How Much Are You Paying for Car Service (Standard/Logbook)

So, I just got my car serviced recently and naturally started wondering—what are people generally paying for services these days? That got me thinking, am I paying for maintenance or secretly funding a mechanic’s vacation?

Poll Options

  • 10
    >$1000
  • 49
    $100-$200
  • 123
    $200-$300
  • 84
    $300-$400
  • 23
    $400-$500
  • 17
    $500-$600
  • 4
    $600-$700
  • 7
    $700-$800
  • 6
    $800-$999

Comments

  • +3

    Missing $400-$500 option

      • No
        Happy Easter!

        • -3
      • -2

        Shit box⁉️

      • What servicing do evs require btw?

        • +2

          In general - nil. Some EV makers recommend inspections at 12 month intervals, but there's precious little that needs actual work.

          Most of them recommend changing the cabin air filter every 2 years ago (or you can easily do it yourself) and apart from that, it's only windscreen wipers, topping up the washer bottle, and tire change/rotation/alignment as required. Brake pads might need replacing at 100,000km or so.

          • +1

            @klaw81: Thanks, i like that about evs, also no need to line up at bloody petrol station to put fuel lol

            Looking forward to a switch in the future.

            • +3

              @ATTS:

              also no need to line up at bloody petrol station to put fuel

              Leaving home with a "full tank" every morning is a seriously under-rated benefit. And charging at home on a low off-peak rate makes it crazy cheap.

              I just completed a >900km trip yesterday, and the total cost for "fuel" was less than $40 - and that's with 3 visits to public chargers which are typically "expensive" compared to home charging.

              • -5

                @klaw81: And how many precious minutes of your life did you just give away while waiting for your bucket to charge? 60? 90? Let me guess, it's fine because you got to have an overpriced sandwich and coffee and stretch your legs.

                • +1

                  @BlahBlahBlaah: Since you asked - the two mid-trip stops were 13 and 16 minutes. Each of those was enough to add ~180km of range, which was plenty enough to reach that day's destination with some range to spare.

                  The overnight stay included a free slow-charge all the way back to 100% while we were in bed asleep.

                  So we were stopped for charging a total of 30 minutes, which was, as you say, sufficient to stretch the legs, use the facilities and grab a drink.

                  Can you possibly assert that those stops were onerous or inconvenient?

                  • -3

                    @klaw81: So you don't even fully charge the thing, how lame. Did you have to meticulously plan your trip too, leaving no room for error? Compared to an IC car where a servo is everywhere and i can go to full in about 3 minutes flat? Yeah, progress

                    • +5

                      @BlahBlahBlaah: Using 8L/100 and $1.80 for fuel, the trip would’ve cost me $144

                      It took klaw81 1/2 an hour longer, and let’s assume it took me 9 hours for the 900km trip, and klaw91 9.5 hours. It added about 6% time wise. That is bearable to me.

                      I don’t get 900km from my car, so a stop at a servo, to fill it up, go in and pay we’d be looking at 5-10 mins. So really the charging has only added 20 mins to the trip.

                      The trip saved klaw81 $100 with a forced half an hour rest, so a nice lunch and drinks were basically free. Free food is progress.

                      So it’s compensating you for the forced break at about $200 per hour.

                      Not a bad deal if you ask me, and I don’t have an EV.

                    • +1

                      @BlahBlahBlaah:

                      So you don't even fully charge the thing, how lame

                      It didn't make any sense to charge all the way to full - it takes longer, and I didn't need the extra charge.

                      Besides, public charging is relatively expensive, but charging at home or at my destination is cheap or even free.

                      Did you have to meticulously plan your trip too, leaving no room for error?

                      No, I had the option of 3 chargers along my route during each leg of the journey, any of which would have been suitable. As it turned out, we stopped at one closest to the middle of the trip, just a few metres down the road from where we stopped in our ICE vehicle when we did this trip last time.

                      i can go to full in about 3 minutes flat? Yeah, progress

                      I consider the very slight inconvenience of using public EV chargers a few times a year to be an excellent trade-off for the incredible convenience of home charging every other day of the year.

                      I think we've dragged this topic on for far too long. This thread is supposed to be talking about servicing costs.

                • @BlahBlahBlaah: Username checks out

          • -4

            @klaw81: Tyres are the big thing but also brakes - both short to medium term

            Long term is the killer - The battery!

            This is why EVs depreciate so quickly after a few years

            • +2

              @Dr Phil:

              Tyres are the big thing

              Not really. Tyre wear on EVs is not noticeably worse than comparable ICE vehicles. I'm at 50,000km so far on the original set, but they're getting close to the end of their life now.

              but also brakes

              Brakes on EVs are not a concern at all - they simply don't get used much due to regen. You can drive around a city and literally never use the mechanical brakes, or even touch the brake pedal. Most EVs will easily pass 100,000km on the original brake pads, and the rotors will almost certainly last beyond 150,000km. The only major exception is areas with heavily salted roads due to snow - the rotors and pads can become rusty and sticky with disuse under these circumstances.

              Long term is the killer - The battery!

              There's a common perception among the general public that EV batteries are short-lived and prone to sudden and catastrophic failure, and this attitude definitely leads to reduced resale values - but it's only a perception, without any evidence, and it's mostly held by the ignorant and poorly informed.

              The overwhelming data from the current fleet of EVs is that degradation is nowhere near as bad as many feared, at an average of 0.5% loss per year. The rate of sudden failure is incredibly low, and almost always happens early in the vehicle's service life, well within the 8 year battery warranty period where it's eligible for free replacement. There's absolutely no reason not to expect an EV battery to last beyond 300,000km - far longer than the average ICE vehicle.

              However, there is a far more legitimate reason for EV depreciation -strong competition among manufacturers, and significant reductions in the cost of manufacturing EV batteries as factories achieve economies of scale. These have resulted in retail prices of brand new EVs falling rapidly - which obviously reduces the resale value of used EVs.

              The upside of this is that used EVs that are only 2-4 years old can be bought at relatively low prices. Considering the biggest hurdle to widespread EV adoption has always been upfront cost of purchase, this is a major benefit to consumers looking for a highly reliable vehicle that's extremely cheap to run.

            • @Dr Phil: I wonder why you need to change your username so often?

  • +1

    I just checked - Rav4 capped price $230.

    Toyota are quite upfront - whack in the rego or VIN, update the mileage and it tells you exactly where you're at with your logbook (and $$)

    • That's pretty good price.

    • I’ve found Toyota capped price servicing pretty good.

    • +1

      Capped price for particular years, once that gone goes full service $500 even more.

  • +4

    My Boxster S averages around $600 per year at an independent and that includes consumables like brake pads / rotors (obviously rare to replace). Has varied from a low of $350 to a high of $2750 but that covered 2 years' servicing plus battery plus front discs and pads.

    At the dealer the prices would be 2 to 2.5x what I have quoted.

    Not sure why anyone would bring a car to a dealership for service. Your warranty is maintained regardless.

    • +1

      Not sure why anyone would bring a car to a dealership for service. Your warranty is maintained regardless

      My car is out of warranty and I still go to the dealership as I get capped price servicing that also includes 12 months roadside assistance.

      My most recent annual service cost $360

      I can wait at the dealership (Hyundai) and the car is usually ready within 2-2.5 hours.
      They also wash and vacuum the car.

      So taking into account that Roadside assistance with NRMA is normally around $135 a year that brings the out of pocket cost of my recent service down to $225

      I'm sure it would be a bit cheaper to get it done at an independent mechanic but probably not by much and I'm happy to pay a bit extra for the convenience of being able to wait and have the car back in a couple of hours.

    • At the dealer the prices would be 2 to 2.5x what I have quoted.
      Not sure why anyone would bring a car to a dealership for service. Your warranty is maintained regardless.

      Not sure about Porsche, but capped-price servicing for new cars under warranty is definitely not 2~2.5x more expensive. Oftentimes, there’s little to no saving going with a good specialist independent, especially for European cars (with my experience owning and servicing VW, Audi and Volvo cars), and dealers often provide a free courtesy car, so you might actually end up spending less when you factor in the cost of a hire car for the day. Plus, you avoid the risk of getting caught between the dealer and a third party if something goes wrong. And 3rd party mechanics also don't have access to the latest software updates. IMO it’s just not worth it for new cars, but definitely makes sense once the warranty’s up.

      • Capped price is a thing because they can avoid doing maintenance that used to be 'basic', but is now skipped as moving parts don't have grease nipples, are sealed and just wear out at some point after the fixed price period ends. Oils 'last longer' because they have more additives to manage friction (eg. this 'friction modifiers'), which are all very well but are expensive, and negate the problem of oil contamination. Also, they have a sharp break down at end of life. (Drive to 15,000km and every km afterwards is logarithmically equivalent to many multiples of that in internal wear, as well as chemical corrosion/attack on various parts that reduces their lifespan).

        Market researchers have been doing this for ages; asking customers what they want (faster horses) and giving them what they (don't) need- less reliable carts: E.g. Less oil changes by specifying more expensive fluids, larger sumps, specialised filters and more complex systems- all allowing increased time between services, less servicing in the first few years, and ensuring anything that goes wrong with the car goes unnoticed for longer.

        Cut price servicing is servicing at a cut price- and the costs get borne after the service period expires. The vehicle suffers, safety is neglected, and customers begin expecting that their aging appliances are invincible and don't need to be cared for. As a result cars strike catastrophic failures earlier (cooling systems, head gaskets, major components, plastic parts) go to waste in half the time. Plus overall costs (not just maintenance), but insurance and depreciation… all increase, resulting in more money going to the manufacturers.

        And as for dealer servicing, if not expensive, they present a serious risk IMHO. All will try to value add to off-set any savings the salespeople sold you with their 'fixed price service plans'. Sales/service clerks and managers, are all too often incompetents that maintain only their own employment by saying whatever they have to to rip off the customer and meet targets and record any customer action/inaction that could possibly void the warranty, that is very real. Let alone desperate mechanics (and poorly taught apprentices) working on things they haven't yet had the training for, and don't know enough about otherwise, to just 'wing it' like a seasoned pro that has seen most of the crazy ways engineers weasel their maddest ideas of the month into production.

        Yeah, saving on service, tell 'em to stick it. A lot of what they'll claim is failing is actually wear and tear they don't cover, or is simply not needing replacement (yet). But they will fight you to do it and threaten to cancel your warranty if you don't acquiesce when they want to charge $500 for draining and filling your washer fluid, because it could be legionnaires bacteria and algae. All you need is the specs and procedures and a pro to do it (all stuff they could publish for all, but don't).

        All too often the only option is to watch them like hawks and fix the things they break, or take it to someone who can do it right and sign your service book- that's where the savings actually are. I can't count the number of times I've seen dealers have to send complicated problems out to pros who actually know how to troubleshoot. They think the manufacturers are gods, dispensing service proclamations like they are pure gold. The reality is that the manufacturers can't even spec a thick enough lubricant because their 'group-think' can't solve the problem of how the model sits in a less competitive emissions, consumption, or carbon, category without thinning the oil out. Customers accept that their car is serviced and safe for the next 15,000 despite someone having driven it through a flooded road, sucking muddy water into its pristine driveline components. Don't they know the Dealer could actually just be employing a technician that doesn't care, doesn't really understand, and can barely do (like many I have met, but not all, of course). Of course a log-book service at the Dealer sometime in the next 12,000km will be all it needs! Not all are like this, some are even good, but the risk with most low to mid-market Dealers in Oz is quite acute.

    • +1

      There is a lot more steps to access Boxster engine compared to a normal front engine car. This alone requires more time.

  • Just paid $4245 for major service for a car under factory warranty. Next service in 12 months is only $795.

    All other family cars I personally service for around $200 in parts pa.

    • +17

      $4k? Did they put the gold infused blinker fluid in?

    • +1

      $4,245… a supercar marque?

    • +3

      TL;DR: Servicing cost cents, thanks!

    • VW or Audi?

      • VW or Audi?

        Can't be either of them, Because both Audi and VWs have a 5 year warranty and the 5 year capped price service plan for even the most expensive ICE Audi which is the RS6 is only $4360.
        However, if you're replacing the brakes and rotors on an RS6 or something similarly exotic, then sure you can easily go over $4K. But then again, brakes and rotors aren't considered standard/logbook service items.

    • probably a high yield investment vehicle - 80k bmw

  • +4

    $$$$ Depends on what sort of cars you have .

    • Yes , par for the course.

  • +8

    Don't like paying a mechanic? Do it yourself. A basic service is pretty easy.

    • -3

      what to 'save' in service cost you pay 3x in loss of car value…

      • +13

        Depends. If it's an older car, 8 years +, it makes bugger all difference in my experience.

      • +1

        Every car I've ever got rid of went to the wreckers. I don't think the lack of a stamped log book affected the value, you can't get less than scrap price.

        • +1

          admittedly if you drive a car till it is 'pretty much' dead then you are saving money self servicing - i have 'always' traded in or sold my cars

      • -2

        For a 2001 Ford au ute work car i dont think it matters.

        I do get the Family Car professionally service though but from safety and reliability view point a professionally can spot some issues before they become a problem.

        I have never ever considered resale because i use cars for a purpose i dont worry about what the neighbours or family think status wise.

        • -1

          this is a weird comment servicing and maintaining a car has nothing to do with what people think - if you do not properly look after your vechical it can be 'very' dangerous

          it isnt a 'status' symbol regardless of if you have a ferreri or an i20 you need to look after your car and if you dont you are putting yourself and others at risk

          this is the equivalent of using google to get medical advice and not getting professional support - im sure people 'know' how to service their own cars but the vast majority cant or shouldnt easily missing 1 minor saftey issue can kill you or your family or someone else.

          yes cars are to 'get you' from A to B but to not look after it properly regardless of the vehicle is dangerous

      • My car is 18. They're not worth as much when there 18. Most people like them much younger.

  • When shopping for a new car, the 5 year capped plan for a MB C250 was just on $5,000. For a BMW 340-1x it was $1,950.

  • +14

    am I paying for maintenance or secretly funding a mechanic’s vacation?

    Oh, FFS, no, you are not paying for the mechanic's anything. The guy that works on your car most likely gets paid (fropanity) all and most of them are paid at the absolute minimum award wage for their trade…

    Now, the question you should be asking is; are you secretly funding the dealer principles 15th IP house mortgage, 48 foot yacht, Audi SQ8, half a horse stud of very expensive dressage horses for his shit nosed arsehole daughters and for his 3rd divorce… then yes, yes you are…

    • +7

      tl;dr - mechanics make cents. Cheers

    • +1

      half a horse stud of very expensive dressage horses for his shit nosed arsehole daughters

      Oddly specific comment that I did not expect to find here. Completely accurate.

  • +1

    I think you need to specify kms or time interval as well
    Toyota is usually less per service but needs servicing every 10000 kms / 6 months where as most euro cars are for 15k -25k kms / year

    • +1

      TIL that Toyota still do 6 months service intervals. FFS what sort of archaic shite is this?

      • -1

        That's how they get away with their capped price services being so cheap… gotta do 2 of them a year… :D

      • +1

        utterly foolish practice to service a car less frequently than 15k interval
        Just asking for trouble especially for an euro marque

        • Mercedes advice 25k interval….

          • +1

            @apple2016: Why would mercedes care if it lasts past the warranty period?

            • +1

              @cille745: Mercs rarely last even that long these days

      • +1

        I thought they stopped that years ago along with Honda, Subaru and Mazda. Once warranty is up I just go on km travelled.

    • +2

      Most of the smaller/mid size Toyotas are 15k/12months now.

    • +3

      Good luck on your euro lasting if you're servicing it to that interval, they need even more frequent servicing than the Japanese

      • Mine is $265/ 6 months cap price service. Toyota

  • +4

    Where's the option for <$100 for those who DIY at home?

    • Exactly. Oil goes on sale regularly, just check out the deals I post. A filter also pretty cheap, around $20 and some basic tools. Invest in some Jack stands and a floor jack and one can save a lot of money doing a basic service.

      • +3

        To be fair 'just' an oil change isn't a service, as such.

        • +4

          What is it then?

          Most 'services' are an oil change then inspect everything else

          • +10

            @oscargamer: Exactly, lots of ppl can DIY change oil. But the % of those same ppl who can spot more potential problems or signs of wear etc on the components is part of a 'proper' service = how many?
            DIY oil change is great. But it's not a full service.

            • +1

              @Protractor: Check levels, look for leaks, look for wear on ancillary belts and suspension components. Check wheels for stuffed bearings, rotate wheels and check tyre pressures and bulb function. Takes less than 20 minutes while the car is in the air on stands.

              That's the minimum I do when self servicing.

              • +1

                @MS Paint: Sounds good. I'll be around tomozz.
                Last service Uncle Ian tightened up the wheel bearings with a commercial grade rattle gun, and put 65PSI in the tyres. He whacked Coola cordial in the cooling system, and I'm still trying to scrape the melted pantyhose of every hot surface under the bonnet. He also installed a dixie horn combo onto the reverse light circuit. (don't ask)

              • +1

                @MS Paint: I would make the argument that 99% of the Australian population can't do all that in 20 minutes. If they can it's either not to a safe standard or they don't really have any idea what they're actually looking at.

                • +2

                  @EFC94: Are you suggesting I'm a 1%'r?

                  • -2

                    @MS Paint: No, I’m suggesting you’re either lying about what you do for your “minimum” or you’re lying about how long it takes you.

                    • @EFC94: Not 20 minutes to do the complete service. 20 minutes to do all the other safety checks/inspections outside of a "basic service".

                      • -3

                        @MS Paint: I mean draining the oil would take you no more than 1-2 minutes to undo the filter and sump plug, complete other checks while it drains and then another 5 minutes to replace filter, sump plug and refill with oil, let’s round it up and say 30 minutes for the entire service. It’s quite impressive you can get it all done so much faster than a fully qualified mechanic.

                        • +3

                          @EFC94: I've been doing it for 25 years and have all the gear setup in a dedicated garage. It's not like I'm doing it over the gutter on the street.

                          What a mechanic charges and the actual work they do are 2 completely different things.

                        • -2

                          @EFC94: It's easily doable in > 60 mins if you have ramps and a cordless ratchet wrench + experience with your own car. Maybe a bit longer only where tire rotation needed.

                          • @Serapis: I mean sure thing 60 minutes seems more than reasonable if you know what you’re doing, I’m just quite impressed MS Paint can get it all done in 30.

                            • -1

                              @EFC94: Doable once you have all the gear and are confident. With a good jack you can have a car off all four and on stands in a few minutes.

                              • @zfind: Efc94 doesn't agree by the look of it.

  • +1

    Dealership? Definitely paying for more than an oil change. Gotta keep that massive showroom and advertising budget funded somehow

    Independant? Yeah, youre funding some holidays and stuff but its not a secret and it depends on the business. The flashier the waiting room, the more you are funding that stuff.

  • -2

    I usually pay in individual lengths of string. It varies each service

    • What’s your angle?

      • -1

        The moment has passed.

  • +1

    Missing <$100

  • started at $80 for my previous car with my mechanic, later it was $110, now he has more staff and a bigger place, so it became $150 for petrol cars, but I have a diesel car now, so it is $240, takes 8l of oil anyway.

  • +3

    None, I do all stuff by myself.

    • Incidentals cost money, although ~50 bucks every 6 months for some engine oil and an oil filter (stocked during sales) is pretty good

    • +1

      None

      So instead of oil you put water?

  • Really depends on make and year of car. My usual service is around $200-300. Recent major service was ~$1200 with 2 or 3 new tyres. Was I ripped off? maybe.

  • Need a $1k+

    • Isn't that the first option?

  • 2 bmws, 300 each
    1 mazda - free for 3 years

  • Biggest ripoff is Subaru. When I bought my 2020 outback (preowned), I didn't know they had a 6-month service interval or 12,500 kms, whichever comes first to maintain warranty. So its two services in a year, worth min of $360 each.

    • Subaru service cost is outrageous!

    • +1

      Yeah the newer Outback’s are 1 year/12500km. Still not cheap, and it seems like every second service is upwards of 700. Diff oil, brake fluid etc are the killers.

      • +1

        My last service at around 55k kms was $600 with these additional fluids. It will go out of warranty this year so I plan to go one service every 12,500 kms after that and not worry about time elapsed.

        • Same. I'll out of warranty later this year. Then, move to longer intervals. Tbh, I feel ripped off with the costs involved in servicing the Subaru. Wish I had done my due diligence.

  • Recommend going to Autoguru to check a variety of servicing places in one page so you can choose the one that is worth the price.

    • Autoguru used to be good but now usually nothing shows up in Canberra. I think they are focused more on bigger cities

  • +1

    Around $200 for the last two years. Each service was tyre rotation. Also did not take the car anywhere. The service guy came home and did that rotation.
    Vehicle - Tesla.

    • +2

      Yeh same.
      Had to pump my tires up a few times.
      People hate the cars but you got to appreciate the costs on running them.

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