Buying a Used Car from a Dealer – Any Tips to Get The Best Price?

Hi all, I’m looking to buy a car (no finance, budget around $30k–$33k) in the next few months.

I’ve narrowed it down to either a Mazda CX-30 G25 or a Corolla ZR (both around 2022 models, so second-hand). This is new territory for me (no real trade-in, I might get $1k at best for my current car) so I’m chasing any practical tips to help bring the price down to a fair level.

Here’s what I’ve gathered so far. Anything I’ve missed?

  • Get their best price early – ask straight up, “What’s your best drive-away today if I sign?” Dealers often show their hand when they sense serious intent.
  • Time it right – visit near the end of the month when they’re chasing sales targets and more open to negotiation.
  • Watch for listing changes – track the ad for a week or two. If the price or photos change, it’s likely been sitting too long, which weakens their position.
  • Offer an odd number – instead of $30,000, try $29,430. Feels deliberate, not arbitrary, and can make them re-evaluate how low they can go.

Thanks heaps :)

Comments

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  • +13

    How exciting for you!

    No one will give you a 'best price' until you are ready to sign the contract. Don't act desperate, walk away if you need to and let them chase you. Tell them you are looking around and tell them what other cars you are looking at. They will call you back.

    Don't fall for the extras like paint protection.

    Make sure you get car matts thrown in and boot liners.

    Good luck.

    • +1

      Make sure you get car matts thrown in and boot liners.

      Generally will only happen if buying from that brand's dealer, not if you buy a Toyota vehicle from a Mazda dealership, for example

    • Mats are included with the Corolla unless original owner kept them.

    • +1

      Go end of month / quarter, as they get much more focused on meeting quota/target

    • -1

      Great advice from joka

      Just remember OP…

      there are plenty more of the car you seek elsewhere!

      So in one word….NEGOTIATE

      and that advice you gathered…
      Sorry its worthless!
      Try that on a dealer and they will laugh you out the door

      Just hit the dealer up with your price
      Dont say "Would you take $xxx?"
      You need to be firm.
      say.. "I will buy it today for $xxxxx"
      or "If you want to sell it now my price is $XXX"
      Then add your conditions…
      But only if you….

  • +8

    Offer them a low price and don’t be afraid to Run, not walk away. It signals to the dealer that you’re a professional and won't be paying sticker price.

    • +25

      To really show them who's boss, wear athletic sprinting shoes with spikes.

  • So we're in a buyers market again?

    • Depends on the car.

    • For most cars/models yes!

  • +7

    Buying a secondhand car is a different ball game to a new car.

    Have you considered buying privately?

    • Good question - tbh I’d rather a physical dealership, so I’ve locked into checking prices with a few local dealers instead of going through private sellers.

      • +12

        You'll exclude the majority of available cars AND pay more if you exclude buying used cars privately.

        • +2

          Not my current experience on carsales but I could be wrong - seems like dealer ads outnumber private ads by a significant proportion

          • +3

            @Barbados Slim: That may be due to private sellers using Facebook marketplace

            • +3

              @kiitos: Maybe because carsales costs money to sell a car?

            • @kiitos: @kiitos I agree, Facebook Marketplace is a better place to look for cars, but watch out for scams/restored write-offs.

              The prices on Carsales for private sellers are generally overinflated, and sit there for months. You may as well buy from a dealership.

              • +1

                @megaclix: I actually don't have facebook - is that the main place to search? Gumtree has really dropped off since I last bought a used car.

        • Most private sales are deluded on their prices because what they paid in COVID. Dealers are cheaper at the moment

      • And do these dealers have second-hand CX30 G25s or Corolla ZRs for sale?

      • Tbh ???

  • I find that if you call them, ready to make a deal; you put yourself at a better advantage because the dealers are forced to make the deal on the phone. They know that you can just hang up and walk away, instead of being trapped at the dealership.

    I did it and got 10% of RRP a few years back.

    • +8

      This advice works for new cars, not an used car that the OP is wishing to buy.

      • Ah yes, missed that part about second hand. My bad.

    • I had a similar experience. Wanted to buy an RRP $42-43k car, got a deal on the phone for about $37-38k. It was very smooth for whatever reason, never happened to me, but they had no stock, waiting for it to come from Japan killed me.

  • +5

    End of month thing I think would apply more to new car sales where targets are constantly being pushed from above so it ends up being a numbers game. With new cars if they reach a certain volume sold, even if the profit on each is low or zero, they'll get a factory rebate at the end of the month. In comparison with used cars it's only the profit margin on that car they have to work with so it's a different game.

    Second hand cars more so on how long they have sitting around taking up valuable real estate. They make more profit on used cars so there's potentially more negotiating room but at the same time they don't want to eat into the profit margin of that car.

    Don't get emotionally attached to any particular car. At the end of the day there is a fair market value for the car, and if both of you are not close enough to each others price to make a deal then walk away. Go in with more than just a mindset of "I am offering you less just because I want to pay less." You need to back it up somewhat with reasons, like recent prices paid data, why a certain colour/spec/wheel size should be valued differently, condition of the car etc.

    • does this include demo's? or are they classed as seconds?

    • On S/H vehicles the prices can be all over the place so I'd say only offer what you're willing to pay, never mind what other cars are going for - unless they are being snapped up, in which case it's a sellers market.

  • -1

    Tell them you paying Afterpay

  • +15

    InB4 all the “I only accept 25% off or I walk” clowns turn up and claim they make the dealers write this down so they can take it to another dealer for 30% off…

    Steps are this

    • Do your homework first
    • If you can, buy floor/in stock, not order in specials
    • Have a “realistic” price in mind.
    • Dont “do the deal” until you are 101% ready to sign away
    • Be prepared to walk if you don’t get the price you want
    • Never come up from your offer, always come down from their offer (ie: if you are at 30k and they are at 40k, they will say “can you come up to 35k?” You say “no, but will you come down to 35k?”. The nuance here is you are now between 30k and 35k, not 35k and 40k).
    • Ignore all the “well I got it for this price” chatter form other people, they are full of shit. It’s your car, you have to be happy with the price “you” are going to pay.
    • Be firm, but polite. Thank them for their time and walk. Tell them if anything changes, to give you a call.
    • Keep an eye on the car you want on their website and if it gets a price drop, hit them up again.
    • Ignore the salesperson’s noise. Don’t believe their “I got 14 calls alone an that car today, it may not be here tomorrow…”

    TL;DR: Do your homework, know the price, be firm but polite, don’t deal until you are 101% going to buy, don’t be afraid to walk if the deal is not in your interest.

    • +1

      I like this one best haha: 'Ignore all the “well I got it for this price” chatter form other people, they are full of shit. It’s your car, you have to be happy with the price “you” are going to pay.' Cheers.

      • +7

        Dude, you are going to get some post-purchase regret, but these morons with their "Oh, I would have gotten way more off/I paid way less for mine" are 9/10 times "full of shit". Would of, could of, should of… but didnt.

        Just be happy with the price you paid at the time of signing. What ever happens after is of no consequence. Unless that person or yourself has a crystal ball, the price you paid is what you were happy with at the time, so just move on and enjoy the new car.

        • +3

          Might get buyers remorse and send it back to temu only to have the refund denied

    • +1

      Good tips.

      The nuance here is you are now between 30k and 35k, not 35k and 40k).

      Subtle point, but it makes sense!

    • For a used car?

  • +1

    Tell ‘em the customer is always right and you are the customer

    • +2

      The full quote is "The customer is always right, in matters of taste," which is often attributed to retail magnate Harry Gordon Selfridge. This version means that customers have the right to their own preferences and you should not argue with them about their personal tastes, but it doesn't mean customers are always right about everything.

  • generally 3-5 walkouts seen to do the trick.

  • +7

    Best advise: Don't forget to kick all the tires and look under the bonut to let the salesperson know you are serious.

    • +5

      What? No checking the breaks or getting any advise from Uncle Ian?

    • +3

      Also check the service history books to ensure its not a demo thats been around the country.

  • +3

    If buying one of the cheapest cars for the age/kms/condition, don't expect much bargaining power

    If you do miss out on a car due to waiting for it, don't rush into the next one. Still do your checks and balances, but maybe quicken the purchase process

    If a car is priced right, it truly might not last more than a week. Be mindful of this

    Don't ask for a salesperson's "best price". It's horribly cliche and will likely make the salesperson dislike you. Say you're prepared to put in an offer. Be reasonable with your offer, again given the car's kms and condition against the market. If they let you walk, or they didn't counter-offer, your offer was likely unrealistic.

    Paying cash, not financing, and showing little interest in an extended warranty/paint protection, will weaken your negotiating position. Someone financing could likely drive a better bargain. This also doesn't mean you lie and say you're considering financing

    In terms of end of month buying, yes that's a thing, but you need to ensure enough time that you can pick the car up before the end of the month. If you go in on the 31st, but can't collect pay and collect till the next month, you won't be able to negotiate as hard.



    Imo the Mazda presents well, but I can never get used to the lack of a touch-screen for Android Auto. For me, this is a long-term deal breaker.

    • Non-touch screen in 2022 ?

    • Paying cash, not financing, and showing little interest in an extended warranty/paint protection, will weaken your negotiating position. Someone financing could likely drive a better bargain

      Can you elaborate on this a little please? I've always thought that financing would give the dealer more opportunity to hold a higher purchase price.. And the old 'cash is king' sentiment usually applies.. I'm no expert with buying used cars though..

      • Cash is king hasn't been applicable for 20+ years. Dealers get commission from finance, so of course they'd prefer another revenue stream on the deal

        In saying that, cash deals on the 2nd last day of the month, with the ability to pay and collect by end of month, do have bargaining power

        • Fair enough. I've been looking at a new or recent used car the past few weeks and all the dealers I've spoken with have asked about whether I want to finance the purchase within the first couple of minutes of my call, I guess that's why..
          I've told them I'd be happy to finance it if they can offer a rate thats better than my mortgage :)

          • @axloz: Sometimes not too far off on a euro car actually, but all depends on your credit

      • +3

        If you have no trade-in, pay cash and buy no after-care products then the dealer has to make their entire profit on the price of the car. If you are trading in, getting finance and buying warranties and paint protection the dealer has four places to make a profit, and can give you a red-hot deal on the car (which you can see and brag to your mates about) and make it all back and more by adding 0.2% to the interest rate which you probably won’t even think about.

        The more moving parts in the transaction the more the asymmetry in information favours the dealer.

        • Last car we traded (at a dealer), was in absolutely terrible shape (well panels looked schmick, but all the hidden stuff was a bit of a worry)

          Of course it was a Camry, but with over 460,090 klm on the clock, dealer declared that it was gently worn in…

          Had to get the thing towed to just around the corner from the dealer so we could "drive it in" without risking its inevitable stop along the way.

          Dealer offered us $1k trade in. I said "Maaaayte, this is the fifth vehicle we have purchased off you this year, surely you can do better than that"?.

          He raised his trade in offer to $2k.

          Joke was on me though, forgot to remove brand new spare tyre from boot before we went. When I asked dealer if I could have it back, he said "no, that tyre just cost me $2k" lol

          • @Muppet Detector: LOL - in one post you have acheived ultimate OZB Camry status, and simultaneously lost OZB cred :)

        • @GordonR - This is a really good explanation, thank you! I've not bought a car in a loooong time so I've never really thought about it, but this makes lots of sense.

  • +1

    Ask what better ones they have out the back. Any with lower klm coming in?

    Keep best tyre. Trade in car with worst tyres and no spare.

    Keep Jack, anything else not nailed down. If you only get $1k, not even gaffa tape is holding that together.

    IMO, don't mention your finances at first

    Tell dealer, I want x car for lowish offer if you can have it by 4pm today.

    He will either negotiate or guide you towards the door.

    Ask him what he really had in mind.
    Ask him what else that price included mats etc??

    When verbal price and extras agreed
    Then hit with $2k trade in - talk down to $1 if want
    Then important=> you want a contract subject to finance of your choice

    Let him think about finance for as long as you can let him => he probably gets some bonus if sold under dealer finance.

    Don't want to pay yet, you want to get it to a third party of your choice for second opinion.

    When clear, hand over your cash to finalise contract.

    Leave yourself room to walk away.

    • Keep best tyre. Trade in car with worst tyres and no spare.
      Keep Jack, anything else not nailed down. If you only get $1k, not even gaffa tape is holding that together.

      Really? I never considered you would do this even for a very low price trade in.

  • +2

    There’s a used car dealership that makes YouTube videos in Melbourne. He seems pretty transparent about how he does business and worth watching for fun or learning about car dealerships too.

    Jerry sellz if you wanna google him.

    But personally I would buy from him, his model of business is as a seller of cars he doesn’t have much power, so he can’t over price a car and expect people to walk in and buy. So he aims to buy cars below retail price and try to make a little more than retail.

  • From the outset of negotiations tell the salesman you’ll be going through their finance.

    Then at last minute say you moved some money around and found the funds to pay cash.

  • Have someone else negotiate on your behalf. They should be amply detached and act on your behalf. I did that for a friend of mine and it worked quite well.

  • Get the dealer to do the next major service that is due. I negotiated this when I bought my Honda Jazz with 40,000+ km so they did the 50,000km service and saved me a few hundred.

  • https://www.mazda.com.au/build/cx-30/?step=1&modelCode=C30FA…

    Mazda CX-30 brand new is 36k driveaway, maybe you can get a bit of discount after negotiating?

    • +2

      Cheers, but I'm after the G25 - Not a fan of the 2.0l base model. Sounds snobbish for sure, but it drives better, has a 2.5l engine, and suits my needs a little better.

      • Look closely at the CX30 it has small windows, low roof making it feel cramped also the boot is tiny.

      • @rawm - I hear you on this. Have been looking at Mazda's - CX5 and CX60.

        In the CX5 the G20 is really not great and feels underpowered. Good for a loaner car sorta thing. The G25 is good. The G35 is a step up again, but not really necessary for the regular daily driver who isn't an enthusiast.. I would imagine the CX30 has a similar dynamic to the CX5.

        In the CX60 the G25 is alright, good for something that just gets you around town comfortably. The G40 is where that car wants to be though…

        I like the look and size of the CX30. I like that they don't put tiny wheels on them! I'd totally go for one of those but we need some more space for family crap.. The Mazda's I've been testing are much nicer to drive than the Toyota's I've been testing (RAV4's - they're just zzzzz to drive).

        Now that we're coming up to the end of the year almost you might find some early plate clearance deals coming up. You will definitely find some older 2024 models for cheap at dealers now so keep an eye out for those. Ex-demo cars should be a good amount cheaper, just check how much warranty is left and negotiate accordingly. Good luck!

  • -2

    Would have thought used cars has less wiggle room due to:

    • There are no factory rebates on used cars.
    • Used cars are sort of one of a kind, sure there are other used CX-30 and Corollas around, but they have different mileage/trim/colour/price. Once you start negotiating, they know there is something particular about that specific car you like.
  • +1

    Most important: inspect and drive the car before you even consider offers. Offer lower than market price, negotiate up to your max.

  • Dont buy second from a dealer. You will end up paying about $5k more for the exact same car from a private seller.

    Private seller should be fine if the logbook is up to date. You can alway hire a mechanic for an hour to give it a once over as well if still nervous.

  • Perhaps contacting a car broker or car buying service will help.
    They might have access (knowledge) of a real bargain some 200 kilometers away (like a fully loaded premium hatchback on a farming/country area).
    Or something else equally good.

  • Is it still a good idea to go towards the end of a month when the sales people are likely hunting the last few sales to bump up commission? I know that was a thing ages back but I've not bought a used car in years.

  • This has always been my strategy

    1. Do your research, find out what price the cheapest equivalent make\model is. To be fair, it should be around the same kays and same overall condition.
    2. Decide if this is the price you want to settle on.
    3. Visit car place, do ensure you have checked car has not been written off, money owing etc.
    4. Agree on the price, don't budge, remember it's an invitation to sell, not an expectation to buy.
    5. Get the car personally inspected by a professional mechanic.
  • +1

    If you are financing the car you will likely get a better rate buying a new car, 30k will get you into a new car likely with lower payments than the second hand one.

    Consider MG or GWM or a lower spec Toyota/mazda

  • I wouldn't personally consider buying from a dealer. I always found better cars at lower prices elsewhere (private sales from Facebook Marketplace & Gumtree). Since you may have other circumstances that prevent you from considering those avenues, here's what I'd do,

    have a few options ready (visit at least 10 dealerships and shortlist at least 3 cars). NEVER let those 3 shortlisted dealerships know that they are shortlisted - they'll play mind games with you. Always maintain the upper hand (you've got the money, it's easier for you to spend the money elsewhere compared to them selling the car to someone else, believe me, they'd tell you otherwise but that's what they are good at LOL). DO NOT show your emotions even if you saw the best car in the world, just be calm and collected. Do your research beforehand so you don't have to listen to their BS (yeah, most of car dealers knowledge of the cars they're selling is no better than my five year old, but they certainly can talk to convince you otherwise.)

    • Thanks for the insights and no emotion, check :|

      • Please note, second hand car salesmen are some of worst human beings on planet (this may sound stereo typical, so apologies for any good ones out there - I've yet to come across one though lol).

  • +1

    Watch Jerry Sells on Youtube. You get interesting insight to second hand car dealership.

  • A lot of great tips but I often avoid Dealerships for the very reason that they are in the business to make money. In saying that, dealerships are not always a "rip off". You can find some great bargains because the person that traded it in was given a very low trade in price.

  • +1

    Recently watched this and this, someone recording themselves haggling at a dealership. US based and for a new car, but still relevant I think

  • Do your research. If you find a cheaper car at one dealer try and get the other to beat it. Corolla and CX30 are popular cars so price wont vary too much.

  • Given that you want to buy car that is aound 3-4 years old (still under warranty for most car brands) look for the car in following order:
    - private sellers (you'll save 10-25% compared to dealer prices) and you can test drive the car
    - fixed prices car auctions for end of lease vehicles (usually ex government vehicles) - you'll save 10-15% - but you cannot take care for a test drive (visit dealer for that)
    - and then only if you cannot find the suitable car at those two places consider dealers.

    BTW Mazda CX30 has virtually zero leg room on rear seats

  • +1

    Dealers have to turn their inventory over. Second hand cars are a depreciating asset as the silliness of Covid inflationary impact to second hand vehicle prices, yes still much higher than pre Covid.

    I ask for a full tank of petrol, 12 months rego if not registered. And 5% of sticker price. No finance. In person on first thing on a Saturday after driving the car.

  • Not what you asked for but have you considered buying a new car at that price? Decent Chinese brands like Haval and Chery available with lots of features and long warranties plus you can negotiate like crazy on their demo cars for example.

  • +1

    Make sure that they have your phone number early in the negotiations.

    Ask for the best changeover price.

    Say “No i need beter than that”

    Keep on saying No to subsequent offers.

    Eventually they will say that they cant do any better.

    Politely thank them for their time, say that you are sorry that an agreement could not be reached and walk.

    It is very likely that you will receive a follow up call with a better offer.

    TLDR: You haven’t got the best deal until the dealer says No and doesn’t make a counter offer.

  • +1

    I had to delete my previous comments as my mildly dyslexic, skim reading self read it as buying a new car so they were totally useless.. Apologies:)

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