Does anyone have any experience with a budget EV tyre that they would recommend?
E.g. I am considering Forceland VITALITY F22(EV)(W-Silent) around $550 for a set of 4 19inch for my Tesla Long Range. I could not find ANY reviews of these on Google at all for some reason.
I am not keen on paying $1600+ for sports tyres as I drive like a grandma these days. If you have subbed out your original EV tyres for budget ones and are happy with them, please share.
65K or so on a Tesla and wants to cheap out on the only thing connecting it to the road. Insane
OP - cheap tyres are not value for money. Harsh ride, poor grip (dreadful in the wet) and short life span.
Buy something from one of the well known manufacturers
You would be surprised people drop that amount of money then just go on save on the stupidest sht. A mate bought a crappy charging cable ended up costing a home due to fire.
Where was this? Surely it made the news?
@Jackson: dodgy chargers, lithium battery fires, it happens all the time it barely ranks on the news - certainly not national, probably a local rag only
We had a Temu or Aliexpress special someone brought in set a site office on fire at work, so work had to ban people bringing in their own and using proper tested stuff.
What a silly attitude. Assuming that you need to drive illegally to exceed the limits of your tyres is just plain ignorant.
There are any number of situations where having high performance tyres are beneficial during normal driving. Just normal driving in wet conditions can result in traction loss with poor tyres where a quality tyre will maintain grip. A sudden swerve to avoid a person or animal that steps onto the road, or to need to brake heavily to avoid a crash, are situations that any driver can encounter occasionally and in which high quality tyres can make a huge difference to the outcome.
@klaw81: Australian Design Rules (ADRs) for tyres outline mandatory safety standards for tyres fitted to vehicles in Australia. These rules ensure tyres are appropriate for the vehicle's intended use, load, and speed, and that they meet specific performance criteria. Key aspects include load and speed ratings, tyre size, and markings.
Do you honestly think that the Australian government somehow got blindsided and is letting 100s of thousands of potentially unsafe tyres be sold to Australian consumers, that could be putting lives in danger.
Mr Performance in their 80k BMW is probably better of spending the 2.5k on driver tuition and learning how to drive to the prevailing conditions.
@t_c: If you've ever driven on both cheap garbage and good quality tyres on the same car in quick succession, you wouldn't make silly statements like that. The difference in traction, stopping distance and stability during cornering (especially in the wet) is absolutely night and day.
There are plenty of direct comparisons of different tyres on the same car that can give you emperical data on how different their performance can be. For example, I recently read a comparison between various brands where stopping distance was compared on the same car across various brands, which were all Australian Standards compliant but displayed markedly different results - emergency braking from 100km/h in wet conditions where the difference in stopping distance was 24m. That's a massive margin, and the outcome of a real world incident could be very different depending on which tyre was fitted to the car.
When my safety and that of my family is explicitly linked to the quality of my tyres, and it could genuinly make the difference between a near miss and a major collision, I'm absolutely prepared to spend the extra money for quality, even if I'm habitually law abiding.
@klaw81: The public road is not a race track, its for getting from A to B. Maybe you need to save your spirited driving habits around corners and in the wet for the track.
If you feel so strongly that some Australian Standard tyres are not fit for purpose, maybe your efforts would have more impact if you joined the organisation that enacts the standards.
And just because you have 2.5k+ worth of rubber doesn't mean the 2nd party in a accident will.
The public road is not a race track…save your spirited driving habits….for the track.
At what point did I mention racing, or even spirited driving?
Driving on the highway in damp conditions is a common, everyday scenario where entirely legal, sensible driving can still result in a traffic incident. If one set of tyres will allow me a sub-50m stopping distance, and another set of tyres will only afford me 75m, I'm going to buy the better tyres and I'd strongly recommend everyone else do the same.
Obviously I can't control what others do on their cars, but at least my own vehicle will have a decent chance of evading an incident rather than spearing into a wall or a ditch.
If you feel so strongly that some Australian Standard tyres are not fit for purpose
Why don't you have a look at what the Australian regulations relating to tyres actually require? It's all about markings, load and speed ratings, materials and manufacturering tolerances. There are no minimum standards relating to performance under various road conditions, and there are no regulatory barriers to selling tyres that meet the requirements but perform very poorly.
Driving on the highway in damp conditions is a common, everyday scenario where entirely legal, sensible driving can still result in a traffic incident. If one set of tyres will allow me a sub-50m stopping distance, and another set of tyres will only afford me 75m, I'm going to buy the better tyres and I'd strongly recommend everyone else do the same.
Your cherry picking a a scenario, but lets expand on it. Ok you stop short and save your front bumper, but person behind you in 30yo corolla on budget tyres doesnt and ends up with their engine in your boot.
Or scenario 2. Porche in front has 10k tyres and stops short, your now inferior 2.5k set isnt good enough and you rear end the Porche. The truck behind you on retreads is now sitting in your backseat.
If there was statistically better outcomes on more expensive tyres, dont you think insurance companies would be all over it, offering big discounts to upgrade.
Your (sic) cherry picking a a scenario
I'm picking a common, everyday example of needing to perform an emergency stop to avoid an obstacle, and showing how a variable I have full control of can make a difference in that scenario.
Obviously other driver's behaviors and other car's capabilities are out of my control, and that's a risk we all accept when we drive on public roads. Then again, 30% of all vehicle incidents in Australia only involve a single vehicle so my own car's capabilities are a major contributor to my risk.
Also, you have entirely moved the goalposts since your original posts.
@klaw81: @klaw81
You are 100% correct. Word of advice (which alas i can't follow myself but hey be better than me, please! Sometimes you have to agree to disagree. Especially when all and sundry know your argument is rational.)
@t_c
You say he cherry picks an example and then pot calling the kettle black tee up two absolute corkers several levels more removed from reality to retort?
And then state insurance companies would be driving change? LOL why would they….they just put premiums up for all. Why get complex when you can just charge more?
Tyres are simple. Nearly all perform good to great in the dry. But the wheat is separated from the chaff in the wet & also through durability where anything but good ones tend to be one or the other - either cheap and soft (ok in the wet) or cheap and durable/hard(bad in wet). If you know how to use EU labels and UTQG etc maybe you can find a hidden gem. Cool.
But for most folks thats a lucky dip as both systems have significant flaws and so finding that happy spot in the middle might be the safer path. But hey you do you. Tyres are only one part of many factors in determining automotive safety & costs on the road - but they are a very heavily weighted one in many circumstances e.g entering corner with water across road, hard braking on wet surface etc.
You say he cherry picks an example and then pot calling the kettle black tee up two absolute corkers several levels more removed from reality to retort?
I expanded on outcomes for his cherry picked example of "Driving on the highway in damp conditions is a common, everyday scenario". I didn't tee up new examples!
@t_c: Thats how you see it? Fair play but to save us both time we're never getting back as I said, we can agree to disagree.
@Merish4U: I as you, will also be getting 2.5k mid range tyres if I ever smash out med-school. But until then its Winrun r330s FTW.
Maybe I just need to rationalize being poor?
@t_c: Like the last word eh? Cool.
Where are you getting this $2.5k tyres from 'like you'? Hit those books champ, hopefully you're better with those than a vaguely coherant argument here. Rationalise being poor? LOL
@t_c: It is better to remain silent at the risk of being thought a fool, than to talk and remove all doubt of it.
2.5k for a set of 4 mate.
'Mate' ticktock ya don't stop do you? The hint is right there I said 'Tyres'….it's a plural i.e more than 1, even for a full set $2500 is rich unless you're needing big sizings etc.. WTF said anything about $2500 per corner rubber? This is a thread about cheapies vs average - not stuff that goes on Bugatti Veyrons.
Again, perhaps hit those books as your attention to detail here indicates those final Medical exams might be a handful for you. Yikes….
(ADRs) for tyres outline mandatory safety standards for tyres fitted to vehicles in Australia.
Nowhere do the ADRs have a test for minimum stopping distance in dry or wet conditions. In the wet at 80kph the difference in stopping distance between a good tyre and a poor tyre can be a dozen car lengths.
Just cause its a 65k Tesla doesnt mean they are allowed to drive any faster than a 30 year old corolla. Every K over is a killer.
Tyres are used for braking and steering. Good tyres are not necessarily related to driving fast. There is such a thing as "driving to the conditions so even 20kph under the posted limit can be fatal if the conditions are poor.
"every K over is a killer" is just a motherhood statement.
Your willing to drop cash on a tesla
Not with the price cuts, or worse still buying a second hand one, there isn’t that much cash dropped
That aside, tyres and brakes are things not worth skimping on
But I am told by Tesla owners that depreciation isn't that bad? So you are still paying 50k for a used Tesla
Funny how you can drop $60k on a used 5 year old Hilux and people will give you a thumbs up like its good value. Spend 45k on a used model Y that actually suits your city driving needs and you get shamed for splashing out on a Tesla.
OP should have purchased an MG EV with that kind on thinking
Username does not match
I am considering Forceland VITALITY F22(EV)(W-Silent) around $550 for a set of 4 19inch for my Tesla Long Range.
You should reconsider.
I am not keen on paying $1600+ for sports tyres as I drive like a grandma these days.
You not alone, I really wish Tesla drivers would accelerate bit more.
Most I’ve seen drive like fvck wits at traffic lights
They are trying to generate power not breaking down before traffic lights
Trying to save battery life.
Stick muddies on it, so we can here you coming.
Careful with that suggestion. Might end up seeing the car offloading after a software update.
You could pay $1600 for a set of premium tyres for a Tesla LR.
But you could also pay a lot less than $1600 and still get tyres from a brand someone has heard of. Kumho. Yokahama.
All it takes it looking.
So basically it is not worth going cheap on tyres. Ok.
I'll probably go mid-range. I saw in some forums that Hankook EV tyres are the ones to go for, so I think I'll spend the extra $600.
Spread out over 4 years that's $150 per year extra, or around 42c per day. And that's assuming the cheaper tyres will last as long which I doubt.
Thanks
Yes, but as has been established EVs do not inherently NEED special tyres. Good tyres on an ICE vehicle will be equally good on an EV and vice versa. Its largely a marketing tool to convince lazy owners to buy certain tyres.
LOL I am surprised tyre shops aren't pranking soccer Mums in their EVs saying the non-EV tyres have different fittings/connections etc .
Marketers strike yet again.
I think you're incorrect in discounting the affects that added weight & performance play in tyre design. Additonally, EV tyre's don't automatically cost more.
My old Corolla Hybrid (18" 91W) weighed ~1400 KG's and came factory fitted with:
https://www.jaxtyres.com.au/tyres/dunlop/sp-sport-maxx-050?s…
It's EV (18" 98W) replacement weights ~2500 KG's and came fitted with:
https://www.jaxtyres.com.au/tyres/hankook/ventus-s1-evo3-ev-…
The extra 1100KG's of weight, and the far greater torque of the EV would place far greater demands on the tyre's.
@xuqi: Existing tyres don't have weight ratings on them to help with that???
As I have said it's just a dumbed down way folks can know they've been done with EVs in mind. And they generally charge a premium for them.
But it's far from certain there's not umpteen suitable choices already there in non-EV tyres. I am certainly not against EV specific tyres, far from it - I'm just saying the notion I have an EV therefore I can only rationally consider EV specific tyres is utter nonsense.
PS. I wasn't aware Corolla's came in any 100% electric variants?
@xuqi: There is no such a thing as EV tyres.
Tyred in general will have differ tread pattern, and compound. EV tyres tend to have harder compound to offset it's weight as well a less aggressive tread pattern to improve "fuel consumption" by having less rolling resistance. Both sacrifices grip.
Even for the same model of tyre, the "ev version" will also be less grippy.
You’re right that regular tyres will probably be fine on a EV, but EV tyres are optimised for EV’s. Generally they have a lower rolling resistance to increase range, reduced road noise and a slightly higher load rating to allow for the extra weight from the battery.
@Gatto: Point taken but again those are qualities that are NO LESS wanted by regular ICE cars. To imply otherwise is simply not true…rolling resistance, silence, weight carrying etc.
Its just a way of conveniently letting House Wives know that the tyre is suitable for their MG. They will almost certainly say they feel they need an EV specific tyre and they'll be sold one. Its marketing genius and also convenient - like I said not a bad thing necessarily but the OP was (as has bought now) trying to save a buck (or many more really!) and so this is a simple way if you can READ tyre labels and coding to get around that. :-)
Or you can try the cheap tyres if they’re really good you can share with the community the bargain you found.
If they’re no good, then lesson learned. Get the mid range ones and tell people to stay away.
If they’re a new small business, they might have dropped the price to compete (until they get more market share) and once word gets around about their good service/ quality etc. They then increase their prices once they have a good reputation and market penetration.
80-90% of the time you get what you pay for but every now and again you get a gem.
Don't buy sh*t tyres.
They're the only thing keeping 2ish tonnes of metal and you to the ground.
Doesn't have to be sports tyres, or anything to do with 'sporty acceleration', tyres affect stopping distances and safety in dry and especially wet or sub optimat conditions.
In addition, poor quality tyres often wear out faster - or become unsafe faster (I once had a set that were ok when they went on, but were basically undriveable in the wet within ~5000km - I learned my lesson). Broadly speaking better tyres can be more comfortable/less noisy as well, but that's far more subjective.
I'd recommend anyone who doesn't appreciate the value of tyres to go have a look at any number of tyres vs AWD/snow/wet etc tests on youtube etc.
They're the only thing keeping 2ish tonnes of metal and you to the ground.
So gravity is a myth?
Without the tires you are levitating
I agree back to the future predicted levitating cars in 2025
This is heavy.
8 years ago i needed to replace the tyres on my vehicle - Mitsubishi outlander.
I found at set on eBay from a car wrecker vehicle that had been written off with only 8,000 kms on the odometer.
They came with updated rims as well.
From memory they were $550
I sold my old tyres and rims for $150.
I did something similar for my Forester, got better wheels (with near new tyres) from Facebook marketplace.
Need to make sure you know how to check tread wear and manufacturing date on tyres though so not for everyone.
I get sports tyres on the front and eco tyres on the rear. To save even more money I use Macca's trays under the rear tyres to make them last longer.
Having the 'superior' tyres on the front is actually a complete myth. I get the line of thinking and would agree with it myself if i had to rationalise it BUT in reality testing shows the better tyres should be on the rear axle of the vehicle.
Google Gemini says:
When replacing just two tires on a vehicle, the newest or best tires should be fitted to the REAR AXLE, regardless of whether it's front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive, or all-wheel drive. This is primarily for safety reasons, as it helps prevent oversteer and maintains better vehicle stability, especially in wet conditions
I wonder why my local Bridgestone tyre shop insists on putting new ones on the front then…
Its happened to me twice now on my RWD Falcon…
I told them to replace the two rears, and they put the new ones on the front and moved the old front ones to the rear….
Not uncommon. Car dealer workshops also tell me the same thing. That works for FWD as it does not oversteer into a spin and the car can be steered to the correct direction. To certain extend, it is true on rear driven cars as it is assumed you steer and brake at the same time - weight transfers to the front.
Problem with rear propelled vehicle is that, the rear takes over when it acceralate. Less grip at the rear is a recipe for unintended over steering and most drivers will have a panic as soon as it happens. Particularly worse in the rain.
If you drive a rear propelled car, safer with more grip at the back.
McHappy wheels?
I use Macca's trays under the rear tyres to make them last longer.
How do you use Macca's trays under the rear tyres? Can you provide a MS paint diagram?
This subject is done to death. There are so many rando branded tryres swamping our shores at very low prices it's really near impossible to be sure what youre getting. Just about everything will be fine in the dry but its in the wet and through overall durability that quality tyres earn their price tag.
To me if you price out the lifespan of tyres - it's a small price to pay to go for something mid-range. I know saving money is fun but the costs of an accident or just not enjoying driving in the wet as you know how badly they handle is not worth it.
If you really want to save $$$ check classifieds & FB marketplace as near new tyres are sold all the time by wreckers and folks changing to different rims sizes etc.
But joping you can pick a decent brand amongst the scores of generic ones on the market seems very optimistic…especially as you have a pricey car. :-)
I agree with your comment. If you drive like a grandpa (with due care), not tailgating, or not driving like Tozzer. El Chipo tyres are good enough. It may wear off quicker, but not x4 faster, then again some expensive soft tires wear off quicker as well, as they are designed for better grip in wet and lower road noise. Then again, EV has higher torque than ICE, so not sure how that's going to affect your el chipo tyers.
Yes and no to me - I think the whole 'If you drive like a Granny cheapies ar ok' is a trap. It rains for Grannies too. Idiots step out in front of Grannies too. Other vehicles pull out in front of them too etc.
If you view the real world testing results for wet and even dry performance for any number of those Yumcha tyres - they're so much worse than established brands. Its not uncommon to see 100%+ braking distances for them - which is life and death stuff quite often.
And regarding softer compound/expensive tyres etc - I don't think in reality there's many folks who are considering either Pirelli P-Zeros or Yumcha randoms. Folks who want 'soft' performance tyres are buying them and tend to KNOW their tyres. The whole cheapie thing tends to be done most by Joe Average…..who unironically tends to need, average tyres….not performance ones.
As has been said there are many things you can save $$$ on - for your car and elsewhere. But tyres as the place to save is a FALSE ECONOMY, in my opinion as at best your car will just be crappier to drive - at worst you may have massive consequences &/or costs.
Save on other stuff. Not tyres. Its simple stuff.
What if you, with your top-of-the-range tyres, breaks in a short distance, and the car behind you with Yumcha tyres on a rainy day:)
@boomramada: Hmmmm who is talking about 'top of the range' tyres? Not me, I'd lose my membership here and there's a big price range between the cheaper yumchas and top of the range tyres I mean you're looking at 5x the price or more - so it's in the middle where I'd be looking. Right where the Law of diminishing marginal returns often applies.
But sure……well as I am sure you know it's bloody hard to be responsible for a crash where you are hit from behind (unless you're changing lanes etc). So thats kind of an open and shut one as to who is liable. And if your vehicle is going to be hit anywhere, well I'd say thats likely the best place for most of us.
But yeah, especially as everyone likes to drive waaaaaay closer than is recommended on your driving test, thats very possible….but I don't thnk it's much of a risk that would or should be factored into not having yumchas on one's car for the next 2-3yrs after you realise how bad they are.
Check the classifieds, there's always 'near brand new' yumchas being sold off - which is I suspect as folks realise they're horrendous.
I hate to use a corporate slogan but as they use to say,"If it only saves you once a year, it's a Goodyear!"
PS. Michelin man myself.
You never mentioned the exact size you have, so i had to assume:
235/40R19
Okay price* $200 ish per corner
BFGoodrich advantage control / UTQG 600
Best price/perf* - my pick - $100 ish per corner
Mazzini ECO 602 XL / UTQG 480
I don't even look at tyres that don't state their UTQG rating. My opinion on this is to skip any tyre that gives no rating.
Don't let people con you into thinking spending more is going to make all the difference. Its not. The differences are very minor for the same type of tyre, and mostly come down to softer vs harder compounds.
Use Tyroola. Buy 5-6 tyres (as they're cheap enough). Have one or two spare at home, just in case you get a puncture, or some damage, as it saves time and hassle if/when the time comes. Proper tyre repairs are around $40 or so, per puncture.
Depending on how desperately you need tyres (I'm guessing pretty desperate if you're considering these), wait for black Friday. MyCar and Bob Jane generally have 40-50% off, I bought a set of pirelli scorpions for $750. Not the best tyre in the wet but it is very quiet.
Otherwise just set an alert on here, paying full price for tyres is silly.
I can wait a few months, although will be cutting it a bit fine. Thanks for the tip.
Check out Tempe tyres. Got some good Kumho from them for my ute at a fantastic price. They have braches all over Australia.
Agree. I recommend Kumho PS71, from Tempe Tyres, free fitting and balancing.
I've got Falken Azenis FK520Ls on my Model 3 Performance and they're great. I haven't had any grip issues and they're quieter than the factory P Zeros. Cost $250/corner inc. fitting in 235/35/20.
https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/Best-Performance-Summ…
These actually look decent, but how long do you expect this tyre to last compared to the P Zeros.
I have the original PZeros now and still have a couple of mm above the tread wear notch at 47000 kms.
Wild, I only got 30,000 out of mine and I thought that was good.
I'm about 10,000k in now on the Falkens, I'll have to measure the tread depth and report back but according to TyreReview, the FK520 is expected to last longer then the newer PZ4.
Winrun is not expensive, but has good reviews globally
Tyre deals
1) https://actyres.com.au/productdetail/?id=dceb574a42553ef905a…
2) https://www.tyroola.com.au/v1-winrun-r-330-25545r19-104w-ty5…
Review on Tesla Y (overseas)
1) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFhkF2vAaSQ
2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP4gCHpP7NE
Winrun are not expensive because they are terrible tyres, I have had a couple of sets of the R330 years ago but no way would I put them on an EV
You say they have good reviews but on tyroola so do Grenlander, Rapid, Zmax and every other bottom of the barrel brand.
OP Would be better off at looking at something like Kuhmo HP71
+1 to what @Brick50 says - I mean really are we placing that much stock in completely unaudited or proveable feedback? And this is fair one way or the other. Nobody has any idea if it's true, completely made up or posted by an expert or a twonker.
Its known how companies and businesses pay 3rd parties to lodge positive feedback. Making out this is 'See, I rest my case' is a tad optimistic. Use the EU labels and UQTG to get a better idea. Also if a deal seems too good to be true e.g they're $100 each but have amazing reviews for ther wet handling - it's likely baloney.
I wonder if these people who suggest cheap tyres are unsafe would also make similar statements if OP said he wanted to get a 30 year old Nissan.
I think there's an argument for price/risk and OP is entitled to make that choice. Given what OP has said, he clearly understands the limitations of his choices and thats the most important thing. Driving behaviour> tyre choice, and if buying cheap tyres dramatically influences (a more conservative) driver behavour then all the better I say.
Not only that, but like everyone is saying to get the iPhone 20 maxxxXX when the Xiaomi dual Sim Note whatever is on par plus has some better features too and only a quarter of the price. I have used Winrun 330XL for 15years without any problems. I don't see the value in getting soft compound Pirelli's or Michelin's that last half the km's of the Winrun but cost twice as much.
You may as well get a head start and try them out, you next EV will be fully from China.
Odds are his Tesla is already fully from China - the majority of Tesla cars on Australian roads are made in the Shanghai factory. And they're well known for being much higher quality of finish than the USA-sourced models.
That said, the stock tires on Australian models are from Michelin and Yokohama.
I think you mean Michelin and Hankook.
My wife's EV had budget tyres from factory. They're shit. And that car is lighter and much less powerful than a Tesla. They would break traction in the wet -all the time- and it took much longer to stop.
If you want cheaper tyres, see if you can get yourself a set of 18" OEM wheels second hand. The tyres are quite a lot cheaper and you used to be able to sell the 19's for more than the cost of a set of 18's.
Are you sure it isn't from the car being a front wheel drive?
What replacement tyre did you get?
Pirelli.
What car and tyres?
Ora, replaced Giti with Pirelli
Hey guess what? You dont need to buy tyres with EV name on them.
Other than getting the right size, you need to ensure the Load Rating of the tyre matches or exceeds the numbers on the specs. You can find this on the center pillar of your Tesla. Open the door and you will find it.
If you are not hitting the racing tracks you don't have to worry about speed ratings, won't be driving any where max limits of normal tyres for Aussie roads unless you are unmarked police car.
Now you don't have to limit yourself to EV tyres you have much wider choice of performance tyres.
All true. As long as you have an idea about tyre markings, grades etc - then it's easy enough to find suitable ones for an EV - but the sellers dumb it down and user will pay the lazy tax and have a much more limited range.
Tyres are very misunderstood by many. I mean 90% of folks religiously insist on putting the EXACT size on it came from the factory with, right? If it came in 225/45/17 it must stay in that? NO
Cars have a degree of flexibility in what they can and should ahve put on them and SOMETIMES (not always) chaging up this sizing slightly, which makes the prices alot cheaper . A good tyre seller will prompt you on this but I've never seen it.
My car came with 225/45/17 from the factory but I can legally in NSW run around a dozen different sizings e.g 235/40/17, 215/50/17 etc.
This site is very instructive in helping you see the likely outcomes of changing sizes, which CAN affect pricing and also give better performance for your needs e.g I live rural, crap roads, so I prefer more sidewall on the tyres - hence moved to a 205/55/17.
Enjoy and understand if before you change sizes - a good tyre place will give you feedback on your plans!
https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/
PS. And if you're so serious about your tyres that you're even considering Yumcha ones - are you doing the proven things to make them last better like rotating them every 10k? Including the spare! And running them at the tyre makers recommended pressures (NOT the car makers, who just want a soft ride!) 38-40psi. People don't do those and wonder why tyres don't last. Go figure.
I agree with your statement but are you aware about the substantial difference "Non EV" tyres can have on rolling resistance and effiency?
They keep blowing trumpets in regard to EV tyres having better efficiency and lower rolling resistance… So ICE car tyres are not efficient at all? Nobody gives a flying f about fuel efficiency?
You can't make a tyre more efficient without sacrificing other factors. That's also why you won't see sports and performance vehicles on EV tyres.
Please look up real world differences before you comment
Also consider EV tyres are running around 45psi so very difference characteristics
@Brick50: 45psi? Goodness. Dont go near 50psi (cold), many passenger tyres are limited at 50psi.
Many EV manufacturers recommend 36-40psi, and adding 2 more on top will give a more bouncy character.
Your willing to drop cash on a tesla but not your safety?
Man people are weird…
FWIW
Even grandmas need grip in the rain and the occasional hard braking ability.