Mistake Purchase of 2012 Peugeot 4007 Diesel - Too Late to Go Back

I bought a car, 2012 Peugeot 4007 diesel, and did not get things checked out properly. It looks like it may have been a mistake :(. The guy selling seemed to be a nice guy in a nice house, and the car ran fine on the test drive, so I thought it was legit.

A couple of days later, my wife went to adjust the steering wheel and there was a clump of grease where you move the adjuster under the wheel, so she was not happy about that.

There also appears to be oil drops under the engine. I'm scared to look.

How screwed am I? I wanted to try to do some repairs as money is tight, but it's likely it will be out of my comfort zone.

Comments

    • +1

      When buying an older, second hand car, unless I know exactly how / when it has been maintained (eg vpurchased from a relative) then I budget around $1K for all those bits and pieces which have not been done, as the previous owner knew they were going to sell it.

  • +9

    Thanks for the responses, both constructive and otherwise 😆. There are some very helpful links, and I feel a bit more positive about the purchase now. Also, I received a message back from the previous owner who was also helpful, restored my faith a bit.

    I will have a good look at the problems over the weekend and report back.

    • +20

      Actual Euro Mechanic here (unlike the non-Euro ones who commented here).
      1. The grease issue is common, and as someone posted above, can be cleaned up and is not a problem.
      2. Leaks will most likely be from not changing the gasket on the sump plug or not tightening up the oil filter. These are not known for major oil leaks.
      3. The engine is reliable and I have seen many do over 500k. The problem is when people get them serviced as if they are fords. You need to use the correct specification oil (EG C3 low ash, always full synthetic). This is critical. Change air filters regularly, and add fuel injector cleaner at every service. Do not leave the oil changes at 20 or 30k intervals. Change every 10k. If it has used incorrect oil etc., and hasn't had regular long trips, add DPF cleaner or get it cleaned. They clean out easily and I have never had to replace a dpf.
      The fuel economy is amazing. The only thing is that they can be a little slow on takeoff. You can buy a throttle control adapter cheaply (about $200) that will change the accelerator signals and it will take off very well. The EVC and Ultimate 9 brands are great and you just set it to auto and forget about it.
      People forget that Peugeot was considered to be one of the most reliable brands in Australia. It regularly completed trials around Australia. Then they left the market and returned years later. In Europe Peugeots and Renaults are common and seen as reliable. The key is regular and proper maintenance. I have lots of cars, and my daily driver is a Peugeot. Enjoy it.

      • -1

        In some rare cases C3 oil is low ash (company blend dependent specs), but C1 & C4 are low ash rated.

        Btw these PAS motors can use c1, c2, c3 and c4… the reason to use c4 is for the low ash content with dpfs, and the high HTHS minimum for engine wear protection despite the missing ash content, compared to c2 and c3

        The same story goes for the Mitsubishi diesels.

        • Specified oil is 5w30 SN, C2/C3, BMW LL-04, Dexos 2 full synthetic.

          • -1

            @thesilverstarman: I've had too much experience to take any notice of their factory specs. C2 is low hths and mid saps. C3 high hths and mid saps

            With dpfs you really want to use low saps. They aren't really interested in worrying about your vehicle, post warranty. Dpfs will generally last a warranty period and need a clean at 200k (or replacement)

            Different lube guide sites will state different things.

            Penrite even states the 4n14 can use any C1234 oil…

      • If it has used incorrect oil etc., and hasn't had regular long trips, add DPF cleaner or get it cleaned. They clean out easily and I have never had to replace a dpf.

        Any decent products you'd recommend here? My mechanic mentioned one once, wrote it down and then I forgot about it… I think it was a Penrite product.

      • Would you say the same about a T5 VW transporter (with the larger twin turbo engine)?Mine has 280k KMs and is.still gong strong, though it has started taking more and more oil. I top up with cheap oil and then take it to a proper VW mechanic for its services.

        Is it ok to top up with cheap oil? Also, Ive started to think I could do the lube services myself. Used to service my Commodore (first car). I know you're mechanic and would be suggesting against your trade, but could I do the lube services myself? Maybe take.it to the mechanic every second service. The services are expensive for what seems to be just a oil.and filter change.

        • Of course you can do the services yourself. I do exactly as you suggest, DIY one year, and the next take to specialist mechanic. They charge around $250 for a minor service which is pretty much just an oil change, top ups and the usual checks. I can DIY with good oil, filter etc for ~$100.

        • hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that engine is known for a big issue. The oil cooler corrodes, and aluminium particles get into the oil. These cause wear in the bores (where the pistons go up and down), and also get into the bearings in the turbos, which are lubricated by the oil. The only way to tell is to have a camera inserted to check the bores. There would have been aluminium visible in the oil at some stage too. The only solution is a rebuild of the engine and turbos with new oil lines fitted and the sump and pickup cleaned out.
          It has been long known about and the preventive fix is to fit an aftermarket oil cooler.
          In some cases, if the bores are ok it could be the turbos. VW recommends regular carbon cleanouts and does sell chemical kits, but after those km will probably need a manual one done. This won't be the cause of the oil use though.

          • @thesilverstarman: Other than the oil use, she runs absolutely great. It's a camper conversion so only ever really doing big KMs and has never missed a beat.
            Thanks for the heads up though! Something to consider and watch going forward. I'll ask my mechanic about it next time I'm in there.

            Just read some more about the issue. And I checked to see that I do have the earlier cooler that runs into this problem, farrrrkk. Wish I saw this info before buying the van. I did alot of research but obv. not enough. I have had it for years now and had good use. Hopefully she holds on a bit longer.

            • @ninnypoop: There is something that you can do that might buy you time. It's not a solution, but more of a patch-up. Having said that I have seen some people get years out of it, and some get nothing, so take that all into consideration.
              Warm up the engine. Add a bottle of engine flush, and follow the instructions. Usually, it would leave the engine running for 5 or 10 minutes.
              Immediately drain the oil. This will flush out a lot of crap. Change the filter, and refill with oil.
              I would change the oil to use a 10w40 or similar. A bit thicker but not much, and ok with those km. make sure same specs.
              Add a bottle of Proma oil treatment. You can only get it from distributors and sometimes on eBay. Search the site to find distributors. I would only use this stuff for this application. It has micro particles of soft metals that will fill and plate over the marked damage in the bores. I have seen it used in a transport company in a truck, to stretch it over until a new truck arrived. When it was pulled down you could see that it had worked.
              Drive it normally.
              You might change the oil cooler to an external one at the same time if you want. You can buy them at any parts stores and they look like a small radiator. You ould need to loop the colling lines as well.

  • +1

    Well, as by what I always go by…. if you want a perfect car then buy it brand new from the dealer. If you buy it second handed always assume it has an oil leak of some sort.

  • Oil drops under the engine can only mean one thing.

    Commiserations OP

    • It’s a small diesel so it can’t be sweating performance.

    • With such a "confident" diagnosis, I hope aren't a GP.

  • +2

    Scotty got of purchasing French subs, maybe you can try the same tactic for a Peugeot.

    • +1

      Yes, lose a squillion $$$ and then re-invest a hundred times more $$$ on a flogged out ,high mileage, nuclear melt down waiting to happen. (OP doesn't have access to other ppls cash like the forked tongued faith healer)
      ( And at least the Peugeot subs didn't come with a garrote around our balls )
      Just remember EVERYTHING Morrison ever did was for Morrison. And almost everything he did was a social,fiscal,environmental or security failure.

  • +1

    OP>
    Buyers regret will subside soon. Get on with looking after it, tackling any issues as they arise. Spend as much time as you can finding a mechanic YOU can trust. Also join some relevant forums,( and learn more about your car) . This is not the place to be 'affirmed' .Or worse

  • +8

    Sh1t car money pit checklist
    1. Second Hand European - check
    2. Diesel used for driving around town - check
    3. More than 10 years old - check

    Mind you if the OP is worried about a few drops of oil and some grease then i think they've got bigger problems. Honestly they're nothing.

    • +5

      my favourite genre of OzB Forum thread

    • +2

      The holy trifecta we love to see.

      Bonus points for

      1. No pre inspection and not a mechanic
      2. Money is "tight"
  • +2

    A heap of hypotheticals… get it checked out first

  • Waiting for @Nubzy to chime in….

    • +1

      He is the gift that just keeps on giving when it comes to French shitbox related threads…

      My top nubzy favourite was the time he tried to tell everyone how his aircon kept working, even when the engine was off… or how they are great cars… if you spend a squillion $$’s on them and only let very very expensive niche French garages work on them… 🤣😂

  • It might be a gasket, a few hundred to get fixed. Take it to a trusted mechanic and get it serviced.

  • Always get an inspection done by a mechanic before purchasing cars. Its just not worth the risk to ignore it.
    Hopefully its nothing major, but you cant return it. Best bet would be to get a trusted mechanic to have a look and tell you whats wrong.

  • +2

    This thread has more drama than the Succession TV series. Enjoying it very much. Hope it doesn't tank the final season like GoT.

    • -5

      Well played (sort of) Not sure who's the lowest life-form on Top Gear.
      Clarkson, or the obsequious sidekicks who grovel on his every word.
      One of life's pleasures is seeing him squirm on QI, where real humour and intelligence exposes him as the untalented feable coward he is. He sits there like a rabbit in the spotlight waiting to be humiliated. But the jokes on him. He just has to be himself, and it all falls downhill from there.

      • +3

        It's OK dude, take a deep breath and show me on the doll where Jeremy Clarkson touched you.

        Don't worry, we're going to get you all of the therapy you need to overcome your irrational, pathological fixation and hatred of a 63-year old television presenter.

      • -4

        Even his OWN daughter has woken up to Clarksons demented rants. That's a good enough judge of character for me

  • Peugeot diesels are excellent, and serious oil leaks are not particularly common. My 404 on the other hand…

    • +4

      Can’t find it?

      • The car I can find, what's missing is the oil in the gearbox (it's all in the torque tube I suspect!)

        • Gearbox oil had a 404 error?

          • +1

            @Euphemistic: Don't worry, I got your reference to Peugeot's 404 'not found' page.

  • +1

    money is tight,

    why not a toyota m8

  • Also WOW first time seeing this

    My guy here got L plates TWICE
    Never got his P's

    We've come full circle ?

  • +1

    Little bit of grease. A little bit of oil. Normal on a euro car. It's fine.

  • How did it even pass roadworthy if it was leaking oil?

    • you can pass roadworthy with leaking oil as long as the leaking amount is not excessive in 15 minutes. Also, they can do some tricks before the test.

      • Just did a read and in Qld

        a vehicle will pass a Roadworthy Certificate Inspection if an oil leak is present but is not dripping onto the road surface or onto the exhaust at the time of inspection

        They must be cleaned it up real nice

  • i dont know about a second italian car being bad, how about a second hand bmw with over 200k on the clock?

  • +1

    Surely the OP is on a wind up here?

  • +1

    JUST DRIVE IT FFS

    • -1

      Or reverse your statement. After all it is a French car!

  • Hi @donnsuil, I have one of these, same year and model. I do all the maintenance myself. I have the exact same problems you stated in your OP. I’m not a mechanic, just a DIY’er. If you need any advice, I’m happy for you to DM me.

    • Cheers, car seems good. I cannot dm you though as "User Vivf does not accept new conversations.". Maybe you can send and I can reply?

Login or Join to leave a comment