Tuya ZigBee Motorized Roller Blind Controller US$30.88 (~A$48) Delivered @ Smart Homehacks Store Aliexpress

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Original Coupon Deal

Great price for a Zigbee Blinds Controller. I have this same model working well in Zigbee2MQTT.

Requirements
  • Zigbee hub required – this won't work standalone
  • Alternative: WiFi version available here at a similar price if you prefer WiFi over Zigbee

For dual-cord blinds: If your blinds have 2 cords like mine, you can join them together using metal chain connectors – works perfectly!

Zigbee2MQTT Configuration

You may need an external converter to work with Zigbee2MQTT. Here's how to set it up:

In the zigbee2mqtt config I added:

external_converters:
- custom_blind_converter.mjs

Then in the zigbee2mqtt config directory create a folder called external_converters and place the custom_blind_converter.mjs file in there.

I set my blinds to open 30 mins before sunrise and close at sunset. When we hit summer I'll add some automations to close them during the heat of the day and open them at night after I have gone to sleep. In the bedroom I set them to close when the TV is on and for 15 mins after I have a shower while I get dressed.

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Comments

  • Curious to see how this compares with the Aqara E1. Anyone have both?

    • +1

      The E1 supports Matter, which means you can have less Tuya in in your life, which is always a good thing. It's a fair price difference though.

      • +2

        The E1 supports Matter, which means you can have less Tuya in in your life, which is always a good thing.

        This is Zigbee, there is no Tuya involved if you're using it with your own Zigbee coordinator with e.g. HA.

    • I have both. The Aqara is faster to respond, other than that they're the same. The solar panel kept it charged longer than the Aqara but my toddler broke off the connection.

      Edit: sorry mine isn't exactly the same. It doesn't use USB-c rather a barrel plug to charge.

    • In my experience Aqara products are always better quality.

      • But an Aqara Roller Shade Driver E1 seems to be $115, which is more the double!

        • There's a reason it costs double. Wish there was a middle of the road option though.

  • Just a thought/question. I don't have knowledge of battery safety. The device has a lithium battery, and it will be right next to a large window or glass door. In summer, depending upon the direction you face, there could be a LOT of heat in that immediate area. Any ideas on the safety of the device with that kind of heat? Imagine a 45 degree day when you're not at home and the aircon isn't running. Even if it was running, there would be a lot of heat by the window/door.

    • +3

      white box, indoors, not a big issue. Its the black devices in cars you should worry about.
      Anyway, you can usually mount it out of direct sunlight.

      • this is literally not possible for a blind motor

        • Both of mine are out of direct sunlight

          • @theguyrules: are they like on the inside side of the window frame? do they not struggle with the cords getting all criss crossed?

            • @Balmaino: Yep they are, and nah they do fine. Might make them a bit slower but I've had them for a couple of years without issue.

              • @theguyrules: Damn! good to know, might shift mine around and give it a go, i thought they chains had to go straight down or they'd struggle. thank u!

    • I've got the OG version of this which is bluetooth.. they're still going strong after at least 8 years… although, i must admit, they are on in direct morning sun up until middayish i guess. But they do use a small Li-polymer pouch type battery.. I've replaced the cell in a couple of them… none of them have started any fires..

  • +3

    I suggest to check the motors that are inserted into the blind tube eliminating the need of the cord. Benefits: more aesthetical, reliable (the cord won't slip), high load capacity.
    For example:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007161989400.html

    • Yea I have both types, the in tube version is much better.
      I initially bought the chain pulling type because I thought it would be difficult to use an in tube, but it's very simple. You do need to replace the holders though, but it's worth it.

      The chain eventually loses tension, so you remove a ball, and attach it. Did that 4 times then the entire chain snapped, now on the second chain.

      • Can these in tube versions be extended/shortened with minor DIY action?

        • Do you mean the girth?
          If you mean the length of the tube, you might be misunderstanding how they work.
          The motor goes in 1 side, and extendeds maybe 30cm.
          The blind itself is only motored form 1 side, the rigidity of the existing tube is enough to spin it evenly. Same as it would be with the existing chain.

          Probably better explained with a video by someone else.

    • Is it easy to diy or I need to hire someone? Never done anything related to blinds myself before.

      • +1

        Easy to DIY, but would recommend getting a sparky to do a proper install of an AC version so you don't need to faff around with batteries or trailing cables. We've got 3 installed, they're great. Have them automatically close before sunset

        • Extension cord can work if you're on a budget.

    • What happes when battery dies after a few years or due to fault? Do you get replacement batteries?

      • +1

        Get the hardwired version if you are concerned. I guess, a power plug can be attached so it's "soft wired" :-)

      • +1

        I do recall reading the zemismart tube versions are practically non replaceable batteries, so you would need to replace the whole motor.

        • Cool Thanks.

        • +2

          Batteries are always replaceable unless they are apple. Just saying.

          • +1

            @bcYield: Anythings possible, think different.

            I am not that keen on soldering. But will cross that bridge when I get to it. My zemismart blinds are all less than 1 year old.

    • Can these be controlled through a physical cord? I remember seeing some which included a wand/stick which could be used to control it. Otherwise I guess the remote works

      • There's nothing attached to the motor to control it's movement, so a radio frequency remote it is (can be bought with a blind, one remote per 9 motors is enough).
        If it's part of a smart home though, then there's lots of options. For example, I've got 8 motors, one RF remote and an IKEA Somrig ZigBee button in every room to control the motors.

        • Yep part of a smart home so I have options for controlling it, I think just getting used to a different method is what's tricky.

          Are these motors loud?

          • @greater mimic: Not loud at all… For example my ensuite bathroom tap is way louder.
            Probably still, they can wake you up in the morning, especially if you are a light sleeper :)
            Battery versions are less noisy than wired.

    • I have them and would recommend it ! Only thing is for some reason its not a direct for, i have to modify the end caps, is it possible to buy different ones.

      • Can these be extended/shortened with minor DIY action?

        • If you are talking about the motor sizes, it fits blinds from about 35-40 cm wide, 38mm tube diameter. The tube is usually made from aluminium (soft material) so diameter can be changed by a couple of millimetres each side

    • Dumb question but how are you meant to match up the size? Are normal blind tube sizes standardised?

      • I took my blind off the wall, and then measured the inner tube size. My blinds were 38mm or maybe 39? But the 38mm motor works fine, hasn't slipped.

        I'm guessing they are standardized around 38 or 28.

    • Can these be extended/shortened with minor DIY action?

  • what are the practical reasons you might look at zigbee vs wifi option? I presume integration with other devices, but beyond this?

    • +3

      If you only have a handful of these type of devices wifi is fine.

      When you have a lot of devices zigbee is more efficient and easier to manage.

      I had to replace my router once I got to about 40 devices as it would run out of ram, that hasn't been a problem with zigbee.

      If you use home assistant the zigbee integration works much more reliably than the tuya one.

    • +1

      Zigbee uses less power than WiFi, so battery life will be longer.

      • Thanks for the replies, very useful

  • Has anyone tried and got some feedback of the solar version?

  • How is it powered? Does it have to be always connected to wall power point or battery operated?

    • +1

      Built in battery. It has a USB C charging port.

      I need to charge it every few weeks but I am opening and closing multiple times per day.

  • What kind of mh is this battery rockin'? i just got a bunch of the Zemismart ones direct from their site for about 90 a pop, but their 4800mha means they'll last 6 months before a top up

  • Where do you put the code? Cant see it in the checkout

    Edit, found it but it says not valid as not meeting the spending req.. trying to buy wifi version

    • Coupon not valid for the wifi version listing for some reason.

  • Bought the last one, thanks

  • Anyone have tips on usung these in an apartment & how they compare to the Moes versions?

  • +4

    I have been automating my house for almost 20 years, way back from the x10 protocol and z-wave days. I have installed many blind motors into my home/s.

    This particular type would be absolutely hopeless for anything but the lightest/smallest blinds - the really flimsy type for $20/$30.

    Anything slightly substantial would cause the teeth to occassionally/consistently slip. The problem with slip is - the motor relies on time counting to stop. So if it slips just once, all your stop limits are permanently out of whack.

    Don't bother with this.

    Get the motor-in-the-blind tube type instead.

    Someone was asking about wifi vs zigbee. Always go zigbee if you have many appliances to automate - wifi routers, doesn't matter how good/expensive, can't cope with 60 automated light switches/blinds/power points being permanently connected. Trust me.

    • I have about 128 wifi devices on my network and about 133 ZigBee devices. Both have their flaws and benefits. I wouldn't say ZigBee is more reliable than Wifi. In fact I think wifi is slightly better in my circumstances. Most of my devices are home automation devices. You do need a decent wifi router and mesh or wired access points though.

    • +1

      I have 250+ wifi devices around the house, no issue at all. You need a better network gear. I have 100+ zigbee devices as well. Wifi is more reliable in my case. Zigbee devices are great at their battery life. The worst thing about zigbee is, if for whatever reason you have a power outage, you may end up re-paring half of your devices and it is a big pain.

      • what are yall automating/connected to to have over 100 devices??

        • It's just an addiction…
          Light switches, led strips, blinds, beds, occupancy, temperature humidity lux vibration sensors, door and window sensors, room tracking, cameras, PIRs, security, etc.

        • +1

          16 blinds, 20 wall light switches, around 10 power sockets for appliances, 1 garden watering valve with a bunch of soil moisture sensors, 20-30 door/window position/temp/luminiscence/occupancy sensors, 8 Musiccast devices, around 10 Alexas, plus all the usual things like TVs/DLNA/Plex/AppleTV, etc etc - all connected via a combination of Tuya, Home Assistant, Alexa, Bond, etc, with a hardwired wall panel.

          It's a huge rabbit hole to go down. But great fun when it all comes together.

      • +1

        The worst thing about zigbee is, if for whatever reason you have a power outage, you may end up re-paring half of your devices and it is a big pain.

        I haven't had to do that, but I've wanted to change channels due to interference… you'd think such a basic RF function wouldn't be such a pain to do.

        I find troubleshooting wifi devices easier as you can use tools like ping and stats from routers like UniFi to figure out what's going on.

        It's also easier to create a larger more robust wifi network for a larger home or building as you don't have to rely on wireless repeaters. You can just add more wired access points.

        Zigbee wins on battery life of course, so that's the best for wireless remotes and door/motion/environmental sensors.

        • All the hardwired zigbee switches are all zigbee repeaters. So in a "fully done up" home, you will have maybe 3-4 wifi mesh units, but something like 30 zigbee repeaters. That's why zigbee is more reliable. At least for me anyway.

          • @Jstrrrr: I've had my hardwired zigbee wall switch hang before. I had to power-cycle the lighting breaker to get it working again. At least with wifi if a device hangs it won't affect the rest of the network.

            I'd much rather have the network be based on hardwired commercial-grade access points like UniFi than rely on wireless repeaters in light switches or ikea smart sockets.

            The battery life gains for certain devices and the bonding capabilities in case everything falls apart is great though. I run both Zigbee and wifi as I'm sure most enthusiasts do. Some applications work better with wifi, some with Zigbee.

            • +1

              @eug: That happens to me once a year now that I have to restart-the-house lol.
              Few years ago I was having problems with zigbee devices and after weeks of trial and error, eventually figured some of them are not compatible with some other repeaters (e.g. old Telstra plugs with some aqara sensors). Long story short, I have three zigbee networks at home now - which means three bands, z2ms, coordinators, mqtt topics, dockers…

              • @Man10United: It's frustrating, isn't it? That each manufacturer implements a slightly different zigbee protocol. Aqara made very cheap occupancy sensors but they drop in and out frequently. I've found the most reliable and immediately motion trigger setup is actually just the HUE sensors directly looping to HUE/zigbee lights within Hue app itself, without going through 3rd party software.

                • @Jstrrrr:

                  Aqara made very cheap occupancy sensors but they drop in and out frequently.

                  Do you mean the FP1 and FP2? FWIW they both work pretty solidly for me. Ahh, the joys of non-standard standards. :)

      • These numbers can only come from an enthusiast. Yes, wifi mesh has improved the last few years, especially if you interconnect the nodes with ethernet backbone.

        Personally, I find zigbee incredibly resilient when it comes to re-pairing. I have had around 10 devices die over the last 5 years. Each time has just been a simple discover the replacement and rename it to the previous. No other devices are ever affected.

        The biggest issue with wifi automation unreliability, is that a lot of the older/cheaper wifi automation devices (Belkin, early LIFX, Tuya) can only connect to 2.4G. And that seems to cause an intermittent connection problem with multi-bandwidth routers. At least in my case. I am using 6 Eero 6+ with ethernet backbone.

        I have around 60 zigbees and 50 wifi devices still, despite offloading around 50 devices to ethernet using local area switches where I can.

        I still use three x10 devices for old times sake. LOL

  • +2

    My blind is really heavy so I got a Kogan version. It works really well and stays plugged in so it’s never flat. No hub needed. It comes with a remote that pairs to it.

  • Does anyone know how strong these are?i have blinds that are 2.4 wide x 2.4h,wondering if this has the strength to do it?

  • I have 10 blinds fml, costing an arm and leg to automate also a pain in the butt to close and shut everyday

  • +1

    I prefer this electronic roller blind from AliExpress. Very simple to install, no drilling and can be operated via your phone.

  • I will be building my home next year. Are there any of these that are hard wired? Should I look at getting powerpoints next to the windows on the wall/ceiling?

    • +1

      solar cell and battery… you can hardwire them if you want to… the solar cell keeps it charged for quite a while.. occasionally in winter I have to top them up with mains, but not all that often.

    • You can find tubular types on Aliexpress that are hardwired for AC. You will need powerpoints close by. But the solar USB ones work very well, as long as you don't operate your blinds 10 times a day and your window faces good sun.

      Even if you don't use the AC plug type, you will still need to power the motor using USB (unless you go solar), so a power socket nearby is still necessary.

  • The wifi model comes with a usb gateway, so it's not just wifi right?

  • Only 1 per shopper..

  • I ordered 1 of these a few weeks ago, tried it for a week and then bought 2 more which arrived today.

    I did notice that the start position has slipped down after a week. Not sure what is causing that yet, probably the ball chain slipping.

    Installing the other 2 today and will see how they go.

    I got them for the same price as listed here using the codes alixpress seems to almost always have listed, I am not sure that this is a special price.

    I use it with home assistant to open at sunrise, close different % throughout the day and then open 15 mins before sunset. Was planning to look in to sun azimuth tracking etc later

  • slipping is real for these I have got 2 x Zb version and having to recalibrate/readjust them every week is major PITA despite only taking 1min to do each

  • If anyone's interested in testing some out, I have four motorised blind motors in Mount Waverley (3149) when I moved out of my old place, which I don't have a home for at the new house.

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