• long running

Trade-in a Sungrow Inverter Towards a New Sungrow Hybrid Inverter & Battery System: Apply via Your Solar Installer or Retailer

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Sungrow, Australia’s leading solar inverter and battery brand by market share, has announced the launch of a new trade-in program. Customers can now receive trade-in vouchers valued at up to $1,700 when upgrading to a new Sungrow hybrid inverter and battery system.

With the Australian Federal Battery Rebate prompting widespread system replacements and upgrades, Sungrow’s initiative is designed to ease the financial burden of transitioning to modern, battery-ready solutions.

In some cases, the trade-in value offered is comparable to the cost of the original equipment, delivering exceptional value—particularly for those already considering an upgrade.

Applying for this will be directly through your chosen solar installer/retailer so make sure you mention this in case they aren't aware

To participate, the end-user must:

  • Own the inverter being traded in, and ensure the inverter has been installed on-site for over 3 months.
  • The inverter model must be eligible for the program. Check eligibility here.
  • Purchase and install a qualified Sungrow Hybrid Inverter plus Battery System from an accredited Solar Company.
  • Only one inverter is acceptable for trade-in per site, and the new system must be installed at the same location.
  • Authorize the Solar Company to manage the entire trade-in process, including submission of the application and return of the trade-in inverter.
  • Trade in a unit that meets Sungrow’s return condition criteria, such as being operable and having a visible serial number etc. The inverter must be collected by Sungrow (or its authorised logistics partner).

The eligibility and trade-in value of the inverter are outlined below and are subject to change with prior notice. Terms and conditions apply.

Model Trade-in Value (excl. GST) * Model Trade-in Value (excl. GST) *
SG2K-S $500 SG5KTL-MT $900
SG2KS-S $550 SG10KTL-MT $1000
SG3K-S $600 SG15KTL-M $1100
SG3K-D $650 SG20KTL-M $1200
SG5K-D $800 SH5K-20 $1050
SG8K-D $1000 SH5K-30 $1100
SG2.0RS-S $650 SG5.0RT $1300
SG3.0RS $750 SG7.0RT $1350
SG5.0RS $1000 SG8.0RT $1400
SG5.0RS-ADA $1100 SG10RT $1500
SG8.0RS $1300 SG15RT |$1600
SG10RS $1500 SG20RT $1700

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Comments

  • +1

    How can I apply for it the trade in?

    It says that I'm eligible I'm not quite sure how to actually process the trade in

    • +5

      You apply through your solar/battery installer. They handle the arrangements with Sungrow. See the description in the title's link to Sungrow.

  • +44

    Mate I really appreciate you posting this. We have our battery and hybrid inverter going in in a week, and I had no idea what to do with our inverter. You just gave me ~1k back, which allows us to go the bigger battery size.

    Thank you again.

    • are you getting an isolating inverter so the battery & solar works during a blackout?

      • +1

        Just swapping to a hybrid sungrow from non hybrid to support my battery addition

      • Is that allowed? I didn't think islanding was allowed

        • A few of them (NeoVolt is one) can charge from solar in a black out. Not sure of the technical details.

          • @WhyAmICommenting: Hang on a tick.
            Are you saying that currently, the battery will charge from the grid and NOT from my solar?
            That kinda defeats the purpose for me.
            Is that something to do with safety design, physics or something else?

            • +1

              @Lord Ra: no, it charges from your solar.

            • @Lord Ra: Powerwall can do both. In fact it has a storm function : in anticipation of a storm, it will fill up the battery from Grid power, just in case there is a blackout

        • +1

          absolutely it is, if your inverter supports grid isolation. I've got a solaredge + lg battery and I've been surviving week long blackouts for 3yrs.

          • @M00Cow: I think it depends on installer and local legislation too. In suburban SA I could not set up as you have. Something about electrocuting power line workers on the street if they were working on 'downed' power lines.

            • +2

              @dangerdanger: no, that's why I said isolating inverter.
              When the grid is down, most inverters shutdown, so they don't send power out to the grid (which will cause issues for those working on the outage). Mine is an isolating inverter, which disconnects from the grid, but keeps running. I got a Solaredge+ LG battery because of this. Weirdly It's not a common feature

          • @M00Cow: Wow…3 years is a long blackout…

            • +1

              @jaypow: yep rolling week long blackouts for 3yrs…maybe i should have paid that electricity bill 😋

          • @M00Cow: @M00Cow I have an se hybrid, I'm thinking about getting a battery, but the se batteries are so more more exy compared to the competition. Is your LG AC coupled?

            • @GuniGuGu: i'm fairly certain it's DC coupled. iirc that's why I couldn't get a Tesla PW because it was AC coupled (it was cheaper), but wouldn't be available in a blackout. I had to get an extra SE box installed to handle my LG. But what I like about the LG is the 10yr wty and rated 90% capacity after 10yrs. I believe the SE batteries can be used too?

  • Thanks, It shows I’m eligible. What’s the approximate cost for a 6kw inverter and a battery?

    • +5

      To get a better breakdown of the costs, simply answer these:
      Up front or over 25 years of ownership?
      Your own home or IP up front or over 25 years of ownership?
      Are you factoring STCs or post-July rate changes?
      Single phase or three phase?
      Do you want backup during a blackout or just grid-tied?
      Meter board upgrades needed or nah?
      Is roof access easy or do you need a cherry picker and council permit?
      Battery for self-consumption only, or VPP participation too?
      Do you charge an EV or just want to run your air fryer guilt-free?
      Do you care about payback period or just want to say you have a battery?
      Peak tariff offset, or just trying to zero out a 15c/kWh feed-in?
      Are you factoring inverter trade-in, state rebates, federal rebates, or referral credits? Which ones?
      Want the 5kWh battery now or wait till your future self realises you need 15kWh minimum?
      Are you cool with warranty hoops, or need everything premium and idiot-proof?

  • Will this be anygood for someone with an original 1.5kw 15 year System ?

    • Depends what you mean by 'any good'. Some real questions to consider:
      Is your current system still operational, and is the inverter still compliant with today’s grid standards?
      Are your panels compatible with modern inverters, or would they need full replacement?
      How much solar generation do you actually need now — has your household demand increased since that 1.5kW was installed?
      Are you still on an old high feed-in tariff, and would upgrading void that?
      Do you have enough physical roof space and correct orientation for a larger system or battery install?
      Is your switchboard up to code, or will it need an upgrade (cost factor)?
      Do you want backup power during outages or just daily consumption shifting?
      Are you eligible for any additional state or federal rebates beyond the Sungrow trade-in?
      Would you benefit from a hybrid inverter and battery now, or just a larger inverter with room to expand later?
      Have you had your old system inspected for degradation or safety issues that might push you toward a full replacement anyway?"

      • +1

        Thanks for the detailed reply.Hope it helps someone else
        You are very knowledgeable in this area

        Apologies. I jumped the gun without reading the specifics

        My inverter is a zeever so im definitely not eligible for this deal

    • Is your inverter on the list?

      • No. Just realised has to be on the list

        • +2

          Just FYI, your existing panels won't have good performance compared to modern panels, and that means if you get new/more solar, you will probably want the old ones removed so that the new panels can take their prime position. So if you have 8 panels right now, 1500/8= ~190W panels, whereas modern panels are over 400W each.

          • @neRok: Yes i realise this but we are not big users and we have solar hot water

            Plus thanks to ecconex and welcome bonuses we are cost neutral

            Appreciate the info and will definitely upgrade solar in the future

  • +5

    Can anyone actually justify a battery setup on purely financial terms? Even with the latest rebate I can't seem to make it stack up with less than a 10 year payback period, though not sure if I'm missing something…

    • +3

      "Justify" depends entirely on which spreadsheet you’re squinting at. But if we’re playing the ‘purely financial’ game, then sure, let’s ask some actual questions instead of just vibes: What’s your daily consumption profile? Batteries don’t save money if you barely use power at night.
      Are you on flat, time-of-use, or demand tariffs?
      Have you sized the battery correctly or just picked the shiniest kWh number?
      Did you factor in VPP participation? Some shave years off the payback.
      Did you include avoided peak tariff costs or just average it out lazily?
      Are you using a battery to eliminate grid reliance or just to feel techy?
      Have you factored degradation, warranty terms, and future electricity price hikes?
      Is blackout protection (if included) something you value financially at all — or does that not count in your model?
      Is this for a new build or a retrofit — because install costs change everything?
      Are you ignoring STC and state rebates or did you actually plug them in properly?

      If you're just looking at a payback number in isolation, then yeah — a Tesla Powerwall on flat tariffs probably won’t blow your socks off. But this stuff can stack up fast in the right scenario. You just have to do more than skim a blog and guess.

      • +2

        If you can point me to a more advanced model that is available happy to take a look.

        I received a quote from who installed our original 10.79 kWh system (SolarEdge SE8250, 26x 415w Jinko Solar Tiger Neo). They suggested a SolarEdge BAT-10K1PS0B-01, 9.7kWh battery which would come to $9k installed after rebate…

        I want it to work financially, so keen to use a more advanced model if you can share.

        • +1

          mate - go to Jaycar - they can install 30kw battery for under $6k with rebate, welcome

      • Good questions.

        In some circumstances also an EV that can act as a home battery can even be a better option.

    • Ive calculated between 3 and 6 year payback on a 25kw system Ive been quoted.

      This is based on usage savings and not on VPP income assumptions.

      YMMV

      • +1

        I agree with this, ours is most likely 2- 3 years based on expectations that feed in credit is going to zero and grid prices are going to keep rising at a stupid rate. It is an easy justification for us, to be free of the rip off and control our costs.

        • +1

          Even if feed in goes to zero (and hopefully not going into negative where you have to pay to put back into the grid which I wouldn’t be surprised if the gov tried to pull that on us) and you never used the grid coz you had so much power stored from battery - you’d still be paying the daily supply charge right? Or am I missing something?

          So if daily supply charge is $1 then 30 days average will be $30 a month at least to pay back to energy provider

          • @prankster: Technically yes I think so, but I expect when it gets to that you'll be able to sell your spare battery kw during peak periods for an ok rate which would ideally negate any daily fees

            • @LikezDaBargainz: Yeah that’s alot do configuration on the app if it can do that? Which I don’t think it does? The I solar cloud app

              • @prankster: I think it's all related to provider and what you sign up for. The inverter supports vpp

    • +2

      I requested nem12 data from my electricity provider and then used the solarquotes calculator. Payback on a sigenergy 16kw was 28 years with my existing 10kw panels and usage patterns.. no idea how to model different scenarios like adding more panels, so just grabbed a smart EV charger to enable PV excess charging.

    • +1

      In WA I should be eligible for a $10k 10 year no interest loan for a battery. I'm estimating I will actually be paying less on the loan + new power bill vs what I currently pay per year, so it's an instant savings there. Though still waiting for loans to actually open…

      • When do they open?

        • I'm guessing 1 July, leaving it very late

    • As soon as you decide to buy an EV then ROI is impossible. Only benefit is electricity stability during an outage or off grid setup

      • What do you mean?

        • +1

          I assume they meant that all that excess power that would normally charge your home battery, will now be sucked up by your car battery.

          It definitely changes the equation, but do your own numbers.

          • @ad62623: I don’t know how much power does it take to charge an an EV car at home to full power? 30kwh?

            • +1

              @prankster: We do 8000km a year and easily keep car charged with ~13kWh every couple of days (MG4)

      • +1

        Unless you drive your EV during the day and charge it at night. In that case a battery will allow you to capture your solar and use it for charging car.

    • +1

      Depending on which battery you gets, i personally wouldn't get any fancy brands like tesla and what not, aim for <$500/kwh. If you get something like GoodWe or Sigen, i think your ROI is around 5 years, providing that you can get some good Time of Use tariff like the OvO Ev plan. I'm having a LG 9.8Kwh battery (about 8kwh usable), i reckon winter months, it saves me around $150/months. I charge battery 11am-2pm for free & 4-6am for 8c/kwh. That should cover most of my peak hour usage. Prior the switch, my monthly winter bills (April - August) is around $250-$300 (heating using RC splits + some EV charging). I'm looking at around $120-$150 this month. If i get the Goodwe 22kwh, i'm pretty sure that i only need to draw from free usage and the low tariff time (12-6am). Summer months my bill is around $50-$100 with previous provider, i reckon it will be ranging from +credit to <$50. So for a whole year, i would potentially save > $1000/years (mind you my saving is already based on having batteries, this is just purely moving to Origin to Ovo). Given that the recent goodwe batteries can be had for $5-$6k. you can surely get your ROI within 5 years. The newer batteries also use LFP which should last 15-20 years, my LG battery is 4.5 year old, been cycled daily at least once and health is still around 92%.

      • How do you charge free from 11am-2pm ?

        • OVO and (maybe) AGL “ev” plans. Powershop has 12pm-2pm free on one of theirs.

    • I really do think it depend on how fast fit goes to 0 or from what i read in the past, they charge you to feed in during 11am to 2pm

  • This would not apply to upgrade the inverter only, right? I have an old one which I wouldn't mind upgrading but I have a tesla battery that don't want to change.

    • +3

      This promotion only applies when upgrading both the inverter and adding a Sungrow-compatible battery system. Since you're already using a Tesla Powerwall, which relies on its own closed system and Gateway, it doesn't percolate well with third-party hybrid inverters like Sungrow. The communication protocols and control systems just aren’t designed to sync.

      The rebate is structured to encourage full-system upgrades, not just swapping out an old inverter. The trade-in value only percolates through the system when you're moving to a complete Sungrow hybrid setup. Replacing the inverter alone, while technically feasible, doesn’t meet the program’s criteria.

      It’s worth letting this percolate a bit if you're still considering a system overhaul down the track. But in your current situation, unless you're prepared to replace the Tesla battery too (which it sounds like you're not), the benefits of this trade-in aren’t going to percolate into your setup in any practical way.

      Your best move might be to look at inverter upgrades that maintain Tesla compatibility, though those won't come with a rebate and will need to be weighed on performance and cost alone.

      • Thanks

      • +6

        Do I have to let it percolate? Can I just bring it to a simmer?

        • Sounds so AI written doesn't it..

        • I set myself a writing challenge to use the word 'percolate' a handful of times.

  • Much appreciated and a big thank you as I was vacillating between Sungrow or Goodwe to upgrade to 256kWh battery later this month.
    Reduces the difference in $ and recycles a perfectly food 18 month old inverter.
    Thanks again.

    • Wow Mr big man with a 256kWh battery

  • +1

    Cheapest "battery", if you have kids, have hydronic heating or otherwise use a lot of hot water

    get a large capacity heat-pump water tank. Heat that on a timer during the day. Use water in the evening aso.

    If you do that, most cases adding battery wont make sense.

    • +1

      There are many other devices that use electricity after then sun goes down - not just heat pump water tank. If you’re charging your EV overnight using solar battery then it’s a no brainer

      • +1

        I recon most existing installations are not very big.
        And if they heat water exclusively from solar (and maybe do your dishes and laundry during solar) they wont have enough left over to justify storing in a battery.

        • I recon most existing installations are not very big.

          What are your estimates? The deal support older inverters upto 10kw, which is decent

          • @freeb1e4me: I think most currently existing are really much smaller than 10kW.
            couldn't quickly find data but I'd quess 6kW at most.

      • +1

        If you change your EV overnight, I would recommend an EV electricity tariffs. 8 cents per kWh, 12am-6am. There are several of them on the market.

        • Sure but if you have surplus electricity sitting in your solar battery I would use that first because it’s free

          • +2

            @freeb1e4me: Not exactly free. The battery setup is not cheap.

            • @Cupa Bundy Drinker: Agreed. If EV charging from home battery during 8c/kwh off-peak, it won't make financiall sense and we still have tiny FIt this year.
              I consider the battery size based on peak-hour usage consumption.

              • @BargainKnight: The battery rebate is driving the standard FIT from 4c to 2c/kwh this year

                Having a battery means you no longer care about FIT. You care about feeding your solar battery.

                The solar battery should be used up before the following morning to get the most out of it

            • @Cupa Bundy Drinker: Which is why you use every last bit of it before the battery recharges the following morning. The key point is surplus.

          • +1

            @freeb1e4me: Wow 8c vs how much for a battery? $6K?

            • @eddyah: About $5k for 10kw battery. Please note you’re using free electricity when the sun goes down + blackout ready. It’s not just about charging your EV!

    • +2

      Technically the hydronic (in floor) heating is a thermal battery! Cheapest was up store solar power as thermal energy for heating (or cooling) at night.

      I would know (I have hydronic in floor heating and cooling, as well as a Tesla Powerwall). The hydronic in floor is amazing and I would rank it miles better than a Powerwall battery

      • How much did you pay for your hydronic heating installation? How hard is to find someone who does it?

        • New build, part of the build price

          • @dangerdanger: Alright, but even for a new build, it's an extra inclusion. How much was it? Why so secretive?

            • +1

              @beesider: Because I don't know. Lol! It's been almost a decade since the build. What I do know is that the sum of money was going to be spent anyway.
              a. Cost of [ hydronic heat pump + piping + concrete floors ], or :
              b. Cost of [ heating panels / wooden floors / piping for gas / etc for 'conventional' heating]
              The cost was about the same. So we went with hydronic. Best decision ever when paired with Solar (which we were going to get anyway).

              If you renovate / retrofit, the cost would be much higher compared to hydronic 'from the start' when you pour your slab.

              • @dangerdanger: Thanks. Yeah, a 10 year old price wouldn't be relevant now.

                I'd love to build a new house with hydronic heating and build it the way I want but the problem is that all land for sale is usually in the sticks with no access to public transport. So will be buying a fixer upper in a developed area, but then retrofitting just doesn't make financial sense. The next buyer would never appreciate it and pay an extra when the time comes to sell the house.

  • +2

    Sungrows integration with home assistant sucks…

    • +3

      you have to use modbus to mqtt protocol like sungather add-on to make it reliable. And it's totally free from the cloud.

    • +2

      I chose fronius specifically for home assistant support. Worth every penny

      • Problems is if you want to go dc coupled for fronius the choice is very limited and not cheap.

    • +1

      Sungrow can't even adhere to the WPA spec that was released in 2004 for a device they released in 2019. Doubt they can do anything technical well.

    • I've been very happy with this
      Uses the data from sungrow cloud, via the Dev portal, rather than the data from the local inverter via ethernet etc

      https://community.home-assistant.io/t/home-assistant-communi…

      • So Eth directly from the inverter (no dongle) to a switch (or something) works well?

    • Not really. Works for what I need it to do.

      https://github.com/MickMake/GoSunGrow/

    • Think there’s a discord group that can help out. Think you can maybe find it on whirlpool if the invites still around

    • I’m using the Solariot container to get my data into home assistant.

      Anything less than a 30s poll interval seems to eventually break it, even delaying its regular reporting to the cloud.

      The stupid wifi dongle wasn’t playing nice with my new UniFi access point, until I upgraded the access point to beta firmware.

      So in summary, yes - it’s integration with home assistant does suck.

      • should switch to Sungather, i've been polling my inverter every 10 seconds in the last year and had no issue. And it's totally local not depending on isolarcloud so data still go through when internet is down.

  • Considering the sun light we receive is around 12 hours or less.. And you should know, 3-4 hours of the are barely producing 1000w 6-8am and 5-7pm.
    Solar PV systems are part of the story.
    Might be worth not trading and keeping it in place. Adding more generating systems, PV Solar, wind, etc, etc, etc. All exist.

  • What price can I expect to pay for a 5kw inverter plus, say, a 15kWh battery? My Sungrow inverter is eligible for trade-in but dunno if a Sungrow battery system is going to be good value.

    • +1

      I’m getting Solar installed soon in Brisbane

      Solar panels plus sungrow 5kw inverter and sungrow 12.8kWh battery and it costs us $10.5k

      • $10.5k

        After rebate?

        I've been seeing ads for battery systems sized 20-30kWh for around $5k. What's the catch with those?

        • I think you miss-spelled match as catch.
          Cowboys in action!

          • @Marty156: Took me a bit to remember there are synonyms to the 'match' word. Are they that bad? 😅

            • @ddhar: @ddhar
              Sorry, was meaning about cowboy installers at that price.
              FYIW,
              Have been obtaining quotes recently to update my 10kW inverter to the Hybrid one, the SH10RS and adding the SBR256 (25.6 kWh).
              Then a minor hiccup, it appears that this combination is NOT supported!
              Maximum DC input to new inverter is 460V, the battery with 8 modules si 432-584 V.
              This means that the largest battery can only be with 6 stacks of 19.2 kWh.

              Back to the drawing board, Goodwe might do and it's cheaper.

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