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ANYCUBIC Kobra 2 Max $299, Kobra 2 Pro $179, Kobra 2 Neo $159 (OOS) Delivered @ ANYCUBIC AU via Amazon AU

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ANYCUBIC Kobra 2 Max $299, Kobra 2 Pro $179, Kobra 2 Neo $159 (OOS) Delivered @ ANYCUBIC AU via Amazon AUAffiliate
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ozbs25 on 01/04/2025 - 22:01 amazon.com.au (1011 clicks)
Last edited 03/04/2025 - 12:25 by 1 other user
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ANYCUBIC Kobra 2 Pro $179
ANYCUBIC Kobra 2 Neo $159 (OOS)

Hey guys. I don't know a thing about 3D printers but I saw ANYCUBIC had some decent discounts on some of their 3D Printers. Prices seem good compared to other (recent) deals. I'm sure you'll let me know if this is not a good deal. Not sure if there are any other ANYCUBIC deals apart from these 3.

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.
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closed Comments

  • perfectlydark on 01/04/2025 - 22:52
    +1

    great deals. the Kobra 2 Neo was the first (and only) FDM printer I bought and I freaking love it. so easy to setup and use, and produces pretty decent prints. $159 is a steal

  • MagicTsukai on 01/04/2025 - 23:57

    Seems good, what are other good alternatives for comparison

    • MagicMikez32 on 02/04/2025 - 01:26

      Neptune 4 max. I have one, it can temperamental, but i havent used it much as my ender 3 is more conveniently located and ive got it to a point that i can load something up and it just works.

      Nearly want to buy one of these just to compare. Footprint is so big itll just be another printer taking up space in the shed.

      To be fair N4M has produced some good prints, mostly functional stuff, a few nice vases, some trinkets etc.

      • bamzero on 03/04/2025 - 17:27

        Also have an N4M and was tempted to do the same :D Told a family member about the deal and they ended up ordering one so I can compare with theirs.

        My N4M has been good so far though, running KAMP on stock firmware and it's been pretty set and forget. Does take a little extra time to probe the bed before each print though even with adaptive meshing, so have recently ordered an Eddy. Realtime scanning can mesh the whole bed in about 30 seconds, and auto set z offset.

        Will have to switch to OpenNept4une which I had been holding off as believe the touchscreen isn't fully working but think a lot more has been fixed since I first looked at it.

  • tophern on 02/04/2025 - 04:29
    +2

    there also seems to be good deals on the sla printers, mainly ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4 Ultra can add that, ANYCUBIC Wash & Cure 3.0 and 2l of resin for $336

  • Jimothy Wongingtons on 02/04/2025 - 08:46

    Nice price on 2max

  • tellhimhesdreaming on 02/04/2025 - 09:03

    Damn, bought the Kobra 2 Max for $369 from this recent deal and it hasn't even rocked up yet. Wonder if I can return…

    $299 is a crazy price for such a big print volume

    • Sarge2401 on 02/04/2025 - 15:56

      Did you get a tracking number for post? I tried to cancel within 6 hours and they said it had been sent. Still nothing.

      • tellhimhesdreaming on 02/04/2025 - 16:10

        They contacted me about the filament which they said they had to send separately, have a tracking number for that but not the actual printer…

        • Sarge2401 on 02/04/2025 - 19:01

          Just looked and theyve refunded me $499.
          So cost me $33 for 10 rolls of filament.

          • tellhimhesdreaming on 02/04/2025 - 19:29

            @Sarge2401: Cheap as for a bit of stuffing around! Jumping on the Amazon deal then?

            Tbh I kind of hope they refund me too, bought a resin printer today from Amazon and it's already shipped, so would prefer to just buy from them

  • w33w00 on 02/04/2025 - 09:08

    I am new to the 3D printing scene, as in heavily wanting to get into it but I don't know what the heck to start with! Looking to maybe print up some figurines, a few Ryobi/Ozito battery adapters, a lot of little cool 3d print projects I've seen around.

    Is the Kobra 2 Neo a good starter one? Or look to just go big with the Max? What else would I need?

    Reading @tophern comment has me wondering do I just get what he suggested - as in looks easy to set up and get going.

    • tellhimhesdreaming on 02/04/2025 - 09:34
      +2

      For a first printer go a smaller build volume unless you have something specific in mind that's huge. The max will take up way too much room if you don't need its size.

      I haven't used either but looking at the specs I'd go the Kobra 2 pro for the extra $20, seems like the extra z motor and acceleration would be worth it.

    • foursaken on 02/04/2025 - 15:01
      +2

      Lots of questions to answer before anyone can advise you.. FDM (battery adaptors) or resin (figurines)? Resin has additional considerations such as the resin being stinky (toxic - requires ventilation or similar) and needing curing. FDM printers aren't capable of the detail of resin printers, but are what you want for "engineering" stuff.

      Don't go with a Max anything as a first printer. You've got no experience with slicers, CAD, etc. Go with entry level. If you haven't thrown the printer out the window in 6 months, then upgrade. If you just want a push-button printer, then look at the Bambu's. They largely just work. If you're more into fiddling and upgrading your rig over time, then you want something common or open source. These printers are fine.

  • SS625 on 02/04/2025 - 10:21
    +1

    this or bambulab a1 for first printer?

    • t0mbi on 02/04/2025 - 11:12

      bambu if you can afford it

  • photonbuddy on 02/04/2025 - 16:34

    Bought!

    My Nephew, who is into this stuff, suggested ABS filament to start with, and then PLA for stronger prints, so I got some of both.

    He was pretty impressed with the value proposition of this deal.

    I guess the journey begins!

    • Stevesie76 on 02/04/2025 - 17:38
      +2

      I think you have that the wrong way around. Start with PLA, move to ABS if you need it, but it's hard to print without an enclosed printer and it's really toxic during printing.

      • photonbuddy on 02/04/2025 - 20:50

        His words were:

        ABS is easier to work with initially, lower melting temp

        Pla gives stronger parts though

        • asa79 on 03/04/2025 - 11:36

          PLA is weaker then ABS

          • photonbuddy on 03/04/2025 - 14:26

            @asa79: Yes … he tells me he got the wrong way around …

            @Stevesie76, @bamzero, and @dlovep were right.

            I actually bought 2 roles of the eSun PLA+ (because it was cheaper/KG, even though it wasn't on sale but the 1KG was!) and 1KG of ABS.

            If I'm building an enclosure, either out of something like MDF, or PLA+, what sort of filter should I get for the extraction fan?

            Also, is PLA+ good enough to make stuff that will sit in a baking hot car, or should that be the sort of thing I use ABS for?

            I could return the ABS, but I don't like returning things when it's not Amazon that's made a cock-up.

            • Stevesie76 on 03/04/2025 - 15:04

              @photonbuddy: With ABS in an enclosure, you can't really extract the air as that will cool the enclosure. The point is that it needs to print in warm air, like 45c or more. PLA will melt in a car on a hot day, PETG might be the go for that as it prints without an enclosure but doesn't soften at such a low temp. It can be a little trickier to print neatly like PLA+ but it's not too bad if you get the temp and fan speeds right and don't try to print it too fast.

            • bamzero on 03/04/2025 - 17:08

              @photonbuddy: Any PLA, + or not stands the chance of deforming in a hot car but I wouldn't be so quick to jump to ABS. PETG will give similar results, not quite as heat tolerant as ABS but usually enough for inside a car and much easier to print. Its more resistant to UV exposure than ABS too.

              If you need a nice smooth finish ABS does have the advantage of being fairly easy to smoothen with acetone vapour (although I believe it is possible with some PETG filaments using Ethyl Acetate or other solvents).

              For the same reason against using PLA in a hot car, you probably shouldn't use PLA as part of an enclosure either. The important numbers here are the glass transition temperatures, which are much lower than the melting temperatures. Basically when the material starts becoming soft.

              Material Glass Transition Temp (°C) Melting Point (°C)
              PLA 55-60 150-180
              PETG 80-85 220-260
              ABS 100-110  200-250 

              You can increase the heat tolerance of PLA a bit by annealing it, though this does change the dimensions a little (x and y usually shrink a bit, z expands). Kinda useful back in the day when my hotend wasn't hot enough to print PETG but these days not really worth the effort.

              • photonbuddy on 03/04/2025 - 20:22

                @bamzero: Thanks for the more detailed info.

                Looks like a bit of learning to be done.

    • bamzero on 02/04/2025 - 18:18
      +2

      Like Stevesie says, other way round. PLA you can print easily without an enclosure. It's more resilient than you might think, though can soften if its outside in the sun.
      Another alternative is PETG, higher melting point and a little more flexible than PLA, but without the fumes and enclosure requirements of ABS so I'd recommend starting with those two.

    • dlovep on 02/04/2025 - 22:10
      +1

      PLA always comes first, easily printable at 100-120mm/s vs ABS's 30-60mm/s. For initial prototype print mostly use PLA as it's safer even without enclosure but definitely not ABS. Final print PLA+ or PETG with grid or hex pattern and adjust the spacing to enhance toughness. Stay away from ABS it's only for people you hate the most, you made it sounds like he hates you…. LOL

  • asa79 on 03/04/2025 - 11:40

    Neo looks to not be available anymore

  • AdModnar on 03/04/2025 - 18:00

    Anyone wants to use OctoPrint on these - careful, not all anycubic will do that.
    I think because they don't have the USB connection required.
    eg: https://simplyprint.io/compatibility/anycubic-kobra-2-max

    • bamzero on 03/04/2025 - 18:40

      Yeh I believe the firmware on these despite being Klipper based is kind of locked down, can't even access the printer.cfg easily. Installing vanilla Klipper requires replacing the mainboard.

      Hopefully they work well enough with what they've got.

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