Gravel / Road Bike Recommendations?

EDIT: i've picked up an excellent condition merida ride 5000 for 800 bucks ultegra groupset

Beginner recommendations for either Gravel or Road Bike, won't be racing but will be going on rides and potentially on some gravel at times.
Open to both Road Bike and Gravel Bike recommendations?
Trying to keep my budget to <1500 bucks.
175cm male in regional NSW

Comments

  • +3

    You may be limited by living regional but check Facebook marketplace etc.

    Plenty of people buy quality bikes, never use them and sell at a hefty loss. That's when you jump in.

    At 175cm you're probably looking for a large frame.

  • Yeah been looking 2nd hand on marketplace, there's only about 4 within a 50km radius though unfortunately.
    I also don't really know what a quality bike is which doesn't help either… Thanks for the advice on the frame!

  • +7

    Frame size advice is off. You're probably a medium in most brands, or oddly a small with Canyon. Depends on body proportions too.

    I'm slightly taller with a longer than average torso, and generally fit on medium frames on most brands. Currently on M/L for giant.

    I would not suggest a large frame, you can toss a slightly longer stem onto a smaller frame but a short stem on a larger frame is unpleasantly twitchy.

    $1500, definitely secondhand. There are Facebook groups for secondhand road bikes.

    • Yep, I'm 183cm and on a Large

  • +2

    Don't get a gravel bike tbh.
    Gravel bikes are only if you already have a roadie/primary bike. Generally they're not really suited to anything and basically the SUV of the road biking world.

    You won't be keen lugging it around town when you could be on a roadie and you'll quickly find the limits of it on anything more than light gravel.

    Secondhand Facebook marketplace, Trek Emonda, Giant TCR, Merida Scultura/Reactos are all safe bets. 175cm is a 52-54cm/medium frame.

    • I didnt even know this was a thing and I cant see any benefit over a hard tail MTB or something with full suspension and a shock lock out

      • +1

        They are a fair bit faster than a hardtail MTB, just more for fire trails than singletrack.

  • +1

    check your area's cash converters, usually got a range, second-hand, but perfect for beginners.
    I'd suggest a large frame, GT, Scotts or other known brand, will only cost you a few hundred at most , fingers crossed

  • Save a bit longer and try to up your budget to $2. The Polygon gravel bikes are pretty good value.

    • +2

      Woah! Calm down big spender.

      • +1

        :) $2k

    • +2

      i've got extra money i'd just rather not spend it on a first bike

      • Personally I think used bikes are a minefield if you don't know what you're looking for. Better to spend a bit more and buy new. Spend an extra $500 and you'll get something twice as good.

        The only exception is if you have access to a reputable used bike seller (eg. https://communitybikehub.com.au/).

        • Extra $500 wont be twice as good. Once you get ovwr thw $1500 mark its a diminishing return.

  • +1

    I recently purchased a Giant (the brand, not in size) carbon fibre TCR road bike with Shimano ultegra parts for $600 from Gumtree in mint condition. They were (and still are) around the $6,000 mark brand new. It’s possible to get a good bargain if you wait it out.

    I’m looking for one now for the wife.

    • 5 fingers discount seller?

      • lol no, it’s a 2013 model but they look not much different to a current model (other than the disc brakes). They usually go for around $900 to $1300 here in Victoria I have noticed. Dangle the carrot and offer to take it off their hands when you inspect the bike and you will likely get a discount.

        • +1

          A 2023 or 2024 TCR has hydraulic disc brakes, electronic shifting (12 speed), tubeless tyres, carbon rims, thru-axles.

          A 2013 TCR has rim brakes, mechanical shifting (10 speed), standard clinchers, allow rims, quick-release.

          Absolutely no comparison between the two.

          • +1

            @prhino: yea I picked up a TCR A2 from the side of the road, bit older then his and they were around $1800 on sale

            He paid around market price, mint ones are prob 8-900

            • @WT: Yep, bike technology moves on quickly, and bikes depreciate in value quickly. Especially those with carbon frames.s

              • +1

                @prhino: Hah, road bike tech moves at a glacial place :)

                Disc brakes and tubeless and extra fat tyres were already a thing on mountain bikes twenty years ago (memory is a bit hazy here), I'm amazed how long it took for these to make it into road bikes.

    • +1

      Be lucky if you can trade one for your wife. Most sellers prefer the cash.

  • +1

    I got this when the 50% off sale was on. It can do both road and gravel with a change of tyre. "Inserts for carrier and mudguard, suitable for 36mm tyres, tubeless ready wheels"

    https://www.decathlon.com.au/p/triban-rc-500-cn-black-triban…

    • was looking at decathlon however no intention of paying full price. do you remember when the 50% off sale was?

      • +1

        I wouldn't pay full retail at decathlon, anaconda etc. Their full retail prices are very 'optimistic' and they regularly have sales that bring their bikes down to half decent value. The inflate the RRP so you think youre getting a bargain when on sale.

        • Yes, Decathlon has one of the most unusual pricing systems i have ever encountered.

        • There is a sale on right now. The top of the range 520 is almost never on sale. Not as big as the 50% though. From memory, The 50% sale is once per year.

  • I have a road bike and a gravel bike.

    I definitely recommend a road bike first. If you really want to ride gravel, you can always change the tyres to wider knobbly tyres - just check that the bike frame can fit 35-40mm wide tyres.

    I am a similar height to you and I use a medium frame size 54 (I'd say 50-54 would be a suitable fit).

    Gravel bikes are heavy and probably not the best to start riding on the road, when you are still getting the hang of riding in traffic (not to mention you may struggle up hills).

    • +2

      Agree. Ive got a flar bar road bike and its fine on a bit of gravel, especially as ive now gone up a size to 28mm tyres. Unless you ride gravel exclusivley, or part of every ride, get a road bike.

  • Furthering other comments I’d also suggest a used bike. Plenty deals to be found.

    I’d advocate to not get a gravel bike but to get a road bike with tyres on the wider side. You could even put these on yourself. Perfectly capable for most gravelly road rides. My main road bike runs 35mm tyres and it’s great on road and the odd gravelly ride as well.

  • +2

    I like to stir the pot by offering a different opinion. If you have a local bike shop in town, mum and pop shop would be ideal, the best value you can get is actually buying a bike with their help and start building a good relationship. I was once stranded 30km out of town during a solo ride due to a crash and the shop owner came to pick me up in his van no questions asked.

    If I was to buy my first drop bar bike I would get a gravel bike with a double chainring (2x driventrain). Detailed reasons below, but tl;dr: more comfortable and versatile.

    • The bike geometry is typically more relaxed as you are riding in a more upright position but still allows you to make adjustments for a more race oriented position when you have enough experience, I have seen people winning local road races with gravel bikes so they are absolutely capable machines.
    • The front fork has a greater slant translating to better stability and easier to handle.
    • There is more space on the frame and fork to allow for larger tyres, my road bike can only fit 28mm tyres max while gravel bikes can have 45mm tyres if not wider, modern day gravel bike can function as an 80's mountain bike.
    • Road bike wheel rims are typically narrower than gravel bike rims. So even if the road bike has space for 40mm tyres, you might have to buy a new wheelset to accommodate said tyres. But you can always fit 28mm+ road tyres on gravel wheels without issues.
    • They also have more auxiliary mounting points allowing you to install mudguards, pannier racks or any other accessories, which will come in handy if you decide to do carry some luggage for a biking holiday later down the track.
    • The weight difference is negligible when comparing gravel and road bike of equal pricing. Double chainring will offer the same range of gears to road bike. In fact, gravel bikes can typically accommodate larger cassettes allowing for even easier gears for really tough hills.
    • I have seen people winning local road races with gravel bikes so they are absolutely capable machines.

      That saya more about the rider than the bike. Yes, theyre capable, but put two equal riders on a roadie and a gravel bike and the gravel bike will be slower.

      The front fork has a greater slant translating to better stability and easier to handle.

      "Greater slant" is normally described as a slacker head angle. A steeper head angle equates to quicker handling.

      It depends on what OP wants. A gravel bike might feel sluggish in haning if youre on road more often. OP might prefer to 'feel fast', in which case a road bike with a steeper head angl cpuld be beetter. If you do want stability howeve, am endurance geometry road bike is an option.

      Dont forget theres different types of road bikes too. Built for endurance, more like a gravel bike or those built for 'race' with sharp handing and a nimble feel.

      • You are right in saying those race winners have legs of steel, but it doesn't retract from how capable gravel bikes can be since they are racing others in the same cat. I use my gravel bike as winter road bike and I can't tell the speed difference unless I am doing a full effort sprint, but I am also not that fast in general so maybe someone averaging 35kmh+ will say otherwise.

        I am aware of bike terminologies but layman's terms may be more appropriate to beginners who might not know what head tube angles is. But yeah steeper angle will allow for quicker responses but at the same time more difficult to manage when hitting branches and bumps. I feel more confident in cornering on my gravel bike with the same wheels and tyres, but that could be placebo for all I know.

        Enduro and touring bikes geometries have been getting more aggressive over the years with longer reach and lower stems. Plus they are a rare breed of bikes compared to gravel bike, which can be a deal breaker if you live out in the country. If OP wants to feel fast they can simply put road tyres on, lower the stem and bomb down hills on the drops.

        Keep in mind I just want to offer a different opinion to the many road bike suggestions above. I still think trying and buying a suitable bike at your local bike shop even if it is slightly dearer will be the better option unless there's some crazy clearance deal or there's no bike shop in town.

        • I am aware of bike terminologies but layman's terms may be more appropriate to beginners who might not know what head tube angles is

          Its all good to use terminology for a layman, but that doesnt help when they get into a bike djop or start reading reviews by cyclists. Better to use the correct term, even if you have to clarify it.

    • Agree. I have 7 bikes, but if I was to only have 1 bike I'd choose a gravel bike.

  • If you're looking at mostly road with a bit of off-road, then a hybrid wouldn't be a bad option.
    Jack of all trades, master of none.
    Not as fast or as light as a road bike, but with thicker tyres that don't have dramas going off road, usually with plenty of gearing, but not as thick and stable as a full gravel bike.

    • That would imo be such a compromise that if the OP ever intends to ride with anyone else on a road bike, he'd give up riding pretty quick.

      Riding a road bike, with someone tagging along on a hybrid, is an exercise in frustration. They may as well be on a bmx.

      • Depends on who you ride with. I use a hybrid, ride with a mate with a road bike, and he struggles to keep up with me.
        Just gotta ride with mates of a lesser fitness than you, ez pz. ;)

        In seriousness though, a lot of people have expensive road bikes but not all are super competent/competitive riders.
        The number of people I overtake using my $700 hybrid when they're using proper road bikes during casual cycling events (50km Tour de Brisbane/Brissie to the Bay) is pretty silly. Not everyone is aiming for performance, a lot just ride for fitness and fun and end up at sub 20km/h speeds.

        • TBH I'm the same. Last time we went out my friends were on hybrids and I outthem on a single speed dirt jumper and I'm by no means in good shape.

          But if OP is new, and if he's riding with anyone more experienced or serious, equipment is likely to factor into it.

  • If your a beginner dont get carried away spending to much for something you may stop using. Personally i would go a hard tail mountain bike.

    But in your case go the gravel bike gives you a few more riding options(rail trails/gravel roads/some low maintained dirt roads).

  • Similar to 2esc comments,

    Also depends on your build not just your height. I'm 181cm but very heavy-set (read fat). I have a 2014 Giant Roam. I have done the odd mountain track but most of my riding is road with occasional gravel. I run road tyres varying between 23 - 32 with no issues. Advantages for me are that it is a more comfortable ride (I can lock front suspension out for increased speed) and has a wide range of gears. The heavier duty wheels mean less chance of damage.

    As for speed, I have managed to out-pace many people on bikes worth $$$$ on events like the Gong ride and Ride London.

    Definitely recommend doing the rounds of local bike shops, even if you don't end up buying from them, they will be able to provide you with the knowledge to check that whatever you buy is actually suitable for you.

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