Hi, l just had four new tyres put on my car, since then whenever l put my brakes on and the car comes to a complete stop it makes a grinding noise.
l spoke to the guy who put the tyres on and he said it's caused by the lubricant and its normal and will go away in a few days.
Do you think his correct or should l take my car to my mechanic to get checked?
Could be wear indicators skimming rotors. Fairly common complaint, grinding noise low speed coming to a stop.
^^ This x lots and lots…
check if the brake dust shield wasn't damaged, happened to my cousin
This is very possible, particularly if there's a small amount of play in the wheel bearing. Been there…
What a lot of gaf and confusion. If ever there was a potential misinterpretation story….. this is it I think.
Slowing, grinding, noise, brakes, wear indicators, wD40, Anti-seize, rotors, steel, alloy, lube, balance, WA……. even "bold tyres"!
I think someone with a clue should test drive the vehicle, put the correct question in words to the tyre store, put their exact response here.
Note to OP(& to every non mechanic out there). If your vehicle is not 100% or you suspect anything is a-miss after leaving a repair shop, IE a grinding noise or feel on braking, return or tilt tray ASAP or as practicable - call the shop before driving another 100m, let alone for the rest of the week.
This Post needs a technical rewrite with the correct info after the vehicle is inspected properly. Dying to know the correct story.
I was given this exact same comment (lubricant, noise will go away in a few days etc) by Payless tyres on cosgrove road ( i got new bendix brakes installed) . After they had installed the brake pads, within 4 months I had 2 accidents where my brakes werent working well , first time NRMA repairer told me theres something severely wrong with my brakes and so i took it back to the guy. He said its fine but he will machine the discs or some crap. Anyway still felt not right. 2nd accident (both happened the same way), NRMA repairer said, there is still something severly wrong with the brakes, dont go back to that guy, take it to Toyota.
I took it to toyota, they did some system brake test Official report (cost me a bit), Turns out the guy had installed generic Chinese brand that was used and worn out and had 2% of brake pad left over or something. Both NRMA repairer and Toyota said i should take PAyless tyres to arbitration / court as they should be covering both my insurance costs and brake fixes etc. I contacted Payless tyres, the guy just got mad, saying how can i prove this, For all he knows I just installed my own crap after he had done his work and its my problem etc etc. I realised it was going to be difficult to really prove as i cant prove there was no tampering with the brakes after what he had done (both times).
All I know is its really hard to find reliable car service shops.
Interesting dilemma. It's not reasonable to expect you to inspect the brakes after they are installed to ensure they are what you paid for. But by the same token, if you're accusing the shop of doing a dodgy, you do need some proof you drove away from his shop with dodgy brakes.
How can i inspect the brakes to know i got what i had asked for. Not everyone knows about cars or how to lift them up and take a look at brakes brands. Not even sure if i need to remove the tyres to look at the brand of the brake pads. Not accusing the shop , I know the shop did a dodgy. Both Toyota and NRMA say the same thing.
For all he knows I just installed my own crap after he had done his work and its my problem etc etc. I realised it was going to be difficult to really prove as i cant prove there was no tampering with the brakes after what he had done (both times).
No judge would believe this.
Why would a person pay to get their brake pads changed, and then go home and switch them out for some cheap junk, and drive around crashing due to the dodgy brakes.
It makes no sense.
Seeing what the mechanic finds.
A grinding noise can easily turn a simple brake pad replacement into a significant repair cost with new rotors.
If it makes a grinding noise, driving should be avoided or minimised at the least until it has been checked.
Best practice is to machine the rotors to ensure a level surface when replacing pads but these days theres not much cost difference between machining rotors and buying new ones. I just opt for buying new rotors when ever they are on special.
I change my rotors at the same time as the pads.
It is probably a coincidence that the noise started at the same time. Get your brakes inspected.
Are you describing the noise correctly? Is it grinding or squeaking/squealing?
https://www.mycar.com.au/car-advice/are-your-car-brakes-sque…
lm taking it to my garage for a full break inspection on Friday
Get them to check the brakes as well.
Give 'im a 'brake'.
I've never known suspension or brake components that need to be removed to change a tyre.
if its a noticeable distinct grinding, (not squealing) with noise getting worse with more driving, especially when you brake a little harder ,
its not lubricant.
its 99% its your brake pads worn out, with metal to metal contact, which will score your discs
ok its was fine before you took it, BUT brakes can wear down at any day and cause this
its coincidental that it happened when you had your tyres changed,
it would of happened regardless if you changed your tyres or not.
tyre man is NOT to blame for your brake problem.
there is a lot of pigeons working in tyre places with no knowledge of brakes or mechanical issues
More common cause as others have said is a bent dust cover, but I would add
- incorrectly installed wear sensor, or things like
- tarry-stones (stuck to the inside of a wheel, falling off when removed, and getting caught on the top of a pad, or any kind of stone catching and embedding itself in the pad, causing intermittent grinding.
- incorrectly adjusted hand-brake (very common)
- a bearing or braking-related noise, only noticeable after 'something was done', both because that's the most likely time for something old, corroded, contaminated, and/or worn to get disturbed or damaged due to reduced fragility, during the work, and because many customers only actually hear their cars when they drive them out of the shop. (The subconscious side of us can easily cause our logical side to ignore a noise that is slight, or gets worse), else we would either panic and put everything else in our lives aside, to either have the car towed, or just drive to the shop gingerly), and as such hear it only after we know someone has fiddled with it).
A proper mechanic (pro mechanic) is less likely to damage anything, and also more likely to get it right, fit parts that work, warrant their labour and look after you… etc. If instead you give it to a franchised tyre shop, who in turn hands the job to their brake guy at whatever kind of piece rate they dream up for him (and your budget) is well, its just plain risky. Esp w modern braking systems, electronic hand brakes, etc.
A simple post-repair check normally picks up problems like this. A good shop will not only not contaminate braking surfaces, and/or wipe them down, they will use decent hardware and bed the pads a little (at least) during the final check.
That said, I've seldom seen anyone bed pads properly (carry out a hard braking cycle to mate the pads and the rotor surfaces correctly), and it can be a good thing to do yourself once you get the car back. Not necessary on the few rotors available with machined ridged face (sometimes this is the manufacturer's requirement). If it makes any noise after bedding in, you're right to take it back. If the noise is bad/loud/scary though, I'd take it back immediately.
Better to have tyre shops do your tyres, and take the car to a mechanic who knows their stuff, and your type of car for everything else. Like when to lube studs or nuts, assess the rotors, when to clean up the mating rotor's mating surfaces, put past on the centre bore, and so on.
Sometimes new rotors have worse warps than the new ones. Poorly matched braking materials in a lot of these OEM pads, as well as cheap construction… let alone a having a pro do a quality job, any one can result in failure when attempting to meet some bogged down brake budget.
May have bent the brake rotor dust shield slightly by knocking a wheel against it causing it to now touch the rotor.
Probably this.
Mechanics are mostly grease monkeys with no pride in their work yet they demand a premium for subpar workmanship.
Tyre fitters are people who can be trained to use a hammer(eventually). They use it for everything they do in the process.
Comparing a (qualified) mechanic to a ( DUCK!) tyre fitter is like comparing chalk and chook shit.
Brakes are over rated
Agreed. All they do is convert your hard earned money into heat. Best not to use them.
I brake by holding my hand out the window and creating air resistance to slow down my ride. Free braking FTW.
This one simple trick brake manufacturers don't want you to know.
Think we may have overlooked the most important point in this thread, and that is, OP has a licence to drive a car.
I find that frightening.
My money is on them bending the brake shield
Bearing in the hub
Nut behind the steering wheel…
cross threaded
Let me guess, mycar?
Anyone else read it as Broke Nose after New Tyres Fitted?
Just me?
I have a 2002 camry which is the same model as yours and ran into a very similar situation.
Got all my tyres replaced which they rushed because supposedly it was grand finals and all the guys had to get home.
Breaks started squealing and the car even started shuddering when I was driving over 80km.
Took it for a service soon after and the mechanic said the wheel alignment was out and asked if I had a wheel alignment when they replaced the tyres since he could see they were new. Said no and he said that's probably why.
The mechanic fixed it up and it was fine.
Overall I think the tyre shop was a bit rough and just did a bad job. I assume the same for you.
Don't forget to give us the full update tomorrow OP
Check your brake rotor disc. If it has any deep scratches, it means you have to replace both the rotor and the pad. The reason could be that the pad has worn out coincidentally with the day you changed the tyres, or the tyre guy did something wrong, pushing the brake pad into the wrong position. Alternatively, he might have let a small object fall into the rotor disc.
Do a Burnout that will fix it
squealing noise when braking = pad wear indicators - time to get new pads
grinding sound when braking = your pads are worn our and you are probably damaging the rotors
get it checked asap
If you hear a 'burrrrup' noise just before coming to a complete halt, that could indicate contamination on the brake pads.
However, a screeching, metal-on-metal sound that starts early - almost immediately upon brake application - likely suggests worn-out pads requiring replacement.
Alternatively, you can visually inspect the pads to gauge how much material remains.
HI just to Update l took my car to the garage and the mechanic did a full inspection of the tyres and breaks, he said the tyres were installed correctly and the brakes are still in good condition , except there was some dirt and dust in the rotars or brake pads and thats what was causing the noise, they cleaned the dirt and dust out and now the noise has stopped
Thanks for the update.
What about the brakes and rotors? How were they?
Sounds like a quick squirt of brake cleaner (as advised a few days ago) may have solved the issue for about $10.
THey said they are all good
Great news. At least you can be confident that your car is safe. New tyres. Good brakes.
What car? I once had an FPV with the 6 piston brembos on the front, and if you ever did the wheel nuts up too tight (i.e. KMART style with the rattle gun rather than torquing to spec), the front would shudder and make a shocking noise under brakes. I would always 'tell' the tyre places to use a torque wrench when changing my tyres, some would look at me puzzled, and that's when I know it's a shop I shouldn't be using.
OP admitted to being mechanically inept. I can guarantee it's also not an FPV because they mentioned it was a 2003 Camry ages ago.
When the road is dry, the difference is minimal.
In fact, completely bald tires might even exhibit better grip due to the increased contact area with the road, akin to racing slicks.
Lethal in the wet though, of course.