A Novel Cutting Tool Required...

Dear OzBers,

I'm hoping a carpenter, builder, or some other sort of learned dude can advise me about a novel type of tool that I need, and if it exists, what it is called.

What I need is a razor-sharp longish blade (at least 15 cm), not bevelled/only sharpened on one side, with no traditional 'handle' at all, but instead some sort of method of gripping it and manoeuvring it from its two ends ONLY on the side that features the diagonally sharpened slope. I want the cutting edge to be absolutely flush up against whatever I am cutting.

That all sounds a bit convoluted I guess, so maybe explaining what I want to use such a tool for will help. I am restoring a large set of old wooden gates, and part of the process involves 'injecting/squirting' expanding filler into large breaches ('potholes'/crevices) in the wood, particularly at points of union between various parts. That filler stuff is an excellent product, but it does require PRECISION cutting away of the expanded excess the next day, prior to sanding and painting. On something like huge old gates with various odd angles involved, this can not be achieved with a standard sharp knife because the knife handle precludes a 'flush approach'.

What I'm getting at is something akin to a long, flat, wide razor blade with knobs strongly attached to ONE side, but NOTHING protruding in any way on the other side. Does a tool like that exist, or will I have to set about making it myself?

Comments

  • +1

    Only thing that springs to mind is a “draw knife” but these commonly have handles attached on both sides, you may be able to modify one or look for a blade only and custom make handles to suit.

    • +1

      Thanks dude, I had never heard of a 'draw knife'; so called because you 'draw it towards you' I assume? It is SO CLOSE to what I need, but as you mentioned not quite the thing, because it can not be positioned flush up against a flat surface, due to the handles being positioned centrally on the long axis. Maybe I could get myself a draw knife, cut the handles off, then weld them back on at a 90-degree angle to where they were originally attached?!? lol … I still find it hard to believe that such a tool does not already exist. Currently I'm getting 'as close as I can' to a flush cut, then perfecting the 'flatness' via sanding … but that's getting boring, and it would be a million times quicker if I had this elusive tool that I desire …

      • Could a hand plane not work for taking off that last little bit?

        • Unfortunately not, because of the nature of the expanding filler. It dries to something with the consistency of polystyrene; which is amenable to sanding and painting, but not planing. A gentle sawing action is required when using a cutting tool (at the moment a shard knife is the best thing I have).

          • @GnarlyKnuckles:

            It dries to something with the consistency of polystyrene;

            What's the product, are you sure it's exterior rated??

            Honestly I cant imagine expanding filler working to repair large cracks in a rustic timber gate but I could be wrong.
            FWIW marine grade epoxy is the only exterior filler I know that's not going to shrink or degrade in UV.

            • @mauricem: The product is called 'FILL IT Expanda Foam', and it's made by Bostik. It's definitely exterior rated. Notably it's not intended to have any structural capacity; I'm using it for cosmetic restorations only. Mainly to fill in large 'pits and troughs' in parts of the gate where water has collected and rotted out the wood. I have taken various other measures to sure up the structural integrity of the gates, now I'm using the filler to make them look good. Re UV damage, three coats with a quality exterior paint will negate that.

              The filler product works surprisingly well, largely because it's very amenable to cutting, sanding, and painting. I've finished one of the two gates and it looks great, but it took a long time due to all the sanding required because in many places I could not get a perfectly flush cut with a knife. I'm hoping to get the second gate done more quickly (if it ever stops raining), with the use of the 'perfect tool' … hence this post.

              Once again, I have been overwhelmed by the kindness of the OzB community taking the time to provide me with a myriad of potentially useful suggestions/links. Thank you all very much.

  • +3

    Maybe if you take a picture of what you are doing and what you want to achieve, someone might be able to come up with a solution other than the tool you wish existed. There is usually more than 1 way to skin a cat.

  • Hi, Found this site of draw knifes.
    https://www.etsy.com/au/market/draw_knife

    Obligatory "That's not a knife… THAT's a knife." quote. lol

    Also, look at: https://sahta.org.au/ or similar.

    • Japanese saw makers were able to invent the perfect tool for removing excess material protruding through completed joints.

      Sounds spot on..

      • Indeed it sounds spot on, but unfortunately it's not because as with a sharp knife, I see in the pictures that the blade is mounted in the middle of the handle; thus, the handle negates getting the blade absolutely flush up against a flat surface. It did give me a thought though … I might try a long knife with a flexible blade; like maybe a filleting knife? That way perhaps I can simply bend the handle upwards (or 'outwards' as it were; away from the flat surface) while I gently saw off the excess filler with the end of the blade flush against the wood.

        • That way perhaps I can simply bend the handle upwards (or 'outwards' as it were; away from the flat surface) while I gently saw off the excess filler with the end of the blade flush against the wood.

          That's exactly what you do with those flush cut saws. They're very thin and flexible unlike a normal saw.

          • @apsilon: I need something that is not serrated/does not have 'teeth'. This filler stuff has a really nice smooth finish when cut with a sharp, non-serrated knife.

  • +2

    Can't help with the knife (still not entirely sure what I'm picturing is what you're after) but what wood filler are you using that's self expanding? Never heard of one, just the polyurethane foam stuff which definitely isn't intended to be used like this.

    • Re:

      '… the polyurethane foam stuff which definitely isn't intended to be used like this.'

      The filler works very well for the purpose that I'm using it for. See this comment for more information about what I'm doing:

      (edit: damn, I forgot how to link to a specific comment on here. It's the somewhat lengthy comment above that ends with a thank you)

  • I thought you wanted to cut a book in half?

    I'll see myself out…..

  • Search for a wall paper scraper. One I have has a 10cm wide razor blade.

    • It is not possible position scrapers (and the like) with a razor blade attached precisely flush with the flat surface. There is always an angle necessitated by the handle/part that the razor blade is attached to.

  • Maybe a Spokeshave?

  • +2

    I'm pretty sure you don't use expanding foam for this.

    • Re:

      'I'm pretty sure you don't use expanding foam for this.'

      Oh but I do. See the longish comment above, where I provide more information about what I'm doing with the filler.

    • That really would be just the thing, if only it had a non-serrated knife attached to the handle, rather than a saw (with teeth).

  • The handle on this one is offset, so might get a closer cut?
    https://www.timbecon.com.au/pax-veneer-hand-saw-76mm-reversi…

    • That's another thing that would be perfect, if only it had a non-serrated knife edge, rather than teeth/serrations.

  • Broad knife?
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/uni-pro-250mm-broad-knife_p16606…

    The blade will flex enough to get a flush cut.

    • I went and checked them out. Although they call it a 'broad knife', it's not actually a knife at all because it doesn't have a sharpened blade. It's actually essentially a scraper. The 'blade' is about 0.5 mm thick and would not cut actually anything.

  • +1

    A Novel Cutting Tool Required…

    this…

  • Multi-tool

    When fitted with the right bit, they can perform relatively clean plunge or flush cuts. They can essentially perform as a powered version of a Japanese flush cut hand saw.

    FWIW, no matter which saw or blade you use, there will be either:
    1) some material left protruding, that needs to be sanded off, or
    2) rub/scratch marks against the flush surface from the movement of the blade or saw, that needs to be sanded off, cleaned or repaired.

  • Have you tried a flap disc?

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