Did I Screw up? Bought Used Car

So long story short:

I bought a used car. Paid $1K deposit through bank. Seller went OS on a trip next day, brother to handle sale all good
Brother asks for cash $7500 all good. They stuff me around, finally get to pick up the car. Dash lights going crazy (DPF filter critically full, never noticed that on test drive but whatever). Didn't get a receipt.

Was told RWC only online no paper (was sent copy fine). Guy OS completes notice of disposal Thursday night from OS
Now I check VicRoads still not in my name. Message guy "Oh I didn't hit confirm (as I suggested?? fishy). So he sends me screen shot of the confirmation (seems legit). VicRoads say rego status should be 'Transfer in Progress' but still saying 'current'. How long till this changes?

I just keep getting red flags and they always have an answer, what's the worst case scenario if they don't transfer the rego?
I did a PPSR it's clear.

I'm stressing out

Comments

  • +1

    Happy birthday for yesterday

    • Thanks :)

    • -3

      I think nobody knows the answer.
      Best advise is to just deal with it.
      If you have any suspicions then go to the police.

  • +2

    Is there a manual intervention in the transfer process?

    If yes, then nothing will happen until at least Wednesday next this week. Remember this is VicRoads and their archaic systems we are talking about.

    • Not sure what you mean by manual intervention, it's all been done online

      • +1

        Does a human from VicRoads get involved in the transfer process?

        • Not sure to be honest, they may need to confirm? I was wondering the same. I've taken screenshots of all the conversations etc, hope it doesn't come to that

          • +8

            @addison666: I think you'll be fine.*

            *I am wrong a lot of the time though.

            • @Muzeeb: Thanks I hope so, I mean I figure they would have stopped talking to me if I was being scammed by now, and he needs to be a master Photoshop expert to come up with fake docs so fast, they just keep messing me around I keep seeing red flags lol

  • Can you confirm that the car was registered in the name of the person selling it to you?

    • No

    • Would that just be a visual thing like looking at his account on his phone?

      • Checking his ID and comparing it to the rego. How do you know he owns the car and can sell it to you?

        • How would I do that? Where do I find the name the rego is in? I've never done that, I'm not sure how to do it. Normally I would have paperwork and RWC, or just a receipt. I was told since covid it's all online and I just needed to provide my license. I have his license also.

          • +2

            @addison666: Did you see a copy of the rego?

            • @onetwothreefour: No. I've never checked for any car I've bought, I'm a bit naive I guess, I just get the paperwork and hand it in to Vic roads, but they guy said since covid it's all online now, which made sense at the time.

              • @addison666: You would still need to get a copy of the rego papers (electronic or otherwise). The name and address of the owner is on this and you should compare this to the drivers license of the seller so they match (and take a photo of it). You should also check the VIN on the rego papers (and make/model) match the actual VIN on the vehicle.

                The seller (in NSW anyways) needs to fill out part of the rego papers and sign it, which you then take to the RMS (or your VicRoads).

                • @MrBear: I found this on the website:

                  "You no longer need to visit a VicRoads Customer Service Centre to complete your vehicle transfer.

                  Simply request the seller to submit an online Notice of Disposal via their myVicRoads account to notify VicRoads of the transfer. When the seller notifies VicRoads of the transfer, the vehicle will be transferred into your name and displayed in your myVicRoads account the next day. To complete the transfer, login to your myVicRoads account to provide VicRoads with your roadworthy certificate and payment of the transfer fee and motor vehicle duty (if applicable)."

                  My vicroads account has this car showing up now. I mean I thought I still needed the papers also, but this seems to have done the trick. I'll check the VIN though when I'm near my car again

  • +1

    DPF filter critically full

    Should be able to search YouTube or Google for your car make and model+ 'manual dpf burn' to figure out the fastest/easiest way to clear this.

    Although a decent highway trip (longer than 45 mins without stopping) maybe be more than enough

    • I think because the light is flashing and the engine light is also on, I need to bring it to the mechanics, I don't think it will do a burn by itself. I just want to get it into my name for now, they just give me a bad feeling how much they mess me around

      • +1

        What's the car?

        I don't think it will do a burn by itself

        Maybe we can help confirm or deny.

        Did you get a pre purchase inspection?

        • 2012 Outback turbo diesel. No pre-purchase

          • +1

            @addison666: Pretty sure a nice long country drive will resolve the issue.

            A bunch of short trips over the colder months is not desirable.

          • +4

            @addison666: Outback is the worst turbo diesel I know for DPF issues, I think unless you live in the country you basically can't own one as they are terrible at doing regens in any other conditions. And I have owned 5+ subarus as well so no I don't hate them

            Half of the ones i've seen for sale are as is with DPF issues, I feel sorry for you OP. I wonder if he even went overseas or if he just ditched because he knew the car had issues? And had his brother or mate deal with you since he had "nothing to do with it"

            • @Brick50: Okay if this all works out I may just sell it lol, thought I was getting a bargain, famous last words

            • +1

              @Brick50:

              Outback is the worst turbo diesel I know for DPF issues

              *Toyota Hilux and Mitsibishi Pajero have entered the chat…*

              Toyota literally have class action in progress about their DPFs they are that bad… The amount of Pajero DPF's I have replaced, I'm starting to think they are a service item like an oil or air filter that needs replacing.

              • @pegaxs: You are well out of date pegaxs. Only one model Pagero had the DPF problem. The 2006 to 2009 auto NS model with the open DPF. From 2009 on the Pajero had a closed DPF.

                Also not ALL auto NS had problems. It was mainly the soccer mums that never saw a motorway.

          • @addison666: Oh no.

            • @brendanm: Oh no for which part?

              • +1

                @addison666: Buying a Subaru diesel with engine and dpf lights on.

                • @brendanm: Yep lol. I swear they weren't on when I drove it 4 days prior, but I'm not so sure now.

          • +2

            @addison666: Don't ever buy a diesel car from a city driver, unless they give you a good reason that they do lots of long highway trips and they can prove it lol. DPFs are super expensive to replace $3k to $5k, close to $1k to clean off car, and most mech will charge at least $150 to do a burn off using a scan tool.

            • @Sinnerator: I found them cheap here well "cheap" but not sure how much to fit them. Yeah I googled before I bought but I didn't know about having to drive long distances, I sit on the freeway for like 25 minutes going to work, hopefully that will be enough

              • +1

                @addison666: If they are a quality product then that's an excellent find. When I was looking at buying a diesel 12 months ago (when diesel prices when slightly cheaper than petrol). One of the things I checked for was DPF replacements and they were always super expensive across many different car brands. I never heard of DEA before you mentioned them tho.

                • @Sinnerator: Yeah that's the thing, is it any good? This whole diesel thing seems like a PITA I might fix it up and try to break even, buy a petrol car lol. I just like the car

          • +1

            @addison666: Oh goodness, I have PTSD…I owned that Subaru model from new. It was a nightmare for the DPF. You can drive it as far and as hard as you want, but doing that never cleared mine, according to the dash lights and the stealership. Subaru always blamed my city driving, but I was doing highway driving as well. It ended up always had to go in for extra servicing for a manual burn…. at a cost $$$. Tyres were made of butter, and the brakes had to be serviced twice. It spent a lot of time in the repair shop, all the while I was renting a car so I could get to work. This was weeks and weeks.
            I finally got rid of it 4 years later, when the clutch burned out and it cost about 3k to repair. I have driven manual cars all my 30 year driving life, never had a clutch fail on a 4 year old car. So glad to see the back of that lemon.
            Then bought a diesel BMW X5 which has never had to have the DPF burned or replaced. No clutch thank goodness. Tyres still original, and just had it serviced…the brakes are still fine after 6 years, never needed any work or parts. (I do about 50 km a day to and from work in city traffic).
            I know everyone on here bags Euro cars and their associated costs, but this car is costing me WAY less on a yearly basis than my Subaru diesel did. The X5 came with a 5 year service package, which has just run out, but I have renewed it, because to me, it's good value.
            This car has never missed a beat. The Subaru Outback was a complete headache from the day I bought it.

            • @[Deactivated]: Oh no lol, god now I'm really worried. He said the clutch has been replaced recently, but yeah I didn't see the receipts he said he had either. I really like this car, all the reviews were glowing, it's never until you bought it the truth comes out right? My daily commute will include like 20 minutes on the freeway, maybe that will be enough? I can do the manual burn myself I think with a code reader, but then I have to replace the oil from what I can tell, I don't know why it gets such rave reviews. The BMW X5 is actually not as expensive as I would think, what year do you have?

              • @addison666: Mine is the 2017 X5 xDrive 30D F15. I am super happy with it. BMW tried to get me to trade it up this year on the new X5, but I have added roof racks, a Darche awning and a towbar, so I don't really want to redo all that again.
                And this car has not missed a beat. I have taken it driving on sand, mud, rocks, very steep climbs and it tows well. We have a camper trailer and it tows it easily. It's super comfy and surprisingly quiet for a diesel.
                Honestly, the only thing I have had to replace in 6 years is one of the headlights. I grumbled about the cost ($675), so they waived the cost and covered it under my service package. Beware of the laser lights in the new models… if you need to replace one of those, it's around $6-7k!!
                Just remembered… one of the headlights blew on the Subaru about a year after I bought it. Took it in to the stearlership, they said no worries and we will fix it. I went off to work. I get back in the afternoon and they said that will be $350 thank you very much. Huh? Turns out they have to dismantle part of the front end of the car to access the light!
                Just as an aside, I also bought from new the H6 Outback in 2002. I got the green/grey dual colour, with cream interior. Looked lovely for about 6 months. Then the leather started peeling, the stealership tried to "spray" new leather a couple of times which didn't work. The transmission failed at 30km which wasn't covered under warranty. And that thing sucked fuel like no tomorrow. I used to get about 350km per tank of mixed driving. Stupid me traded it up to the Outback described above.

                • +1

                  @[Deactivated]:

                  Turns out they have to dismantle part of the front end of the car to access the light!

                  That seems pretty common. One car I had needed to remove 13 screws and remove 2 pieces of trim to get to the headlights.

      • +1

        You need to have it pulled out and cleaned by a machine. It might be salvageable, it might not.

        How many kms does it have? It should last around 200k (the DPF) at a minimum.

        If you're willing to have it pulled out and cleaned, hopefully it's not an engine out job. If it's accessable from underneath quite nicely, it should only be the cost to pull it out, the cost to clean, and then the cost to reinstall.

        I've done this on several diesels over the years btw, proper cleans. In some cases it's better to just replace with a new unit though. The cleaning mobs will give you an idea about that after they flow test.

        If you plan on keeping it, grab this and have it installed, it will stop the DPF from collecting metal deposits, along with C4 rated engine oil (do not follow the manufacturer).

        • +1

          I think it is accessible from underneath yeah. I'm more of a city driver, I didn't see that I had to drive long distances when I researched the car, I mean I may end up just selling it after all this if this filter is going to be a problem. I've booked in with Subaru for next week

          • +1

            @addison666: Have you looked into an independent Subaru mechanic?

            They probably are more knowledgeable and should be cheaper than a dealership.

            • @Muzeeb: Not yet I just wanted to get into one asap, I have to have a look around. You don't Subaru would be good mechanics? or just more expensive?

              • +3

                @addison666: At Subaru you'll likely get the 3rd year apprentice who know about the latest cars.

                An independent Subaru specialist will likely be an older, experienced dude who knows a lot more about diesel Subaru's than a dealership.

          • +1

            @addison666: You won't need to do long trips, if you do what I say. It's still a good idea to do so every so often though. 20-30 mins above 40kmh, manually selected gear and running over 2000rpm at a given speed (I sit closer to or above 2500)

            Subaru are not who you need to visit.

            Google "dpf cleaning near wallan victoria" and start from there.

  • +7

    Rack up a few infringements and they’ll be getting that rego transferred pretty damn quickly…
    Presuming they own the car and they are not complete scumbags that thieve things.

    • It's not stolen according to the checks I did online, but yeah I heard that one about the infringements lol.

  • +2

    The guy has been in contact with me again, he is going to write me a receipt he says. I mean at least he's still talking to me, I hope that's a good sign.

    • +1

      That is a good sign. Don’t panic, follow up appropriately with vicroads if necessary. Don’t forget it’s christmas break and they could be doing system updates in the background that are slowing online stuff.

      Also, the notice of disposal in NSW doesn’t transfer it to your name, just out of the other persons. You still need to complete the rego transfer yourself and will have 14days to do so. Not sure if that’s applicable in Vic, check what their process is. VicRoads website should explain the process.

      • No I know, he's been talking to me since I paid Thursday and is a really nice guy, I really hope it's all legit, I mean I can't work out why they would keep talking to me once they got the money, but it's just one thing after another also

        • +1

          I wouldn't stress about the receipt, Vicroads don't require a receipt. Had 40 cars over last years and I don't even bother with receipts for cheap cars. Yes previously they were required but not anymore.

          • @Brick50: Fair enough, I just want some proof of purchase, I mean if this notice of disposal goes through through apparently that's all I need? Then I just pay stamp duty? I gotta talk to someone at vicroads

  • You still need to go into VicRoads, submit the completed Vehicle Transfer Form and pay the applicable duty/transfer fees to transfer the vehicle into your name. https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/registration/buy-sell-or-tra…

    • It says this "You no longer need to visit a VicRoads Customer Service Centre to complete your vehicle transfer.

      Simply request the seller to submit an online Notice of Disposal via their myVicRoads account to notify VicRoads of the transfer. When the seller notifies VicRoads of the transfer, the vehicle will be transferred into your name and displayed in your myVicRoads account the next day. To complete the transfer, login to your myVicRoads account to provide VicRoads with your roadworthy certificate and payment of the transfer fee and motor vehicle duty (if applicable)."

      He has provided a RWC so I should be able to just enter that pay the stamp duty which is what they said. They are just dragging their feet I think (hope)

      • +1

        I stand corrected. I sold a car about two-three months ago and the seller was still required to visit VicRoads to complete the transfer at the time. Hopefully it works out for you.

        • I argued with the guy also the other night, but I see it here in print so I guess it must be true fingers crossed

  • +1

    Did you take a witness along to verify your actions?

    • No I was by myself.

      • +1

        To answer your title question, yes you screwed up by not having a witness.

        • +1

          Yeah I'll know better next time. It's in my name now so I seem to have gotten lucky this time

  • +4

    Okay so the transfer went through! Thanks for all the advice. I can relax a little now ha ha

    • +2

      Feel free to DM me if you need help with anything related to your clogged DPF. There are a few other common things that can cause the DPF to clog, unrelated to use.

      • Thanks I appreciate the offer. I found an independent Subaru specialist near me, some old guy who's been working on them for years and years, has lots of good reviews should be better than a dealer fingers crossed lol.

        edit his website is here

        • +2

          A shop scantool regen won't solve the problem, it'll just be a bandaid. Then you'll randomly hit limp home mode at the worst possible time and it'll make the vehicle turn off for an hour before you can restart it. It's literally trying to stop the vehicle having a catastrophic failure.

          • @Oofy Doofy: When you say limp home, like I drove it home okay that was 1/2 hour, this mechanic is like 20 minutes away from me, will my I be okay to get there? I just drove it straight home (after getting diesel, the needle did not move when I started it and the light was on). I started it again the other day for like 5 minutes just idling, now I won't drive it again until I take it to the mechanics. If I need a new DPF I've seen them for $750 to buy, not sure how much to install, and yeah I guess he'll have to also find the underlying problem. I still don't reckon those lights were there when I took it for a test drive on Thursday.

            • @addison666: How many KM on the odometer?

              • @Oofy Doofy: About 180K

                • @addison666: I'll put a bet each way for whether it's rooted or not.

                  In terms of how long the car will drive for when it's chockers loaded up particulate and ash, that's anyone's guess. Could be 20 minutes, could be an hour. Too many factors to consider. Once it reaches a set max temp threshold, it'll start flashing the engine light and then make the vehicle slow down to 40kmh, but it will eventually just turn the engine off no matter where you are. If you had an OBD BT device, there are apps to reset it (so you can turn your key and get going again), but you are playing with fire to a degree, literally.

                  The manufacturers would probably say at 200 or so, she's a goner. In saying that, I have one at 170k (original) and it's still smooth sailing.

                  Considering how much it costs to have them cleaned properly, I'd grab a new one (ballpark is 400-500 or so). The issue again becomes who has manufactured the replacement DPF…. I'd go a Repco unit or something. Exhaust filtration mobs will know what's up, generally.

                  Type "app for subaru dpf" into your chosen spyware search engine, grab a bag of chips and a refreshment, then start reading.

                  • @Oofy Doofy: I've always had to do at least one significant repair on probably every used car I've bought, so that's fine, and it's something I won't have to replace again fingers crossed. I paid 8500 for it, and it's in good nick, if I need to pay another $1K to get it running perfectly I'm still happy with that.

  • +1

    Re DPF issues, like most turbodiesels, the subaru diesels are prone to damaging one of the intercooler hoses which makes them even sootier than normal running, so the DPF clogs up faster (and you lose a bunch of performance).

    • Okay thanks, I'm just gonna get it into the mechanics, hopefully they can see any of that, and it's easy to fix so the bill isn't too big lol

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