Amsterdam Classic Bike Belt-Drive 8-Speed $898 (Was $1,698) + $62 Delivery ($0 MEL C&C) @ Lekker Bikes


Decent quality belt-drive (Gates CDX) bike with internal 8-speed hubs and internal routing. Best price yet judging from previous deals.

I bought one earlier this year when it was the same price as one of the previous deals, and am super satisfied - it comes about 95% assembled, just needed to attach pedals and the handlebar, pump up the tyres and was good to go!

Shipping varies between $52 to $182 depending on where you are:

Edit: Updated with coupon code for an extra $100 off, thanks @noone!

Edit 2: It looks like the code has expired… Still a good deal at $898 I reckon though, at least compared to the $1048 I got it for!

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  • +7

    bought one a few months ago, it's nice. very heavy though so not great up the hills.

    • Lightweight aluminium frame
      Pick it up and you’ll see what we mean. Not that you’ll be carrying it around much. You’ll be too busy riding. It’s 100% rustproof, so you’ll be out in all weather, with no worries. Nice.

      • +17

        There are a bunch of components on the bike that are not rustproof. Chain rings, brake levers, cables, etc. etc. Don't leave the bike out in the rain.

        • True but compared to a traditional chain bike, it’s weatherproof.

          • @Grok: Its just easier to clean if it gets wet. You don't need to clean the greased muck out of the chains and lube it again.

            You just wipe away the dirt and grim from the rest of the bike.

            Otherwise keep it dry and store it in a dry environment.

        • +1

          These are belt drive

        • I live by the sea and keep mine inside. Non stop issues with spoke rust near the join to the rim and snapping. Drives me nuts.

      • +1

        100% rustproof does not exist even on expensive bikes… if bikes can be made rustproof, no cyclists would be scared of riding on the beach…

    • +1

      Cutting a couple of kgs is not going to make a big difference on hills. It is the gear ration that really matters.
      Would be nice if the seller could say what the gear range is.
      I'm guessing a Nexus with 3x ratio? Similar to a road bike, but non-athletes riding in the hills will want a mountain-bike gearset.

      • +1

        Nexus 8 speed gear ratio is 307%.

        • +2

          That's what i said, 3X.
          Percantages are normally used for differences, e.g. a "200% rise" means 3X., but Shimano uses 307% to mean 3.07:1 , an average 17% change on each gear. (We don't say 117%, do we Mr Shimano?)

      • +1

        If those couple of kilos were some lightweight rims it would make a huge difference.

        • … to acceleration, and so feel, but not to hill climbing.

          • @bargaino: yeah lighter wheels makes a big difference for hill climbing too. basic physics principals apply.

            • @frondono: Nothing special about rotating mass on a steady road climb. Time penalty is linear to total mass, assuming ideal gearing.
              But I welcome a physics duel.
              Newtonian rules?

              (BTW, the wheels are not what makes this bike heavy)

              • +1

                @bargaino: "But I welcome a physics duel."

                ok, how about this? There seems to be a suggestion below and generally on the web that a carbon fibre fork will result in a smoother ride.

                "Carbon forks, whether for MTB bikes or general road bikes, absorb shock more effectively than any other metallic materials, thus providing a better riding experience overall."

                That seems preposterous to me based on my experience of riding my teeth chatteringly stiff carbon fibre frame bike on rough roads.

                So I've found someone who agrees with my prejudice:

                "But the claims about shock absorption, and vibration dampening? Come on - it's nonsense !!! It is demonstrably untrue !!!

                Focus on the engineering and the physics — the ONLY two ways that shocks can be absorbed are by movement - either compression (the material compacts in a sponge or spring-like manner) or by deflection (the material bends or flexes to re-direct the energy of the impact)."

                What does physics say in your opinion?

                • @shaybisc: That is not so much an engineering question as a religious one. Wars have been fought over less.
                  And it used to be over steel vs alloy frames.

                  My answer is that we should be interested in the properties of the complete frame. Properties of the material are of interest to the engineer who designs the frame.

                  But yes, both metal and carbon composite are elastic - they do no damping or shock "absorption", but there is some flex so they act as springs, which is what some people mean by "shock absorber".

                  A frame or fork can be made as stiff as you like. Aluminium is less stiff than steel, so the tubes are made thinner, with a larger radius, to compensate. That is the physics.

                  My personal impression (I don't have numbers) is that fork flex is small, and does not have much impact on riding comfort. Tyres are what matters, and frame geometry. What do you think?

                  • @bargaino: I agree.

                  • @bargaino: interesting, I've found moving back from aluminium to a steel cromoly frame & forks was the best thing I've done that improves the feel of the ride. I'm thinking I'll get the lifetime guarantee out of the Jamis Coda frame. It's my daily commute, and been great for 10 years. Had previous aluminium frames break on me

                    • @rwps: It sounds like a great frame. It is just tricky to assign benefits to the material when there are so many other variables. Steel has three times the stiffness ( Young's Modulous ) of aluminium, but steel frames tend to be less stiff, due to design decisions ( minimising weight while maintaining strength? ).
                      Your bike may have more sideways flex when you stand on one pedal, which some people like.

    • +5

      Have you fitted a rear rack? I notice they don't sell one for this model. They do for others. I assume it has eyelets for rear rack?

      • +1

        Yes it has eyelets, you need a rack with the right shape though, the frame sticks out near the eyelets and can get in the way.

      • I fitted a rear rack, not hard.

        • +1

          You should definitely ensure it is fitted on hard. You don't want it falling off …
          (Sorry, I'll show myself out)

      • +1

        I installed a Topeak super tourist dx disc with a milk crate secured by cable ties. It works perfectly fine but might be a bit hard to mount/dismount as you can’t swing your leg over as easily.

  • +3

    Cheap as. I spent about $1400 in 2022.

    Bike is decent. It is heavy though.

    • +5

      That 8 speed internal gear hub is almost 2kg by itself. That's the nature of these geared hub.

      • +1

        I have a Focus with the same setup. Love the shimano 8 hub and gates belt drive. Almost silent cycling, no grease, no clunky gear changes, and very low maintenance. I’m probably not winning any cycle races around the velodrome, but love it as an urban bike.

        • +1

          Can second the love for the belt drive. Who can be bothered screwing around greasing chains etc? Not me that’s for sure!

        • +2

          Same here. Great commuter bike.

          Only one caveat: the hub gear can sometimes slip if you're out of the seat uphill with a heavy load and a high-ish gear.

          Happened to me twice, both times I was on the road before I knew it.

          Need to re-learn riding. Stay in the seat and churn the granny gear.

    • +6

      I don't think people looking at this bike are weight weenies.

  • +3

    Got this in a previous deal, would strongly recommend for urban/semi-urban environments. It's considerably heavier than, say, my carbon road bike, but if you're in a mostly flat area or won't be tackling any hills this is a great sturdy bike. It's already had a few falls (user error) and it has come away with a small scratch or worst, a slightly bent mud guard that can be bent back in place.

    The in-store service in Alexandria is pretty good but their phone system is useless. Bike gets 1 free service from their shop, I believe. Note that you do still need to give it a minor amount of care, i.e. give it a hose and/or wipe.down regularly and adjust the gear (they provide instructions, takes 1 minute).

    When I first got it the front brake would squeal horribly. I couldn't work out why, and when I took it into the shop they said that that's pretty common when breaking-in the brake. Just something to be aware of because it certainly SOUNDED like something was wrong. Anyway, after ~200/300km now it has become much quieter.

    It is a joy to glide along with the smooth gear shifts, comfy tyres and no freehub mechanism making noise when you're not peddling. Very silent, elegant and comfy ride. Lmk if you have any questions.

    P.S. see if you can add a front or rear carrier before the check-out step, was half price for me. It's definitely worth it though I had to replace the strap that came with it.

    • +2

      I also bought one a few months back and generally very happy with it. My only gripe is that almost everytime I set off from a stop through the lowest gears I get a fair 'clunk' that nearly knocks me off the pedals! Has been like this since day 1. Anybody know if it's a quick fix or need to take in to my local bike shop?

      • +1

        P.S: I spoke to another person with a carbon belt drivetrain and they said this is normal and happens to them too

      • +1

        I get a clunk too, but not that harsh that I might fall off.

      • I think that's precisely the problem that would be fixed by aligning your gears better. (I have an older internal gear hub bike that did the clunking too, but it mostly stopped once I fixed the alignment; my Lekker hasn't really done the clunking much at all.)

      • +1

        Check the alignment of you gear hub:…

        Also, your cable may gave stretched. You can tighten it by adjusting the barrel on the shifter… but if it’s done it since day-1 head back into the store and get them to take a look. After sales service in quality bike stores is usually good!

    • What's this about adjusting the gear? I don't recall seeing anything about that.

      • I'm no expert, but it's just about getting the alignment correct so that (I believe) the gears don't slip/catch. Basically there are just two little lines and you adjust it (very little) until they're matched up.

        • +1

          Ah yes… I think I did do that…

          Actually my brakes/fenders were making a strange noise and my handle bars weren't attached properly so I took my bike to 99 bikes and they did the final check and adjustments. Didn't cost too much and gave me peace of mind the wheels wouldn't just fall off when riding.

          • @Circly: That's my biggest fear when trying to do any sort of maintenance myself. My brain is good at, like, coding, but not to so good at putting physical items together. I guess I should walk mine down to my local shop at some point!

            I think the brake noise is pretty normal though (and mentioned elsewhere ITT) for the new bikes.

            • +1

              @yeahna: Yeah they said lucky I brought it in because I hadn't put the handle bars on tight enough lol.

              Yeah no harm to do that for peace of mind.

              • +1

                @Circly: Lol that's rough. I actually bought one of the cheapo Reid bikes a few years ago, and as I rode it home I noticed that pedalling felt weird. After about ten minutes the left pedal straight fell off, so that was cool.

                You'd think basic construction would be something bike shops would consider to be important!?

    • Do you have the front or rear carrier? I got the front one (only because they didn't have stock of the rear one), but I've found I never use it because it feels so awkward to put anything weighty there. I dreamed of strapping a pizza on there, but realised that kinda sucks too because it's getting hit front on by the wind so I might as well just order it from Uber if it's gonna be freezing cold by the time I get home anyway.

      I think the rear rack would be much handier (YMMV of course).

      • I have a front cartier too. I'm also somewhat timid with using it, a back one would be preferable imo.

    • +1

      Regarding "but if you're in a mostly flat area or won't be tackling any hills this is a great sturdy bike", and at least one other comment like that.
      What type of hills are 'we' talking about here that are too hard to deal with?
      Coming from the hilly part of an otherwise totally flat country, like most people I rode a 3-gear bike with a steel frame weighing some 20kg.
      It was used to ride to school (with what felt like 10kg of books in my bag… those were the days… ahem) and even a couple of bike holidays with 20kg of gear on the rear carrier.
      Sure, you need some level of fitness, but with that bike I managed to climb hills with 8% incline, up to 5km in length, without too many issues.
      Admittedly I have never ridden this bike (or anything similar), but given that this bike is 'only' 13kg and has a whopping 8 gears, I'm inclined to think it is a beaut ride even in hilly areas (had there been decent bike paths in say the Monbulk area (MEL) I'd happily give it a spin there).

      • +1

        I ride both this bike and my road bike at least twice, usually three times a day (inc. taking it up and down my 5-floor apartment stairs each time) so I'm pretty familiar with it. I do commute this Amsterdam bike up a couple hills regularly, but for your average person who's just after a somewhat stylish runabout and not that interested in going into a standing climb position on their commute — this just isn't as suitable as many other comparab options (such as a steel or aluminium road bike). It's likely due to the geometry and gear ratio, and exacerbated by the weight. Those more familiar with the mechanics will give you better answer.

        Respectfully, as someone who 'bike holidays with 20kg of gear on the rear carrier', you are not who this advice is aimed at.

        • hahaha… guess I should have mentioned that that was over 30 years ago… methinks I do fit the profile now ;-)
          With the bit of extra weight (say 10kg) I now carry around, and those extra years, I can still go uphill on my 3-gear Gazelle which weighs at least 15kg… and I am no longer a fit person. Hence the sort of 'incredulity' I experienced, on people's ability to deal with hills.
          Maybe it makes a difference if one grows up riding bikes almost daily…

          • +1

            @JustAnExPat: As I mentioned, there's likely also a significant difference in the bike you road (presumably designed to tackle the occasional hill) and this bike which is explicitly designed to operate in flat areas haha

  • +1

    a BBSHD on bike and it would fly!

    • -1

      was going to say that this is a prime candidate for a Bafang mid-drive, and it'd be an amazing commuter

      • Just throtle the watts down

      • +1

        Not with the belt drive.

        Better off with a front hub unit,

        • depends on terrain IMO

    • I looked into this sort of bike when building my BBS02 bike 18months ago. I was reading about how the internally geared hub might not be able to handle the power of the motor. The 3 speed iteration of the IGH is apparently alright if you stay in 2nd gear.

      Has anything changed in the last few years in this regard?

  • +1

    "Most of our customers choose the Adjustable Handlebar Stem as an essential upgrade for daily use."

    It's not in accessories. How do you get it? How much does it cost?

    Found it. That is Lekker told me where it is.…

  • +2

    Great bikes,
    Heavy af but will take an absolute battering.

  • +4

    If you have a longer torso and shorter legs, make sure to measure your in-seam and compare it with the standover height before blindly purchasing.

    As an example, I am 187cm tall. By itself, it would suggest I should purchase the 56cm size, but my inseam is only 82cm, which is apparently well below average compared to other people my height.

    The 56cm size has a standover height of 83cm, which would mean it would be impossible to straddle the bicycle without my gentleman bits touching the top bar.

    If I choose the 50cm size, I'm risking the arm reach not being quite right and excessive toe overlap when making sharper turns.

    I ended up choosing a different bicycle with a slightly sloping top tube and a lower standover height.

    • +1

      Made for tall Dutch people lol

      • +1

        Can confirm! (Own this bike, am tall, dad is Dutch.)

        Edit: With that said I actually do have a longer torso and shorter legs, so had to give the seat height an adjustment before it felt really comfortable. But I like it now. 6'6" and bought the largest size.

    • Yeah, don't buy without a test ride first. If you have long/short arms, how aggressive your position is, all affect how good the ride will be. If you mess it up, you might need a wider handle bar, longer stem, bar ends and what not. Best to get it as close as possible.

  • Can anyone link to some reviews on this brand/ bike.

    • I did a big search for reviews before I bought mine (maybe a year ago) and there was very little written about it (think I found one YouTube video…), which I found odd. But I really love mine, and to the extent that I've had to ask questions about it, the people working at Lekker have been really friendly and helpful too.

  • I own this bike and love it. Can confirm it's really heavy (but so am I so I don't notice as much as a lighter person might). Very smooth ride.

    • +6

      I remember when I went through my weight weenie stage decades ago and I remember when it ended. I was showing the post office bloke some expensive titanium part that I was picking up that saved me a few grams. He asked me why didn't I just lose a kg or two, ha ha ha.

      • +3

        When I was first researching a good commuter bike I was putting way too much weight (punintended) on the importance of a kilo here and a kilo there, then I realised I've been 100kg+ for several years so maybe I was focused on the wrong thing lol.

  • -3

    belts lol why not just go ride a tank

    • +2

      I also have a belt, no one is riding me

      • +2

        That's because they're all riding tanks

      • Take the belt off

        • take it off and put it around the body this time for max power transfer

  • +2

    Just as an aside, has anyone here ever found a good instruction set (video, preferably) for replacing the rear tyre (i.e., removing the wheel, removing the gear hub attachment, replacing the tyre, then putting it all back together)?

    I got a flat and I would love to change it myself, but I'm super nervous about putting it back together wrong, so instead I've just…stopped riding. (My brain don't work so good at tasks sometimes.)

    There are plenty of videos online for other bikes with internal gear hubs, but none that I could find specific to this bike that covered the whole process. I think I found written instructions but I need the visualisation.

    • +2

      There are YouTube videos on how to remove the rear wheel on bikes with belt drive and internal hubs. Nasty. I will leave that up to someone who knows what they are doing. I'd rather watch the one on puncture repair without removing the wheel. That's in my wheelhouse.

      • Yeah that's exactly my concern. I'm a total noob with anything mechanical like this (I can build a PC though lol), and I'm just nervous that there'll be some tiny difference with this that I'll get wrong, and my wheel's gonna fly off when I'm zooming down Swanston Street, which I'm almost certain would be unpleasant.

        I just gotta take it into the shop I guess.

        Re the puncture, I can't find it. Even did a little test trying to figure out where the leak is but couldn't. I think I have to admit defeat.

    • +1

      You can do it halfway - not that challenging. I’ve changed tubes and tires on my bike without having to open the rear dropouts. Loosen the bolts wither side so you can the wheel and operate carefully, you don’t need to disconnect everything. You can get enough space to do what’s needed.
      When you put the rear wheel back in use a tuning app to get the right belt tension.…
      (Sorry, i don’t have android).

  • Just a note that the 3 speed version is $698 which is also a great price. I grabbed that over a year ago and find it a great commuter. Granted my commute is fairly flat but the ratio of the 3 speeds is broad enough for most hills and pottering along. Very enjoyable ride and great looking bike too!

    • +1

      No Gates on that one.

      • Oh you're right. They've changed the 3 speed. My 2023 purchased model has the belt drive, now the 3 speed has no mention and picture looks like a chain. Good pick up.

    • +1

      3 speed bikes are simple and awesome commuters, have done many thousands of kms on mine. Bottom two gears for hill climbing, top gear for the flat. I also have a two speed (no gear selector, peddle backwards to toggle the gear) which is also excellent.

  • +1

    Two questions,
    1. What is recommendation of locking/securing this bike? I got 4 Kmart $100 bikes stolen in the past 10 years in Melbourne, 1 was in the secured cage.
    2. Any recommendation for ebike around $1,000? Mainly use for communiting to work approx 20 kms per week.
    Thanks all.

    • 20km total? Get a$200 bike with$100 D-lock for work. And a nice bike like this for weekends. Crime in Melbourne is crazy.
      With all the graffiti, it looks like Detroit.

      • Thank you. Yes 5kms one way, 2 days a week. Indeed Melbourne is crazy. I got my trailer, line trimmer stolen as well in the last few years.

    • I've got my Lekker secured with a hefty kryptonite D-lock, but even then I don't leave it unattended for too long. Any flexible lock (i.e. not solid steel) can be cut with cheap shears or bolt cutters from Bunnings (check out the Lock Picking Lawyer on TikTok, most locks don't last 10 seconds). Cheap d-locks can be pried open with the leverage of a crow bar. Good ones are harder to bust but none can withstand a portable angle grinder… (at least the latter draws attention with a lot of noise and sparks). Good luck.

  • +2

    I am looking to buy a commuter bike to travel to work (20km). I am currently interested of getting Merida Speeder 100 through 99Bikes. The price is the same, what are some advantages of this bike over the Merida?

    • Looks like the Merida seems more focused on speed and maybe better suited for smooth roads? I think the Lekker has much thicker tyres so can deal with a bumpier ride. If your commute isn't too hilly the Lekker is probably better too (though I do have a decent incline on my ride and it's still doable despite my being middle-aged and heavy…with some momentum I'm usually overtaking most other riders). Plus mudguards! (Though I suspect they're cheap so probably not an especially decisive factor.)

      Sorry for taking over this thread everyone.

    • +1

      In addition to @yeahna 's points:

      The Lekker has a gearset that doesn't require maintenance - no oiling or cleaning gears, there's a rubber belt instead of a metal chain so no oiling that either, no rust on that, probably a relaxed ride geometry too.

      The Merida will almost certainly be lighter and therefore faster, it has more gears (though you'll never use them all - there's always some overlap and you don't want to go biggest rear ring to biggest front ring, for instance). Looks like the tires are 32cs on the Merida, so they're both going to be forgiving.

      If it's 20kms one way… Damn, I'd pick the bike that's more comfortable, because beyond 10kms how your seated seems to start having an effect on your shoulders, and back.

      I think the Lekker would be easier to live with, especially if you're using it to commute everywhere, and if it gets muddy or dirty where you live - the belt drive and enclosed hub is perfect for that, with mostly flattish terrain around you. Also looks built like a tank.

      Merida if your concern is speed and you hate the rain.

    • I'd go for this over the Merida every day of the week.

      The Merida won't even be much faster on the flat

      In addition to the low maintenance, you won't get grease on you clothes sure to no chain/lube.

      This is a MUCH better bike.

    • I'd go for a Merida Speeder 100, ideally something a bit better. I've done a similar distance commute and it's a commitment. A friend had a Lekker so I appreciate how heavy they are. You will consume considerably more effort getting riding the Lekker 40kms a day but it will be more comfortable. The Merida especially swapping out those horrible wire threaded Maxxis tyres with some better tyres like Continental Gatorskins 32mm. It will add an extra $150 but they are a lot better.

      This bike has no advantages, it has smaller (650b/ 27.5") wheels vs the Merida (700c/29"). It has an alloy fork. At 20kms the Merida has carbon forks and 32mm tyres so it will already be a pretty smooth ride.

      If you're doing 5kms each way to work then the Lekker would be fine.

  • +1

    Nice deal. I'm sorted for my 'round town' bike but otherwise I'd be interested in adding a belt drive bike for n+1 and baby carrying.

  • +1

    Love this bike, fantastic price. Only annoyance is the rear wheel is a PITA to remove if you get a flat.

    • Just in case you didn't see my comment earlier ITT: I have exactly this problem (a flat rear tyre). Any tips or videos you've come across?

      (Though I think I've already reached the obvious conclusion—that I just need to take it back to the Lekker shop and get them to do it.)

      • It's a good skill to learn so I'd recommend doing it yourself, but it's not terribly expensive getting a bike shop to do it.

        Any random video for a Shimano nexus hub should be fine to follow along. All you really need to do is disconnect the gear change cable, using an allen key to rotate the joint and maybe a pair of pliers to get the bolt out. You'll also need to untighten the mudguard since it blocks the removal of the wheel. Then you can just remove the axle bolts and the rear wheel should slide out of the frame. Take a few photos so you know what it looks like when it's together.

        Getting the tire off and on the rim is hard the first time, but it's easy if you learn use the proper technique (I haven't needed to use soapy water yet).

  • +6

    These bikes have been showing up in my feed for a while, but I don't really understand why anyone would want one over a decent flat bar road bike (merida speeder 200, Giant fastroad SL) which is much lighter (especially wheels and hubs) with a decent gear train, brakes and forks and only a little more than this price.

    My goal for commuting is getting from a to b quickly in comfort. This seems worse than a flat bar roadie in most use cases.

    For those of you that like them, what's your reasoning? Ruggedness and lack of service reqs? Aesthetics?

    I'm not judging, just curious.

    • "what's your reasoning?"

      In my case it's the belt drive and internal hub gears.I wouldn't mind a bike with a stand and mudguards either.

      How do you get from a to b on that Merida without getting lube on your clothes or legs?

      • +1

        How do you get from a to b on that Merida without getting lube on your clothes or legs?

        How are you riding your bike? This seems like a completely overstated issue in these comments… I get more road gunk/dirt on me than chain lube. In fact, most of the dirt on me is from mud flinging up from the rear tyre.

        If you're riding with baggy pants, just use a strap around your right calf.

  • +2

    Is that maximum load of 100kg likely to be correct? Seems a bit low.

    • the bike itself might be bombproof, but the weakest (cheapest quality) link is probably the rims.

  • Love my belt driven (non lekker) bike.

  • I thought it was an e-bike, sadly no. Otherwise it would have cost an extra $2000.

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