cost you, what, $5 a year? Oh no! 😂

  • cookie2 on 31/08/2022 - 19:36
    +6

    All i can offer is to say Do not use the dryer function. That'll cut down moisture from the appliance itself. If the bathroom door can be left open, that'd help but you might want to consider if the fan can be separated from the light. Or can you add a wall fan or something? And consider a moisture absorber that can be left in the corner out of sight, like Damprid (Woolworths, Bunnings, Amazon etc)

    • HeWhoKnows on 01/09/2022 - 19:27
      +1

      From experience none of this is practical or works in OPs situation

  • Jimothy Wongingtons on 31/08/2022 - 19:43
    +12

    Medium level Dehumidifier? We found the extractor fan alone was insufficient to address mould in our bathroom. I can recommend the aus climate one.

    • Ash-Say on 31/08/2022 - 20:27

      Ok got the dehumidifier which I have put in the bathroom.

    • surg3on on 02/09/2022 - 10:06

      I can also recommend the ausclimate dehumidifier

  • [Deactivated] on 31/08/2022 - 19:45
    +1

    Check whether the extractor fan is the right capacity for the size of your bathroom and also taking into account that it is used as a laundry as well.

    • R4 on 01/09/2022 - 16:31

      This. Many cheaper extractor fans are garbage and basically do nothing. You need to get a decent fan that is the right size for the room. Measure the cubic space of the room (l x h x d). Have a look at the specs of a fan and it should indicate how many cubic metre of air it shifts per hour and get the one that fits this requirement. You'd want a fan that does this multiple times per hour. Over spec it too. Fans that suck air (fan at the end of the extractor run) work better than those that push air (fan in the ceiling).

      I have some experience of this.

      • Hangryuman on 02/09/2022 - 12:56

        in my observation an A4 sheet of paper held horizontally should be sucked up to a running ceiling extractor fan vent from about 1cm away - that has been told to me by a fan installer as 'to spec' - so that's a first test for fan strength

        the other side - tenants typically closing all windows tight becoz they want to 'save money' on heating in winter - often find mould everywhere because the moisture in air breathed out and steam from cooking instant noodles cannot escape so condenses on cold surfaces like external-facing ceilings, windows and walls.

        so for an extractor fan to work efficiently you need to open a far kin window !!!

        tenants who complain about mould have typically not opened a window during winter. Jus' saying …

        • R4 on 02/09/2022 - 14:16

          What if there's no window? I disagree that you need a window open - as long as the fan is specced for the room, it's fine.

          You know a fan is working well when you have to clean the grill every six months or so! In the bathroom where I fitted this fan, I have to remove the grill to clean it. I do it twice a year and It's a bit of a PITA.

          • Hangryuman on 02/09/2022 - 15:47

            @R4: 'What if there's no window? I disagree that you need a window open - as long as the fan is specced for the room, it's fine'

            you may be right - most homes are not at all airtight - I may have read a typical Au home tends to have something like 7 air changes per hour compared to super-tight Euro or US homes with more like 1 change per hour (and heat exchangers, etc.)

            I can't forget going to look at a unit with tenants complaining about mould - I walked into what felt like a steam room, saw instant noodles bubbling on the stove in the East Asian student overcrowded unit, all windows closed, the window glass literally running with condensation, and the ceiling over the beds had paper sticky-taped to it to stop condensation dripping onto their face as they slept. The ceiling was ugly black with the worst mould I'd ever seen !

            when I asked why they didn't open any windows, the young guy said 'we didn't want to pay for heating …'

            I don't recall whether their extractor fan was working - any memory of that was erased by my general horror …

            • R4 on 02/09/2022 - 17:41

              @Hangryuman: I had a similar experience. I lived in the UK for 10 years and I rented a flat I owned to a couple from Florida. Great people who I became friends with but one day I get a call from the lady asking if I could come and have a look at all the 'black stuff' on the walls. It was the middle of winter and when I went into the property I was hit by a wall of heat! Okay, it was very cold outside but they had the central heating cranked up to the max with every window closed. All the windows and some of the walls were running with condensation. In the lounge there was mould everywhere. It was ridiculous. I ended up repainting the lounge because the mould couldn't be cleaned up properly. I got them to turn the heating down and to crack open a few windows for a few hours a day. I also got a dehumidifier which worked wonders. Problem solved but it was an expensive exercise.

          • Russ on 03/09/2022 - 16:23

            @R4:

            You know a fan is working well when you have to clean the grill every six months or so!

            How often you clean the grille is actually more related to where the air INTAKE to the room is. Usually, it's the wide gap at the bottom of the closed door.

            As you're frequently taking clothes off, and using fluffy towels, there is a lot of lint produced in the bathroom. Which falls to the floor, and then gets blown into the air when the door is closed and the fan is on. Which then collects on the fan blades (IXL tastic and similar) and/or fan grille.

            If you fit an air vent above the door (no fan, just a vent), you'll find most of the air will preferentially go that way, most of the lint will stay on the floor, and you'll have much less grille cleaning to do. Or you can always leave the door open, provided the the other people you live with are willing to do the same.

            Note that the air vent should be at least as large as the extractor fan's opening, preferably larger. An opening in the wall is fine, but cover it with a louvre grill if there are privacy concerns.

            After you've fitted the vent, you can also reduce the gap below the door to similar to your other household doors, by attaching a bit of wood. The gap is only large because the room needs an air intake.

    • HeWhoKnows on 01/09/2022 - 19:29

      It would definitely be right as its determined by building standards.
      But if its possible to put a bigger one in then better!
      However rather unlikely and its a strata issue so OP needs to talk to strata

  • DemocracyManifest on 31/08/2022 - 19:46
    +7

    You need to have a heat pump dryer for that space. A heat pump dryer will collect the water from the clothes into a tank that you can empty, or you can run a hose into a drain. A venting/conventional dryer will always cause mould due to the humidity it creates

    • Ghost47 on 31/08/2022 - 23:30
      +1

      It might just be my experience but the landlord put in one of these (a newer Fisher and Paykel one) at the place I'm staying at and it still makes the laundry humid, enough to be noticeable. Not sure if it's enough to lead to mould growth, but something to be wary of.

      • DemocracyManifest on 01/09/2022 - 09:05
        +1

        Yeah it’s still going to produce some humidity from opening the door but they mostly produce heat. Still going to have to leave door ajar with a door stopper

  • iamherenow on 31/08/2022 - 19:50
    +7

    They have done stupid wiring for ceiling fan and light.

    No it's not. It makes sure the fan is on when people use the shower. Leave the light on if you want the fan going - it doesn't use much power.

    • iDroid on 31/08/2022 - 20:01

      Could be a 100w incandescent globe for all we know.

    • Prong on 31/08/2022 - 21:39
      +2

      Yes exactly.

      It's likely a 35W or so fan, and perhaps a 6W light.

      Leaving it running 24/7 for a year adds about $20 to the power bill.

      • newbo on 01/09/2022 - 14:15
        +1

        Depends where you are, 1 watt over the course of a year in SA costs about $2.40.

        fan using 35W + 6W light = 41W
        * 24 * 365.25 = 359406Wh / 1000 = 359.406kWh
        * $0.275 = $98.83 per year

        fan using 35W + 100W light = 135W
        * 24 * 365.25 = 1183410Wh / 1000 = 1183.41kWh
        * $0.275 = $325.43 per year

        • Prong on 02/09/2022 - 10:34

          Yep, I meant $20 extra a year for the 6W light. So no issue to have the light on, since it is a comparatively small mount of power compared to the fan.

          But I worded it poorly. The fan is extra power use of course :)

      • trapper on 02/09/2022 - 15:51

        6W light is going to be pretty dim for a bathroom…

        • Russ on 03/09/2022 - 09:14

          6W LED light is plenty for most small rooms.

          • trapper on 03/09/2022 - 14:13

            @Russ: Not a bathroom though

            • Russ on 03/09/2022 - 16:39

              @trapper: The second smallest, and frequently the lightest-coloured room in the house? I disagree.

              I just checked, I've got a 4W 6500K LED lamp in my bathroom.

              The only place you want particularly bright is next to the mirror, perhaps the light fitting isn't close to the mirror in your bathroom?

    • john_conner on 01/09/2022 - 11:00
      +1

      Plus just leave the door open when you’re not using the room.

      Any bathroom will get mouldy if you don’t keep it ventilated. If there is a fan, use it. If the light is on when the fan is on, what is the big deal? Just change it to a LED it for some reason it isn’t an energy saver.

  • jjjaar on 31/08/2022 - 19:54
    +5

    Look into a suitable dehumidifier based on the size of the room and it’s function.

    Sorry, don’t have any suggestions on specific products, but this will be your best bet.

    • freefall101 on 31/08/2022 - 22:24
      +2

      A cheap dehumidifier did wonders for me when I had a laundry with a crap fan, a vented dryer and no other options. The amount of water it sucked out of the air was truly impressive. Picked up a seconds delonghi one for a couple of hundred bucks and it never missed a beat.

  • Ozbuya on 31/08/2022 - 20:08
    +2

    Another option that hasn't been mentioned yet is to get a run on timer.

    It functions so that when you turn off the light/fan, the fan stays on for a period of time. Middy's sells one which is variable, so you can adjust it from 3min to 20min or something.

    You'll need an electrician to do this. They'll basically install this right behind the switches - should be a quick job for them.

    I think this is a better idea than splitting the switches (light+fan). Or you could split the switches and then have the run on timer attached to the fan.

    https://www.ozlighting.com.au/products/ventair-timer-exhaust…

  • Dlw on 31/08/2022 - 20:16
    +3

    I know of people that wipe the inside of their shower with a squeegee afterwards to prevent mould. Something like this:
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/oates-shower-buddy-squeegee_p031…

    • jv on 31/08/2022 - 20:25
      +17

      Something like this:

      LOL

      picture of a sausage with sauce…

      • Dlw on 31/08/2022 - 21:02

        Lol, oh dear

        • Hangryuman on 02/09/2022 - 12:58

          a picture of politics - how laws are made … ;-)

  • jv on 31/08/2022 - 20:23
    +7

    The exhaust fan only turns on when the light is switched on which means you can't leave the exhaust fan alone.

    Add a smart globe so you can turn it off with your app.

    • AustriaBargain on 31/08/2022 - 20:26
      -1

      In a windowless room? Is this some kind of riddle…

      • jv on 31/08/2022 - 20:26
        +1

        What does that have to do with it?

        App will still work in a windowless room.

        • AustriaBargain on 31/08/2022 - 20:27
          +6

          Are you losing your memory, have you already forgotten you just edited that post from "Then open the window."

          • jv on 31/08/2022 - 20:28
            -1

            @AustriaBargain:

            Are you losing your memory

            Maybe you are losing your sanity…

            • AustriaBargain on 31/08/2022 - 20:29

              @jv: Can a mod confirm whether or not JV is lying about not editing that comment?

              • Ash-Say on 31/08/2022 - 20:43
                +2

                @AustriaBargain: I can confirm that JV did state about having a window. I was going to reply stating read first sentence of post but he amended it lol

            • mbck on 31/08/2022 - 21:14
              +2

              @jv: Jv seems to be an expert in gaslighting

              • jv on 31/08/2022 - 21:15
                +5

                @mbck:

                gaslighting

                It's electric.

          • jv on 31/08/2022 - 20:29
            -2

            @AustriaBargain:

            you just edited that post

            My post was there 4 minutes before yours.
            Obviously you are delusional…

  • AustriaBargain on 31/08/2022 - 20:26
    +1

    Just install an LED bulk that costs pennies a day to keep lit. Forcing the fan on with the light is a good idea, if someone showers or shits at night then they will have to choose between the fan being on or shitting in the dark. So no more forgetting to turn the fan on. You say the room is windowless so people will always need the light on.

    • jv on 31/08/2022 - 20:31
      +1

      Our sparky wired up the fan with the light too, to improve ventilation.
      It is common practice.

      • sumyungguy on 31/08/2022 - 21:04
        +4

        I think this is a Building Code of Australia thing - the room has to be ventilated while occupied. The fan isn't allowed to operate independently of the light.

        • Presence on 31/08/2022 - 21:17

          Got a source? PLENTY of bathrooms are not long this at all.

          • sumyungguy on 31/08/2022 - 22:14

            @Presence: I don't have access to BCA, but a web search of the topic suggests for the purpose of ventilation, an openable window or similar aperture is required to be at least 5% of the floor space. If not, the space requires mechanical ventilation when occupied. Reputable contractors won't install anything that doesn't meet code, and will report anything they find that is non-compliant. Of course as a home owner you can DIY whatever you like, just be wary of renting out a non-compliant premises.

          • Hangryuman on 02/09/2022 - 13:03

            @Presence: AFAIK the BCA probably required extractor fans for windowless bathrooms - to provide ventilation in the absence of a window

            our complex originally had run-on timers - probably set to keep the fan on for maybe 10 minutes after the light was switched off - but they tend to cost more, make more noise and confuse tenants - so they tend to not be re-installed with replacement inline extractor fan motors.

  • morse on 31/08/2022 - 20:34
    +1

    It’s all about air flow and reducing humidity. You can buy a dehumidifier and run it during and after showers, but that seems like a pain and will take up space.

    The fan needs to be properly exhausted/vented somewhere so that it is actually taking the moisture away.

    ensure there is fresh air coming in whilst the fan is on. If you’re not into showering with the bathroom door open you could consider installing a door vent. So that there is air from outside coming in when the fan is on.

    Also think about whether there are any leaks in the tiling or grouting that are causing moisture to pool elsewhere and wipe down the shower with vinegar on a regular basis. Any old mould stains will need to be removed with bleach or similar- definitely not at the same time as the bleach to avoid chlorine gas.

    • banana365 on 01/09/2022 - 18:04
      +2

      Definitely air flow! OP, check if that might be an issue by running the fan with the door closed and then with the door open. If there's a noticeable change in pitch from the fan then it means it's having to work harder to try and suck air out of a room that's too well sealed. I had the same issue and was going to install a vent in the bathroom door until someone (I think it was on here) suggested just trimming a bit off the bottom of the bathroom door. I cut off about 1cm (using the OzBargain mandated Ozito cordless circular saw) and it did the trick. The slightly larger gap under the door isn't noticeable unless you're looking for it.

  • Ori0n on 31/08/2022 - 20:48
    +1

    Are you renting or do you own? If you're renting, talk to the agent. If you own - its most likely your responsibility because the exhaust fan only services your unit.

    Put a piece of toilet paper up against the vent to check its actually drawing in air. Also check out the ducting in the roof space (if its ducted) to make sure its not leaking and reducing the effectiveness of the exhaust fan. It's possible the exhaust you have is grossly undersized for the size of your bathroom and the fact that you have a dryer in there as well - consider replacing it with something more powerful. Dehumidifiers will work wonders, but they will chew the juice and cost a fair bit in electricity compared to a properly sized exhaust fan.

    An electrician can easily separate the switched for the fan and the light - you'll just need a new switch plate for the extra switch.

  • cashless on 31/08/2022 - 20:57
    +2

    Thoughts on mould. I had mould/flaking paint/staining on my bathroom ceiling for ages. Re-painted it several times using various, progressively better quality paints. Taubman’s, Wattyl etc.
    Finally had my bathroom renovated & got a painter in who told me to only use Dulux Wash and Wear paint. Two coats & I’ve never seen mould in more than 2 years

  • Prong on 31/08/2022 - 21:46
    +3

    A likely issue you need to investigate is where does the fan actually vent to?

    An unfortunately common practice is having fan vent into a small roof cavity that only exists to cover the pipes from the bathroom in the unit above.

    In which case, it's not actually removing moisture overall. Running it longer will just push moist air back into the bathroom via any gaps. Which would explain your problem.

    Unless it vents outside, or to a space that has outside airflow, then it's pretty useless.

    The fan will typically have an easy to remove cover, and then the fan can be loosened and removed without disconnecting it. Stick your head up through the hole and have a look around.

    If it's an enclosed space, you know the issue. Your next step depends on if you are an owner or you rent.

  • Helmuth on 31/08/2022 - 22:02

    Get an electrician to firstly split the fan and light into separate switches. Then the fan needs a humidity sensor wired into the circuit (or you can replace the fan with one with a built in humidity sensor). The fan should spin up automatically whenever the room is too humid.

  • USER DC on 31/08/2022 - 22:32

    have same issue mould keeps growing in shower,

    Just have to kill mould with mould kiler every now and then

  • Ghost47 on 31/08/2022 - 23:25
    +3

    How old is the apartment? Newer apartments aren't built for living, they're built so developers can cram as many bodies into as small a space as possible to maximise profits. My suggestions are:

    • Run a dehumidifier, get a hectic one (i.e. not a crappy small peltier one, you will need a $500 - $600 one). I think AusClimate makes good ones. There are dessicant and refrigerant ones, I think dessicant ones heat up like a heater so might be good for a bathroom if it's too cold
    • If you want to have a warm steamy shower, shower with the bathroom door wide open (don't forget to apologise to anyone you are living with that they have to see your naked body in the shower, but it will help to prevent mould growth. "I'm sorry you have to see me naked, but I'm preventing mould growth" is a good line to try)
    • If you can't shower with the door open, have a cold or lukewarm shower. It will be uncomfortable but it's guaranteed to wake you up
    • Always leave the shower door open or ajar after showering to get air flow into the actual shower
    • Open the apartment windows daily to get air flow into the apartment. To counter cold, wear more layers
    • When showering keep an eye on the bathroom mirror, if it's fogged completely your showers are too long and too hot. Maybe don't let it get foggy past the top 1/3 or top 1/4
    • After each shower, spray the shower down with vinegar to prevent mould growth. You will have to put up with the smell. Otherwise put a clothes peg on your nose and breathe through your mouth
    • Paint the bathroom with anti-mould paint but do not rely on it solely to prevent mould
    • You could get a pedestal fan, and after every shower place it facing into the bathroom on full blast to move [presumably less humid] air from outside the bathroom into the bathroom. With climate change though humidity levels will rise so in 10 years' time (or even less, possibly) this option will become obsolete as the Greenland ice sheet melts further and melting increases exponentially due to positive feedback loops

    Lastly, write a letter to the developer thanking them for doing such a great job at building your wonderful apartment. It's great that people can make so much money building such awesome apartments, maybe even send them a gift such as a $300 bottle of wine. The positive reinforcement will ensure they keep building such great apartments that will no doubt double in value in 7 years time.

  • Ebany on 31/08/2022 - 23:36

    Mold in a rental is a tough one (sounds like an older unit), each state/territory has it's own regulations on each sides responsibility so it's always a battle. Some states (believe VIC may be an example) there's very specific reg's on ventilation requirements, especially if combined with something like a dryer and strata doesn't allow clothes lines. The government body could offer advice here.

    In NSW I find it most common in rooms lacking in dry ventilation or rooms where the other side of the wall is external and receives a great deal of shade through the day - most susceptible seems to be brick where the internal side is rendered.

    The most effective way is a reverse cycle aircon, in the unit main area or bathroom itself, but it's expensive if not already installed. Portable dehumidifiers are also extremely effective and come with a wide range of timer functions.
    The most economical way is to use mold killers and good floor mats. Always remove them and towels to a ventilated area (eg balcony) to dry after each shower and use mold killer every few months when it starts showing up again. Not all mold killers are the same, I recommend Exit Mold. Make sure you buy a pack of latex gloves, this stuff is highly effective at destroying anything biological. As a bonus, this stuff is great to spray over the kitchen sink once every few months. It'll bring back the shine by killing all the nasties in-bedded in the stainless steel and help clean the drains.

  • Euphemistic on 01/09/2022 - 05:23
    +2

    Just leave the light on with the fan. I deliberately got a fan installed to turn on with the light so the kids can’t shower at night without the fan on.
    It may be worth installing a secondary fan, IXL things aren’t the best at extracting because they are all in one.

  • Silly-sausage88 on 01/09/2022 - 08:01

    Buy a small dehumidifier. Turn the light and fan on. Consider getting a new fan - theyre relatively inexpensive, like maybe only marginally more than the cost of repainting (paint + labour).

  • xylarr on 01/09/2022 - 09:08

    There are different kinds of fans. I have noticed that fans in apartments are often very weak - the issue is they can't provide much pressure.
    I replaced the fan in my place when I renovated, and I put in a squirrel cage style fan - they can exert much more pressure and aren't as affected by long runs of venting. Try to find a fan that can be used with long runs of ducting.
    And as other people have said, get a heat pump dryer.
    Another thing you could do, if you don't want a separate fan switch, is to put the fan on a timer. When you turn off the light, the fan will continue to run for several minutes afterwards.

  • Takeohakuto on 01/09/2022 - 09:35
    +1

    We are in a rental and the exhaust fan was fairly useless and a constant battle with mould. Ended up buying a Breville all climate dehumidifier and haven't had an issue yet.

    • shaybisc on 01/09/2022 - 10:27
      +1

      How often is the dehumidifier on?

  • shaybisc on 01/09/2022 - 09:35

    Bathrooms without a window - that's an abomination. Is that extremely rare in apartments? Please don't tell me it's common.

    • skillet on 01/09/2022 - 10:10
      +1

      Its very common if you want to have a balcony and bathroom on the other side of the apartment where you have neighbors next door left and right and opposite.

      • [Deactivated] on 01/09/2022 - 10:21

        It's even common in newer-built houses & odd renos in older houses - ensuites and guest powder room/WC are window-less.

    • Ghost47 on 01/09/2022 - 13:49

      It’s not just common, it’s standard.

    • ribze1 on 02/09/2022 - 08:27

      No window in my bathroom unfortunately

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