Good price on a 1000W inverter, usually over $200. Free shipping also included. $40 off coupon also applies to the larger inverter range. This may not be the best brand out there but it's not the worst and ~$100 is a good entry point.
Location/shop too?
Edit: appears the link was changed from website to image
Lol the link used to work au.renogy.com
Possibly a real manufacturer, but the Australian number in pretty sure is invalid?
+61 1800……..
We cannot call 1800 from overseas where 61 is needed
I'm fairly certain there arent any strict restrictions on dialling a 1800 number from overseas; it's +61 1800 … … as listed on the site. They aren't free calls but certainly have the ability to take calls.
I'm sure I've called one when I was in China.
Price?
Updated sorry
Thanks @Churner for the effort, this was a great posting
Be mindful these have quite a high parasitic drain…
Inverter on, 12vdc connected, no AC load, no AC connected = 0.66A DC
Inverter on, 12vdc connected, no AC load, AC connected = 0.33A DC
This is a concern if you want to use it as a UPS, you'd need solar or a mains charger connected to the battery all the time because it's going to consume 8Ah per day from your 12v battery while being used as a UPS with AC connected… (about 100WH, 0.1KWH per day from the DC side while on standby in UPS mode with AC connected)
I use one just to run my E-bike charger in the campervan, it's ok, but even with a low ~150w load the cooling fan is running most the time, and efficiency drops off as it warms up… They're ok for the money but I wouldn't buy one for a larger load or such, don't buy one to run a 1000w induction cooktop or such, lol..
Roughly 11W drain for me when idle. Apparently the cooling fan doesn't kick in until after 60-70+ degrees however mine has never worked once. Support can be slow and likely take a week or more to respond. However nice cheap inverter that does the job just make sure you size your loads correctly.
That's pretty low idle consumption for an inverter like this
That is a lot of wasted power, but surprisingly for people wanting one for UPS purposes, that actually rates well compared to dedicated UPS. A standard consumer-level Eaton 5E UPS uses 20w with nothing connected, so this is about 1/3 to 1/5 of that in terms of wasted power. Of course you don't get the USB shutdown warnings that a proper UPS provides.
Been using 1 for years as my UPS for internet and IP cameras, works great. Fan is a bit annoying (though at least no more beeping from a traditional UPS) but I wouldn't use it as a UPS/Inverter in say a bedroom/caravan due to the fan. In addition, I have a battery charger to charge the 100Ah LFP battery, so in todays comparisons a homebrew Bluetti/Ecoflow for much less.
Would be better just to use the Renogy Inverter Charger combo model?
More expensive you slack jawed yokel
They are dearer and a lot bigger, though do have a very nice big transformer inside. They would be a more robust solution, however I do have other similar setups using Victron Energy Inverter/Chargers.
I bought this exact model 2 years ago, I waited for it to go on sale from $199 to $179. This is a huge price drop.
BTW I don't use it much but when I have used it while camping it has worked perfectly.
I mainly use it for charging ebike or escooter while camping but I've now discovered a 12V DC to DC option.
Could you go into more detail about what type and voltage dc to dc option is as ebike scooter and ebikes
charge voltages can vary?
I bought this one from Aliexpress, Powlsojx MPT-7210A 24V/36V/48V/60V/72V MPPT Solar Battery Charger. It works well, but I'm not quite
confident to allow it to charge my ebike/escooter batteries to 100% full, as I'm concerned it may not stop or I type in a voltage value to high for my batteries.
This charger is compatible with the voltage of most ebikes and escooters. It will also charge directly from a solar panel. I have tried this and it works,
including bypassing the built in solar regulator where you get the maximum power from the solar panel, I only did this briefly to see if it would work and it did.
As in a proof of concept, but I think it would increase the risk of damaging the batteries. There are lots of Youtube videos showing people using this
variable voltage/amperage solar charger to charge mainly ebikes/escooters. Including people building little ebike trailers with solar panels
on them and going on bike adventures using this solar DC charger.
Frankly 1000w is too little for anything usedul unless it's for an occasional use for some charging. Cant even run a hair dryer. Persinally I have 3000W and wouldnt go under 2000W. Other than that Renogy does very solid inverters even though they are on a bigger side. Check the dimensions before buying.
Actually I recently checked the current pulled by my Anko hair drier, and so I have found that on the drier's lowest setting I can run it on my 600w inverter (good for drying shoes etc when camping) .. it pulls about 500w
Does anybody know if the UPS transfer time is sufficiently brief to not interrupt running systems (Eg Server)?
"Rapidly switches between battery and AC power within 50ms.”
Before anyone buys this, you should know that any ordinary wire you have at home is almost certainly WAY too small for this.
1000W@12V is theoretically 83 Amps, but as inverters aren't 100% efficient, the actual draw from the battery will be about 100 Amps when running at the full rated 1000W output.
Here's some 100A cable, it's way thicker than you've probably seen before: https://www.jaycar.com.au/4g-super-high-current-ofc-cable-re…
Just the copper part of the cable is about as thick as a pencil, when you add the insulation it's 10mm thick.
Also, rated cable currents are only valid when the cable is "in the open", so air can carry the heat away. Even though the cable has extremely low resistance, at 100A it'll be generating 10 Watts of heat for every metre. So you can't put the cable in a conduit, or the heat won't escape nearly as quickly, and you can easily end up with melted insulation, wires touching, and then a fire.
And because of the thickness of the copper part of the cable, you'll most likely have to use eye terminals with 100A+ rating to connect the wire to the inverter: https://www.jaycar.com.au/8mm-non-insulated-eye-terminal-25m…
Yes thanks for the info. I've setup my DIY solar 12V system with 2awg (33mm2) cable and 125A fuses from the battery to the inverter to allow a little more headroom now and into the future
It's always good to oversize the wiring, within limits of budget and practicable installation.
An interesting thing about wiring: buying wiring with twice the CSA doesn't give you twice the current rating, because the amount of heat the cable can safely dissipate into the air is limited by the surface area of the copper. Twice the CSA only gives you roughly 1.4 times the surface area, that's why cable current rating isn't proportional to CSA.
At high current, you can often get better bang-for-buck by installing multiple smaller cables connected in parallel.
For example, to achieve 200A continuous rating:
One 1-metre length of 0G cable is $32.95: https://www.jaycar.com.au/0g-mega-high-current-ofc-cable-bla…
Two 1-metre lengths of the 2G cable I listed above cost $29.90. And the 2G cables will be easier to bend around corners during installation, but admittedly you'll need more "width" on whatever you're securing the cables to, and twice as many cable clips. Make sure you space the cables away from each other, so they get proper air cooling.
You can also use this "multiple conductors" trick to improve the current rating of your existing wiring.
There's always the risk though that one of the cable connections goes bad, then you're pulling too much current through the remaining cable, and the fuse doesn't blow because it's sized for two cables
@Horacio: That's true, but you have a similar problem with a single cable.
If a connection on the single cable is bad, it'll get VERY hot and possibly start a fire - without blowing the fuse.
At least with two cables, you'll likely only have a heat problem when you exceed somewhere higher than 50% of the maximum current. With a single cable, a bad connection will give heat problems at lower currents.
The other thing is, how often do cable connections fail? Surely the usual situation will be that a connection was bad from the day it was made, but possibly not detected until later. With two cables, you can use a DC clamp meter to confirm the currents in each are equal or close to equal, which gives you a measure of how good the connections are.
Great price and great inverter; I’ve been using one daily for about a year and a half with no issues.
Charge the battery via solar during the day (with a victron charger) then switch to this inverter at night to run my fridge and TV
Thanks OP I got one. I have been looking to get an inverter this size to use for camping or vheicle to load to run our house fridge/essential loads in the event of a blackout. Car has a 40A DC/DC charger for the 12V system, so should be good for 400W continuous and keep up with the fridge. Figure I can put this on the car battery (and may add my 300 Ahr camping battery as well to provide more buffer storage) then run an extension cord into the kitchen.
Nice one
Since it can't be used to charge the battery, what is the purpose of the input AC?
It's bypassing the inverter, so when there is AC power, the internal relay will automatically switch to the AC power.
I see. It's the UPS function that isolates and protect the battery. This has to be very fast to switch between while maintaining the power to the device.
1000w way to small. 1500-2000w bare minimum for future proof.
Depends on your usage. The bigger they are, the more power they use in standby. If you're using this for a CPAP machine, laptop charger, etc it's very ample. But yes, don't go trying to plug a microwave or coffee machine in it.
don't go trying to plug a microwave or coffee machine in it.
Why not? Lots of microwaves have 900W power consumption, which is less than the 1000W output of this inverter.
900W output =/= 900W power consumption
@Switchblade88: Thanks, I didn't know that.
I'm a little surprised too, normally marketers prefer "the largest number". I shudder when I see exercise treadmill companies trying to outdo each other with "2000W Motor!" claims, it just means their treadmill is horrifically inefficient.
Anyone having trouble doing Paypal checkout? The Paypal window pops up and tries to load for a few seconds, then closes and the checkout says "There was an issue with PayPal. Try again or use a different payment method." Happens for express checkout and regular.
Tried using different device, different browser, incognito, adblock off, etc. Guessing Renogy has got something set wrong in Shopify but would be good if someone else could check?
Sounds good…
createPayPalToken failed with code: RESTRICTED_WALLET_ACCOUNT
Is there any other way to pay? I'll forget about it if not
Yeah you can pay by credit card, but not PayPal.
Customer service wrote back to me and said they’re looking into it, but I doubt they’ll have it fixed before the sale finishes
@skooter: Thanks.. I just used credit card. I note the deal is marked "expired" but it still worked for me just now. EDIT: just realised this is likely bc I had it in my cart from last night :)
Price?