Does anyone have any experience with a budget EV tyre that they would recommend?
E.g. I am considering Forceland VITALITY F22(EV)(W-Silent) around $550 for a set of 4 19inch for my Tesla Long Range. I could not find ANY reviews of these on Google at all for some reason.
I am not keen on paying $1600+ for sports tyres as I drive like a grandma these days. If you have subbed out your original EV tyres for budget ones and are happy with them, please share.
65K or so on a Tesla and wants to cheap out on the only thing connecting it to the road. Insane
OP - cheap tyres are not value for money. Harsh ride, poor grip (dreadful in the wet) and short life span.
Buy something from one of the well known manufacturers
You would be surprised people drop that amount of money then just go on save on the stupidest sht. A mate bought a crappy charging cable ended up costing a home due to fire.
Where was this? Surely it made the news?
Just cause its a 65k Tesla doesnt mean they are allowed to drive any faster than a 30 year old corolla. Every K over is a killer.
Spending big bucks on tyres doesnt magically make up for someone breaking the law!
What a silly attitude. Assuming that you need to drive illegally to exceed the limits of your tyres is just plain ignorant.
There are any number of situations where having high performance tyres are beneficial during normal driving. Just normal driving in wet conditions can result in traction loss with poor tyres where a quality tyre will maintain grip. A sudden swerve to avoid a person or animal that steps onto the road, or to need to brake heavily to avoid a crash, are situations that any driver can encounter occasionally and in which high quality tyres can make a huge difference to the outcome.
@klaw81: Australian Design Rules (ADRs) for tyres outline mandatory safety standards for tyres fitted to vehicles in Australia. These rules ensure tyres are appropriate for the vehicle's intended use, load, and speed, and that they meet specific performance criteria. Key aspects include load and speed ratings, tyre size, and markings.
Do you honestly think that the Australian government somehow got blindsided and is letting 100s of thousands of potentially unsafe tyres be sold to Australian consumers, that could be putting lives in danger.
Mr Performance in their 80k BMW is probably better of spending the 2.5k on driver tuition and learning how to drive to the prevailing conditions.
@t_c: If you've ever driven on both cheap garbage and good quality tyres on the same car in quick succession, you wouldn't make silly statements like that. The difference in traction, stopping distance and stability during cornering (especially in the wet) is absolutely night and day.
There are plenty of direct comparisons of different tyres on the same car that can give you emperical data on how different their performance can be. For example, I recently read a comparison between various brands where stopping distance was compared on the same car across various brands, which were all Australian Standards compliant but displayed markedly different results - emergency braking from 100km/h in wet conditions where the difference in stopping distance was 24m. That's a massive margin, and the outcome of a real world incident could be very different depending on which tyre was fitted to the car.
When my safety and that of my family is explicitly linked to the quality of my tyres, and it could genuinly make the difference between a near miss and a major collision, I'm absolutely prepared to spend the extra money for quality, even if I'm habitually law abiding.
@klaw81: The public road is not a race track, its for getting from A to B. Maybe you need to save your spirited driving habits around corners and in the wet for the track.
If you feel so strongly that some Australian Standard tyres are not fit for purpose, maybe your efforts would have more impact if you joined the organisation that enacts the standards.
And just because you have 2.5k+ worth of rubber doesn't mean the 2nd party in a accident will.
The public road is not a race track…save your spirited driving habits….for the track.
At what point did I mention racing, or even spirited driving?
Driving on the highway in damp conditions is a common, everyday scenario where entirely legal, sensible driving can still result in a traffic incident. If one set of tyres will allow me a sub-50m stopping distance, and another set of tyres will only afford me 75m, I'm going to buy the better tyres and I'd strongly recommend everyone else do the same.
Obviously I can't control what others do on their cars, but at least my own vehicle will have a decent chance of evading an incident rather than spearing into a wall or a ditch.
If you feel so strongly that some Australian Standard tyres are not fit for purpose
Why don't you have a look at what the Australian regulations relating to tyres actually require? It's all about markings, load and speed ratings, materials and manufacturering tolerances. There are no minimum standards relating to performance under various road conditions, and there are no regulatory barriers to selling tyres that meet the requirements but perform very poorly.
(ADRs) for tyres outline mandatory safety standards for tyres fitted to vehicles in Australia.
Nowhere do the ADRs have a test for minimum stopping distance in dry or wet conditions. In the wet at 80kph the difference in stopping distance between a good tyre and a poor tyre can be a dozen car lengths.
Just cause its a 65k Tesla doesnt mean they are allowed to drive any faster than a 30 year old corolla. Every K over is a killer.
Tyres are used for braking and steering. Good tyres are not necessarily related to driving fast. There is such a thing as "driving to the conditions so even 20kph under the posted limit can be fatal if the conditions are poor.
"every K over is a killer" is just a motherhood statement.
Your willing to drop cash on a tesla
Not with the price cuts, or worse still buying a second hand one, there isn’t that much cash dropped
That aside, tyres and brakes are things not worth skimping on
But I am told by Tesla owners that depreciation isn't that bad? So you are still paying 50k for a used Tesla
Funny how you can drop $60k on a used 5 year old Hilux and people will give you a thumbs up like its good value. Spend 45k on a used model Y that actually suits your city driving needs and you get shamed for splashing out on a Tesla.
OP should have purchased an MG EV with that kind on thinking
Stick muddies on it, so we can here you coming.
I am not keen on paying $1600+ for sports tyres as I drive like a grandma these days.
You not alone, I really wish Tesla drivers would accelerate bit more.
Most I’ve seen drive like fvck wits at traffic lights
They are trying to generate power not breaking down before traffic lights
Trying to save battery life.
I am considering Forceland VITALITY F22(EV)(W-Silent) around $550 for a set of 4 19inch for my Tesla Long Range.
You should reconsider.
You could pay $1600 for a set of premium tyres for a Tesla LR.
But you could also pay a lot less than $1600 and still get tyres from a brand someone has heard of. Kumho. Yokahama.
All it takes it looking.
Don't buy sh*t tyres.
They're the only thing keeping 2ish tonnes of metal and you to the ground.
Doesn't have to be sports tyres, or anything to do with 'sporty acceleration', tyres affect stopping distances and safety in dry and especially wet or sub optimat conditions.
In addition, poor quality tyres often wear out faster - or become unsafe faster (I once had a set that were ok when they went on, but were basically undriveable in the wet within ~5000km - I learned my lesson). Broadly speaking better tyres can be more comfortable/less noisy as well, but that's far more subjective.
I'd recommend anyone who doesn't appreciate the value of tyres to go have a look at any number of tyres vs AWD/snow/wet etc tests on youtube etc.
They're the only thing keeping 2ish tonnes of metal and you to the ground.
So gravity is a myth?
Without the tires you are levitating
@sm3llycat You are getting some harsh comments. There is nothing wrong with getting affordable tyres for your EV. Try googling “cheap tyres”. If you really want to save try salvaging some used tyres from a tyre shop. Get an angle grinder out and carve out some fresh grooves!
They make tyre regrooving tools for this purpose, the rubber would melt and get stuck on your angle grinder.
the rubber would melt and get stuck on your angle grinder.
All good just don’t go too deep with the grooves
Maybe a circular saw with a fine tooth blade would be a better choice, can set the depth that way.
Get an angle grinder out and carve out some fresh grooves!
I used a circular saw to regroove some tyres once
You may as well get a head start and try them out, you next EV will be fully from China.
Odds are his Tesla is already fully from China - the majority of Tesla cars on Australian roads are made in the Shanghai factory. And they're well known for being much higher quality of finish than the USA-sourced models.
That said, the stock tires on Australian models are from Michelin and Yokohama.
8 years ago i needed to replace the tyres on my vehicle - Mitsubishi outlander.
I found at set on eBay from a car wrecker vehicle that had been written off with only 8,000 kms on the odometer.
They came with updated rims as well.
From memory they were $550
I sold my old tyres and rims for $150.
I get sports tyres on the front and eco tyres on the rear. To save even more money I use Macca's trays under the rear tyres to make them last longer.
I use Macca's trays under the rear tyres to make them last longer.
How do you use Macca's trays under the rear tyres? Can you provide a MS paint diagram?
McHappy wheels?
Having the 'superior' tyres on the front is actually a complete myth. I get the line of thinking and would agree with it myself if i had to rationalise it BUT in reality testing shows the better tyres should be on the rear axle of the vehicle.
Google Gemini says:
When replacing just two tires on a vehicle, the newest or best tires should be fitted to the REAR AXLE, regardless of whether it's front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive, or all-wheel drive. This is primarily for safety reasons, as it helps prevent oversteer and maintains better vehicle stability, especially in wet conditions
Don't buy cheap tyres. There's a reason why they're cheap. Lower grip in wet conditions and wheel spin on painted lines.
There's no reason to buy 'Sport' tyres. They're a bit grippier, but they also wear out faster. Buy a set of tyres from an established brand that people have actually heard of.
So basically it is not worth going cheap on tyres. Ok.
I'll probably go mid-range. I saw in some forums that Hankook EV tyres are the ones to go for, so I think I'll spend the extra $600.
Spread out over 4 years that's $150 per year extra, or around 42c per day. And that's assuming the cheaper tyres will last as long which I doubt.
Thanks
Yes, but as has been established EVs do not inherently NEED special tyres. Good tyres on an ICE vehicle will be equally good on an EV and vice versa. Its largely a marketing tool to convince lazy owners to buy certain tyres.
LOL I am surprised tyre shops aren't pranking soccer Mums in their EVs saying the non-EV tyres have different fittings/connections etc .
Marketers strike yet again.
I think you're incorrect in discounting the affects that added weight & performance play in tyre design. Additonally, EV tyre's don't automatically cost more.
My old Corolla Hybrid (18" 91W) weighed ~1400 KG's and came factory fitted with:
https://www.jaxtyres.com.au/tyres/dunlop/sp-sport-maxx-050?s…
It's EV (18" 98W) replacement weights ~2500 KG's and came fitted with:
https://www.jaxtyres.com.au/tyres/hankook/ventus-s1-evo3-ev-…
The extra 1100KG's of weight, and the far greater torque of the EV would place far greater demands on the tyre's.
@xuqi: Existing tyres don't have weight ratings on them to help with that???
As I have said it's just a dumbed down way folks can know they've been done with EVs in mind. And they generally charge a premium for them.
But it's far from certain there's not umpteen suitable choices already there in non-EV tyres. I am certainly not against EV specific tyres, far from it - I'm just saying the notion I have an EV therefore I can only rationally consider EV specific tyres is utter nonsense.
PS. I wasn't aware Corolla's came in any 100% electric variants?
You’re right that regular tyres will probably be fine on a EV, but EV tyres are optimised for EV’s. Generally they have a lower rolling resistance to increase range, reduced road noise and a slightly higher load rating to allow for the extra weight from the battery.
@Gatto: Point taken but again those are qualities that are NO LESS wanted by regular ICE cars. To imply otherwise is simply not true…rolling resistance, silence, weight carrying etc.
Its just a way of conveniently letting House Wives know that the tyre is suitable for their MG. They will almost certainly say they feel they need an EV specific tyre and they'll be sold one. Its marketing genius and also convenient - like I said not a bad thing necessarily but the OP was (as has bought now) trying to save a buck (or many more really!) and so this is a simple way if you can READ tyre labels and coding to get around that. :-)
Depending on how desperately you need tyres (I'm guessing pretty desperate if you're considering these), wait for black Friday. MyCar and Bob Jane generally have 40-50% off, I bought a set of pirelli scorpions for $750. Not the best tyre in the wet but it is very quiet.
Otherwise just set an alert on here, paying full price for tyres is silly.
I can wait a few months, although will be cutting it a bit fine. Thanks for the tip.
You can feel the difference, and especially the braking distance between decent and budget tyres. While I don't own a Tesla, I was running Michelin PS4S on a small hatch, then changed to some Opals FH888. I reckon it takes an extra metre to stop the car at the same speed when using the budget tyres. Maybe all it takes is a single metre between you screaming at the dipshit for cutting in front of you or rear-ending the dipshit.
There’s a few things you don’t cheap out on. Tyres is definitely one of them, the other is a mattress
This subject is done to death. There are so many rando branded tryres swamping our shores at very low prices it's really near impossible to be sure what youre getting. Just about everything will be fine in the dry but its in the wet and through overall durability that quality tyres earn their price tag.
To me if you price out the lifespan of tyres - it's a small price to pay to go for something mid-range. I know saving money is fun but the costs of an accident or just not enjoying driving in the wet as you know how badly they handle is not worth it.
If you really want to save $$$ check classifieds & FB marketplace as near new tyres are sold all the time by wreckers and folks changing to different rims sizes etc.
But joping you can pick a decent brand amongst the scores of generic ones on the market seems very optimistic…especially as you have a pricey car. :-)
I agree with your comment. If you drive like a grandpa (with due care), not tailgating, or not driving like Tozzer. El Chipo tyres are good enough. It may wear off quicker, but not x4 faster, then again some expensive soft tires wear off quicker as well, as they are designed for better grip in wet and lower road noise. Then again, EV has higher torque than ICE, so not sure how that's going to affect your el chipo tyers.
Yes and no to me - I think the whole 'If you drive like a Granny cheapies ar ok' is a trap. It rains for Grannies too. Idiots step out in front of Grannies too. Other vehicles pull out in front of them too etc.
If you view the real world testing results for wet and even dry performance for any number of those Yumcha tyres - they're so much worse than established brands. Its not uncommon to see 100%+ braking distances for them - which is life and death stuff quite often.
And regarding softer compound/expensive tyres etc - I don't think in reality there's many folks who are considering either Pirelli P-Zeros or Yumcha randoms. Folks who want 'soft' performance tyres are buying them and tend to KNOW their tyres. The whole cheapie thing tends to be done most by Joe Average…..who unironically tends to need, average tyres….not performance ones.
As has been said there are many things you can save $$$ on - for your car and elsewhere. But tyres as the place to save is a FALSE ECONOMY, in my opinion as at best your car will just be crappier to drive - at worst you may have massive consequences &/or costs.
Save on other stuff. Not tyres. Its simple stuff.
What if you, with your top-of-the-range tyres, breaks in a short distance, and the car behind you with Yumcha tyres on a rainy day:)
@boomramada: Hmmmm who is talking about 'top of the range' tyres? Not me, I'd lose my membership here and there's a big price range between the cheaper yumchas and top of the range tyres I mean you're looking at 5x the price or more - so it's in the middle where I'd be looking. Right where the Law of diminishing marginal returns often applies.
But sure……well as I am sure you know it's bloody hard to be responsible for a crash where you are hit from behind (unless you're changing lanes etc). So thats kind of an open and shut one as to who is liable. And if your vehicle is going to be hit anywhere, well I'd say thats likely the best place for most of us.
But yeah, especially as everyone likes to drive waaaaaay closer than is recommended on your driving test, thats very possible….but I don't thnk it's much of a risk that would or should be factored into not having yumchas on one's car for the next 2-3yrs after you realise how bad they are.
Check the classifieds, there's always 'near brand new' yumchas being sold off - which is I suspect as folks realise they're horrendous.
I hate to use a corporate slogan but as they use to say,"If it only saves you once a year, it's a Goodyear!"
PS. Michelin man myself.
Costco.
My wife's EV had budget tyres from factory. They're shit. And that car is lighter and much less powerful than a Tesla. They would break traction in the wet -all the time- and it took much longer to stop.
If you want cheaper tyres, see if you can get yourself a set of 18" OEM wheels second hand. The tyres are quite a lot cheaper and you used to be able to sell the 19's for more than the cost of a set of 18's.
What replacement tyre did you get?
What car and tyres?
Are you sure it isn't from the car being a front wheel drive?
I was dubious about cheap tyre, but after having good experience with Zeta tyres, even trying to slide the car out in the wet I run them on all my cars.
In Melbourne I use Motorsport wheels and tyres.
Always have stock, excellent customer facilities with desks, free drinks and the place is huge.
Ev tires? Didn’t know that was a thing
Yes, built to take the heavier cars. Some also have extra sound deadening. (EVs tend to run very quietly and road noise etc is more apparent)
EV car tyres are different to ICE car tyres? Yes honest question.
I own a phev and it has standard tyres I believe
Essentially, they're tyres to handle the extra weight of the batteries.
they're tyres to handle the extra weight of the batteries
No. Tyres have had both speed and weight ratings for decades, and EVs just require a tyre with the appropriate speed and weight ratings. For example, a Tesla Model 3 RWD and a BMW 3 series have similar speed and weight class requirements, and it's perfectly legal to use the same tyres on both vehicles.
The major differences in EV tyres are around reducing rolling resistance to improve range, and to reduce the road noise that's much more apparent in a vehicle with virtually zero drivetrain noise.
Tyres are optimised for different uses. Performance. Wet grip. Low noise. Long life. There's no fundamental difference required for EV tyres, but offering ones optimised for EVs gives them an opportunity to sell them at a premium price.
EVs have no engine noise, so tyres for them need to be optimised for low road noise or you'd really notice the tyre noise. EVs produce a lot of torque from a standing start, so tyres for them have to be optimised for that. EVs are heavy, so they have to have a high load rating.
But fit standard tyres, and most people wouldn't notice the difference, or care. Especially if they just drive around town, and like a grandma.
Check out Tempe tyres. Got some good Kumho from them for my ute at a fantastic price. They have braches all over Australia.
I've got Falken Azenis FK520Ls on my Model 3 Performance and they're great. I haven't had any grip issues and they're quieter than the factory P Zeros. Cost $250/corner inc. fitting in 235/35/20.
https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/Best-Performance-Summ…
These actually look decent, but how long do you expect this tyre to last compared to the P Zeros.
I have the original PZeros now and still have a couple of mm above the tread wear notch at 47000 kms.
Wild, I only got 30,000 out of mine and I thought that was good.
I'm about 10,000k in now on the Falkens, I'll have to measure the tread depth and report back but according to TyreReview, the FK520 is expected to last longer then the newer PZ4.
I've seen this. The reason the Winruns have better range is they are harder and less grippy, so these will be much more slippery in the wet. See hard braking/safety comments above…
Winruns are taxi drivers favourite for a reason.
Interested to see what you find in the mid range. My Y RWD 19" factory tyres have just passed 43k and I will have to replace them in the next few mths.
I rotated the tyres on my LR last year to give them extra life. The rears went to the front and vice versa (criss cross). The wear on them is about even.
Hey guess what? You dont need to buy tyres with EV name on them.
Other than getting the right size, you need to ensure the Load Rating of the tyre matches or exceeds the numbers on the specs. You can find this on the center pillar of your Tesla. Open the door and you will find it.
If you are not hitting the racing tracks you don't have to worry about speed ratings, won't be driving any where max limits of normal tyres for Aussie roads unless you are unmarked police car.
Now you don't have to limit yourself to EV tyres you have much wider choice of performance tyres.
All true. As long as you have an idea about tyre markings, grades etc - then it's easy enough to find suitable ones for an EV - but the sellers dumb it down and user will pay the lazy tax and have a much more limited range.
Tyres are very misunderstood by many. I mean 90% of folks religiously insist on putting the EXACT size on it came from the factory with, right? If it came in 225/45/17 it must stay in that? NO
Cars have a degree of flexibility in what they can and should ahve put on them and SOMETIMES (not always) chaging up this sizing slightly, which makes the prices alot cheaper . A good tyre seller will prompt you on this but I've never seen it.
My car came with 225/45/17 from the factory but I can legally in NSW run around a dozen different sizings e.g 235/40/17, 215/50/17 etc.
This site is very instructive in helping you see the likely outcomes of changing sizes, which CAN affect pricing and also give better performance for your needs e.g I live rural, crap roads, so I prefer more sidewall on the tyres - hence moved to a 205/55/17.
Enjoy and understand if before you change sizes - a good tyre place will give you feedback on your plans!
https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/
PS. And if you're so serious about your tyres that you're even considering Yumcha ones - are you doing the proven things to make them last better like rotating them every 10k? Including the spare! And running them at the tyre makers recommended pressures (NOT the car makers, who just want a soft ride!) 38-40psi. People don't do those and wonder why tyres don't last. Go figure.
Just go a mid-spec tyre like a Kumho. Those uber cheap tyres are a false economy as they wear much faster
You never mentioned the exact size you have, so i had to assume:
235/40R19
Okay price* $200 ish per corner
BFGoodrich advantage control / UTQG 600
Best price/perf* - my pick - $100 ish per corner
Mazzini ECO 602 XL / UTQG 480
I don't even look at tyres that don't state their UTQG rating. My opinion on this is to skip any tyre that gives no rating.
Don't let people con you into thinking spending more is going to make all the difference. Its not. The differences are very minor for the same type of tyre, and mostly come down to softer vs harder compounds.
Use Tyroola. Buy 5-6 tyres (as they're cheap enough). Have one or two spare at home, just in case you get a puncture, or some damage, as it saves time and hassle if/when the time comes. Proper tyre repairs are around $40 or so, per puncture.
Oofy, good point on using UTQG ratings.
To be fair I don't thnk anyone is saying the price ALONE is in itself alone a guarantee of performance - as with any good or service. But it's highly likely superior ….particularly as pertains to wet weather performance. Do you have any testing to back up your assertion - so where very cheap tyres have been competitive with even midrange ones in the wet.
As even if there are the odd examples of this - which I WOULD expect - the vast majority is to the opposite i.e they're very much inferior. So picking the half decent rare ones from the majority of sub-par ones is a tad hard.
If you buy 6 tyres…what good is it to you if you get a flat, being that it's not on a rim? Changing a tyre over onto a rim is barely faster than a repair and the cost is also not much different (your cited $40 each time vs $20-25 for switch/balance etc).
And I will note the OP a long time back said they'd decided what they were buying - some mid range thing from Kumho or Hankook IIRC.
All-season like for like. Maybe some symmetrical tyres with a treadwear rating closest to 100 would help, but I don't think that's a good idea for various reasons.
Even some hard, bottom of the barrell AT tyres (if they made them for this vehicle at this size), would eat all-season tyres alive as for wet grip.
Its a good idea to have spare tyres so you can put your vehicle spare on, save the old rim for the shop, then get it changed right over to a new tyre you have at home. I think it makes a lot of sense.
Oh while as I conceded earlier UTDQ ratings are handy - interestingly they're done SOLELY by the manufacturers i.e some might not be accurate.
EU labels though are regarded as superior as they are done by independant 3rd parties.
Its not unusual to find them both given for some tyres and oddly they will conflict with each other the UTDQ label indicating good wet grip but the EU label saying otherwise.
https://www.reddit.com/r/TyreReviews/comments/1ew2lpp/euro_l…
But Oofy makes a good point and when you refer to BOTH of them they are handy for maybe finding some value in unfamiliar brands or models.
Wait for the Pirelli sales or "4 for 3" sales.
wouldn't the 50% off boxing day sale be better
Anyone know what the Maxxis EV tyres are like? My local suggested these as they are 375, per tyre for my model Y
I drive like a grandma these days
So you get the pedals mixed up?
Those tyres according to Eprel European Union testing REGULATION (EU) 2020/740 on the labelling of tyres with respect to fuel efficiency and other parameters rated those tyres very highly for wet grip giving a B rating.( A being the highest possible)
So for all those that tell you need to buy brand name tyres all the time or risk your life just do bit your own research and you can save lot of money
Many of the Forceland Vitality F22 scored “ B” plus rating for wet grip.
Tempe tyres has them for $155 fitting and balancing included.
https://www.tempetyres.com.au/tyreproducts?forceland-235/40r… —- $155
I only buy Michelin's as they advocate for worn tyre testing. Their designs focus on wet weather performance down to the legal limit
Winrun is not expensive, but has good reviews globally
Tyre deals
1) https://actyres.com.au/productdetail/?id=dceb574a42553ef905a…
2) https://www.tyroola.com.au/v1-winrun-r-330-25545r19-104w-ty5…
Review on Tesla Y (overseas)
1) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFhkF2vAaSQ
2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP4gCHpP7NE
I am an ev owner and no way I would put cheapies tires on mine. You are just asking for trouble.
Your willing to drop cash on a tesla but not your safety?
Man people are weird…
FWIW
Even grandmas need grip in the rain and the occasional hard braking ability.