Hi, l just had four new tyres put on my car, since then whenever l put my brakes on and the car comes to a complete stop it makes a grinding noise.
l spoke to the guy who put the tyres on and he said it's caused by the lubricant and its normal and will go away in a few days.
Do you think his correct or should l take my car to my mechanic to get checked?
They put "lubricant" on the tyre to stretch it over the rim. But that shouldn't cause a grinding sound when braking.
Correct. !
The grinding noise is coming from the brakes.
Not the tyres.
Fitting tyres does not affect the brakes at all so you cant blame the tyre fitter
OP should get a mechanic to have a look.
Now what fool would down vote such good advice?
Just shows the low level of intelligence and total lack of knowledge of some people here unfortunately.
@HeWhoKnows: Did people really downvote you for "get a mechanic to take a look"
Is this really what OZB has come to? Downvote essential life-saving advice?
Good ol ozbargain, any comment that makes sense gets downvoted, tyres have NOTHING to do with brake, could be a coincidence that your brakes were on way out and started to make noise after tyre replacement, OP when was the last time you got brakes replaced and how many K's on the car ?
Good ol ozbargain
My favourite is all the cries for "NaMe aNd ShAmE tHiS HoRRiBLe TyRe ShOp!!!1!!" when this could 100% be on OP. Without fail, this forum delivers on cries to name and shame and 90% of the time it turns out that the OP was the idiot and not the tyre shop, mechanic, inspection station, etc…
@pegaxs: How dare you question the intelligence of the ozbargain community! Did you not know that on this site the idiotic, entitled and enablers are the only people that matter, and only opinion that matters. Shame.
Lubricant on the brakes….interesting
Pretty common to spray some form of lubricant/anti seize onto wheels/wheel studs if they haven't moved for a while. Also pretty common to get a slight amount of overspray.
I do love the non-mechanics on Ozbargain chiming in on this one though. The contaminant will burn right off after a couple of drives.
If the tyre monkey needs to spray anti seize to remove the studs, then he/she is not using their apprentice issued rattle gun correctly.
If they do use it and it gets onto any surfaces that it shouldn't, then they should remove the overspray with brake cleaner. Anything else is lazy work.
I do love lazy mechanics on Ozbargain trying to justify their/their colleagues laziness/poor work ethic
Oh! If I saw someone spraying anything on my wheel studs, I would be pissed. I once saw an apprentice at work putting "Never-Seez" on some wheel studs before putting the wheels back on and if it wouldn't be considered assault, I would have made him lick it all off.
Dont ever put any lubricant on wheel studs. Lubricating wheel studs can have 2 affects, one being that it make them come loose a lot easier, and secondly, it can increase the torque through the roof and could cause over-torque and possibly lead to snapping wheel studs.
Almost all the snapped wheel studs I get in, have either been torqued up using what I can only describe as a 1 inch rattle gun, or from some moron slathering the studs with oil, grease, anti-seize or some other lubricant.
Oh! If I saw someone spraying anything on my wheel studs, I would be pissed. I once saw an apprentice at work putting "Never-Seez" on some wheel studs before putting the wheels back on and if it wouldn't be considered assault, I would have made him lick it all off.
Dont ever put any lubricant on wheel studs. Lubricating wheel studs can have 2 affects, one being that it make them come loose a lot easier, and secondly, it can increase the torque through the roof and could cause over-torque and possibly lead to snapping wheel studs.
Almost all the snapped wheel studs I get in, have either been torqued up using what I can only describe as a 1 inch rattle gun, or from some moron slathering the studs with oil, grease, anti-seize or some other lubricant.
https://autoexpert.com.au/posts/reacting-wheel-nut-anti-seiz…
@CurlCurl: Holy confirmation bias videos. I know it was going to be either John "I failed at being an engineer for good reason so I became a B-grade journalist" Cadogan, or Scotty "If only I paid more attention in mechanic school" Kilmer.
The problem with John Cadogan is he is a failed engineer, so much so that he became a journalist. Let that sink in. John now makes videos that pander to bogans, cookers and Ranger drivers for views. He has essentially become the Australian version of a Russian content farm. He just says what the algorithms tell him to say that generates views. (ie: it gets "confirmation bias" seekers views AND "your a d&#k head mate" views all at the same time…)
Now, here is the reason John is a journalist and not an engineer;
The problem with slapping grease on your nuts is the torque that most people do their wheels nuts up to… that is usually "long pipe on a breaker bar" tight or "ugga dugga till it stops". What lubing these studs does is multiplies the clamping force applied because the stud is lubricated. Quite often the torque quoted by the manufacturer (eg: 95~105Nm) is for "dry" threads, not "lubed" threads, as this makes an allowance for friction between the stud and the nut. If you remove that friction with grease, then the clamping force of the bolt goes WAAAY up and outside its "elasticity" range.
Instead of watching a video by a (fropanity) idiot, watch someone show you HOW the difference is calculated.
And you can neg me all you want, adding anti-seize to the studs for the average bogan changing wheels with a breaker bar or a rattle gun is stupid as they ALWAYS go way past the DRY torque spec, meaning that when lubricated, this can then DOUBLE the clamping force and put the bolt way over its yield point or permanently stretch it.
If you are going to put on anti-seize or any lubricant, you need to know the "LUBRICATED" torque value of the stud and only torque up to that value, NOT use the DRY value or just "ugga dugga" it up as tight as your Ozito 1/2" drive rattle gun will take it.
Again… of ALL the snapped/broken/stretched wheel studs I change out (and there has been a few in my life), almost ALL of them have had anti-seize on them that "Uncle Ian™" put on them when he rotated their wheels for a box of darts and a slab of piss. (Because Uncle Ian uses the ugga dugga gun for ALL the bolts)
Of all the videos and people you could have linked to, you picked John Cadogan, king of the (fropanity) wits. JFC…
And you can neg me all you want, adding anti-seize to the studs for the average bogan changing wheels with a breaker bar or a rattle gun is stupid as they ALWAYS go way past the DRY torque spec, meaning that when lubricated, this can then DOUBLE the clamping force and put the bolt way over its yield point or permanently stretch it.
If you are going to put on anti-seize or any lubricant, you need to know the "LUBRICATED" torque value of the stud and only torque up to that value, NOT use the DRY value or just "ugga dugga" it up as tight as your Ozito 1/2" drive rattle gun will take it.
Again, there is nothing wrong using anti seize on wheel studs if like many things in life you know how to do it. I've been catching venomous snakes for over 40 years, yes I know how to do it.
As for Cadigan being a failed engineer. Is it true that failed motor mechanics became service advisors and post on OzBargain?
Again, there is nothing wrong using anti seize on wheel studs if…. you know how to do it.
Tell me you didn't read my reply without telling me you didn't read my reply. I literally said that most people dont do it right and tend to use the wrong tools then add lube and exacerbate the problems. My comments were not aimed at "industry professionals", but at the back yarder blokes that dont know any better, like say this guy who wants a 3/4" impact gun to do "wheels, rotors and stuff". Tell me that they are not going to just use this 3/4" rattle run to reassemble all these parts…
Most of the guys at tyre centres are morons, because that is the only people they can employ, smarter people don't want to be slinging rubber hoops for a living. These morons just use a rattle gun on EVERYTHING. Then a new guy starts and the cycle continues with the old guys telling the new guys to just use a rattle gun. I have NEVER been to a tyre shop and seen a torque wrench or a torque limiting socket being used, ever.
Is it true that failed motor mechanics became service advisors and post on OzBargain?
Don't know, I'm not a "service advisor", I still work on the tools. From my observation, failed mechanics usually go on to make ridiculous YouTube channels to pander to people seeking confirmation bias by deliberately making misleading and erroneous content so the confirmation bias seekers will link to it and drive up the view count.
"#RevUpYourEngines!!"
OP didnt say..
"lubricant on the brakes"
l did aks him that , he said it will just go away by itself. He said its a common problem after putting on new tyres, l dont know if his teliing the truth or just said that to get rid of me, do they put lubricant on when they install new tyres, is that normal, should l take the car to my mechanic
Lol I have never had grinding after having tyres replaced. That’s not to say it cannot happen though
How long have you had the tyres on for?
just an hour so far ,
Give it a day or so of normal driving and see. There may be some debris in there. That being said it is highly, highly irregular to get it from changing tyres but you could have had some debris dislodge and get onto the caliper when the wheel was coming off. Again highly unlikely though
I get grinding noises from the brakes after I wash the car which goes away pretty quickly (like within a minute or two).
I am also interested if you notice a similar grinding sound when braking after washing the car?
thanks so l keep driving for a couple of days and if l still have the problem get it checked, l was wondering what he meant by it being caused by lubricant , is it common for them to put lubricant in when they change tyres, or maybe they damaged soemthing and he just made up the lubricant thing to get rid of me,
Never heard of anyone lubricating braking components when changing tyres.
They put lubricant (we used wool wash flakes dissolved in water) on the bead of the tyre. There's no reason they'd go near the brakes with any form of lubricant and lubricant generally makes things quieter.
I would suggest that they may have hung the wheel assembly off the brake backing plate when removing the wheels and it's touching the disc.
Would I be right in thinking its a German car that uses wheel bolts rather than studs and nuts?
Did you have a wheel alignment with the new tyres?
no
Why would you not get a wheel alignment when you buy 4 new tyres…
Over a period of 4 times I've put tyres on my two cars (so two sets on each car), I've had a wheel alignment done and the before/after are almost identical. So I've stopped doing wheel alignments on every tyre change.
The tyres still wear evenly, the car doesnt pull in any direction (on a flat road*) and the steering wheel is centred/straight.
The problem with wheel alignments is it's done for the car sitting on a perfectly flat alignment bed, with no weight or load applied, and in a scenario you wouldnt experience in the real world. It's fine as a baseline, but tyres are never going to wear perfectly evenly.
Roads in the real world are never the same, they have camber (even highways do, so water runs off), wheel ruts where the road has sagged, potholes and whatever else which stops the car sitting flat/level/true on the road (including occupants in the car, load, etc).
My advice? Get an alignment if something (tyre wear, steering wheel, general ride) is not right, you've smacked something hard, or as part of every other tyre replacement.
If the old tyres have worn evenly and the car drives straight then there is nothing to be aligned.
Tyre shops are generally terrible at alignments. Better off going to a suspension specialist.
Steel rims or alloys?
steel rims or alloys, is that their fault
Are your wheels steel or alloy?
no idea but its a 2003 camry
@Jackdawson79: I did a brake job last year. The car had slightly different non-OEM (steel) wheels on the front so when I put in new pads the brake pistons rubbed on the wheels. Swapping the front wheels with the rears solved the issue. This is an obscure possible cause but only if your wheel rims got rotated during your tyre replacement. If you have alloys this is an unlikely cause. If you have steelys, take off the plastic covers and see if they appear to be identical. If they're the original Camry rims this won't be the cause.
l ddnt have a wheel alignment just the tyres, The tyre change company dont seem helpful, now l paid them they dont want to hear about the problem they caused, do you think they were just making it up about the lubricant, l will take the car to my mechanic to get checked, theres no point asking them to them, l will never use them again
Well, it would make sense.
They are liar.
yes , l think they just made up the story about lubricant causing it to get rid of me , they dont want to fix the problem they caused, theres nothing l can do, l now have to pay a mechanic to find the problem and fix it
Remember to leave a Google review
What a dumb reply, you can't cause issues in brakes by replacing tyres even if you tried to, some people have no brain smh
Take your wheels off and check nothing is rubbing….
take you 10 mins per wheel..
take you 10 mins per wheel..
I wouldn't take you wheels off as the tyre mob could blame you for the noise.
TAKE IT BACK TO THEM ASAP
Don't need to tell the tyre mob that OP took off the wheels.
l have no mechanical skills, l dont know how to take the wheels off, l will take the car to my mechanic
then you will have to pay and you won't be able to go back to the tyre shop as they will say 2 things
1. you should have given us the chance to remedy the problem
2. your mechanic made it worse and we are not responsible for anything because of his actions
take it back to the brake shop and talk to the manager
WOFTAM. Also, you can't be trespassed if you are on the footpath…..
So how do you change a flat tyre?
Fun fact: 2003 Camry's do not suffer from the flat tyre issue.
Not even on the bottom?
So how do you change a flat tyre?
NRMA or his states equivalent is my guess.
Sit in the middle lane of the freeway causing chaos while waiting for someone to
- change it for him
- die when getting hit by 500 other cars/trucks who are doing 100
l dont know how to take the wheels off,
While I agree you shouldn't have to be taking your wheels off in this instance, what do you do when u have a flat?
Cry on the side of the road.
Consult Ozbargain
l dont know how to take the wheels off
Your kidding?
No, you're kidding.
What about his kidding?
Then I'm sorry, you shouldn't even have a drivers licence or be on the road at all
When you don't come to a complete stop (like applying brakes to slow down a bit) is the same or similar noise made?
theres no noise when l just apply the breaks to slow down, only when l come to a complete stop is there the noise
This does not make sense to me.
Cheers
one of the pads fell out….
The only lubricant that I'm aware of thats used when putting new tyres on is they'll often spray some suddsy water on the rims when they're putting the tyre on the rim.
BUT when this is done the tyre is off the car & thus nowhere near the brakes or anything that would squeak etc when the car is slowing.
I suspect they''ve gotten some metal particles or similar on the pads or rotors when doing the work - likely can be blown out with compressed air, regardless is very unprofessional they'd blame 'lubricant' for such noises.
Take back and have them remedy ASAP and ask for a proper explanation as to why they blamed 'lubricant' as you might be damaging your rotors by driving on them.
l asked them again , they said they sprayed lubricant on the ' studs' and thats the cause and they said they will only look at it again only if the noise doesnt go away in a few days, but l dont trust them so l booked it into my mechanic on friday
Today is Tuesday, Friday is in a few days - why not just take it back to them on Friday if the issue still exists?
It's possible the tyre tech sprayed WD40 (or similar) onto the studs prior to rattling the nuts on at 450 gazillion N•m if they had surface rust on them. Some of this lubricant may have got onto the rotor possibly causing some noise while stopping. It will disappear in a short while. Just go somewhere safe and do a few hard braking runs to burn it off.
I agree with this - I think they've been sloppy when spraying the lube on the wheel studs and gotten on your rotors.
I'd be 99% certain it's nothing to worry about and will as they say, go away with a little driving - but it's pretty sloppy of them.
I'd not go to another mechanic JUST for this - just drive in a backstreet and do a few controlled stops after checking it's safe to do so - nothing HARD, just decent braking - this should get rid of this.
But it's sloppy work by the tyre place, Id avoid in the future. Getting lube on the brakes is the type of error a poor DIYer makes, not seasoned pro's.
@Protractor: This is a few more than I have met
Tyre shops are seriously the worst to deal with. I never ask them for advice, just get the cheapest price to fit the tyres I’m after and that’s it. Wheel alignments get done at suspension shops because of tyre shop incompetence
Also possible they screwed the studs to death.
Tyre places hire some scary employees.
Go buy some brake cleaner and spray your rotors (round shiny things behind your wheels) then wash with the hose (big long thing sprays water attached to house(big box you sleep in))
Then completely forget everything you just learnt and go back out on the road and beep at people like their the idiot .
And No you don’t need to indicate direction of travel at roundabouts , every one should know already , your very important with a lot? On yr mind .
And that’s what insurance is for..
l asked them again , they said they sprayed lubricant on the ' studs'
lubricant? What the hell for? Anti seize on the studs I can understand. Also wonder if the used a torque wrench or 200nm rattle gun.
Where the wheels balanced. If you needed new tyres you may have done 50 t0 56 ks on them so a wheel alignment wouldn't hurt.
Pretty much this.
It's not an unusual problem, you see this often with new rotors too, the cause is the anti rust coating (basically oil/lubricant) on the rotor surface. They likely just got a bit spray happy lubing up the studs and you got a bit of a coating on the rotors.
It could also be they went a bit silly with the tyre shine (silicon spray), that's what they put on the tyres to make them look shiny and glossy. This is also a lubricant.
OP just chill a bit, the problem will likely resolve itself in a few days. If it's really worrying you gown down to Repco/Supercheap and grab a couple of tins of brake cleaner. Thoroughly spray the caliper and and rotors and it should remove any buildup.
Spending money on a mechanic for this is a waste of your time and money.
They probably cleaned up your hub/axle in the process and some overspray went onto the disc. Wouldn't sweat it.
Take the car down a long decline and ride the brakes, if it doesn't solve it spray it with some brake cleaner.
(Works for many disc brake bikes at least, we generally don't have conditions hot enough to heat the pads and discs up to burn off the contaminants).
Jeezuz, what butchers.Name them so readers can avoid the place & save their lives
you forgot the /s
I reckon he’s misinterpreted when you mentioned grinding and therefore responded with lubricant. Make sure he knows you are talking about the car
very funny
08 Camry not have cruise control ?¿
Name the place , you aint going back
l dont what to name them and have a whole heap of bikie looking guys angry with me, maybe a bikie gang owns the garage or something, maybe its just like they said , just the lubrication causing the brake noise and theres nothing wrong, l will find out
l dont what to name them and have a whole heap of bikie looking guys angry with me, maybe a bikie gang owns the garage or something
Is it a chain store like Bob Jane, Tyrepower Goodyear, Bridgestone, Toyo, Kumo etc or independent? If a chain say yes a chain. If independent say yes independent.
BTW. You won't get bikies.
Join a rival gang first?
Nothing to do with new tyres but my niece had a grinding noise after her brakes on the rear of her VW were done. When I checked the mechanic had left a bolt out of a caliper which caused the caliper to get jammed inside the rim when she applied the brakes. Grinding after new tyres is not normal like they say. They have probably damaged something.
lm getting my mechanic to look at it on friday and l will know then what the problem is, it could just be lubrication like they said but if my mechanic says they casued damage to my car then l will ask them to pay for the repair
And reimburse you for the mechanic bill.
And reimburse you for the mechanic bill.
I agree, but good luck with that.
wrong way around. you have been warned
l will ask them to pay for the repair
yea good luck with that.
Have you asked Uncle Ian to have a gander?
I have a feeling that this is going to turn out to be coincidence. OP will take their car in and find out the brakes are all worn out and changing the tyres was only coincidental.
I'm leaning that way too.And that we will never know, cos "no report back", is standard fare here.
could the new tyres have made an existing problem worse, my car is 20 years old, maybe when l had bold tyres it was easier on the brakes when stopping, just guessing
could the new tyres have made an existing problem worse, my car is 20 years old, maybe when l had bold tyres it was easier on the brakes when stopping, just guessing
OMG.
bold tyres should provide more grip as they're wider
/$
Lubricant on the brakes….interesting
I would go back to the tyre person and ask him to show you where the 'lubricant' is and ask him how it got there, then tell him to remove it